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Old 02-19-2013, 07:43 PM   #31
gunnerbuck
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Good Stuff... I think the Tim Hortons are going to be a little harder to find in your next installments...
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:09 PM   #32
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i see a lot of typing in your future to get us up to date...
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:46 AM   #33
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I amended your thread title to attract more readers to this epic adventure.. if you'd like it to say something else, PM me.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:57 AM   #34
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Wow. You are on one of the most scenic, and it seems practical, trips to be had for the majority of us in North America. Thanks for taking the time and effort to bring us along with your report and pictures. Looking forward to more.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:13 PM   #35
dean10 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Good Stuff... I think the Tim Hortons are going to be a little harder to find in your next installments...
You are going to be surprised at what lengths I go to for my Tim Hortons addiction
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:15 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
i see a lot of typing in your future to get us up to date...
Hi Paul lots of CTRL C and CTRL V and edit edit me thinks but promised myself I would get round to doing this when and if I had time don't you be giving the ending away
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:18 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GB View Post
I amended your thread title to attract more readers to this epic adventure.. if you'd like it to say something else, PM me.
I am just a modest English chap no need for all that razzmatazz
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:23 PM   #38
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Fort Nelson to Watson Lake, Sunday, 1 July 2012, Day 27

Mummy grizzly bear :-)[/caption]

What a most enjoyable day loved it saw 7 bears 3 where a grizzly a mum and 2 cubs and the rest where either black or brown and I got some photos as well. Saw a Moose and there where Bison on the road that needed avoiding as well so from a nature perspective brill. (Joke for the day what is the difference between a buffalo and a bison?) From a scenery perspective gorgeous winding roads through forests lakes and river also brilliant. Weather stayed dry most of the day a few drops and treat of rain but never happened. It pissed down last night so the tent was wet when I got up but the sun was shining so had a shower and got some breakfast at the campsite a weak version of Tim Horton’s. Just heard the next one is not till Whitehorse so I am having withdrawals!* Tent was sort of dry so packed it anyhow as I had an appointment with the big parade that Fort Nelson was throwing as today was Canada Day. So Happy Birthday Canada, Fort Nelson is not that big and either was the parade it was charming and I enjoyed watching it some nice old cars and some very simple floats form one end of the road till the other.

Fort Nelson Canada Day[/caption]



Excellent hit the road at about 12 and had about 650km to the next big place Watson Lake that was next on my target. Beautiful day on the bike new tyres scrubbed roads very rough in places so had to keep my wits about me with that and all the wildlife. To fix the road here they fill large section with gravel and let the traffic compress it and this goes on for miles and miles and in the most unexpected places not much grip on a motorcycle especially in the corners and blind brows when you suddenly hit a patch at speed. A few brown underpants moments. Arrived at about 7.30 after long hard drive and went to the info center in the hope of finding some cheap motel in town.

Moody Shot![/caption]

Alaska Highway[/caption]

No joy but there was a government run campsite just out of town but no showers so another pongy day tomorrow. Went for some dinner and then headed out to the campsite where I am siting with my sleeping bag inner sheet wrapped around my head looking like an old lady but it allegedly has DEAT but does not seem to keep the fecking mossies’ at bay looks like another early night running away from the moggies. Need a solution to them as they are bugging the shit out of me and I am covered head to toe with bites (moan over) Still been a fantastic day and the bloody mossies’ are not going to ruin it for me. Oh yes and the punch line to the Joke of the day you can wash your hands in a Bison teehee. Oh yes I am in the Yukon who would have thought ;-)

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Old 02-20-2013, 06:31 PM   #39
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Watson Lake to Whitehorse, Monday, 2 July 2012, Day 28

Signpost Forest Watson Lake[/caption]

Was cold in the tent last night the temperature has dropped considerably but still managed to get a good sleep but was hard getting out of me cosy sleeping bag into cold clothes. Getting more efficient at breaking down my camp but still slow process and being eaten by mosquitoes does not aid the process but does make me more efficient. Heading back to Watson Lake info center as I had a coffee and film date with the nice lady there turned out it was not only me every one gets free coffee and the film was a 18 minute film on the Alaska Highway which was interesting had a cookie coffee and a mars bar for breakfast whilst watching a documentary nice slow way to start a day. Also walked around the signpost forest for a while and it was 11.30 before I hit the road.

