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Old 02-15-2013, 08:11 AM   #1
OlivierS OP
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torque wrench for KTM 990

I don't know if this is the right place for this thread, but i figure here is the most KTM knowledge...

So, I'm looking to buy a Torque wrench ( thank you google translate... ), I will only use it for the Adventure. I found a cheap one for 4 to 24 NM, is this enough for doing some basic work? I'm not planning to take the block out just yet but, like I said, basic work. I have a history of breaking screws and thread, so I wanna do it right this time...
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:33 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlivierS View Post
I don't know if this is the right place for this thread, but i figure here is the most KTM knowledge...

So, I'm looking to buy a Torque wrench ( thank you google translate... ), I will only use it for the Adventure. I found a cheap one for 4 to 24 NM, is this enough for doing some basic work? I'm not planning to take the block out just yet but, like I said, basic work. I have a history of breaking screws and thread, so I wanna do it right this time...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=20485745

I bought a CDI 10-60Nm torque wrench. CDI makes torque wrenches for Snap-on. Very high quality. That should do most things on the bike other than the rear axle that requires 90Nm. As some people mentioned in the thread I've linked to, using a torque wrench at the extremes of its range is probably not the best plan. Therefore, a better plan may be to buy a low-range torque wrench and then a higher range torque wrench for the bolts that need the greater torque.

I would suggest that you get a torque wrench with a ratching head. It is very difficult to torque things like spark plugs and head bolts without a ratcheting head on a torque wrench when they are in the middle of a trellis frame. Been there. Had that problem.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:36 AM   #3
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If you're an amateur like myself, you could look after a Unior 264 torque wrench. It's very versatile, from 5 to 110Nm. In Slovenia it costs about 65€, it is also made in Slovenia. You can find out more here:

http://www.unior.com/cgi-bin/cms.cgi...780&prod=15777
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:18 PM   #4
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Just make sure your always in the middle 60% of the wrenches range.
MOst all torque wrenches are most consistent in this range.

If you drop it,, you likely need to re-calibrate it (Click type) I used to work where we had a cal shop and
all the site torque wrenches got checked weekly or when dropped, funny hting,, we used snap on tools exclusively EXCEPT for torque wrenches, turned out Craftsman held their numbers better. :)

Dave
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:13 AM   #5
Blackbert
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Have a look in the owners manual, it lists all the torque specs for chassis and engine. for the smaller bolts and nuts, the numbers are low, all manageable with a 5-25Nm wrench. Besides that, I use a bigger one up to 100 something Nm for the taller nuts and bolts. Mine are Tengtools, somewhere in the mid price range.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbert View Post
Have a look in the owners manual, it lists all the torque specs for chassis and engine. for the smaller bolts and nuts, the numbers are low, all manageable with a 5-25Nm wrench. Besides that, I use a bigger one up to 100 something Nm for the taller nuts and bolts. Mine are Tengtools, somewhere in the mid price range.

Well, see, that is a bit of a problem, since I don't have a owners manual
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:59 AM   #7
Orangecicle
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Originally Posted by OlivierS View Post
Well, see, that is a bit of a problem, since I don't have a owners manual
http://www.ktm950.info/how/owners_ma...s_manuals.html Here are the owner's manuals. But, I think you are wanting the maintenance manual for your bike. Those are not available free online. You have to buy the CD.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:03 AM   #8
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https://dl.dropbox.com/u/103697227/T...%20chassis.xps
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/103697227/T...-%20engine.xps

Katoom72 screwed with this post 02-17-2013 at 07:10 AM
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:16 AM   #9
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thx guys the manual problem is fixed. who would have thought the internet would come in handy some day.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:14 AM   #10
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FWIW,

I don't use a torque wrench on my bike, and don't see it as a necessity. Of course I use one for things like head bolts, clutch basket, etc., but when I see guys that use them for clutch cover bolts and front axle pinch bolts I always kinda wonder.

My torque wrench is my hand and the way I hold the tool in question. And lots of experience with stripped bolts I guess.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:31 AM   #11
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Torque is not just a question of feel. For example, the tripple clamps: the bottom pinch bolts need to be 15 Nm; the top ones need to be 20 Nm. All are M8. In this case a torque wrench is important.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:36 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by RedRupert View Post
Torque is not just a question of feel. For example, the tripple clamps: the bottom pinch bolts need to be 15 Nm; the top ones need to be 20 Nm. All are M8. In this case a torque wrench is important.

Have you ever seen a clamp bolt come out? Or seen one so overtightened as to impede fork action? I haven't. Torque them both at 15, torque them both at 20, I don't think you or the bike can tell the difference. In 30 years, on everything I have owned, I have never torqued a fork clamp bolt and I have never had a problem of any kind. I honestly fail to see the need for concern.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:14 AM   #13
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It may be that not everyone is as experienced as you.

It's surprising how much damage, due to poor workmanship, can be found on used bikes. For this reason, it's a good idea to go by the book - i.e. by going by the book, there is less chance error.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brents347 View Post
FWIW,

I don't use a torque wrench on my bike, and don't see it as a necessity. Of course I use one for things like head bolts, clutch basket, etc., but when I see guys that use them for clutch cover bolts and front axle pinch bolts I always kinda wonder.

My torque wrench is my hand and the way I hold the tool in question. And lots of experience with stripped bolts I guess.
Realms of possibilities. Experience is the factor, learning torque’s by hand are incredibly precise, but leaning that feel using a torque wrench is cheaper, yet decreasing the learning curve on how to fix mistakes. I remember as a kid the lesson of a spark plug thread tapped direct to an ally head.

Precision engineering may ask 1Nm difference, difficult to feel by hand.

To OP, Halfords stock a professional range made by Norbar, the 3/8 covers 8-60Nm.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:18 AM   #15
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I will add to the fire...

10ft lb is 13.5nm. Is 7nm enough to sway someone to pay ~$60 more for a torque wrench that goes to 10nm.

The sears 3/8 clicker is $40 that will do 10ftlb/13.5nm. The digital that will do 5ft lb/6.7nm is $108
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