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Old 02-07-2013, 08:32 PM   #1996
Duhfactor
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Herriman, Ut.
Oddometer: 21
Okeee Dokee, thanks! Also, I loaded up my first modified map tonight, and the starter wouldn't activate......I went back to the original map, and it fired right up. As I looked things over, I found that on my modified map, I didn't have the "idle speed control" box checked. I went ahead and checked it, then re-downloaded the map. She fired right up, did the 15 minute deal, and I went and rode it around. I went from an early KTM akra map, to a modified Shootis map. I added 25% opening of the secondary butterflies from the bottom RPM, gradually increasing through the RPM and throttle position. I changed the FL switch to "0" at 2000 RPM and over. It's definitely smoother on the bottom end, but I think I lost some mid range power in favor of MPG. I've still got a lot to play with, as it's still herky jerky on the bottom, but it is substantially less than the akra map, and deceleration is less abrupt.

~D
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:38 PM   #1997
trickster
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Greece
Oddometer: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duhfactor View Post
Okeee Dokee, thanks! Also, I loaded up my first modified map tonight, and the starter wouldn't activate......I went back to the original map, and it fired right up. As I looked things over, I found that on my modified map, I didn't have the "idle speed control" box checked. I went ahead and checked it, then re-downloaded the map. She fired right up, did the 15 minute deal, and I went and rode it around. I went from an early KTM akra map, to a modified Shootis map. I added 25% opening of the secondary butterflies from the bottom RPM, gradually increasing through the RPM and throttle position. I changed the FL switch to "0" at 2000 RPM and over. It's definitely smoother on the bottom end, but I think I lost some mid range power in favor of MPG. I've still got a lot to play with, as it's still herky jerky on the bottom, but it is substantially less than the akra map, and deceleration is less abrupt.

~D
That's the attitude! If you come up with some good results please do share. I have found that shootis map is running a bit rich in high rpm comparing to the akrapovic map. In the following days i will give a try to decrease the fueling with threshold the akrapovic ones..

trickster screwed with this post 02-08-2013 at 03:37 AM
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:12 AM   #1998
Duhfactor
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Herriman, Ut.
Oddometer: 21
Thanks my man! I still want to try the akra and stock 07' map from the Tune Ecu site just to see how they run on my bike. I still agree with Tahoeacr in that on deceleration, theres too much fuel, and once you crack open the throttle a bit to add a little air, we get a big combustion leading to the jerking. The problem is, I'm not sure exactly how to modify the fuel to decrease it when I want. Part of me wants to try decreasing the fuel on the L-map under low map (high vacuum), low RPM and low throttle position. I do love how easy and quick it is to make changes with Tune Ecu. It's freaking snowing today, and my wife just had surgery yesterday, so no playing today
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:58 AM   #1999
Reese
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central Coast, CA
Oddometer: 30
Put the 2011/12 map on my 2010 today

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese View Post
This sounds exactly like what I'm seeing with about 80 miles on the bike. I'll give it a little bit of time to sort itself out. I hadn't considered the warranty being an issue but it's probably wise to hold off on invalidating anything until I'm sure there are no major problems.

Thanks all for the advice. Orange Crush has been an amazing resource for this new owner.
Well so much for that. I got impatient and loaded the 2011/12 map (KM601US1102001Map.hex) on my 2010. Looks like the 2009 map was on there from the factory.

I used the CJ Designs Tune Ecu Cables For KTM Engines with 32-bit Windows 8. The cable was recognized with the correct driver version. No driver download needed.

Bike was on center stand and ambient temperature was just above 0C.

Here's the order that I did things in for my own reference later on...