Signpost Forest[/caption]

In need of a shower![/caption]

The scenery was a bit harsh than yesterday maybe this was because the sun was not shining but still very interesting. Not so much wildlife today only nearly squashed a squirrel as I left the campsite and also saw a fox on the way into Watson lake have seen a few of these over last couple of weeks.

Before It Rained[/caption]

The weather got colder and wetter as the day went on so on went the went the jumper and the winter gloves will need to think about pulling out the thermals if this continues as I was just on the edge of being comfortable if it gets colder I will need more layers.

Nice even when weather is bad[/caption]

Whitehorse[/caption]

Found a hostel in Whitehorse last bed going which was I relief as I was cold and wet and smelly and dirty. Had a shower and went to the supermarket to get some dinner and something against the mossies’ I am going chemical on them even if it kills me the process.* Charging everything up as I have not had easy access to power and the net the last couple of days and enjoying Jamaican Ginger Beer and chocolate biscuits burp! Day of the bike tomorrow hope it stops raining.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:20 AM   #40
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Whitehorse, Tuesday, 3 July 2012, Day 29

nice hostel in Whitehorse[/caption]

Rest day today. Was looking forward to a night out of the tent but this turned out to be one of the noisiest rooms I have slept in for a while. Snorers, guy having nightmare, girl above me had headphones on and you could hear the music so restful it was not so maybe the tent is not that bad after all. It also never gets dark so that is also a mind f**k as you think it still early and it turns out to be lot later than you expect. Spent the day wondering aimlessly around town found a Tim Horton’s for breakfast and another one for afternoon tea so got my TH fix for the day. I think the attraction I have to this place other than the cinnamon rolls is that is something familiar and is the same everywhere you go so when you are on the road it is nice to have something that you know will always be constant as you move daily from place to place (How about that Sigmund Freud!) Went to see SS Klondike, which is a museum ship of one of the old steamboats that used to work between Whitehorse and Dawson City on the Yukon run by Park Canada so my discovery card got me not sure if I got full value yet so will have to find a few more of these places to ensure I get me monies worth plus they are fascinating and interesting place to visit. Its 11.30 and it still light weird but must go to bed hitting the road again tomorrow destination Dawson City cannot wait.

SS Klondike[/caption]

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Old 02-21-2013, 06:22 AM   #41
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Whitehorse to Dawson City, Wednesday, 4 July 2012, Day 30

Dawson City[/caption]

Strange day was up and out quite early filled myself on Tim Horton’s for breakfast and then filled the bike and hit the road. Was quite cold so stopped and put my new sweater (Moreno wool supposed to be brilliant against the cold and does not get smelly very quickly which is a bonus jury still out on its capabilities and whether it will live up to all the hype) later it started raining so pulled out the waterproofs that helped with the cold. Did quite a few km today but do not remember much the day seem to wiz by. The scenery was pleasant but stark and passed a lot places that had been damaged by forest fires and for each they had the year so you could see the different levels of rejuvenation.

5 Finger Gorge Yukon River[/caption]



Finally got to Dawson city and headed to a hostel I had read and heard about which was a ferry ride across the river from Dawson City with view over the Yukon to the City (strong word city more of a town or large village) No electricity water pumped from the river and heated by woodstoves but cheap and cheerful and a great location. Got the ferry back to town to get some supper and the place has a nice vibe to it and looks like a film or museum like an old town from the cowboy films. Going to enjoy wondering road this place tomorrow. I am only 100km short of Alaska and then I can commence the trip as per the title Alaska to Chile but that will have to wait for a while as I going to enjoy this place tomorrow then the day after the on top of the world highway into Alaska so close yet so far away and it is +-120 km dirt track and I did some today where they where digging the road up single file behind a pilot truck which I could not even keep up with in the dirt. Ended up loosing sight of the truck and was on the wrong side of the road following a huge road smoother which was leaving a berm of mud which I had to cross. It is official Phill is a crap off road rider do not have the confidence when it is muddy or deep gravel can just about cope with harden dirt but that about it so could be long drive ahead of me must get more practise and maybe longer legs would help.



