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Old 02-10-2013, 05:20 AM   #46
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,125
Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
I think I found a pix that shows me the proper way to run that left front caliper flex line. In case I (or anyone else) ever does this again and wonders, I'll put up a revised shot...



Now off to think about wiring for a while. roy
That is pretty much how I ran mine and how I believe they were run from the factory. You'll want to check your clearances with the tank using that "P" clamp, though. I believe the original did not stick out so far.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:36 PM   #47
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Making a little progress...

.....slowly. And I've actually been trying, it's just that re-wiring is slow work, and the way I'm doing it is even slower. I can't seem to do much with the original wiring diagrams unless I redraw them so I'm sure I understand. Plus, I'm changing a few things, even from the way I had it before, not to mention the new wiring harness, and replacing all the molex connectors. When I get all done and know everything is right, if anyone wants a cc of my wiring dia's, just pm me. So here's the new shinier headlight bucket, all new molex connectors, and they all latch now (thanks mostly to Greg Bender).



The 5 terminal relay will run the lights Hi and Lo, and the smaller one will run the LED running lights I'm thinking I'll mount on the crashbars. Greg had a good idea, to run a new wire thru the main harness, changing the starter relay to a 5 terminal, and running the light relay coils off the NC contacts of the starter relay. That way they're on with the ignition switch, but off whenever the starter relay is energized. I have had some interesting times with the Molex connector pins. The male pins are no problem, the tool(s) I bought remove them just fine and they can be reinstalled in the new connectors no problem. The female pins are another story.



Not a very good picture, but if you look closely at the top third of this teminal, you can almost see that the tool bent the latching tab almost double when I took it out of the old connector. This happened to nearly every female contact I tried to remove. Luckily they're not that hard to replace with new contacts, and I have plenty as a result of trying to buy latching connectors that weren't really latching. Not sure what I should be doing different, and at this point, I'm fairly happy to just cut the old ones off and replace them anew. I think I bought three different Molex pin installing tools, and none of them really worked well for the females....Of course, I broke one last summer, so I don't remember if it worked any better. The only remaining molex I need to deal with is on the end of the main wiring harness, and it needs replacing because (big surprise) it isn't the proper latching connector. Once I do that, I'm ready to start installing the main harness. There will need to be a fair amount of custom connections at the back due to the 5 terminal starter relay, the non std fuse box (not sure what bike it came from, but I got it at my friendly Japanese MC junkyard). And the rear brake hyperlights. Wiring is slow, not very exciting in pix, but it's pretty important to get it right with good solid connections, good gnds to the frame, and hopefully no abused insulation in any of the tight spaces. More when I have more to ask. roy
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:43 PM   #48
JonnyCash
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What is that relay looking thing at the 2 o'clock position in your headlight bucket? I don't have that in mine.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:43 AM   #49
flemsmith OP
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Relays...

It's for the LED running lights I'm gonna mount on the crashbars. I make sure I have extra lights on all my bikes, rear brake flashing hyperlights, and front running lights.. Lately I've been using those 10W LED running lights; kinda pricey, but they definitely help make you visible. I'm not so concerned with lighting up the road on this bike as I am with making sure other folks see me before they turn in front of me. At less than an amp draw each, they may not really need a relay, but this way I can run battery power directly to them thru the relay rather than picking up 12v someplace that might not like being loaded down. I'm a little unsure how much to trust the alternator output on this bike. I'll also probably use the same relay output to run a voltmeter; makes me feel more comfy seeing the voltage I expect rather than wondering what's going on in the electrics. roy
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:54 AM   #50
waylongway
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It was a little pricey but went with all new charging system for peace of mind. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/pro...duc-stator.htm Not looking forward to this harness crap ...All info is good
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waylongway screwed with this post 02-17-2013 at 03:25 PM
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #51
JonnyCash
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Not that it couldn't be improved upon, but the charging system on these Guzzis is the same as on my R100/5. Really, exactly the same, believe it or not. I have lived with that for almost twenty years, and NEVER had any problems with it. You've done a very nice job on this project, and I look forward to seeing it completed.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:23 PM   #52
flemsmith OP
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Need Help!

OK, here's one place I definitely need some feedback. Background if you haven't been following along (skip to pix if you have) The main harness connector to the headlight I could not find with positive latches that kept it from coming disconnected; (my original wiring harness had been pretty butchered, which included the 15 pin main harness connector). I had at one time RTV'd it to the headlamp bucket, and although ugly, that seemed to work, but now with all new parts I'm trying to do things right. The first picture shows a left turn, the harness stretched to the max, the second the opposite. I need some input on how best to orient, run, strain relief or not, the harness. (While you're at it, I'd appreciate any comments on whether the throttle cables should be going thru the frame hole with the grommet like I now have it.) That's the way it was when I took it apart, and it seems like it could handle turns ok that way....


The P clamp is not connected, just something I was thinking about...
OK, so now in a right turn, you can see the harness wanting to bend outward from the frame...


