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Old 02-19-2013, 11:01 AM   #916
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Originally Posted by ironbutt20 View Post
We met you on the Dempster Highway and again in Dawson City at the D2D where you helped Ross bend back some of my bits. We went on to Prudhoe Bay and completed our Prudhoe to Ushuaia ride. You were right-the Haul rode was a breeze compared to the Dumpster! You're going to love the south half. Gene and Neda are friends of ours from our Toronto club so say hi to them for us.
Heya guys, yeah I remember you guys, hopefully the straightening served you well.

Good for you guys completing the mission too, more to see on the haul road so great that you didi it .

Will say hi to Gene and Neda, will be catching up with them in Xela in Guatemala for Spanish lessons.

Cheers Andi
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:34 PM   #917
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Oaxaca to Tuxtepec - It Rained Cats And Dogs

Then the rain got heavy!!

We left Oaxaca when it was overcast. Not sure what the teachers are going to do on Monday, we didn’t want to wait and find out either.

Don told us from Oaxaca to Tuxtepec is nice windy road, up to the mountains and very nice. When we left town towards the mountain, it started to rain. We haven’t seen any rain for about 7 months, this time, it’s a real one.

I guess because the Oaxaca side doesn’t get much rain in the dry season, so it brought out the oily stuff to the surface, it’s as greasy as a butchers knife and slippery .

We carried on up to 3200m high, the temp went down to 3 deg C, we both got really cold. We had to stop on the top of the hill and found a restaurant, hot coffee ordered followed by some hot food. After a while, when we warmed up a bit, plus more warm clothes put on, we are on our way again.

The rain was driving in horizontally !!



The sign of a desperately cold face ... proof that yello can turn blue back to yello



The life saver



My jacket left a huge puddle on their floor, the water was pouring out of everywhere, the Klim gear held extremely well but water was driven in through the cuffs and the neck soaking down from my balaclava as I had to ride with my visor open for a fair bit of the time to see where we were going

Descending down the hill, this side the road was not as slippery as the other side, but the fog set in (we were actually in the cloud so no big view for us today), we can’t see 50m. It took us 5 hours to do the 220 km, and our Spot was killed by the rain too.

See the water rolling down the road



Bit damp but somewhere under there is a smile



It was windy as well as rainy so there was foliage all over the road.



Visibility was less than ideal



Thick fog and water chasing us down the road.



Getting to Tuxtepec, we quickly found a cheap hotel. Although our Gortex was water proof, riding in the rain long enough, water still found its way down to our chest and sleeves. Luckily we had the ceiling fan working all night to dry most of them.

To finish there was a waterfall cascading off the building so what is one to do but make the most of it ... next time I will wear my togs!



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Old 02-19-2013, 04:17 PM   #918
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Tuxtepec to Manititlan

Although the hotel was cheap, we both slept in until quarter to ten!

The rain has stopped, we had a dry day to start with.

We rode towards to San Cristobal, just after Acayucan, the weather was looking dogdy again - dark clouds in front of us again. Andi stopped to zip up his pants. We both hop off the bike, we saw a pile of oil under Maya’s belly, and it was still pissing oil! OMG, here we go again!



Oil was everywhere



Maya was undersealed with synthetic oil, my previous cleaning job shot to pieces with road muck, rainy stuff and oil all over everything



We were just opposite a Pemex, so we pushed Maya to the side. The lady from the service station was very kind, she let us park under the roof. It started spiting again. I pulled the bash plate off started the bike and found the oil hose was split, that was where the oil came from.

I cut the broken hose off, it’s now to short to put back up.



Ellen went to ask where we can get a long hose. The lady from Pemex told us of a mechanico just across the road, as luck would have it he had a straight piece, not perfect but it will get us going.

So cutting and mucking around and two hours later we were back on the road, we lost 2.5 L of oil and could only buy dinosaur oil so we got the 20 - 50 grade motorcycle oil to fill up, oil change due in about 600 km so it will come out then.

