CB desert sled - Page 23

kellymac530 · 02-08-2013, 09:45 AM

So with all of that large steel tubing everywhere, strength should not be an issue, but what are you up to...12-1300 lbs?

LC Garage · 02-08-2013, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kellymac530

So with all of that large steel tubing everywhere, strength should not be an issue, but what are you up to...12-1300 lbs?

Current calculations are indicating approximately 30 stones...

kellymac530 · 02-08-2013, 11:17 AM

How big are THOSE stones...Stonehenge? Half Dome?

I am teasing of course...I love the build.

DRjoe · 02-08-2013, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kellymac530

How big are THOSE stones...Stonehenge? Half Dome?

I am teasing of course...I love the build.

When are you starting your build thread kellymac?
I've got a feeling your gona cop a lot of teasing

kellymac530 · 02-08-2013, 06:38 PM

Hey Joe...I am expecting that...I dish, thus I MUST take.

My build is actually going good. My neck is all tacked and plates are cut to gusset the steering head. Got my laced rear wheel and tire, GS shock and bike is setting up on the wheels. It is coming back apart for final welding.
I plan on starting a thread soon. I suck at posting pics so I wanted to get a bumch loaded and do it all in one shot.

Sorry for the hijack...

PS: I actually know how much a "Stone" is and did not have to look it up. Your "Sled" will be much lighter than my beast.

oregoncoast · 02-08-2013, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRjoe

When are you starting your build thread kellymac?
I've got a feeling your gona cop a lot of teasing

Luke · 02-08-2013, 10:30 PM

A little progress. The side-to-side alignment is mostly fixed. The position is right now, but it moved the right shock mount forward a bit. That'll have to come off and re-attached. The wheel was a bit off, the axle isn't quite level with the swingarm pivot. I corrected that; over-corrected a little, actually, but it's closer.

RedRaptor22 · 02-09-2013, 08:04 PM

Can't remember if you have one or not but a handy trick that may have helped a bit with the swinger if you have a tig torch you can dry wash certain welds to pull it back straight if it gets a bit tweaked during initial welding.

And for square/rectangular tubing and bar stock only weld the outsides of the T's, if you weld the insides you'll end up bending the longer tube out of "straightness", plus those are more likely to cause cracks as well, just like saddle gussets on a frame, you see the welds run length ways with the tube, never across them, and when you do typically you see cracks form at the edge of the weld.

Just some tricks I've learned as back when I was a welder/fabricator making ridiculously priced custom handrails and various other fixtures and shop machinery.

Luke · 02-12-2013, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedRaptor22

Can't remember if you have one or not but a handy trick that may have helped a bit with the swinger if you have a tig torch you can dry wash certain welds to pull it back straight if it gets a bit tweaked during initial welding.

And for square/rectangular tubing and bar stock only weld the outsides of the T's, if you weld the insides you'll end up bending the longer tube out of "straightness", plus those are more likely to cause cracks as well, just like saddle gussets on a frame, you see the welds run length ways with the tube, never across them, and when you do typically you see cracks form at the edge of the weld.

Just some tricks I've learned as back when I was a welder/fabricator making ridiculously priced custom handrails and various other fixtures and shop machinery.

There aren't any convenient welds for doing the kind of dry wash I think you mean; I was considering running some stringer beads down the outside of the tube but I guessed it was as likely to just make a mess as to fix things.

I think the bracing tube that I used really does need to be welded all the way around to work properly, but a different type of brace would do the same job without needing to weld across the tube. Something to remember for the next one.

Luke · 02-12-2013, 10:12 PM

So last up was the swingarm. But there's more. Moving the right tube moved the right shock mount, so it had to be cut and re-welded into the right place.

Starting here. I never get tired of this view.

The shock mount has been cut off and tacked back on, and is being checked for location.

I've heard that "TIG in, Stick out" is a good way to weld thick things, so I tried it on this. The idea is that you do one pass with the TIG torch to get a good weld deep in the crack.

Then, stick weld the joint to add a lot of material to get a good thick weld. This is after three passes of 3/32" rod.

After checking the shock mount (still good) I finished up the axle slots. One of the slots was still off by 1/16", which made the wheel just visibly crooked. Now it's within a fraction of a degree of right, and good enough by eye.

Luke · 02-12-2013, 10:30 PM

Rick had a really good idea for where to put the coils. They won't fit in the stock location because the gas tank's tunnel is too narrow, and I was just going to stick them near the stock location but below the tank. Convenient for them, but in the way of other things. Instead, they're going to go on top of the battery box. There's enough room to move the air filter up a couple of inches to accommodate them.

Step one was to cut out a top for the box. The coils are attached to some pre-fabbed gussets which are welded to the top of the box.

The battery box lid is larger than it needs to be because it will also be the bottom of the shroud for the air filter.

Unfortunately adding a lip to the lid ruined it. The sheet warped and adding a rib to stabilize it made it worse. The original warping itself wasn't that bad, but pushing on the middle of the lid would make it pop from convex to concave like a jam jar lid. If the lid was popped the wrong way the coils wouldn't fit on the mounts. The rib was supposed to fix it, but just made it bad in a different way.

That was about five hours of work I gave up on.

The nice thing was that the next one went much faster.

Instead of making a sheet metal lid I'm going for plastic. A couple of brackets that each hold an individual coil each go on top of them.

LC Garage · 02-13-2013, 05:40 AM

Starting here. I never get tired of this view.

So your an ass man?

TwinDuro · 02-13-2013, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC Garage

So your an ass man?

It is a darn good view...

