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Old 02-16-2013, 06:50 AM   #31
RFVC600R
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790? Hell yeah!
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He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:06 AM   #32
road_apple
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Great job

I amazed that more people don't do big bore projects like this. It's something that is doable by most with planning and attention. Big bore forged lighter weight pistons in an older thumper that's bulletproof to begin with. Cheaper than a new bike, gives you karma, confidence, and more the bike you want. You did a great service for those on the fence with the video.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:09 AM   #33
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Great job Mr. Planemanx.

I was on-the-fence about the 790 kit. Not anymore. I'm going to get this kit sent my way, post-haste. Have you had a chance to ride it yet? Impressions?

Did you have to let it high-idle for several minutes to get the cam to bed in? Gonna do the motoman break-in? How did you get the timing set after re-installing everything?

Thanks

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Old 02-16-2013, 09:39 AM   #34
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His post says they have been removed.... Can you read?

Regards, Paul
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:44 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Once everything was installed I started to clean the old gasket off the side case... what a pain in the ass that was. I went to auto zone for gasket remover (not sure if its a real product or not) but the guy directed me to carb cleaner and said that it will work... it didn't. I used a box cutter to cut a lot of the old gasket off. When I installed the new gasket, I used copper gasket spray and mounted it when it got tacky. After filling up the oil, cleaning up everything, installing all the parts I took off, I started the bike. Oil came pouring out of the top near the oil filter and all along the bottom.. I had to take everything apart again and clean the gasket surface again. I will admit that I didn't do a good job the first time around.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYBODY USES THIS METHOD, BE VERY CAREFUL SHOULD YOU DECIDE DO THIS:

To remove the old gasket, I used a 220 grit sandpaper and my rotating sander. I did not apply any pressure, and just used the weight of the sander to cut up the old gasket. when the surface was clean, i sprayed some more copper spray and tried again (this time not putting the bike together first, in case I had another issue). No problems at all. I am dreading removing the paper base gasket off my cylinder, but its gonna have to be done right.
To remove gaskets, I recommend 3M yellow Roloc bristle brushes. These fit on a drill or die grinder and make short work of gaskets, without harming the case itself. I used them when I installed a kick starter kit on my XT225, and they worked amazingly well, literally removing all the gasket and leaving a polished surface in less than 5 minutes. You will need the brush and holder to fit the drill. Yellow is the proper grit for aluminum cases. They come in different sizes, I found the 2" worked well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3m-7527-3-Sc...item3ccee5a02b
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:14 AM   #36
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Sleeper! Very nice, looking forward to performance impressions.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:39 PM   #37
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Part 2

Okay, so back to where I left off…

After getting the old piston off I took a quick break and got back to work. I felt accomplished that I got this far, but I still had (what I believed) was the hardest parts coming up. I mounted the new piston. I put the rings on days earlier, while staring at its beauty. I also installed one of the circlips. I used plenty of oil and installed the wrist pin and the final circlips. Those little bastards were tough to get on, but I managed.




Next was to get the cylinder on. I was trying to do this earlier in the week without oil, just to see how tough it might be once the piston is in place on the bike. It was pretty hard just to get that first ring in, but I didn’t push it too hard, because of the lack of oil. Once on the bike it would have been great to have a helper. The crank wanted to keep spinning as I pushed the cylinder on, and it was cause the timing chain to bunch up. I also had to put the gasket on, and the copper spray I has used was slightly wet and tacky, sticking to everything. I ended up getting some scrap wood and used it to keep the piston from going down.




Once I had oil on the cylinder and piston it slid in pretty good; tight of course, as it should be. The final oil ring popped a little bit out right before I got it in, so I had to pull the cylinder up a bit and then back down. Once completely in, I used a lot of force with my hands, and a mallet to get the base of the cylinder to meet with the top of the bottom end of the engine. This whole process was scaring the crap out of me. I thought it all would be going smoother, and I didn’t think it would be this tight, surely something was wrong.




I installed the head gasket and head, again careful not to drop the timing chain. Remember, everything was covered in oil, It was 40*F in the garage when all this was taking place, and I needed thin gloves to stay warm, but HATE working with gloves (old under armor gloves aren’t that bad, but still an added layer between me and the project at hand…Pun intended). I was working very slow and double checking everything to make sure that chain wouldn’t slip. I bolted the head down to 29 ft lbs as procycle’s directions said. I also oiled the bolts like he said as well.




The long head bolts, dipping in fresh oil:




Mess in the garage:

[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8Hj0o0rbHA4/US69gB8JJhI/AAAAAAAABJM/2mPrdLTSNo4/s512/1%2520%252837%2529.jpg/IMG]


When the head was finally bolted up, I took the opportunity to try and turn the crank to make sure I didn’t do anything wrong. The crank turned and of course the piston moved up and down! Next was getting the engine to top dead center (TDC) as per the method in the manual. I turned the crank till the little “T” was visible in the window. Now I went to the manual to see what it says about timing. Pretty basic: Engine at TDC sit the cam in the head with the lines parallel to the top of the head, and the pin (holds the gear on the cam to the cam along with the bolts) at the 3 o’clock position. Put the timing chain on without moving the piston from TDC. Once on, I put the first bolt in, and then spun the engine to put the second. Procycle supplies the metal locking tab that covers the pin from falling out. Installed the new one, torqued the bolts, bend the tabs, and hoped all was well.




