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Old 02-19-2013, 06:34 PM   #73906
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
No ... never saturate the filter. I simply drizzle on the sticky Foam filter oil, then work it into the filter with a rag, gently squeezing the filter until the oil is distributed evenly. You DO NOT need a lot of oil.

What's MORE important ... is putting a bead of GREASE along the sealing edge of the filter where it contacts the Air Box. This will prevent both dirt and water from getting into the Carb and motor.

Filter Cleaning 101 (YMMV)
1. Carefully remove dirty filter from air box, don't let crap around filter into Intake tract.
After removing filter ... clean air box well.

2. Immerse Filter into odorless Kerosene. Use rubber gloves and work Kero
into filter, wringing gently to break down former oil and dirt. Wring most of Kerosene out .. but DO NOT damage filter.

3. Insert filter into HOT water and Dawn dishwashing soap. Wash and ring out gently, then RINSE very well. Wring gently and put out in Sun or inside to dry before re-oiling.

4. Re-oil and install. (don't forget grease bead on sealing edge.

Lots of variations on this of course. Some use Dish soap alone. Some use Gasoline (), or Diesel. (stinks) Gasoline is dangerous and will break down the glued seams in your filter and destroy the foam over time.

Diesel will do the same over longer time. Kerosene seems fairly harmless to the foam with brief immersion and gets filter clean more quickly than Dawn alone. YMMV. IMHO, blah Blah Blah.
I use mineral turpentine, or turps, on Uni Filter's recommendation for cleaning, and no soap or water. Just clean with 'turps' and allow to air dry. There will be some residual oil left in the filter, so you don't have to add as much to reoil.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:53 PM   #73907
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Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:03 PM   #73908
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Rusty - what seat is that? Seat Concepts tall?
Thanks for the nice words DL jockey.

Seat Concepts Tall.

Yes, it's the very first one that they built. I pestered the hell outta them to get it in time for my Skyline Drive, Blue Ridge Parkway ride last Sept. He gave me a wicked deal for making him get around to it. Love the thing.

Seat makes the bike look mean. The old blue/yellow was ugly. So were the yellow fork boots. It looks a lot better from far away.

There is still the purple frame and the knee marks where the paint is rubbed off the tank. Same with the boot wear on the frame.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:00 PM   #73909
Chill
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Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Rusty, that's a good looking bike. What is that on the left side of the tank?
It's a cow.

Chill screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 11:16 PM
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:10 PM   #73910
Chill
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I enquired about brake upgrades a few weeks ago and got some good advice here. Thanks.

Anyhoo, I sorted them last weekend. Was a bit nervous as I've only ever done new pads before, never fluid or bleeding. I swapped the brake lines for braided Galfer lines, new EBC pads and new fluid. I was looking for a bit more bite to the brakes and they've turned out better than expected. I'm chuffed with the results and chuffed I did it myself, I love working on this bike. Anyway, I know a lot of people only ever do the braided front line but I'm glad I did the rear too. I use it a lot commuting, and the feel is much better now. Managed to strip the phillips head out of one of the front master cylinder screws but drilled it out and put some stainless M4's in there, seems ok, no leaks.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:04 AM   #73911
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
I enquired about brake upgrades a few weeks ago and got some good advice here. Thanks.

Anyhoo, I sorted them last weekend. Was a bit nervous as I've only ever done new pads before, never fluid or bleeding. I swapped the brake lines for braided Galfer lines, new EBC pads and new fluid. I was looking for a bit more bite to the brakes and they've turned out better than expected. I'm chuffed with the results and chuffed I did it myself, I love working on this bike. Anyway, I know a lot of people only ever do the braided front line but I'm glad I did the rear too. I use it a lot commuting, and the feel is much better now. Managed to strip the phillips head out of one of the front master cylinder screws but drilled it out and put some stainless M4's in there, seems ok, no leaks.
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #73912
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
Aren't they called "Cheesehead"? Seems to be what they're made of, anyway. Just checked - they are not. "A cheese head screw is one with a cylindrical head."

Anyone tried this alternator from RMStator? At $160, it seems like a good deal.

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Old 02-20-2013, 08:29 AM   #73913
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
JIS screwdrivers - http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc...-screwdrivers/
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JI.../dp/B005NIY3PM

the special tool for most is using a hand-hammer impact tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
i've used a dremel tool in the past with a thin cutoff wheel and made a slot for a flathead screwdriver to work.

later found out the trick, if you only have Philips screwdrivers, is to use the next size smaller one (so it gets the tip down in deeper in the JIS screw) and tap it from the top with a hammer. this helps drive the tool head deeper into the screw and also shocks the screw some to loosen it. if the screw is somewhat buggered up, from previous attempts, tapping the screwdriver in harder can work. often the steel screw, alum. cap & brake res. main body somewhat fuse together if the fluid has never been serviced.

