BMW r90/6 cafe racer build - Page 6

Hearse · 02-18-2013, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonnyCash

Yes, you need the shoulder on the axle, otherwise the wheel will be free to un-center itself in the forks. and the bearings wont be pre-loaded. I can't imagine how it is that both of your sliders have the small hole. Do you have two right side sliders? I'm confused.

Hey JC thanks for the reply mate

Yea I thought that I needed that larger part and it was used as a spacer....

Well the guy I bought the slide off suggested I only get the right side slider which I thought was legit because the left side has a caliper etc....so I got him to send me a RH slider. But this RH slider only has a small hole unlike the stock/current RH slider (which is being replaved) on the bike currently which has a big hole

Does the r90s have the big hole on the LH side as opposed to RH side??? Or could It be he sent me a LH side slider as opposed to the required RH side slider?

disston · 02-18-2013, 05:54 AM

It sounds like you have received another left hand slider which in it's current state won't help you convert a single disk to dual disk Ate. It should be evident that all the parts are needed. There is little room for modification. If you wanted to add the pads and other parts to a RH slider to make it work as an Ate carrier is one thing. Not easy. But what has been done on occasion is to convert a LH slider to work on the right side. It's still not in the class of Shade Tree mechanic but it's a lot easier than the other way around.

In your case I think you are due some money back or the correct part which you thought you were buying but I have included a thread in case the conversion is something you wish to investigate.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=738951

Charlie

Hearse · 02-18-2013, 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disston

It sounds like you have received another left hand slider which in it's current state won't help you convert a single disk to dual disk Ate. It should be evident that all the parts are needed. There is little room for modification. If you wanted to add the pads and other parts to a RH slider to make it work as an Ate carrier is one thing. Not easy. But what has been done on occasion is to convert a LH slider to work on the right side. It's still not in the class of Shade Tree mechanic but it's a lot easier than the other way around.

In your case I think you are due some money back or the correct part which you thought you were buying but I have included a thread in case the conversion is something you wish to investigate.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=738951

Charlie

Yep looking at it again I got two left legs :( far from ideal!

I'll call the guy back and get him to send me the correct one!

disston · 02-18-2013, 06:28 AM

He probably mailed the wrong one by mistake?

Hearse · 02-18-2013, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disston

He probably mailed the wrong one by mistake?

Yea looks that way mate, bugger

How do I tell the difference in LH and RH brake callipers? In case he sent me the wrong calliper as well

disston · 02-18-2013, 08:19 AM

There is a thread here just recently where one of the proficient mechanics found there was a difference in a pair of Ate calipers. His is apparently the only instance of this known to happen. I can't explain it. So I will now give you the stock answer we have used for so many years. Just use your eyes and report if this looks like it has problems when you do this, OK?

The calipers are two sizes. A single disk set up should have a 38mm caliper and said caliper is not marked with the number. A dual caliper set up should have two (2) 40mm calipers and they should be marked with the number 40 on the outside round portion of the caliper. This is visible with them mounted on the bike. Very few exceptions to this note, if any.

How ever since the bikes are now what we call vintage many times the OEM equipment has been moved around. You can even occasionally see a dual set up with one of each. Since you are building your own you could use 40 or 38 calipers I suppose.

The calipers are movable from side to side. There are two (2) holes in each caliper. One for the brake line, on the bottom. And one for the bleeder screw on top. Swap this function to make caliper work on what ever side you like.

Th problem another inmate had was the taper at the bottom of one of these holes did not accept the bleeder screw so he couldn't move a left caliper to the right side. He fixed it. But it is also the only time any body remembers hearing this problem I think.

Hearse · 02-18-2013, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disston

There is a thread here just recently where one of the proficient mechanics found there was a difference in a pair of Ate calipers. His is apparently the only instance of this known to happen. I can't explain it. So I will now give you the stock answer we have used for so many years. Just use your eyes and report if this looks like it has problems when you do this, OK?

The calipers are two sizes. A single disk set up should have a 38mm caliper and said caliper is not marked with the number. A dual caliper set up should have two (2) 40mm calipers and they should be marked with the number 40 on the outside round portion of the caliper. This is visible with them mounted on the bike. Very few exceptions to this note, if any.

How ever since the bikes are now what we call vintage many times the OEM equipment has been moved around. You can even occasionally see a dual set up with one of each. Since you are building your own you could use 40 or 38 calipers I suppose.

The calipers are movable from side to side. There are two (2) holes in each caliper. One for the brake line, on the bottom. And one for the bleeder screw on top. Swap this function to make caliper work on what ever side you like.

Th problem another inmate had was the taper at the bottom of one of these holes did not accept the bleeder screw so he couldn't move a left caliper to the right side. He fixed it. But it is also the only time any body remembers hearing this problem I think.

ah excellent!!

