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Old 02-18-2013, 07:28 PM   #73876
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
It must depend in the particular KLR you're comparing. The one I've ridden was a 2008. People always knocked those for being too street oriented, but in all the times my buddy and I went to the mesa on our bikes, we never came across a spot where my DR could go that his KLR could not, and his definitely had me beat on the road.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
no doubt; my brother-in-law's klr was older - 2002, mebbe? and, afaik, it was stock. and, as i mentioned, my 2000 dr650 has carb and exhaust mods.

doug s.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:57 PM   #73877
Hesaid
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Do I want to clean up my backside?

As it would turn out, I'm going to be doing some work on the backside of Shesaid's bike, several parts will need replaced. She has decided she wants the factory look, which is fine, but it offers the opportunity for me to take the factory parts from my bike, and put them on her's, while replacing mine with the backside cleanup kit from Procycle:
(NOTE: pic is a link, but you'll have to scroll down a bit for the kit info)


I have been thinking about this mod for a while, but hadn't made up my mind. Now, due to some recent events (Faceplant ), I could actually make this come out as a "free" upgrade, as the kit costs less than all new Suzuki parts.

Should I do it?

MV
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:09 PM   #73878
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
It was the Racetech (Thede/Parks) book that got me confused. I read it several times, figured I was good to go and then started reading it maybe a little too precisely. They use "suspension sag", "race sag", "static sag", "free sag", "free sag, top-out bumper" and "free sag, negative spring" as various measurements in their bible and I'm not really concerned with them all. Per the bible though, I'm pretty close (a little high on the free sag, a little low on the race/static sag), and it rides nice. I thought I might be able to dial it in just a little better, but not sure I can. I see now that some of the terms they use are interchangeable. I was fully geared up though, so the race sag would be slighly more geared up.

Per the Racetech Motorcycle Suspension Bible, Race Sag and Static Sag are the same measurement. Free Sag is what you're calling Static Sag.

The front though feels so good I haven't messed with it at all.
Confusing for sure! And with Lee Parks in the mix ... you can be sure half is BS! Early Thede essays were his alone. Not sure how Parks got in the mix
at Race Tech. Anyway, good luck sifting through it all.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:42 PM   #73879
trumposorousrex
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Location: Detroit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
A DR350 rear rim will work with minor changes. Anything else will require significant mods to make work.
Thanks, they seem hard to come by I've been looking. Anyone want to get rid of one? Would the rm wheel need machine work or just bearings?
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:43 PM   #73880
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesaid View Post
Do I want to clean up my backside?

As it would turn out, I'm going to be doing some work on the backside of Shesaid's bike, several parts will need replaced. She has decided she wants the factory look, which is fine, but it offers the opportunity for me to take the factory parts from my bike, and put them on her's, while replacing mine with the backside cleanup kit from Procycle:
(NOTE: pic is a link, but you'll have to scroll down a bit for the kit info)
...
I have been thinking about this mod for a while, but hadn't made up my mind. Now, due to some recent events (Faceplant ), I could actually make this come out as a "free" upgrade, as the kit costs less than all new Suzuki parts.

Should I do it?

MV
I think it looks a LOT better than stock.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:07 PM   #73881
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
my concern with oiling the unifilter would be cleaning it later. cleaning pleats is a pain in the arse. im going to switch to the modified stock filter with oiled foam which is nice and easy to service whenever i do the main air filter.
In reality cleaning the UNI is not a big deal. Just spray some cleaner on it, rinse it with water (from the inside out), repeat once if necessary, let it dry, and re-oil.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:22 PM   #73882
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
In reality cleaning the UNI is not a big deal. Just spray some cleaner on it, rinse it with water (from the inside out), repeat once if necessary, let it dry, and re-oil.

Regards,

Derek
air filter cleaner is even more difficult to find in Asia than air filter oil. what are some alternatives to cleaner that will do the same job but are more of a generic product?
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:29 PM   #73883
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
air filter cleaner is even more difficult to find in Asia than air filter oil. what are some alternatives to cleaner that will do the same job but are more of a generic product?
Grease-cutting dishwashing liquid works for me. I use DAWN.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:02 AM   #73884
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hesaid View Post
Do I want to clean up my backside?

As it would turn out, I'm going to be doing some work on the backside of Shesaid's bike, several parts will need replaced. She has decided she wants the factory look, which is fine, but it offers the opportunity for me to take the factory parts from my bike, and put them on her's, while replacing mine with the backside cleanup kit from Procycle:
(NOTE: pic is a link, but you'll have to scroll down a bit for the kit info)
I have been thinking about this mod for a while, but hadn't made up my mind. Now, due to some recent events (Faceplant ), I could actually make this come out as a "free" upgrade, as the kit costs less than all new Suzuki parts.