01. Set COM3 speed to 921600 and flow control to Xon/Xoff (all other settings left at default)
02. Connected battery tender jr. and waited for solid green light
03. Removed 15AMP headlight fuse
04. Removed seat
05. Removed two screws from where the tool kit sits and removed plastic cover
06. Pulled out wiring bundle and removed from the cap from the connector that looked like it would fit the cable
07. Connected cable to bike and laptop
08. Turned ignition on
09. Started TuneECU and selected ECU > Connect and verified green light in lower-right of TuneECU
10. Selected ECU > Read Map and waited about 3 minutes for map to load from bike
11. Selected File > Save Map File and saved as KM601US0902001Map.hex
12. Selected Diagnostics button and took a screenshot - TPS @ 3% and 0.79V
13. Selected ECU > Download
14. Selected KM601US1102001Map.hex that I had previously downloaded from TuneECU site
15. Accepted warning about destroying the engine and waited about 10 seconds for ECU to receive new map
16. Received confirmation that download was completed
17. Selected ECU > Disconnect
18. Closed TuneECU and disconnected USB cable from laptop
19. Started engine
20. Opened http://timer.onlineclock.net and selected 15 minutes (did this within about 5 seconds of starting engine)
21. Let idle while keeping an eye on temperature (fan cycled on/off starting at about 10 minutes in)
22. Turned ignition off after 15 minutes
23. Connected USB cable to laptop
24. Turned ignition on
25. Started TuneECU and selected ECU > Connect and verified green light in lower-right of TuneECU
26. Selected Diagnostics button and took a screenshot - TPS @ 0% and 0.67V
27. Turned off ignition, disconnected cable from bike, and re-assembled

I haven't had a chance to take the bike for a ride yet and probably won't until tomorrow. I thought I had read that the TPS voltage should be 0.66 when cold so I was concerned about the 0.79 reading. Then I saw 0.67 when hot and thought maybe I had hot/cold reversed in my head. I hadn't planned on making any TPS adjustments today.

Here are the before and after screenshots:



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Old 02-09-2013, 11:06 AM   #2000
Korruptio
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 23
So does anyone has this shootis map available? I PM'd him some couple days ago but I havent got reply yet.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:03 PM   #2001
Duhfactor
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Herriman, Ut.
Oddometer: 21
I have one, but I've modified it. I am running the Shootis map, but I've opened the secondary butterflies to 25% at idle, gradually increasing them as RPM's and throttle opening increases. I've also changed the FL switch to "0" from 2000 RPM on up as suggested. If you want to try it, PM me and I'll send it to you.

Thanks,

~D
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:52 AM   #2002
Mr_Snips
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Yucca Valley, CA
Oddometer: 352
What would be a good tune for just a straight through wings exhaust up in yucca valley ca?
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:34 PM   #2003
Zuber
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Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Main Street, Shedd, Oregon
Oddometer: 1,694
Which bike?
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:34 PM   #2004
Mr_Snips
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Yucca Valley, CA
Oddometer: 352
Quote:
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Which bike?
2011 990 adventure r
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:49 PM   #2005
pilacs
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Orlando,FL
Oddometer: 70
Wicked ECU help

Is there anyone around the Orlando,FL area can install a map for me on my 07ADV ?
I do have the cable,but no idea how to work with it.
Ken Wheeler did a custom map on it now she runs perfect,but my light come on at 100 miles.
I know it can be better than that. 26,000 miles on the bike 2to1 Akra pipe sas removed.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:43 PM   #2006
Imachimper
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Camano Island, Washington
Oddometer: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese View Post
Well so much for that. I got impatient and loaded the 2011/12 map (KM601US1102001Map.hex) on my 2010. Looks like the 2009 map was on there from the factory.

I used the CJ Designs Tune Ecu Cables For KTM Engines with 32-bit Windows 8. The cable was recognized with the correct driver version. No driver download needed.

Bike was on center stand and ambient temperature was just above 0C.

Here's the order that I did things in for my own reference later on...