It's half weird because I had a 40mm fitted stock to my r90/6 and I got another 40mm delivered - and its interchangable as you said above, so YEW! Two 40mm callipers which will work great

It's only 0716 this morning so I'll call the guy a bit later to get my different leg sent down :-)

Hearse · 02-18-2013, 12:50 PM

got my powder coating back guys...I am 'happy' in the sense that it looks great and I know it will last....but there were some things that didn't make me 100% happy - before I got it done I asked the normal stuff, couple of them being "please mask off bearing housing's and the ID plate etc"

Whole frame...

Stainless bolts - I have a whole SS kit for the bike. Using copper grease as an anti seazing agent

bearing housings with PC in them :( would i just scrape the PC out?

...he was close with the ID plate, just not quite there...heh. I'll just cut around the edge of the plate and peal the PC off

When i get my lower fork slider this week - I will hopefully be able to build the bike in to a roller this weekend/week ahead. YEW!

Fast Idle · 02-18-2013, 05:24 PM

Powder can be really tough. If it doesn't come out easy I would mask it off really, really good, multiple layers, including a tarp or something over the whole bike frame ( because I have accidents from time to time) and use paint stripper to soften it. That will make the scraping easier and prevent damage to any machined surface. Should go fairly quick that way. Wipe away any residual stripper with paper towels and water wash a couple times with a bucket & rag. Pull the mask as soon as your done That's for the steering head. You'll just have to try your luck on the ID plate. Looks like they blasted part of it. I'm in the middle of my own R90/6 rebuild. A complete including engine and transmission overhaul. More stock than cafe though.

Great thread!

Hearse · 02-18-2013, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast Idle

Powder can be really tough. If it doesn't come out easy I would mask it off really, really good, multiple layers, including a tarp or something over the whole bike frame ( because I have accidents from time to time) and use paint stripper to soften it. That will make the scraping easier and prevent damage to any machined surface. Should go fairly quick that way. Wipe away any residual stripper with paper towels and water wash a couple times with a bucket & rag. Pull the mask as soon as your done That's for the steering head. You'll just have to try your luck on the ID plate. Looks like they blasted part of it. I'm in the middle of my own R90/6 rebuild. A complete including engine and transmission overhaul. More stock than cafe though.

Great thread!

Hey Fast

Thanks for the hints mate.

Yea i will have to look in to it, see how we go in getting that crap off...pretty pissed with it eh.

Anywho...

Mate good luck with your build. I am loving every minute of my build! So much fun. I figured if in the near future my engine goes to shit Ill get one of those upgrade packages from motobins to make it 1000cc :) :)

.... but ill cross that road when i get to it.

Cheers,

Warren

Fast Idle · 02-19-2013, 07:54 AM

For sure, building the bike is great! My transmission is finished. Working on the engine now. She was a little ruff when I brought her home. It's fun to follow builds like yours and others. Gives me lots of ideas for my bike!

Hearse · 02-24-2013, 12:36 PM

Hey guys!

So I did a couple cool things this weekend...

First I re-spoked my wheel with brand new SS spokes

The complete wheel fitted with second disc AND my brand new Avon RoadRiders - SUCH a mint set of tyres

Then I started to re-assemble my rear end, rebuild the swing arm with all new bearings/seals/bushes and mounted it to the frame, then rebuilt the rear wheel with all new bearings/seals etc and mounted that too, with my brand new Hagon Shocks

THEN - get on to this, I did my stripes on my tank/seat. They are 2.5 inches wide total with all three stripes, I reckon they look perfect? Just have to do the front of my tank, need to trip the decals to get them under the fuel cap

Just need to finish my tank decals, and get my front end rebuilt this week/weekend to have it in a roller. So excited boys.

brothermosley · 02-24-2013, 06:32 PM

Very sharp! Keep it coming

kaput13 · 02-25-2013, 02:57 PM

Your day glow boxer is looking good Hearse. Can't wait to see the entire bike. Did you give up on the snazzy fuse and wire connector gizmo?

Travmoto · 02-25-2013, 05:06 PM

This is an awesome thread, loving your bike mate especially the colour!

I'm just hanging to get my wedding/honeymoon out of the way so I can do something with my r100..... this build is good inspiration

02-18-2013, 05:54 AM	#77
disston ShadeTreeExpert Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Silver Spring, Md Oddometer: 4,992	It sounds like you have received another left hand slider which in it's current state won't help you convert a single disk to dual disk Ate. It should be evident that all the parts are needed. There is little room for modification. If you wanted to add the pads and other parts to a RH slider to make it work as an Ate carrier is one thing. Not easy. But what has been done on occasion is to convert a LH slider to work on the right side. It's still not in the class of Shade Tree mechanic but it's a lot easier than the other way around. In your case I think you are due some money back or the correct part which you thought you were buying but I have included a thread in case the conversion is something you wish to investigate. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=738951 Charlie __________________ Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein

02-18-2013, 06:28 AM	#79
disston ShadeTreeExpert Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Silver Spring, Md Oddometer: 4,992	He probably mailed the wrong one by mistake? __________________ Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein

