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Old 02-05-2013, 05:55 PM   #14251
Dr E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santa View Post
The brake rod always pulls the lever on the hub forward.
There is no push. Go press the brake and see..
True in the OEM configuration...however, when you look inside and observe the mechanical operations of the drum breaks...whether you pull or push makes no difference. By inverting the lever, you loose no ability in function or performance on the brake mechanism itself. Rattling and banging of the control rod against the swing arm is a potential, but function will not be affected as the mechanical leverage is preserved.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:26 PM   #14252
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Indeed so due to the design of the actuating mechanism.
Continue onward.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:54 PM   #14253
locorider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santa View Post
The brake rod always pulls the lever on the hub forward.
There is no push. Go press the brake and see.

Mounting the lever on the hub above the swingarm gives clearance and a measure of protection from damage you might get say riding in a rut or splitting the gap betwen two rocks on a trail.

Unless you are using the TA in extreme off road conditions this is not needed.
I think the interference between the rod and swingarm causes more issues than if you just run it as stock in the low position, especially with long travel suspension.
You are right! Thanks!
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:09 AM   #14254
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There was discussion on the 250 shock mod and orientation with regards to the banjo being on the outside towards the tire, or oriented towards the engine. Concern was room inside the air box. Sorry if this is hard to see, but there is a 1/2" space between the banjo and the case of the air box. Where the reservoir hose extends, it may look like its bound up, but that is just how the canister is hanging off the bike. When I put it in its mounting place, there is no contact.





This is that chip I was talking about on the access port for the stator. My replacement LiMaCap-2 upgrade is slated to be delivered today. Turns out Frank has a distributor in San Francisco for these items which means no overseas shipping, instead just $5.00 USPS.



Well, we seem to be talking about it enough, here is the close up of the rear break linkage as she sits now.







On a good note: TGIF!

Eric
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:50 PM   #14255
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Oh boy

Africa twin in SD
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862281
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:24 AM   #14256
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That really seems like a sketchy deal right there. If he really did register it as a 1980 GL1000...well you may end up donating it to the USG if caught.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:23 AM   #14257
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Personal Opinion ONLY expressed in the following

Purely based on climate - If I were importing a bike from europe my priorities would be

1. Italy
2. German
3. France
27. UK

I've seen too many UK restoration threads. Their winter roads eat metal of all kinds. Things from brake calipers to the inside of the rims, nuts, bolts, electrical connections etc. All these thing should be looked at.

I'f I'm buying a bike that I have to tear all the way down first and then put back together again $10K is about '$6K too much even for an AT.

Suspect reg. would be another headache. Donna Leak can quickly get your AT legally tagged (even in California) for a very reasonable fee.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:35 AM   #14258
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That last tid bit of information is interesting on registration of the bike. May be of interest looking into that for a new bike? This little gem caught my eye last year...the Honda Crosstour



Its a dream at this point, but depending on costs maybe not a to far off dream?
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:36 PM   #14259
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Why bother - it's a Street Bike very thinly disguised as an Adventure Bike.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:43 AM   #14260
potski
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Hi guys,

I guess some would say they stopped making Transalps years ago anyway and you guys stateside haven't seen a new one in decades but still a shame if this is true

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832790

Cheers
Potski
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:41 AM   #14261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalTA View Post
Why bother - it's a Street Bike very thinly disguised as an Adventure Bike.
This would not be a replacement to the TA, just another bike for varied two up riding through BC, Victoria Island, the San Juan Islands and around the PNW with the wife. I can do that on the TA, but a little more get up and go.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:22 AM   #14262
Ladder106
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Quote:
but a little more get up and go.

Starting to miss the Falcon's horsepower already?
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:38 AM   #14263
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No, that is something I can get a fix on anytime (there's no snow). Just really day dreaming...

Now, in reality, I am close to having the TA wrapped up but I realize I need to upgrade an upgraded spring I have on my rear cr250 shock. With most of the bits and pieces it is now apparent that the spring is grossly underrated for the bike. So I am working with Mark at Hyperco springs and we are designing a new spring to accurately match the bikes load and ride. In going with the spring value of 11.5kg/mm as has been previously suggested in this thread, it gives a very mushy feeling to it and compresses to near 90% shock travel.

I plan on having the spring ordered by tomorrow and hopefully in house before the end of the month. I know I could go with a Wilber or other shock but sometimes I get a stubborn streak and push through till I get something done I planned on doing.

Oh well, back to the daily grind...
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:22 PM   #14264
wdeTA
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Comparing TAs

Hopefully Lomax won't mind. Side by side views of my TA and his (relatively) recent modified TA.



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Old 02-13-2013, 04:13 PM   #14265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
That thread went to Hell fast.

As much as I like the @'s looks, $9500 is a lot of $ for a 21 yo bike. A Triumph Tiger 800XC would cost a bit more and not look near as cool but would have nearly twice the hp, a six speed gearbox, and tubeless tires if you spring for the Explorer XC.
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