Dawson City my room at 11.30 at night!![/caption]
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:23 AM   #42
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Dawson City, Thursday, 5 July 2012, Day 31

Above Dawson City[/caption]

Another pleasant day just an add on to last night at about 11.30pm I was doing some tinkering with the bike and also went for a short walk at it was still daylight which as I have said before it is a mind f**k but in a nice way. Good night sleep and up at about 9.30. Things here are a bit basic and if I wanted a hot wash then I would have to light a fire and wait for the water to warm so a cold wash instead. The process was similar to the Indonesian showers with a bowl of water and pouring jug. Cold wash certainly woke me up.* Got the ferry into Dawson and made my way to the tourist info place which was the place for Canada Parks events doted all over town first event I did was a tour of the Old Playhouse then some lunch and then a Robert Service Cabin tour with some of his readings must Google this guy whenever I get back on line as I quite enjoyed his poetry and would like to read some more. He is very famous here and has roads and schools and places named after him and I never heard of him until someone mention to me about the Robert Service Campsite on Robert Service Road in Whitehorse both of the Services I thought meant service not Service as in the surname so I have learnt something today. Funny thing is he was born in the UK and yet still unfamiliar to me and he made millions with his poetry and his books and this was unintentionally as he was a vagabond for a large part of his life. After that bit of culture I did the historical walking town of the tour so quite an enlightened day. Got the ferry back to the Hostel** and it started to rain again it had been going from beautiful sunshine to rain showers all day and this was also short lived. I then got the bike and went back on the ferry to get some fuel for tomorrows trip on top of the world highway as there are no petrol stations until a place called Chicken in the USA which is 180km away and I was running on fumes already so with the bike filled up I headed to a lookout viewpoint place which had the most spectacular views over Dawson City and the Yukon and was a great finale for my visit to Dawson City. I really enjoyed and like this place it was fascinating. Back on the ferry after grabbing something to eat in town and catching up on the blog even though I am unable to publish it. Destination Alaska via top of the world highway hope the weather is good as it’s a dirt track but the views are supposed to be spectacular so hope it lives up to it billing certainly looking forward to it. Also will have the cross the border into the US so hope that goes well as well







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Old 02-21-2013, 06:26 AM   #43
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Dawson City to Tok in Alaska yes I made it, Friday, 6 July 2012, Day 32

ooh er miss's[/caption]

I am sitting in an ambulance writing this on my right I have loads of buttons a beacon a flasher a horn etc. It is quite comfortable as well and away from those pesky mosquitoes. I am in Tok Alaska and my accommodation tonight is the back of an ambulance in great little place called Thompson’s Eagle Claw Motorcycle Park. I was aiming for Fairbanks but ran out of steam and as there is nothing between Tok and Fairbanks I got chatting with the old guy in the tourist info who directed me to the this place. Was hoping for a bed in a bunk house but that was full so I opted for the ambulance as the Tee Pee looked a bit cold yes you can stay in a Tee Pee as well! Why had run out of steam well it had been a hard day in the saddle on the Top Of the World Highway which is about 80 dirt road and it had been raining a lot so quite muddy and sloppy in places. Every turn turned up a different road surface from mud to tarmac to pebbles to gravel to huge potholes so really had to be on my games if I was going to stay upright. The upside to too all this was that every turn turned up a fantastic vista with magnificent views and scenery which I kept getting glimpse of when I was not keeping my eye on the road. So it was extremely knackering and tiring but in the end very rewarding.

