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02-17-2013, 09:10 AM
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#1 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 56
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R1100GS rear spring/shock
I'd like to change the spring rate on the rear shock. I know I can send it out (and may), but would like try it myself if possible.
Has anyone here changed out their own spring, and would like to share any tips/tricks? Thanks |
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02-17-2013, 10:15 AM
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#2 |
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A proud pragmatist.
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,004
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If like I think you have to push the spring retainer down 1/2" or so and remove the circlip, then release. OEM shock ???
I made compressors out of UHMW, had some around but plywood would have done it also.Hole cutters and maybe a groove on one of the plates to clear the line for the preloader and then some holes and 3 lenghts of threaded rod. Showa parts: Clear the obstacles: Showas have a circlip, you can see it there: SWL....I think I went well past where I could have released the circlip... ![]() It has been a while but there are also is a grubscrew or two. One to remove the dampener adjustment knob??? And also one to prevent the preloader from turning. Small grubscrews and I had difficulties releasing one of them without stripping it.
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Have tools, will travel!
H96669 screwed with this post 02-17-2013 at 10:35 AM |
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02-17-2013, 10:42 AM
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#3 |
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Not afraid
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: N.W. Arkansas
Oddometer: 11,426
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Nice thread and information!
now, what is the stock spring rate? diameter and length? so we can try to find replacement springs that arent big $$$
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"A little inaccuracy sometimes saves a ton of explanation." - H. H. Munro (Saki) (1870-1916) |
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02-17-2013, 01:02 PM
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#4 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 56
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H96669 - Great info! Yes, it's the OEM shock.
mouthfull - Good question, what is the stock spring rate?? Who knows of a good supplier for these springs? My only concern is that typically, dampers are valved to work with a certain spring rate. Will the stock valving be able to control a heavier spring rate? |
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02-17-2013, 02:43 PM
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#5 |
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A proud pragmatist.
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,004
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I know they can be rebuilt and improved.Rear only, not the front that one is crimped and can't be opened unless something came up in the last couple years. But I don't think so.
Someone was doing that on here, shock rebuilts so I contacted him and got some good info at the time. But I think he may be in jail now so no go there...! ![]() New spring...valve work etc was around $400.00. Check the Hyperpro USA website I know they have "progressive" spring sets listed for a lot of BMWs. Also a lot of them seem to be low on oil in the preloader, that was my case not much action at the lowest settings. Easy refilling them, if you google a little you should be able to find a procedure.
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Have tools, will travel!
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02-17-2013, 05:28 PM
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#6 |
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Banned Camp
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Southern California
Oddometer: 988
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I'm amazed by the creativity of some inmates here.
Congrats H96669 for doing such a ingenuous tools of plywood and screws.
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Motorcycle Trips, Photos and Maps 2002 BMW K1200LTe - 2004 BMW R1150GSAdventure 2005 BMW R1200GS - 1998 BMW R1100GS Loma Linda - CA - IBA#14,458 - AMA |
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02-18-2013, 07:09 AM
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#7 |
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Kiwi
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: NW Arkansas
Oddometer: 277
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I used about 8 hose clamps when I changed the rear spring on my 1150. I bought the spring from LE Suspension. I emailed Ed and described me and my wifes weights and the percentage of one up, two up, and two up plus luggage and he recommended a 20% stronger spring. It cost about $125 including shipping. I had it in a couple of days. Very pleased and no other affiliations.
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It's all for Jesus, CMA Faith Riders, Chapter 732 '01 BMW R1150GS |
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02-18-2013, 08:01 AM
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#8 | |
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A proud pragmatist.
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,004
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Quote:
![]() Plan B certainly would have been plywood but I'd rather clean UHMW chips out of my small shop than sawdust. Forstner bits....??? No chips really. ![]() I made a compressor for the front, then found out that it isn't really needed. Showa uses 2 retainer bolts on the front shock. Remove the first "lock" one then unscrew the second one...no more pressure on the spring. Mind you re-installing an aftermarket and compression could be required. Front shock should look like that: BTW....I think the bolts are Loctited, you want to deal with that first less you strip the Allen on the shaft: The hydraulic preloader, that's a bladder expanding when you crank the preload. Don't know where the oil goes but many have found them low on oil. Maybe came from the factory like that. Refills are easy with some warnings as not to loose the little ball/spring but no need to remove that knob and loose parts. ![]() http://www.r1150r.net/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9411 Better instructions there: http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...shock+adjuster What's really funny....I didn't really have to do any of that. I replaced my shocks with Ohlins. But some BMW guys were telling me that there was such a risk of the springs flying across the shop or even in my face that I had to do it.
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