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02-17-2013, 10:42 AM
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#31 |
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Wiley Wanderer
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: In the mountains
Oddometer: 395
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This sounds good, count me in...
Hope the rest of your prep goes well and we see you en route soon.. ![]() Are you planning on filming it? Subscribed Cheers Potski
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Show us your best ever Transalp photos/videos here and Potski Films here & here and Potski Photos "Don't wait for your ship to come in, swim out and meet the bloody thing" Barry Sheen
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02-17-2013, 09:20 PM
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#32 |
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SWA Chicken Hauler
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Great looking trip....
I've been to some of those areas but never on a bike. I'm in, this is a trip I would like to do.
Ride safe and keep us posted..
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Anywhere is home |
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02-18-2013, 07:37 PM
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#33 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: New York
Oddometer: 45
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Bruised knuckles and cussin'
So I started work on the bike over the last few days,
It would have been fully completed but I managed to round the bolts of the rear disc and have no clue how to remove them now, without access to a grinder, drill or something to cut into the bolt so at the minute i'm at a bit of a loss
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02-18-2013, 07:55 PM
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#34 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: May 2012
Location: New England
Oddometer: 164
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Post a close-up shot of what you're dealing with and I'm sure the collective here can help.
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02-19-2013, 06:07 AM
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#35 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: New York
Oddometer: 45
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02-19-2013, 06:11 AM
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#36 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: New York
Oddometer: 45
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Hey Potski,
I am filming it, everything from the prep, video diary and the on the road, I want to put together a little web episode series at the end of the trip. At first I didn't like talking to the camera but now as I am doing all of this on my own its become a much needed outlet to talk about. |
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02-19-2013, 11:19 AM
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#37 |
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I,m in if we go fast
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Peoria, AZ
Oddometer: 1,438
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Nut
Is there not a nut in the other side? I know on the dirt bike wheels there is but with these which look like a cast they may be threaded direct into the casting. Best way I can think of if to insert an Allen wrench and spot weld it to the bike head. Unthread it and replace with new.
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02-19-2013, 11:21 AM
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#38 |
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I,m in if we go fast
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Peoria, AZ
Oddometer: 1,438
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Nut
Is there not a nut in the other side? I know on the dirt bike wheels there is but with these which look like a cast they may be threaded direct into the casting. Best way I can think of if to insert an Allen wrench and spot weld it to the bolt head. Unthread it and replace with new.
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02-19-2013, 12:35 PM
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#39 | |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: New York
Oddometer: 45
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That sounds very logical, just need to someone with a spot welder...
Thank mate, much appreciated Quote:
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02-19-2013, 12:44 PM
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#40 |
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after a good ride
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Burbank CA
Oddometer: 14,333
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before you weld, try to restore the hex hole by pounding it with a small ball peen hammer. heat up the bolt heads and surrounding areas, then try to loosen it. good chance a red loctite was used to install to bolts. good luck.
wish you the best on your journey. |
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02-19-2013, 12:49 PM
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#41 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Bowden Alberta, Buguruslan Russia
Oddometer: 586
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An impact driver might help, still might have to heat and peen but they will loosen some pretty stuck bolts.
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02-19-2013, 01:03 PM
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#42 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: New York
Oddometer: 45
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Next challenge - Rotapax
My fuel range is limited on the Scram and I want to fit two x 2 gallon Rotapax onto the bike.
I'd love to get your ideas on the best place to mount them, I have the Metal Mule Panniers and Rear Rack but not the top box ![]() ![]() Thanks in advance boys and girls ![]() ![]() ![]()
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02-19-2013, 02:37 PM
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#43 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: May 2012
Location: New England
Oddometer: 164
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Quote:
- The other recommendation of peening the head back into place to grip the Allen wrench can also work in some instances. Unfortunately the comment about these being set with some form of Loctite is probably also correct which means they are definitely going to need heat. And that brings up another problem - enough heat to loosen bolt, but not so much that you cause damage to the bearings. I would suggest you either remove the bearings or be very, very cautious when applying any heat. - Another option would be drilling a hole down the center of the bolt and then using an "easy out". Though my experience has been this is rarely easy and sometime it still won't come out. If you do go down this path drilling the hole large enough and deep enough to get enough grip is critical. But missing on the size or location will ruin the threads in the hub and you can be worse off than when you started. - If you have a Dremel with a thin fiber cutting wheel and a steady hand you may also be able cut a slot in the top of the head large enough to get a decent sized screw driver in there. Again, simple enough to describe, a lot tougher to do. I guess you have to assess your ability and make a call. As for the other ones that aren't stripped yet, I would suggest you invest in an inexpensive impact driver and a high-quality set of bits. Good luck and keep us posted on how you make out. sprouty115 screwed with this post 02-20-2013 at 07:46 AM |
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02-20-2013, 12:36 AM
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#44 | |
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865+652
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Goulburn, Australia
Oddometer: 739
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Quote:
Oh and mine (current model) has Torx heads...maybe the allen heads were soft
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02-20-2013, 01:01 AM
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#45 |
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www.ridingacross.com
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Warsaw
Oddometer: 177
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Subscribed!!
![]() Good luck Paul!!! What brand is your windshield?
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