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Old 02-10-2013, 05:22 PM   #3496
atk_nut
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The coolant level hasn't changed in 20 hours. This started just all of a sudden.

There is no visible evidence of oil in the coolant either.

I let her cool down and the foam disappeared. The level was below the fins, so I topped it up a bit.

I flashed her up with the cap off, when reving, the coolant just went up and down gently with the rpm.

I put the cap back on, then warmed it up practicing wheelies up and down the driveway for 15-20 min or so. No coolant coming out. I parked it, let it cool enough to take the cap off.

This time, when reving, it started out smooth, but after a minute or so, bubbles started showing up...more and more agressive as time went on.

I'm starting to suspect head gasket. But I'm trying to eliminate the simple stuff.

OH, and this time, I tightened the cap by bending the tabs a bit.
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:50 PM   #3497
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When you said "milky foam" I thought that meant something else besides coolant was in there (ie oil).

If that's not the case then I think (some small amount of) the cylinder pressure is escaping (through a break in the head gasket) into a coolant passage - over pressurizing/introducing gas (not gasoline) into the cooling system.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:12 PM   #3498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRG View Post
When you said "milky foam" I thought that meant something else besides coolant was in there (ie oil).

If that's not the case then I think (some small amount of) the cylinder pressure is escaping (through a break in the head gasket) into a coolant passage - over pressurizing/introducing gas (not gasoline) into the cooling system.
Yep, sorry for not being clear. By milky foam, I just meant really fine bubbles like it's been whipped by a cappucino machine.

I'm starting to think head gasket also.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:18 PM   #3499
genghis9021
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OEM subframe conversion to aux fuel tank

Link to PDF of conversion provided by Åmme.

The subframe does look different than mine and that extends beyond the color (black vs grey).

Thanks to Blakduk for also sending me a copy to post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Åmme View Post
Conversion original subframe to fueltank, it's a old description in Garrys Husaberg rally bike thread.

I did not follow that description I will try to make a description with photos in PDF format tonight (can't upload photos here for the moment) and if you PM me your e-mail I will send it to all of you.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:02 PM   #3500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genghis9021 View Post
Link to PDF of conversion provided by Åmme.

The subframe does look different than mine and that extends beyond the color (black vs grey).

Thanks to Blakduk for also sending me a copy to post.
Thank you so much for putting that up! Also, thanks Amme for making the howto.

It doesn't look too bad, provided the subframe doesn't leak too bad on its own.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:43 PM   #3501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinevalley View Post
Recluse - they have you attach a small tube for the clutch delete.
Oh, so you "deleted" the clutch completely?

I love my Rekluse too - but I love the fact that I can "turn it off" too with the adjustable slave cylinder.

In reality, the adjustable slave is for setting the clutch free-play correctly (yes, apparently, even hydraulic clutches have free play) - and it allows trail-side adjustment, without the need to open up the clutch on the side of the trail...
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:05 PM   #3502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atk_nut View Post
Yep, sorry for not being clear. By milky foam, I just meant really fine bubbles like it's been whipped by a cappucino machine.

I'm starting to think head gasket also.
It's sounding like a head gasket issue to me too... BUT - try this first (if you haven't already). Drain the coolant as completely as possible (checking for any obvious contamination) and then refill with *JUST* distilled water. Run the bike until warm/hot then drain again. Check for any visible contamination again. With just distilled water, anything other than water should be more visible.

It might help answer the question...
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:24 AM   #3503
Seth S
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You can pump compressed air into the cylinder at TDC and see if the coolant bubbles. This will tell you 2 possible things: 1) your head gasket is bad and you are leaking compression into a coolant passage forcing coolant out of the motor...or 2)...ignore 2 because you would have oil in your coolant if it were the case and I just thought it through
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:01 AM   #3504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogeyMan View Post
Oh, so you "deleted" the clutch completely?.
I have converted to a LHRB (Left Hand Rear Brake)...so no clutch for me. However I have heard there are now ways to do this and still maintain both clutch and LHRB.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:51 PM   #3505
hillwalker
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Fan Switch

I'm planning to install the radiator fan on Friday but can't find the NAPA temperature switch mentioned in this thread in stock anywhere. Are there any worthy alternatives? Has anyone used a different temperature switch?

Many, many thanks!
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:26 PM   #3506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillwalker View Post
I'm planning to install the radiator fan on Friday but can't find the NAPA temperature switch mentioned in this thread in stock anywhere. Are there any worthy alternatives? Has anyone used a different temperature switch?

Many, many thanks!
Just install it as is. When you do need a lower temp switch, buy it and install. I replaced my switch, in place, and lost no more than 1/2oz of coolant. It took 2 minutes.

I bought one of these 91F 2 pin switches

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...an_switch.html
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:42 PM   #3507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillwalker View Post
I'm planning to install the radiator fan on Friday but can't find the NAPA temperature switch mentioned in this thread in stock anywhere. Are there any worthy alternatives? Has anyone used a different temperature switch?

Many, many thanks!
I bought this one (ATM 1435033) from NAPA: http://www.napaonline.com/ShoppingCa...ping-cart.aspx

Somehow (can't remember) I found it from a BMW... A link for the cross search of the above part number is here: http://www.dmauto.com/web/dmauto/Cat...s/ATM/1435033/

BMW, 1989 325i, 2.5l

Found a bunch at RockAuto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,4312

Hope this helps...pinevalley
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:18 PM   #3508
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Thanks guys!
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:38 AM   #3509
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I'm currently going over my bike in preparation for the Tuareg Rally, doing some maintenance and a few upgrades. Almost ready to race...




One of the things I wanted to fix are two oil leaks that I have had for a while, one at the valve cover and the other at the cylinder base:






I was a bit frustrated that these came up on a low mile bike, but maybe that was unfounded... Now that I have the tank off I noticed a puddle of engine oil in my airbox, the underside of my seat was covered with a film, and there was some on the frame on the back side of the airbox. So I think it's engine oil that ran down the fuel line, and then dripped onto the cylinder. And on the front, it looks like the crankcase vent hose was not seated all the way, and oil had been seeping from there and not the valve cover gasket:




Has anybody else had this problem? I have been running the oil level at the higher end of the recommended range, maybe this coupled with some hard riding and sustained high speed runs while in supermoto trim led to foaming/misting and getting all this oil through the vent hose?


I'm going to try to solve this by fixing the lower part of the breather hose to the valve cover with a clamp, and by putting a Thumper Racing case vent somewhere inline, have had good luck with them on my EXCs that had the same misting problem, plus gaskets live longer and you make more power.

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Old 02-12-2013, 05:57 AM   #3510
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Lukas.....
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