Should I do it?

MV
I did it. If you go ahead with it, I'd recommend center-punching and then drilling a 3rd hole for a bolt in the license tag, down at the bottom tip. My tag started tearing with just the 2 upper bolts.

I currently use just the flushmount tail/brake light from the Procycle kit, with an LED 1157 bulb that flashes 3x then goes solid. I also use the stock black lower fender piece, the stock license illuminator with a 194 LED bulb from www.superbrightLEDs.com, and a Procycle license-mount stashbox bolted to where the stock tag bracket and lower rub-nubby used to be. The black lower fender piece protects better from mud flinging up on my back. Mine is trimmed up a little though. It only protrudes beneath the tag by about .5". I also have some BRIGHT red 8" LED strips on either side of my fender.

I like the look and functionality of my current setup. My tail/brake light looks nice and neat, and it isn't likely to bust apart like the stocker did. I have a locking compartment for registration and my pressure gauge. I have side and rear red reflectors. My back doesn't get slathered in mud. My tail is seen better and uses less wattage than stock. My tag is fastened at all 4 corners.

I'd get just the light and a stashbox. Put a 3x flash LED 1157 bulb in the light. Put an LED 194 bulb in the tag-illumination housing. Add red LED strips on either side of the fender, either upper or lower piece.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:29 AM   #73885
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcamp View Post
Ok, I would imagine I'd be riding more on the road then off... Then again, that can change.

Its my first foray into enduros and offroading.


Regardless, I don't imagine this will happen within a year. But luckily there are a number of Suzuki and Kawi dealers near me so I will have ample opportunity to look!
The DR is pretty darn versatile and simpler. It's isn't known for being buzzy, burning oil, or overheating.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:40 AM   #73886
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumposorousrex View Post
Thanks, they seem hard to come by I've been looking. Anyone want to get rid of one? Would the rm wheel need machine work or just bearings?
I have both a DR350 and DR650 rear wheel set up for the 650. I have a more aggressive tire mounted on the 18" wheel and I run either depending on the ride.

As noted elsewhere in the thread, the DR350S/SE (street legal version) wheel will work, the DR350 off-road model does not have a cush hub and _might_ work with the right spacers but I think the S model wheel is a better choice for the 650. It just drops right in using your existing sprocket carrier.

The bearings are the same in the two. The brake rotor is not. You'll need a DR650 rotor for the DR350 wheel. Also, the 18" 350 rim is more narrow and I'm running a 120/90 on mine.

Jim Randall

thump! screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 06:58 AM
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:44 AM   #73887
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Grease-cutting dishwashing liquid works for me. I use DAWN.
Thats what I use on my foam uni.....works great for me as well
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:49 AM   #73888
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcamp View Post
Ok, I would imagine I'd be riding more on the road then off... Then again, that can change.
I too have owned both. I really like my DR and it fits my needs better (it's more off-pavement oriented) but I think the KLR is a better choice as a street bike. The 2007 and newer KLRs have a pretty nice faring, are smoother and have better suspension then the earlier models.

thump! screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 07:01 AM
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:52 AM   #73889
Mercenary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
In reality cleaning the UNI is not a big deal. Just spray some cleaner on it, rinse it with water (from the inside out), repeat once if necessary, let it dry, and re-oil.

Regards,

Derek
Its the re-oiling part that I have problems with. Do you saturate the filter with oil or just give it a light film?
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:03 AM   #73890
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I run either depending on the ride and have a more aggressive tire mounted on my 18" wheel.

The DR350S/SE wheel will work, the DR350 off road model does not have a cush hub and _might_ work but I think the S model wheel is a better choice for the 650.

The bearings are the same. The brake rotor is not. You'll need a DR650 rotor for the DR350 wheel. Also, the 18" 350 wheel is more narrow and I'm running a 120/90 on mine.

Jim Randall
^^what he said^^

I have both also. The 650 has a 2.50 rim and the 350 has a 2.15. (width) and the 350 has a rimlock if memory serves me. I'll have to go out in the garage and look. I put a rimlock on the 650 wheel as well.

I run knobbies most of the time, but I have a Bridgestone Trailwing that came off a new DRZ 400 on the 18" right now, from a trip I took in Sept.

I do recall having fittment issues with the 650 rotor on the 350 hub but can;t remember what I did. The bolts aren't the same and I ended up doing something different. Like flipping the rotor over or something. really can't remeber, but it was solveable maybe someone can remember what they did.

I was lucky to get my 350 wheel with an axle, chain adjusters, sprocket hub and cushions and a new 41 tooth sprocket for $75.
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