the DR650 thread

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by jessepitt

It has the same forks as the RMX as well, as it is a '98. They are great forks and are fully adjustable, they seem like a no brainer mod to me as they fit the stock DR650 triple.

Did the front RMX and DR650 wheel interchange?

I had a '97 RMX and had Works Enduro Rider (WER) dial them for me. They were the BEST forks I ever owned. Been trying to get near that action outta my KTM's ever since.

Would be nice if the front wheels swappes, so I can have the Trailwings on one set and full knobs on the other.

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by Tex76

Hey guys, my DR is having a hard time cranking when its cold. 5 or 6 times of holding down the starter for 2-3 seconds before it turns over. Time for a new battery or will a few days on a tender fix this? Its happening every cold morning.

Not sure what "cold" is in Plano, but my DR650 fired right up yesterday at 20 degrees. I've found that when the battery is on it's last legs, it will only start cold, right after you take it off the tender. Check the fluids in the battery. Had a time that it acted dead' but adding fluid saved the ride.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Mercenary

Its the re-oiling part that I have problems with. Do you saturate the filter with oil or just give it a light film?

No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
After removing filter ... clean air box well.

2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah.

[disconnected]

oh... and by the way, I just ordered a new rear spring and front springs from Procycle. I also ordered a few other tidbits.

[shaddix]

I don't understand how air can get under the filter? I never use any grease because that little plastic piece is pressing down with a lot of force onto the side of the air box

[Rusty Rocket]

took my DR out today just to shake out the cobwebs




it was 40 degrees and about to rain so I only went 32 miles. Playing the Nutmeg State Tag-o-rama




Felt good to get out and ride. First ride, ('cept for around the block occasionally to keep the carb fresh) since Thanksgiving.

[dljocky]

Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by dljocky

Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?

Straps for the tank bag, taped up w/ duct tape. Kind of KLR ish. Plus the one over the seat.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
After removing filter ... clean air box well.

2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah.

I use mineral turpentine, or turps, on Uni Filter's recommendation for cleaning, and no soap or water. Just clean with 'turps' and allow to air dry. There will be some residual oil left in the filter, so you don't have to add as much to reoil.

[rpet]

Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by rpet

Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?

Thanks for the nice words DL jockey.

Seat Concepts Tall.

Yes, it's the very first one that they built. I pestered the hell outta them to get it in time for my Skyline Drive, Blue Ridge Parkway ride last Sept. He gave me a wicked deal for making him get around to it. Love the thing.

Seat makes the bike look mean. The old blue/yellow was ugly. So were the yellow fork boots. It looks a lot better from far away.

There is still the purple frame and the knee marks where the paint is rubbed off the tank. Same with the boot wear on the frame.

[Chill]

Originally Posted by dljocky

Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?

It's a cow.

[Chill]

I enquired about brake upgrades a few weeks ago and got some good advice here. Thanks.

Anyhoo, I sorted them last weekend. Was a bit nervous as I've only ever done new pads before, never fluid or bleeding. I swapped the brake lines for braided Galfer lines, new EBC pads and new fluid. I was looking for a bit more bite to the brakes and they've turned out better than expected. I'm chuffed with the results and chuffed I did it myself, I love working on this bike. Anyway, I know a lot of people only ever do the braided front line but I'm glad I did the rear too. I use it a lot commuting, and the feel is much better now. Managed to strip the phillips head out of one of the front master cylinder screws but drilled it out and put some stainless M4's in there, seems ok, no leaks.

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by Chill

I enquired about brake upgrades a few weeks ago and got some good advice here. Thanks.

Anyhoo, I sorted them last weekend. Was a bit nervous as I've only ever done new pads before, never fluid or bleeding. I swapped the brake lines for braided Galfer lines, new EBC pads and new fluid. I was looking for a bit more bite to the brakes and they've turned out better than expected. I'm chuffed with the results and chuffed I did it myself, I love working on this bike. Anyway, I know a lot of people only ever do the braided front line but I'm glad I did the rear too. I use it a lot commuting, and the feel is much better now. Managed to strip the phillips head out of one of the front master cylinder screws but drilled it out and put some stainless M4's in there, seems ok, no leaks.

A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by Rob.G

A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob

Aren't they called "Cheesehead"? Seems to be what they're made of, anyway. Just checked - they are not. "A cheese head screw is one with a cylindrical head."

Anyone tried this alternator from RMStator? At $160, it seems like a good deal.