Can’t believe how lucky we were to find the problem there as a few km down the road would have been a different story and probable engine damage ... life is interesting.

Arriving at Manititlan we looked for hotel, they were either dodgy as for 150 Pesos or too much for us at 700 Pesos, we decided to hit the road out of town to find somewhere.

The last point prior hitting the main exit road was a love motel, 200 Pesos for 4 hours .... we want the night, discussions were had and we said 300 Pesos for the night?, she disagreed with us and said no and wrote down 270 Pesos till 9.30 am ......she won!!

The place was great, no Wifi she said, we turned on the computer and bing straight onto the net ..... a bonus.

Being outa town a bit restricted us access to good fud so off to OXXO for hotdodgies and a tamale that was ... filling.

Another interesting day saw two tired kiwis hit the sack for good sleep.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:20 PM   #919
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Wicked Hi Andi and Ellen

You were lucky you stopped just in time Bro with the oil leak , reminds me of when I stopped at Alaska Leather and the Elephant had blown out seal behind cam drive . I had no net for a week so took a bit of reading catching up , I always tried to avoid riding in the heavy rain , tomorrows always sunny and remember to have a holiday from the holiday . Im at Northern Samar Philippines stuck in tropical storm . I have some cool pics of local stretched bikes and police bikes so will so will post them when i get them posted on my smuggy . Ride safe Toddy and JB
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:02 AM   #920
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Lucky catch with that oil leak. At the rate that thing was gushing you didn't have much longer to notice it. Looks like your SPOT died too. You guys have been in the same spot out in the middle of nowhere for a few days now.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:40 PM   #921
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You were lucky you stopped just in time Bro with the oil leak , reminds me of when I stopped at Alaska Leather and the Elephant had blown out seal behind cam drive . I had no net for a week so took a bit of reading catching up , I always tried to avoid riding in the heavy rain , tomorrows always sunny and remember to have a holiday from the holiday . Im at Northern Samar Philippines stuck in tropical storm . I have some cool pics of local stretched bikes and police bikes so will so will post them when i get them posted on my smuggy . Ride safe Toddy and JB
Yeah lucky with the leak alright, we were being looked after for sure.

Re the rain, we were committed by the time it started hosing badly and the weather map showed it miles away, never mind that is the way it works sometimes, believe me I would not have put a key in the bike had I known what we were in for!!!
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:43 PM   #922
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Lucky catch with that oil leak. At the rate that thing was gushing you didn't have much longer to notice it. Looks like your SPOT died too. You guys have been in the same spot out in the middle of nowhere for a few days now.
Hell yeah, few more miles and I am sure the RED light of death would have come on we woulda been in the middle of nowhere with probable damage too.

Just so lucky to discover it there.

RE Spot, yeap died, Spot are replacing it under warrantee, only bugga we will have hole in our map for South East Mexico

Not a biggy in the scheme of things.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:11 PM   #923
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Minatitlan To San Cristobal

Spotless ... in two ways, what a beautiful city and now we don't know where we have been .... or at least I don't, Ellens memory is betterererer than mine

So ..... leaving the love shack we had a nice warm and dry day, milage to complete was 350 km, easy as.

We chose the Cuota road for this leg as the Libre is partly dirt and loaded with toppes through small town so would take two day for not much.

We paid in total 100 Pesos so about $8 dollars which was worth it to make the ground on mostly smooth road with NO toppes.

To be fair the view from out the window was pretty good too, once we got to Tuxtla we then got on to the Libre road which took us up to 3000 metres with a beautiful twisty road and views that were outstanding.

Only a few road pics today

Someone wrote KTM on the road but clearly can't spell KTM



Beautiful day and backdrop with mountain ranges



A large inland lake we passed



Arriving in San Cristobal was sunny, warm and inviting, within 10 minutes of arriving we found a nice hotel called Hotel San Luis with a courtyard for Maya to play in, the rooms nice, Wifi and QUIET ... something to treasure in Mexico.