Top of the world highway[/caption]



The border crossing into the States was very simple I was expecting it to be more complex and more paperwork for the bike but as I was not exporting all they needed to see was the papers and $6.00 admin fee and I allowed to stay till the 6th of October so fits in with my current plans.

Alaska I have made it![/caption]



Again I have no electricity and hot water but who needs it when it never gets dark but battery on my kit needs a recharge at some point soon. Managed to get 30 minutes in a shop but not sure If I was able to get this published and updated also grabbed a nice Thai dinner from a stand next door sitting on the side of a dusty road very hungry as I only had a chocolate biscuit for lunch and breakfast as there was no place to eat all day except for a place called chicken but the lady in the café had a right attitude on her I was not going to eat there and let that miserable cow spoil by good vibe buzz life is to short for people like that. All in all an excellent day and I am know off to chat with a guy called Hugh who been biking round Alaska for years and who knows all the good place to go. Turned out it was his first time in Alaska but sat good evening shooting the breeze taking all thing bike and travel related.

Home for the night :-)[/caption]



Last night I went to bed at 11.30 but a latecomer arrived at about 12.30 waking me up young American chap called Matt and stayed up chatting for him for ages nice bloke and an interesting dialog. He left before I was up heading up the Dempster Highway on old CX 500 hope he makes it but he had driven to Chile on old CB175 so I think he probably will.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:27 AM   #44
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Tok to Fairbanks, Saturday, 7 July 2012, Day 33

Road to Fairbanks[/caption]

Great night sleep in the ambulance even managed a bit of a sleep in. Got up and the sun was shining and had a cold shower no hot water same as the last place need to light a fire to get hot water this was offered last night but I prefer me washing in the morning and a cold shower on a sunny day is invigorating. I was the only one around so slowly packed me kit and headed out met Hugh as I was leaving said Tata and was on the road. Decided it I did not want breakfast yet and would stop up at the first place on the way which was 100 miles away keep forgetting there are loads of distance with nothing in between. Oh yes I have now converted my speedo and GPS to miles instead of km but this just make places a lot longer to get to and seems slower no idea what Fahrenheit and miles per US gallon is in real money but helps me know if I am braking the speed limit and distances on the signs match the speedo and GPS but will take a while to get used to this. The road from Tok to Fairbanks fairly dull after yesterday straight and long and flat with a view of the mountains in the distance but the sun was shining which always makes a difference to my mood. Had a Philly Sandwich for lunch slash breakfast just because of the name found something else that is fattening and bad for me to add to things I like oh my poor leathers. Got to Fairbanks at 5 after a short stop at the North Pole where I saw Santa and his reindeer. This place actually exists and I had to chuckle when I saw the sigh and had to stop when I saw the visitor center. The story is that some entrepreneur wanted to start a toy factory in Alaska and he convinces the folks to change the name to North Pole so that he could label the toys manufactured North Pole Alaska. The toy factory never materialised I think but the locals are making a nice little business out of the name there is Santa Claus House a huge Santa Claus and all the street lights are in the shape of Candy sticks. So well tacky but most amusing distraction made me smile.

North Pole[/caption]



Found a hostel in Fairbanks but a bit out of town so walked to Safeway to get some dinner about a 5-mile round trip and I have electricity and WIFI so charging up all my electrical equipment and updating me blog. Was going to stay in Fairbanks another day but not sure if it that interesting did not grab me when I cam through today so may do a run to the Arctic Circle dependant on the weather so will be doing the famous Dalton Highway.

huskies in training![/caption]
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:29 AM   #45
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Fairbanks to Arctic Circle back to Fairbanks, Sunday, 8 July 2012, Day 34

Cor Blimey guv Arctic Circle I made it![/caption]

