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Old 02-10-2013, 11:15 PM   #16
Bluethumb OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBall View Post
Follow what ME109 did in that thread. That is the best fix you can do. It is cheaper that buying a new stand and it works perfectly.

Thanks for the link. After examining the centerstand, it looks like the previous owner had someone weld up the ends and whoever did it butchered it. I guess it can be re-welded. I still don't get why it's so hard to get up on the stand. The bushings and pivot hole are perfect. I can see now why the stand goes too far forward, and why it's so hard to get off the stand - but not why it's do hard to lift.

Can a different year stand be fitted. Or am I stuck with this one?

Thanks
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:09 AM   #17
ME 109
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Basic physics says lifting 500 lbs (?) of bike 2'' into the air is going to require some effort.
There is a lack of appropriate leverage on an 81 c/stand, combined with lifting the bike that high.
After all has been said regarding technique etc, etc, shortening the c/stand will make a big difference in lessening the effort required.
Shortening the c/stand will also reduce the ability of the stand to be used in softer terrains..........as well as making it difficult to remove your wheels.

Does your stand have the little square plate on the end where your foot is meant to be placed when deploying the stand?
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:25 AM   #18
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No, my stand does not have the square pad at the end of the foot. It looks just like the typical stand with curved feet with the rubber bumpers, and a cross support where the two springs mount. The only easily identifiable difference between this stand and others on my past airheads is how the springs attach. On this one they attach to a 21/2 ( or there abouts ) steel plate and that plate is hooked to the frame. That's also how it shows in the parts fiche. On all other stands I've seen, the springs hook directly to the frame. The only other difference is the tang coming off the side is longer.

On the G/S's and GS that I owned, I'd section one inch out of the centerstand, shortening it. This made it to where it took almost no effort to rock the bike up on the stand. It still kept the front wheel off the ground by 1/2 inch, allowing the tires to be removed if necessary. I did that for the reason mentioned, getting a 500 lb bike two inches into the air. On GS's it seemed even more.

I've never had a basic airhead that was so difficult.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:19 AM   #19
DaveBall
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ME109,
You don't "lift" the bike up onto the stand. If you do, you will always have difficulties and possibly ruin your back.

You roll the bike backwards onto the stand.
1. Press stand down to ground.
2. Move left foot to press down on the stand's foot - NOT the tang.
3. With left hand on handlebars and right hand on the grab handle - with a slight upwards tug you roll the bike backwards and up onto the stand.

Some people actually will start the process about a foot ahead of where they want the bike to sit, just so they can get a slight rolling start.

It seems simple, and most people have problems putting the concept into practice. But once you get it to work properly for you, it really isn't all that hard, unless the stand is knackered.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:48 AM   #20
chasbmw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBall View Post
ME109,
You don't "lift" the bike up onto the stand. If you do, you will always have difficulties and possibly ruin your back.

You roll the bike backwards onto the stand.
1. Press stand down to ground.
2. Move left foot to press down on the stand's foot - NOT the tang.
3. With left hand on handlebars and right hand on the grab handle - with a slight upwards tug you roll the bike backwards and up onto the stand.

Some people actually will start the process about a foot ahead of where they want the bike to sit, just so they can get a slight rolling start.

It seems simple, and most people have problems putting the concept into practice. But once you get it to work properly for you, it really isn't all that hard, unless the stand is knackered.

True ......but not all BMWs are equal........my 90/6 is really easy to get onto the stand, but my 82 even after reworking the stand and the frame remains difficult
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:52 AM   #21
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Thanks but I'm pretty well versed in airheads, have 300,000 miles and have owned quite a few. As I mentioned, modified G/S stands to we're when you put you foot on the stand and rolled it back, it rolled right up onto the stand.

It's this 82 R100. There's no rocking back or rolling back -and up onto the stand. There's something unnatural about it.

Un-airhead like.

Seems like there ought to be plenty of folks out there that own this year bike, R100, RT, RS.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:53 AM   #22
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Thanks Charles, so it's not me?

Other year stands fit?

I'm really liking this bike, but hate every time I go putting it on the stand
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #23
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I don't know about other year stands. Making sure that it locates properly on the stops in the frame is also important because it prevents the stand going over center. This in my case needed some welding to build up the stops. There is a Swiss guy who has a good write up, someone will remember where? Part of the problem is that the top of the stand splays outwards with wear.



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chasbmw screwed with this post 02-12-2013 at 08:44 AM
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:41 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBall View Post
ME109,
You don't "lift" the bike up onto the stand. If you do, you will always have difficulties and possibly ruin your back.
My 81 will never roll back onto the stand. The bike may not be lifted straight up, but it certainly does need lifting.
I think that's the point with these problem stands.
My stand no longer has the little square pad for my foot, so I do miss some of the leverage offered by pushing down on the stand at that point.
Maybe I should weld another plate on there and use the stand as designed, which would certainly make it easier.
If I'm fully loaded for touring and deploying the stand on a backwards down hill slope, it is way easier to use.

At 6'2" the problem is just under the threshold of being a 'must fix' situation.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:50 AM   #25
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I have an '81 R100 that is missing it's center stand, I'm in the process of making new bushes and fittings based on using the original frame brackets and spring plates which are both still present. I'm also thinking of making a stand from scratch to overcome design flaws and the difficulty of putting the bike up on the stand. Not having even seen the stand fitted I'd love to see some photos of how they fit originally (both up and down), also I too would love to know what alternative stands I could use or base mine on as an improvement. Again, I've never even seen a Reynolds stand. Photos please?

I'll post photos of mine when I've made more progress then hopefully others who are handy could have a go at a repair/improvement.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:37 PM   #26
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I have an 11/1981 RS.

The stand has had repairs, including the grounded area reinforced and the lowering tang is beefier.

The bushes get changed every coupla years, as do the bolts. I generally keep them greased.

Had a look before and they're due.

Previous bikes have had worse stands (all RS's) and the technique described by Disston makes it easier. Not easy mind you, but easier. Friends have had a go at putting a previous RS on the cs, with no success. It's almost an anti-theft feature!


http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r100tic.html#centerstand

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Old 02-12-2013, 08:41 AM   #27
chasbmw
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these are pictures of Bluethumb's stand, it looks like a 81 on stand. lots of wear on the part that fits onto the frame and the hole looks if it might be a little oval



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Old 02-12-2013, 09:09 AM   #28
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Thanks to Charles for posting them.

The holes are actually good. It's the angle of the camera that makes 'em look oval. Off the frame, the bushing fit inside nicely. The ends do need welding up and regrinding.

But I sure don't see where there ever was a pad welded to the end as some have described.

For grins I'm going to take the CS off of my ST and see how it matches up
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:16 AM   #29
chasbmw
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if you take a look at the photos with my post you can see where weld has been used to build up the pad where the stand locates into the frame when it is deployed. Part of the problem with these stands is that only have a single cross tube, which is located low on the stand legs to clear the lower sump and I think the rear balance pipe which was introduced at the same time. This results in the upper part of the stand bowing outwards.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:05 AM   #30
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When I repaired my stand, I welded to increase the width of the stand contact point, from about 5mm to 8mm.
This assists in slowing the wear of the stand contact point.
The weld is built up towards the inside of the stand.
By placing the bike up on 3" blocks of wood, the c/stand can be easily installed and removed to grind the contact points equally.
The finished grind should have the stand at an angle which is getting close to.....well, falling forward off the stand, but not too close!
My stand is an excellent bmw ride off stand now, fantastic when fully loaded for touring.







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