We decided that was the place, soon as we unpacked we decided that was the place for two nights!

Walking into town once in civilian mode we went to a recommended coffee shop, up till now Durango had the best coffee, now it was this place buy a country mile.



So good was the coffee we didn’t bother going elsewhere for the duration of our stay, of interest the coffee is locally grown as well so we are supporting the local, a nice feeling to be honest.

Around and abut we walked through town taking in the sights and at one point at the top of stair near a church we just sat and observed.....really neat watching the Mexican world go by.

Cool old bike



We like our shadows as they are taller than us



Town in the evening



Like a boring old couple we went back to the Hotel San Luis with a bottle of wine, cheese and crackers (like Wallace and Grommitt) and caught up on our trip reports and purchasing stuff for Maya.

Also to our surprise we saw a traveller earlier in the day on a Yamaha Tenere, when we arrived back home there was the bike in the courtyard and its owner Eamon Molloy came back later on so we sat round chatting... till after midnight.

Morning arrived dishing up a beautiful day again. We set off to our favorite cafe this time bringing Eamon with us, again the coffee did not disappoint yet again reinforcing it being the best we had since leaving New Zealand.



On returning to the hotel we fixed the rear brake pads which were covered in oil from the burst pipe thus leaving us with NO back brake and hauling up on one single front disc wasn’t cutting it.

Took the pads out, took them out to the sandstone street and sanded the oils shit off, job done in two minutes.

I then helped Eamon fix his leaking carb with a quick needle and seat cleaning job and some new filters.

Maya stalking Aemons Tenere like a tiger in the bushes



After fixing Eamons bike Ellen and I went for a ride to a couple of local villages to look at them, it was a nice ride and on our return we returned for a Frappe Coffee treat at our new local.

Staircase to the top of the hill



Crusing back to the hotel was more writing and picture uploading before heading out for some Indian for tea which was very nice indeed.

All in all we absolutely loved San Cristobal, is was nothing like we thought and far better than our expectations to the point that both of us agreed it was the nicest place we have been in Mexico so far ..... did I mention it was quiet .... just golden!!!

Eamon had gone to the movies and on his return we decided to ride together to Pelenque etc ...... 10.31 pm, time for the old fella and felles to go to bed.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:38 PM   #924
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Good to see you two Gruvers groovin. I like the pic of stalking Maya. Maybe pick up some oil hose and clamps for the kit.

freezing in Peachland.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:46 PM   #925
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Good to see you two Gruvers groovin. I like the pic of stalking Maya. Maybe pick up some oil hose and clamps for the kit.

freezing in Peachland.
Heya Mike, yeap all happening again which is great, still snowing up your way?

Got everything we need now I hope for our kit.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:47 PM   #926
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Page Filler To Shorten Pages

New report up next
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:11 PM   #927
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San Cristabal To Palenque

Perfect weather again, I can get used to this, 9.30 am start with Eamon running a bit behind we left at 9.45 am, 209 km to do, waterfalls to see and thousands of toppes to run over we were on or way.

The road was very twisty with moderate traffic so we set a slower pace so we could look out the window as the scenery was mint.

There was a number of the 15 mphr club on their Sunday drive on Wednesday so we passed these guys.

During the day Maya clicked over 10000 km



At one stage we caught up on a line of traffic probably near on 700 - 800 metres long all caught up behind a semi trailer going very slow, one by one we picked them of as it was half of first gear crawling speed with hot temps which Maya does not like ... nor do I sitting on top when it is 35 degrees plus at that pace.

After about 10 - 15 minutes of passing and pulling in one at a time we finally broke free of the pack just in time to get to a military check point and to be waved through, had we got stuck behind all the trucks etc we would have been there for hours.



Getting to the turn off to the waterfall we headed off down the hill, paid our 57.00 Pesos each and parked up by a restaurant with the restaurant man waving us in and inviting us to leave our gear under his watchful eye (also when we come back we have to buy from him .... a good business man)

Ditching all our bikie gear and turning into humans (cos it was 38 degrees C and STICKY as we wondered off looking like everyone else taking photos of the waterfall and it was very well worth going to.









