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Old 02-17-2013, 04:58 AM   #3841
MizzouRider
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Originally Posted by ROD CURRIE View Post
"These trips are maybe a way of stripping life back and shucking off the trappings of adulthood (these things we so wanted)-Homes with attendant mortgages, children, work pressures -all this work stuff that's SO IMPORTANT at the time and you're hurling yourself at the wall to make it happen-but it'll be forgotten in a year, paying the bills........ and allowing yourself to take all your pleasure-and motivation- again from just riding a bike in the wilderness, camping, smelling the flowers, having good people around you.

All you have to worry about is have you gas in the tank, food for tonight and a beer?-you're sorted."
I might be changing my sig line.. With credit to you Rod, of course.. This captures my thoughts very well...
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:37 AM   #3842
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Hey.... she's wearing a musician skirt.... or musikant-skjørt (les: mus-i-kant) as it's known in Norwegian.... and only the Norwegians will get that reference
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:16 AM   #3843
Colebatch OP
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Originally Posted by elias View Post
Walter could the rim from your XC fit in the F 800? they are both BMW. And then you could take a new one in Moscow. Steve could pay for that if you wanted.
Any 21 inch rim would fit. The main question is one of practicality.

We could not change wheels as Terry and I were both running KTM spec wheels despite the fact they were on BMWs. The wheels would not have fitted Steve's bike. The only solution was to pull the wheel apart to get a rim.

We had planned to get in touch with off road bikers in Yakutsk and see if they had any rims they could sell Steve. Then we saw kudu with spare wheels. The simplest solution was to use one of those. Terry and I had to ride our bikes back from Moscow to western Europe in 4 weeks, just 1 week after the bikes were due to arrive. So there would be very little time to effect a solution. Terry and I were not waiting around in Moscow for the bikes - we were going to fly in and ride them out the next day. Also we both had top quality excel rims. There is no stock of those in Moscow to replace our rims with. It would potentially have been very expensive for Steve to arrange for an A60 rim to be imported to Moscow, pay import duty and then get it laced to my hub.

The solution with kudu was the most logical on every count.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:38 AM   #3844
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Originally Posted by rdwalker View Post
On another note: I thought you guys were riding in the middle of nowhere. Far away. Yet, anywhere you go, you meet fellow travelers. What's the matter. is the place totally overrun by moto adventurers? Is it like New York City, where the only pedestrians on a weekend are tourists?

If you start on the BAM road and plan to end up in Magadan, there is only one road. And everyone passing thru is in touch with Bolot - our man in Yakutsk. When you email him and tell him you will be in town in 3 days time he tells you who else will be around - cyclists, motorcyclists, 4wd expeditioners - Bolot knows all.

There is only a 6 week season up there anyway - almost everyone to go up there goes betweenm mid july and end august. Probably 20-30 a season and most stay in Yakutsk a few days to prepare for road of bones. So you always have a chance to meet people there.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:49 PM   #3845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post


No cafe here ... just grabbed what we could from the village store. A couple of pirozhki.

Sorry for arriving late, but I had the feeling to have already seen these places (even if still never been there) ,so I fetched an old family album : some 1942 photos taken by my father when was soldier in WWII are strangely similar.



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Old 02-17-2013, 04:20 PM   #3846
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Trim Paint

I have noticed that along this trip a lot of buildings have the trim painted blue. This is not common in the U.S and was wondering if there is any significance to the color. Maybe a welcome?
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:39 PM   #3847
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Originally Posted by DyrWolf View Post
I have noticed that along this trip a lot of buildings have the trim painted blue. This is not common in the U.S and was wondering if there is any significance to the color. Maybe a welcome?
Possibly our Russian friends can give more explanation, but on general note. Blue is generally a colour of human life. And its got much more meaning in Eastern Orthodox icon painting: blue is human, while red is God.

Quote:
If you look at icons of Jesus and Mary: Jesus wears red undergarment with a blue outer garment (God become Human) and Mary wears a blue undergarment with a red overgarment (human was granted gifts by God),
Lots of buildings showing blue trim in Ukraine, Russsia, rural Greece etc. Everywhere where Orthodox religion remains strong.

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Old 02-17-2013, 05:00 PM   #3848
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I love this interactive book!
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:39 PM   #3849
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Still following along here. I notice in the pictures that Terry, like me, only wears his glasses when he needs to see something....