Wow what a day absolutely the bee bollocks. Was a bit apprehensive about doing the Dalton and was going to pull the plug at any excuse but I did a fair bit of it and this is how it happened. The road out of Fairbanks to the beginning was great tarmac awesome scenery bendy with only the odd bit gravel and bumps in the corner so bike nirvana (I exaggerate for dramatic effect) and then I see a sign for James W Dalton Highway and the road turns to dirt with a blink of an eye bugger and its been raining all night so muddy as hell knock of speed ASAP down to about 25mph buttocks clenched* bike moving around all over the shop. Decide will give it a couple of mile and if this bad will pull the plug and turn round and give the Arctic Circle a miss. Then in front of me was a large duffel bag in the middle of the road with a couple of old bungee cords the few cars and RV that where around was just driving around but as it was in the middle of the road I stopped to check it as it looks like it had fallen of the back of another motorcycle.

The Bag on the Dalton ![/caption]

So I decided to see if I could find the owner so strapped it to my already well loaded bike which I was already not happy how I was handling the road never mind adding more baggage. So set of in hot pursuit well pretty slowly actually but over time as confidence grew started picking up speed and as the sun was shining the road and the mud was drying making it a lot more easy going and soon in some place I was doing 60mph+ over the muddy roads Stefan Peterhansel eat your heart a new Dakar star is born. The scenery was** breath taking when I dared take my off the road or pull off to take the some piccies unfortunately I am not sure the photos or my descriptions does not do it justice but take my word it is pretty shit hot nice up here.

The James W Dalton Hwy[/caption]

I did about 40 miles waving and signalling to any bikes coming down the road just in case it may be them looking for there duffel bag they must of thought I was mad. Got to the fuel stop place at Yukon River Camp there was a couple of bikes around asked if anyone had lost any luggage or knew somebody who had. Nope So decided to dump the bag in the restaurant as I was sick of lugging it turns out that an old Harley rider had lost it and had not realised till I walked in with it so one happy grateful chap and he insisted on giving me some money but I refused but he put some in my top pocket and would not take no for an answer turned out to be a $20 bill so my good deed got me not only lunch but a long way down the Dalton as I nearly thrown in the towel before I saw the bag. Filled up and grabbed huge burger at place called Hotspot which I was told was at the beginning of the Highway not 45miles in was planning to have breakfast there it was now 2pm so lunch instead I was starving Marvin. Had seen a sign saying that the Arctic Circle was only another 60 miles so with me new found confidence decided to go for it and I glad I did great ride on drying mud roads and a laugh with the folks all trying to get there mandatory picture of the artic circle sign. Bit of a party atmosphere there where 4 Argentinean guys who driven from Chile to here in old Argentinean built Renault so had a good laugh with them about the Falklands and the Hand of God (Maradona) Building bridges me got invited to one the guys Raul birthday party on the 21st October in Argentina so better get me skates on. There was a couple who had a huge old Airstream and I love them but never seen inside one so blagged me self a grand tour off there’s. Nice way to travel me thinks when I get to old for the bike :-)



I had decided I had pushed my luck getting this far so decided to head back to Fairbanks before it rained again and I got stuck in a muddy quagmire it was 4pm but as it does not get dark here had plenty daylight left to do another 200 miles and I was in the zone. Got back to Yukon River Camp no problem found an info place I had missed on the way and got a certificate saying that I had been to the Arctic Circle with loads of official stamps on it as well. I was getting all confident and then it started to rain bollock worse case scenario that I was trying to avoid happened struggled into my waterproofs and took a deep breath with all my confidence disappearing as the road turned to mush maybe no Dakar this year or only if it does not rain. The rainstorm was short but the roads remained muddy but they started dry in places so was doing vary speeds depending on the condition then I hit the tarmac and had lovely run in the now dry roads back to Fairbanks 100 miles was a tired little bear but a very proud little bear I had done a little over 400 miles in about 11 hours the bike was filthy you could not read the number plate everything covered in mud including me but what a glorious day they do not get much better and I had ridden to the Arctic Circle Cor Blimey Guv!

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