here is a way to modify Philips bits/screwdrivers to fit better in JIS:
http://www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tool...rewdriver-tips

when dealing with the JIS screws on the floatbowl, the same technique can be used but often those hand-hammered tools is key. that is 1 essential tool that every home mechanic should have! once you have those screws out replace with allen bolts from PC, Jesse or the hardware store.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:44 AM   #73914
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
wow i didnt realise there were metric and imperial screwdrivers. the jis is pretty standard in australia. you can buy them in sizes 1, 2 and 3 and i carry one of each as those small removable bits that go into T handles. having the right size screwdriver for the screw will make all the difference in the world.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:50 AM   #73915
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
wow i didnt realise there were metric and imperial screwdrivers. the jis is pretty standard in australia. you can buy them in sizes 1, 2 and 3 and i carry one of each as those small removable bits that go into T handles. having the right size screwdriver for the screw will make all the difference in the world.
oh the US likes to go it's own way vrs most of the rest of the world. same crap with metric vrs sae bolts.
metric bolt numbering is so much more logical vrs sae.
seems many of the US cars have gone with metric bolts but the building industry is firmly entrenched in the US standard of measuring length.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:50 AM   #73916
isaac004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004
So yesterday I got around to making the modification described above. After draining some oil and pulling the spring out, I had to compress the fork while it was upside down in a oil pan, and slowly compress the fork to get the Intiminators out. Well not once but TWICE did I end up spraying oil all over the floor as it shot down with force into the oil pan. I should have built a little cardboard wall/fort around the pan so I did not have to spent half a hour wiping off of everything.



I removed about 1mm from each oil ring, and as I put everything back together it was MUCH easier to slide the Intiminators back in the forks. Now I had hopes. After finishing off the re-assembly with Maxima 5wt oil, I bolted everything back together. Time for the moment of truth...

..and no dice. It feels and sounds exactly the same as before.

Not sure what to do at this point. Might be a good time to upgrade to Gold Valves for slightly better off road performance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
OK, another update here.

I was trying to avoid just straight up removing them, but I figured it was worth a shot. So today I had a free hour and decided to pull out the Intiminators to see how the fork action is. I did not bother to add more oil (as the oil height dropped), add preload (to keep the same preload I should add around 3/4" extra in PVC pipe, or bump the oil viscosity up (with the Intiminators removed I should go back up to around 10 wt, as Ricor recommended a lower 5 wt). I will do these things later.

The fork action has pretty much returned to normal, in regards to no more excessive binding, easier to compress, and it rebounds back to normal ride height without me having to "pull" it up. There is still a slight amount of stiction, more then my F800GS or WR250R, but hey, it's a low tech DS bike without nice USD forks, so it feels pretty damn good now for what it is.

It looks like the bottom edge could have been scrapping the inside of the fork tubes a bit too much.


For now I will just return to a higher viscosity oil and leave the Intiminators out, more or less a stock fork setup.
Ok, an update here on this issue which I posted about on post 70057 around Oct 2012. I sent the Intiminators back to Ricor, as they said they wanted to have a look at them. They opted to rebuild them, part of which involved replacing the oil ring which confirms that it was probably an older version which swelled when soaked in oil.

I reinstalled the Intiminators and have since taken the bike out on some commuting rides, and they are much better. You feel the stiffness of the anti dive, but there is no binding, and the fork always returns to regular ride height (unlike before where it would stick.

So all is good now!
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:04 AM   #73917
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Ok, an update here on this issue which I posted about on post 70057 around Oct 2012. I sent the Intiminators back to Ricor, as they said they wanted to have a look at them. They opted to rebuild them, part of which involved replacing the oil ring which confirms that it was probably an older version which swelled when soaked in oil.

I reinstalled the Intiminators and have since taken the bike out on some commuting rides, and they are much better. You feel the stiffness of the anti dive, but there is no binding, and the fork always returns to regular ride height (unlike before where it would stick.

So all is good now!
thanks for the update!
i have some of the original ones so i might look into that too:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:46 AM   #73918
poppawheelie
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
JIS screwdrivers - http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc...-screwdrivers/
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JI.../dp/B005NIY3PM

the special tool for most is using a hand-hammer impact tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P
i've used a dremel tool in the past with a thin cutoff wheel and made a slot for a flathead screwdriver to work.

later found out the trick, if you only have Philips screwdrivers, is to use the next size smaller one (so it gets the tip down in deeper in the JIS screw) and tap it from the top with a hammer. this helps drive the tool head deeper into the screw and also shocks the screw some to loosen it. if the screw is somewhat buggered up, from previous attempts, tapping the screwdriver in harder can work. often the steel screw, alum. cap & brake res. main body somewhat fuse together if the fluid has never been serviced.

here is a way to modify Philips bits/screwdrivers to fit better in JIS:
http://www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tool...rewdriver-tips

when dealing with the JIS screws on the floatbowl, the same technique can be used but often those hand-hammered tools is key. that is 1 essential tool that every home mechanic should have! once you have those screws out replace with allen bolts from PC, Jesse or the hardware store.
Yeah, for the um-teenth time, an $8 ~ $10 impact driver is all you need. 45 years of cracking open Japanese float bowls and old side cases held by X-head screws, and I never stripped one!
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:48 AM   #73919
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
A lot of people strip those screws... they're actually not philips. They're a Japanese "standard" (I forget the exact term)... but if you look closely, they aren't tapered like a true philips.. the slots go all the way down completely. There's a special tool you can get to remove them, but it sounds like you already solved the problem. :)

Rob
JIS. Easy to find JIS drivers online.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:58 AM   #73920
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
oh the US likes to go it's own way vrs most of the rest of the world. same crap with metric vrs sae bolts.
metric bolt numbering is so much more logical vrs sae.
seems many of the US cars have gone with metric bolts but the building industry is firmly entrenched in the US standard of measuring length.
the good news is that if you guys ever do convert, youll have a couple of hundred years of having to know both measurements and the conversion rates. pressure is even better with psi, bar and kpa to confuse you even more.
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