02-18-2013, 08:19 AM	#81
disston ShadeTreeExpert Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Silver Spring, Md Oddometer: 4,992	There is a thread here just recently where one of the proficient mechanics found there was a difference in a pair of Ate calipers. His is apparently the only instance of this known to happen. I can't explain it. So I will now give you the stock answer we have used for so many years. Just use your eyes and report if this looks like it has problems when you do this, OK? The calipers are two sizes. A single disk set up should have a 38mm caliper and said caliper is not marked with the number. A dual caliper set up should have two (2) 40mm calipers and they should be marked with the number 40 on the outside round portion of the caliper. This is visible with them mounted on the bike. Very few exceptions to this note, if any. How ever since the bikes are now what we call vintage many times the OEM equipment has been moved around. You can even occasionally see a dual set up with one of each. Since you are building your own you could use 40 or 38 calipers I suppose. The calipers are movable from side to side. There are two (2) holes in each caliper. One for the brake line, on the bottom. And one for the bleeder screw on top. Swap this function to make caliper work on what ever side you like. Th problem another inmate had was the taper at the bottom of one of these holes did not accept the bleeder screw so he couldn't move a left caliper to the right side. He fixed it. But it is also the only time any body remembers hearing this problem I think. __________________ Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein

02-18-2013, 12:50 PM	#83
Hearse ^OP Project n'gagi Joined: Nov 2012 Location: sydney Oddometer: 127	powder coating - semi happy got my powder coating back guys...I am 'happy' in the sense that it looks great and I know it will last....but there were some things that didn't make me 100% happy - before I got it done I asked the normal stuff, couple of them being "please mask off bearing housing's and the ID plate etc" Whole frame... Stainless bolts - I have a whole SS kit for the bike. Using copper grease as an anti seazing agent bearing housings with PC in them :( would i just scrape the PC out? ...he was close with the ID plate, just not quite there...heh. I'll just cut around the edge of the plate and peal the PC off When i get my lower fork slider this week - I will hopefully be able to build the bike in to a roller this weekend/week ahead. YEW! __________________ Project n'gagi begins 07-11-2012 -- Get involved!! 2006 Honda VTR1000f 1975 BMW R90/6

02-18-2013, 05:24 PM	#84
Fast Idle Since the Sixties Joined: Nov 2012 Location: The Last Frontier Oddometer: 72	Powder can be really tough. If it doesn't come out easy I would mask it off really, really good, multiple layers, including a tarp or something over the whole bike frame ( because I have accidents from time to time) and use paint stripper to soften it. That will make the scraping easier and prevent damage to any machined surface. Should go fairly quick that way. Wipe away any residual stripper with paper towels and water wash a couple times with a bucket & rag. Pull the mask as soon as your done That's for the steering head. You'll just have to try your luck on the ID plate. Looks like they blasted part of it. I'm in the middle of my own R90/6 rebuild. A complete including engine and transmission overhaul. More stock than cafe though. Great thread! __________________ Riding as much as my old frame will allow!

02-19-2013, 07:54 AM	#86
Fast Idle Since the Sixties Joined: Nov 2012 Location: The Last Frontier Oddometer: 72	For sure, building the bike is great! My transmission is finished. Working on the engine now. She was a little ruff when I brought her home. It's fun to follow builds like yours and others. Gives me lots of ideas for my bike! __________________ Riding as much as my old frame will allow!

02-24-2013, 12:36 PM	#87
Hearse ^OP Project n'gagi Joined: Nov 2012 Location: sydney Oddometer: 127	Hey guys! So I did a couple cool things this weekend... First I re-spoked my wheel with brand new SS spokes The complete wheel fitted with second disc AND my brand new Avon RoadRiders - SUCH a mint set of tyres Then I started to re-assemble my rear end, rebuild the swing arm with all new bearings/seals/bushes and mounted it to the frame, then rebuilt the rear wheel with all new bearings/seals etc and mounted that too, with my brand new Hagon Shocks THEN - get on to this, I did my stripes on my tank/seat. They are 2.5 inches wide total with all three stripes, I reckon they look perfect? Just have to do the front of my tank, need to trip the decals to get them under the fuel cap Just need to finish my tank decals, and get my front end rebuilt this week/weekend to have it in a roller. So excited boys. __________________ Project n'gagi begins 07-11-2012 -- Get involved!! 2006 Honda VTR1000f 1975 BMW R90/6

02-24-2013, 06:32 PM	#88
brothermosley Motorcycle Operator Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Medford, MA Oddometer: 550	Very sharp! Keep it coming __________________ 2005 R1200GS

02-25-2013, 02:57 PM	#89
kaput13 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2010 Location: South Florida Oddometer: 214	Your day glow boxer is looking good Hearse. Can't wait to see the entire bike. Did you give up on the snazzy fuse and wire connector gizmo?

02-25-2013, 05:06 PM	#90
Travmoto almost there... Joined: Nov 2009 Location: QLD, Terra Australis Oddometer: 202	This is an awesome thread, loving your bike mate especially the colour! I'm just hanging to get my wedding/honeymoon out of the way so I can do something with my r100..... this build is good inspiration

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