Mr. Fisherman · 02-13-2013, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwinDuro

It is a darn good view...

Wait until the truth comes out about the Lint chastity belt...

Oops, I've said too much.

No pics, didn't happen... move along...

Kootenai Rider · 02-13-2013, 07:12 PM

[Verbal handgrenade]Question..... Are you going to have a spare custom swing arm, you know, just in case? Or are you bringing a TIG?

[\verbal handgrenade]

02-08-2013, 09:45 AM	#331
kellymac530 motorcycle addict Joined: Feb 2010 Location: so. cal. Oddometer: 890	So with all of that large steel tubing everywhere, strength should not be an issue, but what are you up to...12-1300 lbs? __________________ it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission

02-08-2013, 11:17 AM	#333
kellymac530 motorcycle addict Joined: Feb 2010 Location: so. cal. Oddometer: 890	How big are THOSE stones...Stonehenge? Half Dome? I am teasing of course...I love the build. __________________ it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission

02-08-2013, 06:38 PM	#335
kellymac530 motorcycle addict Joined: Feb 2010 Location: so. cal. Oddometer: 890	Hey Joe...I am expecting that...I dish, thus I MUST take. My build is actually going good. My neck is all tacked and plates are cut to gusset the steering head. Got my laced rear wheel and tire, GS shock and bike is setting up on the wheels. It is coming back apart for final welding. I plan on starting a thread soon. I suck at posting pics so I wanted to get a bumch loaded and do it all in one shot. Sorry for the hijack... PS: I actually know how much a "Stone" is and did not have to look it up. Your "Sled" will be much lighter than my beast. __________________ it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission

02-13-2013, 05:40 AM	#342
LC Garage On Any Sunday Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Columbia County Oddometer: 581	Starting here. I never get tired of this view. So your an ass man? __________________ "Nothing can stop us but fear and common sense”

02-13-2013, 07:12 PM	#345
Kootenai Rider Adventure Reject Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Idaho Yo' Oddometer: 1,893	[Verbal handgrenade]Question..... Are you going to have a spare custom swing arm, you know, just in case? Or are you bringing a TIG? [\verbal handgrenade] __________________ 2012 KTM 250XC-W "Ginger" 2009 Honda CRF450X "Donna" 2008 KLR 650 "KLR" By the way do you know what the definition of a volunteer is? Someone who didn't fully understand the question. - Mr. Vimes

02-08-2013, 10:30 PM	#337
Luke ^OP GPoET&P Joined: Aug 2004 Location: Idiotville, OR Oddometer: 3,749	A little progress. The side-to-side alignment is mostly fixed. The position is right now, but it moved the right shock mount forward a bit. That'll have to come off and re-attached. The wheel was a bit off, the axle isn't quite level with the swingarm pivot. I corrected that; over-corrected a little, actually, but it's closer.

02-09-2013, 08:04 PM	#338
RedRaptor22 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2012 Location: Louisiana Oddometer: 133	Can't remember if you have one or not but a handy trick that may have helped a bit with the swinger if you have a tig torch you can dry wash certain welds to pull it back straight if it gets a bit tweaked during initial welding. And for square/rectangular tubing and bar stock only weld the outsides of the T's, if you weld the insides you'll end up bending the longer tube out of "straightness", plus those are more likely to cause cracks as well, just like saddle gussets on a frame, you see the welds run length ways with the tube, never across them, and when you do typically you see cracks form at the edge of the weld. Just some tricks I've learned as back when I was a welder/fabricator making ridiculously priced custom handrails and various other fixtures and shop machinery.

02-12-2013, 10:12 PM	#340
Luke ^OP GPoET&P Joined: Aug 2004 Location: Idiotville, OR Oddometer: 3,749	So last up was the swingarm. But there's more. Moving the right tube moved the right shock mount, so it had to be cut and re-welded into the right place. Starting here. I never get tired of this view. The shock mount has been cut off and tacked back on, and is being checked for location. I've heard that "TIG in, Stick out" is a good way to weld thick things, so I tried it on this. The idea is that you do one pass with the TIG torch to get a good weld deep in the crack. Then, stick weld the joint to add a lot of material to get a good thick weld. This is after three passes of 3/32" rod. After checking the shock mount (still good) I finished up the axle slots. One of the slots was still off by 1/16", which made the wheel just visibly crooked. Now it's within a fraction of a degree of right, and good enough by eye.

02-12-2013, 10:30 PM	#341
Luke ^OP GPoET&P Joined: Aug 2004 Location: Idiotville, OR Oddometer: 3,749	Rick had a really good idea for where to put the coils. They won't fit in the stock location because the gas tank's tunnel is too narrow, and I was just going to stick them near the stock location but below the tank. Convenient for them, but in the way of other things. Instead, they're going to go on top of the battery box. There's enough room to move the air filter up a couple of inches to accommodate them. Step one was to cut out a top for the box. The coils are attached to some pre-fabbed gussets which are welded to the top of the box. The battery box lid is larger than it needs to be because it will also be the bottom of the shroud for the air filter. Unfortunately adding a lip to the lid ruined it. The sheet warped and adding a rib to stabilize it made it worse. The original warping itself wasn't that bad, but pushing on the middle of the lid would make it pop from convex to concave like a jam jar lid. If the lid was popped the wrong way the coils wouldn't fit on the mounts. The rib was supposed to fix it, but just made it bad in a different way. That was about five hours of work I gave up on. The nice thing was that the next one went much faster. Instead of making a sheet metal lid I'm going for plastic. A couple of brackets that each hold an individual coil each go on top of them.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode