Call all XR600R!!!

[deejay_xr]

Originally Posted by Royal Club

My cilinder and head are painted with VHT heat resistant paint with no clearcoat and it holds up nicely. Had the tower in diesel fuel for a couple of hours and nothing changed.. had some brakefluid run over it too, still sitting (although I did wipe the brake fluid off after about 10minutes..)

What brand did you use? Something locally available in Holland?

[deejay_xr]

Thanks for the PM Royal !

Anyone familiar with the baking process? Website sorta says that the heating of the engine will work as well...

[elsalvadorklr]

they say the same for headers...but I think we all know how that ends

I did that the first time...painted them, after etching the headers clean as a baby butt...then sprayed 10 thin coats with time in between to set...

put headers on

and cycled the engine, 2 mins, then a bit more

worked great for a month

then all of a sudden all hell breaks loose one ride and I got crusty caked headers

nice

jajajja

let us know how it works out

good luck

[Captain115]

Originally Posted by deejay_xr

Anybody here have some experience with baking painted parts?

I might just be doing some work on my engine soon and I'm thinking of painting the side covers, stator and clutch.

From what I've heard I can use regular, good quality paint on these, as they don't get hot enough to necessitate high temp paint ( unless one of you says otherwise ! ).

I've read that baking the part for about 20 minutes makes the paint better cured and more durable. I can do this in my gas-powered kitchen oven.

How long do I bake the parts? At what temperature?
And do I bake them when the paint is still wet, dry to the touch, or completely dry?

Hey deejay,

Yeah I've used various heat resistant paints from a couple of different manufactuers: 3M, Duplicolour and VHT. I preferred 3M but can't seem to find it in my local auto store (Supercheap) but really they are all very similar. I sprayed my entire frame with some of this stuff actually and left it in the sun for 2 weeks (my only way of 'baking' it) and it seemed to work very well, doesn't chip, flake or rub off.



I also have painted my entire engine with some of the duplicolour engine enamel (both the primer and the topcoat) and it has worked fantastically as you can see in the photos. Obviously I couldn't put the entire motor in the oven so I just ran it for a bit and seemed to bake on fine, as I can't scratch this with my fingernail or with with moderate force from a screwdriver. I was most impressed with the way it seems to be holding up on my magnesium sidecovers, although I did an extensive amount of prep: degrease, wash, sand, wipe down with acetone etc.

Before:


After:



Probably doesn't help you but I have found the muffler paint to also work ell (on the muffler obviously).

Finally I have also used some of the brake caliper paint, although I'm fairly sure it is all the same sort of stuff, and I bake all those parts and it seems to be fine against brake fluid etc if it is wiped off quickly. Following the instruction I preped like I normally do (see above), primed it using some left over engine enamel primer, and then hit it with two coats of the caliper paint. Waited about an hour till it was dry to the touch and chucked it all in the oven at 200 degrees (Centigrade, not Fahrenheit). Smelt funky but luckily I had waited till my housemates had left and I wacked the extraction fan on and an hour later pull them out.




Long story short: I reckon this stuff is pretty good. As long as you cure it some way, such as in the oven or running the engine, it should turn out great. In Australia this paint is realllllly expensive though, but not sure if this applies over there.

Hope this helps,

John

[deejay_xr]

Originally Posted by Captain115

After:



Long story short: I reckon this stuff is pretty good. As long as you cure it some way, such as in the oven or running the engine, it should turn out great. In Australia this paint is realllllly expensive though, but not sure if this applies over there.

Hope this helps,

John

Hey John,

Thanks for the detailed reply, that worked out nicely !

How many coats did you use on the engine parts?

Cheers !

[elsalvadorklr]

very very nice 88 engine captain...

we do not have duplicolor engine enamel down here...bummer x2...

thats awesome the magnesium is holding up...

now headers

lets see succesful header paint pics! jajajaja

[Captain115]

Originally Posted by deejay_xr

Hey John,

Thanks for the detailed reply, that worked out nicely !

How many coats did you use on the engine parts?

Cheers !

Well on the can it says that all the coats must be done within a one hour window, I assume because some crazy chemical bonding shit happens. After that hour you should wait like a week (I know right, as if) and then do it again.

For the engine parts I hit it with 4 coats of primer (1 realllly light, 2 fairly light and one medium) and then left it a couple of days in the sun, wet sanded it a little with between 800 and 1200 grit, wiped down with acetone and then shot the main coat (1 very light, 2 light, 2 medium). Each coat was left to dry got between 5 and 10 minutes before shooting the next one, I did it in my garage so there was no direct sunlight or wind etc.

Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr

very very nice 88 engine captain...

we do not have duplicolor engine enamel down here...bummer x2...

thats awesome the magnesium is holding up...

now headers

lets see succesful header paint pics! jajajaja

Ahh headers I'm not so sure about, I've noticed your post regaurding the headers lately. I hit mine with the wire wheel, then did some hand sanding while going up the grits (400, 800, 1200, 2000) and then some metal polish although that probably burns straight off. Benefit of me using the stainless headers I guess, downside is the lack of available mufflers though (I know you went through this saga too).

Like presented in this thread. I remember hearing some saying about using clear muffler paint on the header to help avoid it rusting and so on? I reckon you should come back to the brotherhood of twin header XR's, it would make me feel less sad about not finding a pipe to fit them. Have you considered just getting a fabricator to make a little 2-into-1 connector?