My first thought is to use the Pclamp to keep it close to the frame where it will be under the gas tank, and to tighten the Pclamp on the cable where a left turn has enough cable room not to try to pull the connector apart, and in the right turn situation, the harness will be clamped close enough to the frame that it doesn't want to fray on the underside of the gas tank. Not sure if I need to do any more strain relief type stuff on the back of the headlamp, for now I think not. I never found exactly the right female 15 pin Molex connector, even though I ordered a number, so I used one that had small metal dimples inside to give a little extra friction, and drilled shallow matching relief divots in the male version. Works pretty well, but I don't want to push my luck with more pull-apart strain. It won't matter if it is strained in the push together position (right turn). Seems like a trivial thing to need help on, but that's pretty normal for me. Once I'm comfy with this, I'm ready to start wiring up the back end of the harness. That shouldn't take too long compared to the last coupla weeks. Thanks in advance if you have any input for me. roy
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:12 PM   #53
JonnyCash
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You definitely don't want the throttle cables going that way. On mine, they were run straight back the longitudinal frame rails . For one thing I don't think you'll be able to get the tank on there the way it is, and secondly, that way makes a hard turn for the cables. I also don't think that wire clamp you have there is going to fit either. Sorry to be a wet blanket.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:02 PM   #54
flemsmith OP
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Thanks!

No, that's exactly the feedback I'm looking for. I'm very literal; I can do ok if I have the right detailed info to go by; and I can get in trouble pretty quickly when I'm trying to figure out things by myself. I changed to a smaller P clamp that'll make sure I have enough harness room for a left turn, and I'll reroute the throttle cables. I'm working on the back end wiring now, that'll take me a little while. I might as well wire in the Dyna electronic ignition while I'm at it. Plus I ordered a waterproof voltmeter that's not here yet. Will update when I've actually got something to show. By the way, what the heck does go thru the grommets if anything?

Thx again,

roy
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:15 AM   #55
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
You definitely don't want the throttle cables going that way. On mine, they were run straight back the longitudinal frame rails . For one thing I don't think you'll be able to get the tank on there the way it is, and secondly, that way makes a hard turn for the cables. I also don't think that wire clamp you have there is going to fit either. Sorry to be a wet blanket.
I concur. I think I may have used a very loose zip tie just to keep the throttle cable routed up front there when I was routing everything, but nothing more than that.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:13 PM   #56
JonnyCash
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Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
By the way, what the heck does go thru the grommets if anything?

Thx again,

roy
I dont have the grommet there, but my bike has been hacked up a lot. The wiring that goes to the front brake light switch goes through that hole in the frame(no grommet) on the other side.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:47 PM   #57
flemsmith OP
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Dyna III

I was looking at the Dyna III ignition module I bought some time ago, and it says it needs to work with coils that have at least 5 ohms primary resistance. I'm pretty partial to the ones I have already, and they're 3 ohms. Wonder if the output amps really can't drive 3 ohms? Since they sell what looks like the same unit for BMW's that are rated for 3 ohm, I'm wondering if they really have a weaker output drive, or just a more conservative instruction sheet? I'm almost inclined to try them anyway, and just not go far from home for the first 100 mi or so in case they go belly-up. But, on the other hand, I'll probably worry about them too much to relax. If anyone has real world knowledge, I'd be interested.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:35 PM   #58
Luke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
I was looking at the Dyna III ignition module I bought some time ago, and it says it needs to work with coils that have at least 5 ohms primary resistance. I'm pretty partial to the ones I have already, and they're 3 ohms. Wonder if the output amps really can't drive 3 ohms? Since they sell what looks like the same unit for BMW's that are rated for 3 ohm, I'm wondering if they really have a weaker output drive, or just a more conservative instruction sheet? I'm almost inclined to try them anyway, and just not go far from home for the first 100 mi or so in case they go belly-up. But, on the other hand, I'll probably worry about them too much to relax. If anyone has real world knowledge, I'd be interested.

Sorry, no real world experience; but here's some theory:

According to the wiring diagrams in the instructions, the BMW coils are wired in series with a crossover wire connecting one coil to the other. This makes the total resistance that the driver sees double the resistance of each coil, so 6 ohms. The Guzzi diagram has a separate output driving each coil, so it's totally reasonable that they'd say the coils need to be 5 ohms minimum for the Guzzi setup since the BMW setup calls for coils with 3 ohms minimum.


I suggest either switching coils or using ballast resistors to lower the current to what dynatek recommends. 2 ohm resistors with a minimum power rating of 15 watts should be right. A pair of 1 ohm 10W resistors in series for each coil would be easier to find if you're buying parts locally.
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:33 AM   #59
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
I was looking at the Dyna III ignition module I bought some time ago, and it says it needs to work with coils that have at least 5 ohms primary resistance. I'm pretty partial to the ones I have already, and they're 3 ohms. Wonder if the output amps really can't drive 3 ohms? Since they sell what looks like the same unit for BMW's that are rated for 3 ohm, I'm wondering if they really have a weaker output drive, or just a more conservative instruction sheet? I'm almost inclined to try them anyway, and just not go far from home for the first 100 mi or so in case they go belly-up. But, on the other hand, I'll probably worry about them too much to relax. If anyone has real world knowledge, I'd be interested.
Hi Roy,

I am running 3 ohm coils with a Dyna III on my I-Convert and that set up is working very well for me over the past several thousand miles now. Have a read here, the instructions clearly state that 3 ohm coils are to be used:

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/m...n_instructions

That being said, the instructions from Dyna have been less than crystal clear over the years and there is some degree of confusion over what should be done. Personally, I stuck with 3 ohm coils (Pertronix flamethrowers) and the Dyna III. It has been working flawlessly for me. I did ground it as instructed - I believe that is key for longevity.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:56 AM   #60
waylongway
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OK here we go..I try-ed to find all the info on this before I bought my coils For my 78 850. Then asked Steve at bevel heaven and this is what he said..

5 ohm for everything but race bike installation….

Steve Allen www.BevelHeaven.com

But I do have the dual spark heads. But Don't Know For sure??

Maybe you should ask Ed Mulch,No offense to you Greg! I may (WILL) need your help Later!
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