Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[MeefZah]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

Someone recommended to me and I am going to try this year....Kenda 270's. They are cheap, so worth a try.

Kind of squirmy in the corners.

[30Bones]

Originally Posted by MeefZah

Kind of squirmy in the corners.

Makes things interesting They were a squiring tire on my KLR. I adapted, but preferred the Duro

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

Someone recommended to me and I am going to try this year....Kenda 270's. They are cheap, so worth a try.

Originally Posted by MeefZah

Kind of squirmy in the corners.

Instead of the Kenda 270's look at the Shinko 244's. Almost exact copies in the middle tread, but much more substantial side lugs which makes them much more sure footed on the pavement. The middle lugs on the 244's are actually "bigger" too which again helps with stability on the road. They are also cheaper than the 270's usually. Sometimes the Shinko 244's are labeled as "Golden Boy" tires too.

I've ran the Kenda 270's before and I used to like them, but they are either a love or hate relationship. The biggest problem with them is that their side knobs are soft and flex when you get over on them on pavement, so this can make the tires seem squimry. It's definitely worse on larger bikes.

Since I have found the 244', I won't run the Kenda's again. They are almost direct copies of the Kenda 270's and are cheaper to buy, but they redesigned the side knobs to be more substantial and they don't flex like the 270's do. A win/win!! Their beefier knobs gives them a more sure footed feel when you get over on the side knobs in the twisties.

Here's a direct comparison of both tires. That is a Shinko 244 on the left and Kenda 270 on the right. You can see the larger side knobs which I cannot bend with my finger where I can on the Kenda's. You can also see the knobs just in a bit from the sides are also a bit larger on the Shinko's and go all the way to the edge every 2 knobs which gives you more stability there too.




A well worn Kenda 270 on the right and a new Shinko 244 replacement on the left


A close up of the side knobs. See those little bitty side knobs. That is what makes the kenda 270's so squirmy. They give & flex so easily.

[Scott_PDX]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

Someone recommended to me and I am going to try this year....Kenda 270's. They are cheap, so worth a try.

I got the 270's I think they are fine, but then I don't rail corners on the WR and hear they can be squirmy (i've not noticed it). I actually liked the Sinko's 244 better which have a similar pattern and are even cheaper.

[Mr. Fisherman]

Originally Posted by Scott_PDX

I got the 270's I think they are fine, but then I don't rail corners on the WR and hear they can be squirmy (i've not noticed it). I actually liked the Sinko's 244 better which have a similar pattern and are even cheaper.

Loving the 244s on my 17's... will do that again

[HardWorkingDog]

Woo-hoo. I got back yesterday from 5 weeks in Baja, plus a week of taking the long way to get there from Nor Cal via Death Valley. The WR was awesome.

Unfortunately, I got too complacent and let the chain slack and lubrication get away from me. Conditions were very tough--salt spray, sand, mud that was more like cement (both wet and dry). The chain wore, got corroded, and I didn't notice it until it was too late and have suffered the painful-to-look-at swingarm damage. Chain slider gave way, chain slack was excessive, some of the links started to kink, and now I've got approx. 2-3 mm deep grooves worn in the bottom leading edge of my swingarm pivot.



I'd appreciate hearing from fellow WR owners on how they've recovered from this. Options I see are:

1. Replace the swingarm
2. Get it welded.
3. Fill with quicksteel.
4. Ignore it, and keep riding.

All of the options include replacing the chain slider and chain...

[Scott_PDX]

Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog

Woo-hoo. I got back yesterday from 5 weeks in Baja, plus a week of taking the long way to get there from Nor Cal via Death Valley. The WR was awesome.

Unfortunately, I got too complacent and let the chain slack and lubrication get away from me. Conditions were very tough--salt spray, sand, mud that was more like cement (both wet and dry). The chain wore, got corroded, and I didn't notice it until it was too late and have suffered the painful-to-look-at swingarm damage. Chain slider gave way, chain slack was excessive, some of the links started to kink, and now I've got approx. 2-3 mm deep grooves worn in the bottom leading edge of my swingarm pivot.



I'd appreciate hearing from fellow WR owners on how they've recovered from this. Options I see are:

1. Replace the swingarm
2. Get it welded.
3. Fill with quicksteel.
4. Ignore it, and keep riding.

All of the options include replacing the chain slider and chain...