Parts pile is getting smaller:




I installed the head cover next, and followed the manual with regards to which order the bolts go in. I then installed all the rest of the parts; oil lines, oil cooler, header, carb, air box, oil cooler guard, and cam chain tensioner.

The chain tensioner wasn't as much of a pain as I've heard. Just pull the bolt on the outside, use a small screw driver to hold the Mechanism back, and then hold it off with one hand and inserted into the cylinder. Once it's in use your other hand to put Hex bolts and then let go.

Good as new!




I put a piece of clean white paper under the engine to check for leaks:

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2000 Suzuki DR650-790 - 790cc Big bore build thread
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:40 PM   #38
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Part 3: First start

As you guys saw in the video, my first start was unsuccessful. I believe this was a combo of a few things. First, there was a lot of oil and WD-40 I put into the cylinder when installing (which is why it smoked like crazy). My carb is set way lean to save gas, and I think it wasn’t putting enough fuel in. I also didn’t have the fuel tank installed; it was working with just what was in the carb bowl. The battery wasn’t on its tender, and it was cold.

I let the battery charge a bit, installed the fuel tank, and tried again. It started when I pumped the throttle (I have a TM-40 with the accelerator pump), closed it, started and ripped it open to 2000rpm. Again it smoked a lot, and a bunch of burning oils were coming off the engine. After about 3 minutes, I was able to lower the throttle, and shut the choke off. I let the engine heat the oil to 190*F and shut it off. I restart it a few minutes later, and it started fine while hot.

At 29215 miles, my dr650 became a DR790:

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Old 02-16-2013, 08:41 PM   #39
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Today I went outside and checked on the oil paper:


My washer was leaking oil from the oil plug. It is a very small leak; I bought a new washer and will fix it on the first oil change in a hundred miles.

I also finally installed a fuel filter after 2+ years:



I adjusted the valves, moved the needle clip down a notch, and finished patching up the bike. I also wrapped the exhaust with header wrap.

I guess you’re all wondering how it rides??
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:01 PM   #40
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After cleaning the garage, letting the bike idle at various RPM’s and installing everything else, it was time to ride. As I got on the bike, I was nervous about how this was going to feel. I pulled out of my driveway and just stayed on some local back roads. At first, it completely felt the same, no difference at all from the 650. I was thinking holy crap, did I just waste all that money to have the same bike!?!?! The only difference was a shutter when downshifting that went away after a few minutes. Maybe it was caused by the new clutch. Speaking of the clutch, the Barnett clutch is friggin tight! Harder pull (might be bad in traffic) but it picks up way faster than the stocker.


Back to the engine: I got on a straight stretch and opened the throttle up to 5000rpm and held on… Holy torque Batman! Before I knew it I was doing 60, and had to brake. Since everything felt okay, I jumped on a local highway. My current gearing is 17-42. Usually at 74 mph, I’m at 4700 rpm. Now at 74 mph I’m at 4400 rpm. Nice decrease. Also has plenty of power to get away and it feels like it can just keep pulling. I didn't go faster than 76 and didn't want to push the rpm too high. I did plenty of down shifting.

Now the sound… the sound is incredible. With the hayabusa muffler and the wrap, all the sound is this deep growling thump. I’ve never hear anything like it. I want to ride just to hear that sound again... Simply amazing!

At one point I road through a wet patch before a turn (all that snow is finally melting) and I twisted the throttle as I normally after a turn. The rear wheel just started to spin and wouldn't grab. I can tell this is going to be a fun bike. I’m excited to go 2-up and see what that’s like. Once the break in is over, I’ll feel better about pushing it harder.


When I got home, my father told me job well down (he wasn't fully on-board with the idea of breaking open a good stock bike). He then asked what I’m going to do next. “Ride, lots of riding” I am planning a trip to Toronto to see family, and I have no doubts this bike can handle it.

Stay tuned… I’m going to keep riding it and reporting back here about anything I find. My next thing is to see how back my mileage suffered. I hope it didn’t drop below 45mpg. I also will be returning my cylinder back to procycle to get my core charge back. My bank account misses that $500 lol.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:10 PM   #41
planemanx15 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by road_apple View Post
I amazed that more people don't do big bore projects like this. It's something that is doable by most with planning and attention. Big bore forged lighter weight pistons in an older thumper that's bulletproof to begin with. Cheaper than a new bike, gives you karma, confidence, and more the bike you want. You did a great service for those on the fence with the video.
Thank you. I haven't seen any installation guides and I'm sure meany people want to get this kit but aren't sure what it is going to take to do. I love my DR, and I'm sure its going to be in the garage for a very long time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Great job Mr. Planemanx.

