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Old 02-11-2013, 04:28 PM   #16
Jeathrow Bowdean
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Ha Ha. I did the same thing a few days ago being that I travel to diffrent threads. I'm sure theat GB slipped up on his post. I bet he was referring to something on another thread, and posted it here by mistake.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
WTF are you talking about? I don't remember anyone posting up political rants in this thread, or did I miss something?
Maybe the offending posts were deleted before we got here? Dunno.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:31 PM   #18
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is it soup yet ? where's the wheelie-in-the-snow pic at 790 oclock ?

cmon man !
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:24 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Maybe the offending posts were deleted before we got here? Dunno.
yes they were deleted.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by ohgood View Post
is it soup yet ? where's the wheelie-in-the-snow pic at 790 oclock ?

cmon man !
Getting close.. I'm trying to do it this Friday. I replaced the clutch today with the Barnett Clutch kit from Procycle.

Starting by draining all the oil



Then I started to remove the 2 oil lines attached to the side case. I also had to remove my center stand and pull the brake pedal down to get it out of the way of the case.I used my handy impact driver to remove all the bolts. I always forget I have this tool, and its great when you have a bunch of bolts that have to come out.



Once the case was off, I finally had a good look at my NSU. I did not want to remove the clutch basket, so I just used a few different screwdrivers to tighten the upper screw. the bottom one wasn't loose, but wasn't tight.. I removed the screw and used some high temp red locktite to secure it. (screw is removed in the below picture)



I honestly wasn't sure what to expect when I opened the case. The previous owner had no idea what a NSU was when I asked, so that screw could have been gone years ago.

Another picture of inside the case:



NSU screw:







Alright... Then I got to the clutch. I removed the old friction and steel plates, and made note of the order. I installed the new Barnett clutch parts.

No Clutch plates;





The Barnett clutch springs are a little bit longer.



Once everything was installed I started to clean the old gasket off the side case... what a pain in the ass that was. I went to auto zone for gasket remover (not sure if its a real product or not) but the guy directed me to carb cleaner and said that it will work... it didn't. I used a box cutter to cut a lot of the old gasket off. When I installed the new gasket, I used copper gasket spray and mounted it when it got tacky. After filling up the oil, cleaning up everything, installing all the parts I took off, I started the bike. Oil came pouring out of the top near the oil filter and all along the bottom.. I had to take everything apart again and clean the gasket surface again. I will admit that I didn't do a good job the first time around.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYBODY USES THIS METHOD, BE VERY CAREFUL SHOULD YOU DECIDE DO THIS:

To remove the old gasket, I used a 220 grit sandpaper and my rotating sander. I did not apply any pressure, and just used the weight of the sander to cut up the old gasket. when the surface was clean, i sprayed some more copper spray and tried again (this time not putting the bike together first, in case I had another issue). No problems at all. I am dreading removing the paper base gasket off my cylinder, but its gonna have to be done right.

After putting everything back together I ran the bike for 20 minutes at idle, and let the oil heat up to 240*F. no leaks at all

I guess the new clutch has to wear in a little, but I had to adjust my cable adjustment near the lever to almost full out for the wheel to stop spinning. I'll be keeping an eye on this. I only road the bike down my driveway and back, since the road currently look like (outside my driveway):



This is not slush, that is solid ice...



I felt like I was 4-wheeling in my little Jetta!
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:12 PM   #21
VooDooDaddy
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Permatex makes a good gasket remover. You should be able to get it at just about any decent auto parts store. Have a look at the link below, especially post # 44.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...distech&page=3
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:09 PM   #22
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Permatex gasket remover works excellent, but be careful of overspray because it will also remove your case clearcoat.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:41 PM   #23
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:57 PM   #24
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So the DR made it through the surgery with sucess! I haven't taken it on the road yet, I'll do that tomorrow. It took a while to start but I think that was due to the amount of oil I used during the installation. I took some videos and a ton of pictures during the installations process. I will do a write up soon. I'm going to edit the videos together and then put it on YouTube.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:13 PM   #25
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Congrats!!! We're all VERY eagerly awaiting the pix and write-up.

Rob
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:36 PM   #26
Jeathrow Bowdean
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Holly sheep s@#t Planemanx 15 I live in the Grate White North of Canada on the Western side of the country. I feel bad that you folks are getting the hammer, but I'm glad it's not our turn this year.

From Jeathrow Bowdean
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:09 PM   #27
Fishenough
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Originally Posted by Jeathrow Bowdean View Post
Holly sheep s@#t Planemanx 15 I live in the Grate White North of Canada on the Western side of the country. I feel bad that you folks are getting the hammer, but I'm glad it's not our turn this year.

From Jeathrow Bowdean
Do you mean you live in the Great Wet North, near the lower rainland aka the wet coast, or the north of the north?

Subscribed!!
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:22 PM   #28
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Wink Part 1

I guess I'll start to do this write up now, please forgive me if I forget something, as there is a lot of information I would like to jot down and it's getting late.

I started the project around 10am, and finished around 4:30pm, working straight through, no breaks. Before I begin, the first thing I would say is if you’re planning on doing this, it would be wise to get another person to help you out. I found myself in a few binds where another person’s hands or brains would be useful. After taking off the usual parts, I followed the service manual for engine removal and took off the parts it stated.



As you can see laid out, I have the tank, air box, header, oil cooler, TONS of nuts and bolts, etc. I laid the carb on the frame. The engine stayed in the bike, a decision that I regretted. I should have taking It out for 2 reasons. 1) To clean it; and 2) For an easier install without the frame in my way. I had a hard time with a few bolts, namely the header bolts. I couldn’t get one of them off, and to make it worse it was the inside one. The inside hex head stripped to a circle. It was at this point I was getting scared that I couldn’t do this and it was a waste. After thinking and trying various tools, I ended up heating it with a torch, then WD-40, over and over. Then I used a vise grip and broke it free, turning it 1\8 of a turn each time. On the reinstallation I cut the bolt to use a large flat screwdriver and used that to install it.





Before digging into the engine:



I followed the manual to the letter as to what to order to take the cylinder head cover bolts off. I used a piece of cardboard to lay out the bolts and keep them organized for the installation:



Nothing was too tight, that scared me, but when doing the reinstallation, again, I followed the manual’s tq specs. The tightest bolts in the whole setup were the head bolts. These are the long ones that go from the very top of the engine to the bottom. 2 of them are seen if you look next to your spark plugs. I’ve been having a small oil leak, either from my spark plug washer, or my header bolt. Either way everything was cleaned up to make sure it wouldn’t come back. Once all the bolts were off, I was able to get to the old piston:



Cylinder head (normal to have this much oil??):



Underside:



I was able to pull the cam off, and SLOWLY remove the timing chain, making sure I did not drop it into the bottom end. The cam came out with ease, and I removed the gear from it. Procycle supplies the new lock for the bolts for the cam, this is installed later. The manual also does a really good job of explaining how to re-time the engine once you open everything up.



With the cam chain tensioner rods:



Once I was got the head off, all that was left was the 2 nuts that hold the jug onto the rest of the motor. I removed those, and was able to get to this:



The old piston came off rather easy, and I was left with:



Note: The rag in the bottom end saved me from having to dig a metal dowel and a circip from the gears… Be sure to cover it.

Now for the size comparison:







More to come…
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:48 PM   #29
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Thumb

Welterweight vs a heavyweight. Cool

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Old 02-16-2013, 05:03 AM   #30
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