Cry, Replace Slider, Ride.

Sucks, but you aren't the first this happened to.

Would love to see if anybody else's fixes for this are though. It's my nightmare.

Have heard of some folks replacing the lower slider with a piece of "Delrin" (look it up) to keep this from happening again in the future. Kinda too late for you though.

On the plus side, looks like that weld you cut through had excellent penetration!

[jon_l]

Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog

The chain wore, got corroded, and I didn't notice it until it was too late and have suffered the painful-to-look-at swingarm damage. Chain slider gave way, chain slack was excessive, some of the links started to kink, and now I've got approx. 2-3 mm deep grooves worn in the bottom leading edge of my swingarm pivot.

I'd appreciate hearing from fellow WR owners on how they've recovered from this. Options I see are:

1. Replace the swingarm
2. Get it welded.
3. Fill with quicksteel.
4. Ignore it, and keep riding.

All of the options include replacing the chain slider and chain...

haven't done it myself, but I have read everything i could find about this before buying a WRR.

Personally, I'd go with #3, and as you said, install new sprockets, chain, and seal-guard.

On Page 3 is a write-up by a guy who used JB Weld or similar to fill in the grooves: http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t4...eaten-by-chain

[UtahFox]

Here it is, my new WRR. Picked it up 120 miles from here, where I'm staying with my parents in Palm Springs. Heading back up to SLC in a week or so, via Death Valley and central Nevada and Utah. More pics later. Fun ride!

[AZ TOM]

Originally Posted by UtahFox

Here it is, my new WRR. Picked it up 120 miles from here, where I'm staying with my parents in Palm Springs. Heading back up to SLC in a week or so, via Death Valley and central Nevada and Utah. More pics later. Fun ride!

Congrats, looks brand new!!

[Rapid Dog]

Originally Posted by UtahFox

Here it is, my new WRR. Picked it up 120 miles from here, where I'm staying with my parents in Palm Springs. Heading back up to SLC in a week or so, via Death Valley and central Nevada and Utah. More pics later. Fun ride!

You shoot your eye out!

[avgas]

I think I'm going to dive into the head bearing to make sure it has enough grease/regrease it. I think the only special tool I need is a steering stem spanner, is that correct? Anyone know what size? Will this one work? http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Spanner-Wrench

Since I'm talking about greasing bearings, are there any other ones that I really should check?

[duanew1]

Originally Posted by Scott_PDX

Have heard of some folks replacing the lower slider with a piece of "Delrin" (look it up) to keep this from happening again in the future. Kinda too late for you though.

I got mad at mine. I kept the old worn out chain and tried to repair the chain slider with various materials. I tried cutting board but it wore quickly. I tried lexan but the JB weld did not stick well enough and it fell off. I was fed up so I bent a piece of steel and attached it to the slider with screws. The chain actually ate into it pretty well and I have replaced the steel piece once. Maybe when I get a job I can afford to replace the sprockets and chain. The chain is not visibly kinked but it still pretty bad and needs replacing.

[skierd]

Originally Posted by avgas

I think I'm going to dive into the head bearing to make sure it has enough grease/regrease it. I think the only special tool I need is a steering stem spanner, is that correct? Anyone know what size? Will this one work? http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Spanner-Wrench

Since I'm talking about greasing bearings, are there any other ones that I really should check?

Swingarm pivot. I've been trying to get mine loose for a week, but its still stuck solid.

[UtahFox]

Originally Posted by AZ TOM

Congrats, looks brand new!!

Thanks Tom. Yeah it does. There are some scratches, but all of them are in places that I'm going to replace or places I simply don't care.

It's really tall, and I'm going to have to lower it some. First up is the seat. Turns out I'm really close to Seat Concepts here, so have an appointment to get the seat redone on Wednesday. I'm hoping to get a pic or two at their shop. I'll wait until I get home to do the factory lower, which I think will be enough.

The bike had 372 miles on it when I picked it up, but will have triple that by the time I get back home. I have a Rotopax, tank bag, and a USB power port arriving this week for the trip back. Lots more to do, but I am looking forward to the ride home.

Is there any way to display a tach, or do I need to install an add on computer for that?