I was on-the-fence about the 790 kit. Not anymore. I'm going to get this kit sent my way, post-haste. Have you had a chance to ride it yet? Impressions?

Did you have to let it high-idle for several minutes to get the cam to bed in? Gonna do the motoman break-in? How did you get the timing set after re-installing everything?

Thanks

I didn't replace the cam, so I don't know if it has to bed in at all. Check out one of the above posts about the timing. Like you said to me, it was not difficult at all . I'm going to do a modified motoman break-in. basically the same thing, but not as rough. I did a lot of down shifting to put pressure on the rings. During the first few times doing it, i felt a strange shake, not sure what that was, but it went away after a few minutes. Could be the clutch, could be the engine about to explode .


Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo66 View Post
To remove gaskets, I recommend 3M yellow Roloc bristle brushes. These fit on a drill or die grinder and make short work of gaskets, without harming the case itself. I used them when I installed a kick starter kit on my XT225, and they worked amazingly well, literally removing all the gasket and leaving a polished surface in less than 5 minutes. You will need the brush and holder to fit the drill. Yellow is the proper grit for aluminum cases. They come in different sizes, I found the 2" worked well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3m-7527-3-Sc...item3ccee5a02b
Thanks for the tip, I'll keep this in mind should I do this again. A friend of mine is thinking about getting a DR over the summer and converting it.

EDIT: This is my 650th post... time to get that count up to 790!
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:21 PM   #42
Rob.G
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Great write-up!!!! Thank you very much! Now I'm wishing my own bank account had the funds in it RIGHT NOW to order a kit. :)

A few questions... given 29k miles on your bike, did you replace the head bolts? I'm guessing you did NOT replace the timing chain? I have 25k on mine and figure I'll have closer to 30k before I open it up for my 790 kit, and had been planning on replacing those parts as a precaution. I wonder how necessary it is. I know on car motors, it's considered standard practice to replace the head bolts whenever you remove them.

'Course I'm also (tentatively) planning to pull my motor and split the case and check out the transmission, replace all the bearings, and consider the billet 3rd gear if I can spare another $500. I'll have to wait and see how yours holds up. :)

Anyway, great job, and we sure do appreciate the write-up and photos!

Rob
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:23 PM   #43
doug s.
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nice! congrats!

but, i don't understand why the rpms would not be exactly the same if you didn't change gearing. if you were at 4700rpms at 74mph before, changing the engine displacement alone shouldn't affect that... you should still be at 4700rpms at 74mph...

doug s.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:32 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Great write-up!!!! Thank you very much! Now I'm wishing my own bank account had the funds in it RIGHT NOW to order a kit. :)

A few questions... given 29k miles on your bike, did you replace the head bolts? I'm guessing you did NOT replace the timing chain? I have 25k on mine and figure I'll have closer to 30k before I open it up for my 790 kit, and had been planning on replacing those parts as a precaution. I wonder how necessary it is. I know on car motors, it's considered standard practice to replace the head bolts whenever you remove them.

'Course I'm also (tentatively) planning to pull my motor and split the case and check out the transmission, replace all the bearings, and consider the billet 3rd gear if I can spare another $500. I'll have to wait and see how yours holds up. :)

Anyway, great job, and we sure do appreciate the write-up and photos!

Rob
If my third gear goes, I'll eventually get another motor when the time comes and replace this. Ill move the kit over to that engine should it not be destroyed . I don't think I'll have a problem though. (Fingers crossed). I didn't even think to replace the head bolts or timing chain. They looked alright, but maybe I should have...

Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
nice! congrats!

but, i don't understand why the rpms would not be exactly the same if you didn't change gearing. if you were at 4700rpms at 74mph before, changing the engine displacement alone shouldn't affect that... you should still be at 4700rpms at 74mph...

doug s.
Even though the gearing is the same, the bigger engine works less to obtain that speed. At least that's my theory
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:08 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I didn't replace the cam, so I don't know if it has to bed in at all...
Yeah, sorry 'bout that. Sometimes my reading comprehension ain't too good. I was thinking about doing the big bore and the stage 2 cam, but I think I'll just do like you and do the 790 kit first, and then maybe sometime this summer swap out the cam.

Couple questions: Why did you change the placement of the carb needle. I know you mentioned your carb was set pretty lean; did you guess at that change or did PC recommend a different setting. I've got jetted stock carb and open airbox, and my bike runs great. I'm just trying to anticipate if I should plan on making some jetting changes ahead of time?

Are you running a stock or over-size header? From the pix it looks like a stocker.

The only thing different I plan to do on my build up is to do a base-line dyno run of what I have now, and then another dyno run after to see the difference each modifications makes. There is a dealership with a dyno 7 miles from my house. They also use an exhaust gas analyser, so I can see if I need to make some carb/jetting changes as well.

Thanks again, you pushed me over the edge on this one....
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