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Old 02-19-2013, 06:54 AM   #73876
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
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Let me help confuse things

Quote:
Originally Posted by trumposorousrex View Post
Thanks Guys. I will keep searching for the dr350 wheel. I was hoping to pick up a donor RM bike and use the front end and both wheels. I have found more than a few complete bikes that need top ends for under $500. Anyway thanks for the help.

Matt

This is the same thought I had. I have a DR350 and am useing an RMX swingarm with the stock DR350 (dirt model) wheel. The spacers are just cut down a hair as the RMX swinger is narrower. I think that if the stock DR350 rim can be made to work with the RMX arm then the RMX wheel should be able to work on the DR650. Also, I think that if you are using the DR350 wheel as your dirt wheel and always run a knobby on it the cush drive wont be needed, the knobs will buffer the trans on road. My DR350 is a plated dirt model with no cush and it seems fine on the street but it doesn't spend much time there. It has the same forks as the RMX as well, as it is a '98. They are great forks and are fully adjustable, they seem like a no brainer mod to me as they fit the stock DR650 triple.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:34 AM   #73877
trumposorousrex
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Detroit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
This is the same thought I had. I have a DR350 and am useing an RMX swingarm with the stock DR350 (dirt model) wheel. The spacers are just cut down a hair as the RMX swinger is narrower. I think that if the stock DR350 rim can be made to work with the RMX arm then the RMX wheel should be able to work on the DR650. Also, I think that if you are using the DR350 wheel as your dirt wheel and always run a knobby on it the cush drive wont be needed, the knobs will buffer the trans on road. My DR350 is a plated dirt model with no cush and it seems fine on the street but it doesn't spend much time there. It has the same forks as the RMX as well, as it is a '98. They are great forks and are fully adjustable, they seem like a no brainer mod to me as they fit the stock DR650 triple.
Thats fine if it just needs spacers. I have a lathe to make spacers. I don't care about the cush hub like you said it will only be for my dirt/ ice tires. I might just get a complete bike for the front end and see If I can make the rear wheel work too.

Thanks
Matt
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:46 AM   #73878
Tex76
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Location: Plano, Texas
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Hey guys, my DR is having a hard time cranking when its cold. 5 or 6 times of holding down the starter for 2-3 seconds before it turns over. Time for a new battery or will a few days on a tender fix this? Its happening every cold morning.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:58 AM   #73879
VooDooDaddy
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: SW Iowa
Oddometer: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
...what are some alternatives to cleaner that will do the same job but are more of a generic product?
I use Diesel fuel to clean my air filter. The oil/dirt in the filter dissolves immediately. I keep a half gallon bottle of Diesel in my garage for cleaning the air filter and deep cleaning the drive chain. When I am done with the dirty Diesel, I dump it in the same 5 gallon jug I use to store used motor oil. And then I dispose of the whole mess by pouring it down the kitchen drain.

(just kidding) Every 3-4 months I take the 5 gallon jug to my nearest service station to be recycled.

Once the filter is cleaned really well with Diesel (literally takes 30 seconds), then I give it a quick wash with a solution of dish washing liquid and H20. Then I let it dry overnight, and re-oil and re-install. And no, the Diesel does not harm the filter media.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:34 AM   #73880
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey guys, my DR is having a hard time cranking when its cold. 5 or 6 times of holding down the starter for 2-3 seconds before it turns over. Time for a new battery or will a few days on a tender fix this? Its happening every cold morning.
Might be time for a new battery. A tender will give it a bit more juice when you go to start it, but since it's just a trickle charger and doesn't have a jump-start mode, it'll only do so much.

BTW, I do NOT recommend the fancy new lithium-ion jobs. I have one on my FZ1 and it won't start in super cold weather without using a tender just to keep the damn thing warm.

Rob
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:21 AM   #73881
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
It has the same forks as the RMX as well, as it is a '98. They are great forks and are fully adjustable, they seem like a no brainer mod to me as they fit the stock DR650 triple.
Did the front RMX and DR650 wheel interchange?

I had a '97 RMX and had Works Enduro Rider (WER) dial them for me. They were the BEST forks I ever owned. Been trying to get near that action outta my KTM's ever since.

Would be nice if the front wheels swappes, so I can have the Trailwings on one set and full knobs on the other.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:25 AM   #73882
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey guys, my DR is having a hard time cranking when its cold. 5 or 6 times of holding down the starter for 2-3 seconds before it turns over. Time for a new battery or will a few days on a tender fix this? Its happening every cold morning.

Not sure what "cold" is in Plano, but my DR650 fired right up yesterday at 20 degrees. I've found that when the battery is on it's last legs, it will only start cold, right after you take it off the tender. Check the fluids in the battery. Had a time that it acted dead' but adding fluid saved the ride.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:16 AM   #73883
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercenary View Post
Its the re-oiling part that I have problems with. Do you saturate the filter with oil or just give it a light film?
No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
After removing filter ... clean air box well.

2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:05 PM   #73884
disconnected
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Location: Pittsburgh, South Hills
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oh... and by the way, I just ordered a new rear spring and front springs from Procycle. I also ordered a few other tidbits.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:13 PM   #73885
shaddix
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I don't understand how air can get under the filter? I never use any grease because that little plastic piece is pressing down with a lot of force onto the side of the air box
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:54 PM   #73886
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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took my DR out today just to shake out the cobwebs




it was 40 degrees and about to rain so I only went 32 miles. Playing the Nutmeg State Tag-o-rama




Felt good to get out and ride. First ride, ('cept for around the block occasionally to keep the carb fresh) since Thanksgiving.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:35 PM   #73887
dljocky
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Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:02 PM   #73888
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?
Straps for the tank bag, taped up w/ duct tape. Kind of KLR ish. Plus the one over the seat.
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on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers

Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 07:47 PM
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:34 PM   #73889
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
After removing filter ... clean air box well.

2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah.
I use mineral turpentine, or turps, on Uni Filter's recommendation for cleaning, and no soap or water. Just clean with 'turps' and allow to air dry. There will be some residual oil left in the filter, so you don't have to add as much to reoil.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:53 PM   #73890
rpet
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Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?
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