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Old 02-15-2013, 02:15 PM   #6901
elsalvadorklr
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Location: el salvador
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensEskildsen View Post
Hey Christian...

Oeh no, rust on a dirtbike, were all doomed....

Leave it alone and save the money for some stainless. It seems like you have a lot of money in the stock headers, when buying different kinds of paint, ect?
yeah yeah I know...

no not a lot ofmoney, actually I painted them 3 different times with 2 paints I had already...

what I really want to do is wrap them and let them crumble to death so I can BE FORCED INTO USING MY 2 INTO 2 HEADERS THAT I RESTORED...

I need to save up for a dual header exhaust

on ebay the GPR TRI OVAL made in italy is 390 smackers

well made as is the staintune
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:21 PM   #6902
elsalvadorklr
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anybody want to trade exhausts? we can probably work out shipping...jajajaja

fmf powercore is 8lbs...

I also have a complete excel front wheel for 91 and or 88 and up I can throw in both axles and add ons for you

jajaja

wishful thinking I know

peace

p.s. steve is the 80 bucks for header and oe exhaust?????? ps isnt powdercoating too thick for exhaust systems?
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:51 PM   #6903
mcma111
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Yes, $80.00 for the full exhaust. It's Hi-Temp powder coating. The proof will be seen in about a week whether it bubbles and rusts or it doesn't.

I have a couple headers with good paint and no rust if you want one of them.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:16 PM   #6904
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
anybody want to trade exhausts? we can probably work out shipping...jajajaja

fmf powercore is 8lbs...

I also have a complete excel front wheel for 91 and or 88 and up I can throw in both axles and add ons for you

jajaja

wishful thinking I know

peace

p.s. steve is the 80 bucks for header and oe exhaust?????? ps isnt powdercoating too thick for exhaust systems?
I'll trade you the OEM one (with out the baffle). Haha.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:17 AM   #6905
Royal Club
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got my mirrors today lol..







these things are huuuuge
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:03 AM   #6906
Mossy-Back
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royal Club View Post
got my mirrors today lol..


these things are huuuuge
Huge mirrors, and tiny little handguards...
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:46 PM   #6907
elsalvadorklr
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geeze royal...what you trying to look at?

May I politley recomend moving the mounts inwards and not go over 100kph...you will have massive BUFFETING

or not

what do I know

jajajajjaja
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:47 PM   #6908
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
I'll trade you the OEM one (with out the baffle). Haha.
gee thanks!

I still have mine...its been crashed into and full of rust and holes...is yours like that too? jajajaja
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:26 PM   #6909
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
geeze royal...what you trying to look at?

May I politley recomend moving the mounts inwards and not go over 100kph...you will have massive BUFFETING

or not

what do I know

jajajajjaja
cant move them inwards bro, no more room left! handlebar is full as it is!

Throttlehousing, M/C, engine stopswitch, handguard bracket,
otherside;
Clutch perch, lightswitch, decompressor, hotstart, handguard bracket
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:49 PM   #6910
elsalvadorklr
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i hear ya

I use one when long distance riding...it plugs into the master cylinder hole... no matter what I do, it will always bend because of the wind...its short even...

the again I like to go up to 90mph on the street every once in a while! jajajaja

thats life
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:21 PM   #6911
deejay_xr
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Anybody here have some experience with baking painted parts?

I might just be doing some work on my engine soon and I'm thinking of painting the side covers, stator and clutch.

From what I've heard I can use regular, good quality paint on these, as they don't get hot enough to necessitate high temp paint ( unless one of you says otherwise ! ).

I've read that baking the part for about 20 minutes makes the paint better cured and more durable. I can do this in my gas-powered kitchen oven.

How long do I bake the parts? At what temperature?
And do I bake them when the paint is still wet, dry to the touch, or completely dry?
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:44 PM   #6912
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejay_xr View Post
Anybody here have some experience with baking painted parts?

I might just be doing some work on my engine soon and I'm thinking of painting the side covers, stator and clutch.

From what I've heard I can use regular, good quality paint on these, as they don't get hot enough to necessitate high temp paint ( unless one of you says otherwise ! ).

I've read that baking the part for about 20 minutes makes the paint better cured and more durable. I can do this in my gas-powered kitchen oven.

How long do I bake the parts? At what temperature?
And do I bake them when the paint is still wet, dry to the touch, or completely dry?
Make sure that "regular" paint is oil and fuel resistant..
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:48 PM   #6913
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royal Club View Post
Make sure that "regular" paint is oil and fuel resistant..
Good point
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:04 PM   #6914
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejay_xr View Post
Good point
My cilinder and head are painted with VHT heat resistant paint with no clearcoat and it holds up nicely. Had the tower in diesel fuel for a couple of hours and nothing changed.. had some brakefluid run over it too, still sitting (although I did wipe the brake fluid off after about 10minutes..)
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:09 PM   #6915
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royal Club View Post
My cilinder and head are painted with VHT heat resistant paint with no clearcoat and it holds up nicely. Had the tower in diesel fuel for a couple of hours and nothing changed.. had some brakefluid run over it too, still sitting (although I did wipe the brake fluid off after about 10minutes..)
What brand did you use? Something locally available in Holland?
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