Though as my Dad keeps saying "it's just a dirt bike, ride it into the ground, sell it, and buy another. Continue to repeat this".

Ohhhh PS: about the brake caliper problem with the pistons not retracting? I ordered new seals (not here yet because Australia Post is useless) but also lightly sanded the lips of the piston holes, just about the dust seals as this had some crap caked on, and suddenly it all works perfectly. Weird but I'm not complaining. Got new sintered pads as well which seem to work great. Thanks everyone for the ideas and suggestions and tips during the whole caliper brake system debacle.

Cheers,

John

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr

very very nice 88 engine captain...

we do not have duplicolor engine enamel down here...bummer x2...

thats awesome the magnesium is holding up...

now headers

lets see succesful header paint pics! jajajaja

Christian you need to dump the stock steel headers and get some stainless ones, you'll never be happy with the stockers, and will be constantly struggling to keep them from rusting and looking decent. Plus you'll gain power and lose weight with the aftermarket headers, and be glad you bought them every time you look at them (they look sweet ), or spray them off and use a little metal polish to clean them back up to new.
We can find some super deals here in the states for FMF/Big Gun etc headers......I've seen Hi-Flo headers for 207 bucks shipped in the U.S., I paid 226 shipped for my powerbomb.
I'm not sure how that would relate to your area, but if you can get a set it will make you a happy man...performance and looks/durability wise
Money well spent imo

Heck Spud bought a Hi-Flo header and stuck it on his stock bike, including stock muffler, JUST for the ease of maintainence and better looks/durability from rusting.....he didn't even care about any performance gains.

The stock steel headers from honda were just a cost cutting measure......honestly they suck unless you never hit the dirt or ride in the wet.

[elsalvadorklr]

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper

Christian you need to dump the stock steel headers and get some stainless ones, you'll never be happy with the stockers, and will be constantly struggling to keep them from rusting and looking decent. Plus you'll gain power and lose weight with the aftermarket headers, and be glad you bought them every time you look at them (they look sweet ), or spray them off and use a little metal polish to clean them back up to new.
We can find some super deals here in the states for FMF/Big Gun etc headers......I've seen Hi-Flo headers for 207 bucks shipped in the U.S., I paid 226 shipped for my powerbomb.
I'm not sure how that would relate to your area, but if you can get a set it will make you a happy man...performance and looks/durability wise
Money well spent imo

Heck Spud bought a Hi-Flo header and stuck it on his stock bike, including stock muffler, JUST for the ease of maintainence and better looks/durability from rusting.....he didn't even care about any performance gains.

The stock steel headers from honda were just a cost cutting measure......honestly they suck unless you never hit the dirt or ride in the wet.

yeah yeah I know, thanks so much for the info,,

you know I was about to pm you with a specific question on your powerbomb header...I know you like them...

the question was how close does the BOMB part sit to the oil pipe on the oil feed to the head?

also my bike finally has some engine mods...still stock comp, the flatslide and HEADER might be a good pairing NOW...

Im still a firm beleiver that HEADERS mean nothing on a stock bike...really its THE LAST thing to mod always...

so, sierra can you go by your mod list again and detail performance gains with each? jejejejeje



PS. CAPTAIN hell yeah...I need to go back to being an original 88 bike..that couple issue I justcant seem to find someone that can say really yes I can do it and not sell me a peice of crap turd steel... seriously I went to a pro muffler shop once and said hey I need a coupler...they came back with some GALVANIZED thick as hell pipe and said yeah we can do it....

I SLOWLY walked away...slowly....making sure my I never showed them my back as I felt the stare of DEATH....jajajaja

[elsalvadorklr]

Originally Posted by Captain115

Ohhhh PS: about the brake caliper problem with the pistons not retracting? I ordered new seals (not here yet because Australia Post is useless) but also lightly sanded the lips of the piston holes, just about the dust seals as this had some crap caked on, and suddenly it all works perfectly. Weird but I'm not complaining. Got new sintered pads as well which seem to work great. Thanks everyone for the ideas and suggestions and tips during the whole caliper brake system debacle.

Cheers,

John

John I knew something was going on IN the caliper...the caliper needs to be perfect, seals, pistons and piston holes cavity...really its simple as heck...fluid needs to flow and the moving parts need to move freely...

I use polish and a felt rag or something when doing the pistons...of most importance is to clean the grooves of the seals perfectly...this will allow correct pressure if the seals against the pistons...

yes If you had crud that will most definetly cause havoc against the poor pistons...thats why I like to POLISH the pistons

[elsalvadorklr]

check this out guys!

what a day, not only did my little montero blow a head gasket and get water leaking in cylinder #4

I said well might as well PAINT my headers on the bike and shazaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam!

booooooooooooyah



tis life

ps save money for the baby, wtf indeed!

[deejay_xr]

What caused that?

[deejay_xr]

Or did you just punch a hole in the thing to give yourself an excuse?

[Royal Club]

I bet Chris gets pleasure out of poking headers..

[elsalvadorklr]

Originally Posted by deejay_xr

What caused that?

I think it got hit by the swingarm linkage causing it to smash into the rear engine triangle frame mount bolts...I could see the rubbing on the bolt head

deejay, yes this is an excuse too! beleive me Im actually happy that I know this header is done

I almost feel like mounting the twin headers and old exhaust for shits and giggles