01. Set COM3 speed to 921600 and flow control to Xon/Xoff (all other settings left at default)
02. Connected battery tender jr. and waited for solid green light
03. Removed 15AMP headlight fuse
04. Removed seat
05. Removed two screws from where the tool kit sits and removed plastic cover
06. Pulled out wiring bundle and removed from the cap from the connector that looked like it would fit the cable
07. Connected cable to bike and laptop
08. Turned ignition on
09. Started TuneECU and selected ECU > Connect and verified green light in lower-right of TuneECU
10. Selected ECU > Read Map and waited about 3 minutes for map to load from bike
11. Selected File > Save Map File and saved as KM601US0902001Map.hex
12. Selected Diagnostics button and took a screenshot - TPS @ 3% and 0.79V
13. Selected ECU > Download
14. Selected KM601US1102001Map.hex that I had previously downloaded from TuneECU site
15. Accepted warning about destroying the engine and waited about 10 seconds for ECU to receive new map
16. Received confirmation that download was completed
17. Selected ECU > Disconnect
18. Closed TuneECU and disconnected USB cable from laptop
19. Started engine
20. Opened http://timer.onlineclock.net and selected 15 minutes (did this within about 5 seconds of starting engine)
21. Let idle while keeping an eye on temperature (fan cycled on/off starting at about 10 minutes in)
22. Turned ignition off after 15 minutes
23. Connected USB cable to laptop
24. Turned ignition on
25. Started TuneECU and selected ECU > Connect and verified green light in lower-right of TuneECU
26. Selected Diagnostics button and took a screenshot - TPS @ 0% and 0.67V
27. Turned off ignition, disconnected cable from bike, and re-assembled

]
I completed the exact same process today to my 2010 Adv ABS with the exception of the new map. I put the KM601US1102002Map.hex OEM 2011-2012 R map in.

At first, after the 15 min idle the ABS light stayed on, and I thought "crap the new map turned off my ABS".

So I hopped on and headed out the driveway and gave it some strong back brake. After a nice 3 foot skid the ABS light went out and then returned back to normal (ABS working).

I noticed a stronger pull in first and second, but it has been a few weeks since I have been out, so who knows. It can still lift the front end up in the air with my fat ass on it.

More testing soon.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:28 PM   #2007
Reese
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central Coast, CA
Oddometer: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imachimper View Post
I completed the exact same process today to my 2010 Adv ABS with the exception of the new map. I put the KM601US1102002Map.hex OEM 2011-2012 R map in.

At first, after the 15 min idle the ABS light stayed on, and I thought "crap the new map turned off my ABS".

So I hopped on and headed out the driveway and gave it some strong back brake. After a nice 3 foot skid the ABS light went out and then returned back to normal (ABS working).

I noticed a stronger pull in first and second, but it has been a few weeks since I have been out, so who knows. It can still lift the front end up in the air with my fat ass on it.

More testing soon.
It's a good feeling when you don't screw it up.

That's the way my ABS light has always worked - and when I say always I mean the last two weeks so take that for what it's worth. The light is solid red for the first 20 feet or so of every ride.

Can somebody confirm that my TPS voltage is correct? 0.79V while cold and 0.67V when warm. I'm still not sure that it shouldn't be in the 0.66V neighborhood when cold.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:36 PM   #2008
gefr
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: East Med, Greece
Oddometer: 3,704
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese View Post
Can somebody confirm that my TPS voltage is correct? 0.79V while cold and 0.67V when warm. I'm still not sure that it shouldn't be in the 0.66V neighborhood when cold.
I believe 0.5 - 0.6V when warm is the correct. Cheers.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:53 AM   #2009
Wilmo
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Perth
Oddometer: 1,258
Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
I believe 0.5 - 0.6V when warm is the correct. Cheers.
The two bikes I've worked on (mine with 4500km) and another with 30000km had .66 and .67 volts when warm respectively, both run perfectly, not sure I'd bother adjusting it as doesn't seem that critical. I think .65 is the specs upper limit for the fuel injected 990 anyway, so it's pretty close!
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:53 AM   #2010
Gustavo.Ramos
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Accross the pond
Oddometer: 696
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese View Post
Can somebody confirm that my TPS voltage is correct? 0.79V while cold and 0.67V when warm. I'm still not sure that it shouldn't be in the 0.66V neighborhood when cold.
Mine does that too, couldn't get it closer to 0,5 - 0,6 as per manual and making it run good.

runs very nice now, a bit crisp, albeit the different TPS values
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