Ellen piled in for a swim, bit cold for me as I like it steaming before I get in.



Returning to the bike and the restaurant Aemon bike was there, we took a seat and ordered two nice cold Cokes, no wonder he flagged us in with a big smile on his face as they were spendie ... but worth it to get a sugar boost and something chile inside, in that heat neither of us felt hungry so we didn’t eat.



Carrying on to Palenque we turned off toward to ruinas per good advice from the guy running the Indian restaurant in San Cristabal, the first few places were very expensive, one was super cheap but we had to share it was cockroaches mossies and an assortment of other aliens and finally we found a place within our price range and not to bad ... but no Wifi ... a funny thing now we have come to rely on being our link to you guys.

At that stage of the day it was sticking hot and super sticky, we both had a quick shower then the water ran out!!!.... not cold ... ran out!! 8-(

The restaurant was below so we went down for a feed, Ellen wasn’t hungry and I was only peckish so I ordered a medium size feed which fed both of us easily couple with a coldie each.

The owner had some seriously awful almost depressing music playing (note DEFINITELY not restaurant style stuff) so Ellen politely asked if he had Mexican music to which he said yes and changed it ..... this lifted the mood in the whole place.

Bedtime was calling .. time to rest for the ruinas.

Next morning we woke to a fine day for poking around the ruinas so we set off on Maya with only two km to do to the gate.

Parking Maya up the guy wanted 30 Pesos to wash her and 20 Pesos to watch her, we said no to both ... maybe he should have washed her but to be fair she is covered in oil from the popped pipe so it would not be fair to him as his gear would have gotten caked.

The ruinas were excellent to say the least, it is hard not to take photo after photo and we just sat looked, listened and learned taking in the place, many tourists on tour just rip around and out the other side, I think our money comes to us a bit harder than them so we want to make the most of it and it was a big effort to get there, your good advice Bevan, when you see it see it well!! (reinforces what we were already doing and advice taken as a reminder)

Just a few pics of the place as it has been done to death, if you want to see more go here

http://s1263.beta.photobucket.com/us...lenque%20ruins









Finishing at the ruinas we wondered back to Maya who was patiently waiting in the carpark, still dirty, still intact, jumping on the super heated seat in shorts I temporarily toasted the blokes !!!.

The Museum was just back down the road so we dropped in to see that as well, again very well presented and air conditioned it was a nice reprieve from the heat and humidity.

Again Maya waiting in the carpark we piled back on to go to the hotel, again jumping on the super heated seat in shorts I temporarily toasted the blokes !!!.... again!!!

Leaving the bike at the hotel we took a bus to town to have look around, grab some lunch and just mill around.

We found a shop named after us too



We found The Italian Coffee Company and the had Wifi so that was mint, do a ride report, upload some pics and do some ordering co-ordination.

I also went to an auto shop as Maya has been losing antifreeze, hopefully from junk under the radiator cap.

Finishing our office work over a Frappe-chino (darling) we headed back to home base to fix Mayas coolant drinking problem, removing the radiator cap it had crusty crap everywhere so we cleaned it out lubed everything and filled the antifreeze back up, hopefully this will sort it out.

Home made tacos with salsa and avocado was on our menu along with apple juice.

A quick chat with our french neighbours and it was time to call it quits for the night.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:38 AM   #928
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Classic ... yeah brings back memories having 7 VTR 1000's in the lounge
hey!

i resemble that
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:44 AM   #929
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hey!

i resemble that
HA ... yeah that was funny, I still have those pics in my archives at home.

That has is red flagged now from the earthquake and set for demo
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:52 AM   #930
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is it? thats a buggar - that was a coolio place!

I AM C A U G H T U P! Yippee!


btw what are toppes?


and loving your photos guys!
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