Fantastic report, Guys!!!
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:58 PM   #3850
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Color my world, paint my house

Quote:
Originally Posted by mario33 View Post
Possibly our Russian friends can give more explanation, but on general note. Blue is generally a colour of human life. And its got much more meaning in Eastern Orthodox icon painting: blue is human, while red is God.



Lots of buildings showing blue trim in Ukraine, Russsia, rural Greece etc. Everywhere where Orthodox religion remains strong.
A good read is Mario Puzo's book, "The Sicilian" as it explains a 'lot' about the cultural colors of peoples homes in Sicily...and many don't even know why they choose certain colors. It might not explain the family-colors where the ride takes place, but there is enough carry over that you will get the drift.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:43 AM   #3851
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Originally Posted by rdwalker View Post
Now, let me get this straight. You built a wheel just by setting the spokes, without a rig? You are a damn magician! That is something I would never attempt - and I did work on bicycle and motorcycle spoke wheels.
rdwalker: compared to the old one - how bad could it possibly go haha. There were a couple of moments I felt like this did not go very well, but it actually became quite good. Guess I am putting on a Excel rim on the bike this summer - still not sure if I should try to do it myself again or give it in the hand of a professional :) Guess it might be an idea to get it done!
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:36 AM   #3852
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Road of Bones primer

While you guys wait for the Norwegians , there was a drive of the Road of Bones in winter in a group of cars (filming for the BBC) in the 2012 winter.

So if you want to know what its like at a different time of year ... here you go: Escorted by a couple of British stand up comics.

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Old 02-18-2013, 09:41 AM   #3853
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Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
It is theoretically repairable en route ... if you have a needle that can add 12 bar of nitrogen into the reservoir. Maybe I should do a shock repair course with Prutser at some stage. Repairing shocks is beyond my current capabilities. An apprenticeship would be a good idea :)
Colebatch, I've been working on Gas pressure shocks for 40 years starting in the '70s while racing buggies in Baja. I use Air instead of Nitrogen. Even though the manufacturers like to use 250psi or so, in most cases 125 to 150 is adequate.

I have even taken to sharpening the sealing V of rubber seals with a 1/4" hand drill motor and a rotary stone. I do it on Fork seals and the monoshock seal of my street bike.

I do it because I'm cheap, but more to test my theories. I always imagine that I'll be somewhere where I can't get parts. Irkutsk comes to mind as a good example.

.....so by using the seals over and air to refill the shocks and diluted, with mineral spirits, 30weight oil, a field service is not too difficult.

Best to get with Prutser for a practice session first. Think removing the seals with air pressure or hydraulics to keep from hurting the seals.

And those plastic Seal Mates will fix your leaks 50% of the time.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:59 AM   #3854
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Thumb Walter and Terry, thank you from the bottom of my heart

It was a strange day when we left Walter and Terry in Yakutsk. Their bikes had been loaded on a lorry and sent to Moscow. They would leave soon after.




We bid our farewells in the morning and left.




The night before we all had a nice time with a few beers. Walter gave us a lot of tips for the road ahead and Terry was smiling as always.




I will now talk a little about Walter and Terry. I will start with Terry

I think Terry is the ideal riding buddy. Alway smiling He has a ton of experience and his mood is always top ten. Not a foul word did ever come out of his mouth. "I just love to ride my bike", he often said. Nothing more, nothing less I admire him for that.
If there is a tiny itsy bitsy Vodka around, he is always up for it And Terry moves the dance floor
In short, Terry is just a great guy to be around and I hope I will have the honor of riding with him again.




Walter is a walking encyclopedia of the region. Most people with his kind of knowledge usually feel they are a bit above the rest. Not so with Walter. He willingly shares all his information and wisdom to those who asks. With great patience When I contacted him a couple of years ago he was there right away dispensing his advise and thoughts. He really wanted to share his love for the region and to encourage other people to go there. I admire him for that and he is a role model for others to follow

Just like Terry, Walter is always positive. When things broke down or we had a bad hair day, "No problem". Walter is also very creative. Always looking for ways to improve his bike and new areas of the world to explore

In short, Walter is a great guy and I hope I will have the honor of riding with him again.




Again, thank you both, from the bottom of my heart, for being the wonderful human beings you are
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:11 AM   #3855
kahlgryndiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
While you guys wait for the Norwegians , there was a drive of the Road of Bones in winter in a group of cars (filming for the BBC) in the 2012 winter.
It seems to be much easier in winter ... especially the river crossings.
Except the cold maybe

I would like to do that.
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