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02-18-2013, 03:31 AM
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#1 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Mid Calder,Scotland
Oddometer: 117
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question for Creeper
Regarding your "TDC-C is where you find it", great follow up and i THINK i finally get it, however i have one more than likely stupid question, when doing the valve clearences i should do inlet first followed by exhaust. Looking at a similar article the inlet is on the front side of engine(exhaust side of head), is this correct, and if so why is the inlet adjustment at the front and not at the carb side, the link below shows what i mean, thanks Andy.
http://www.ktmforum.co.uk/supermoto/...4-duke-ii.html |
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02-18-2013, 03:44 AM
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#2 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2009
Oddometer: 2,023
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Ain't none of my business, but . . . the linked process for sequentially adjusting valve clearance appears weird and arcane, to me:
Quote:
Thus, valve lash typically is adjusted at this maximum mechanical separation for all valves, simultaneously; at piston TDC between compression and power strokes. Thus, the admonition to open fully inlet valves to adjust exhaust valves; then, to open exhaust valves fully to adjust inlet valves, puzzles me. Please explain; I'm totally ignorant of the bike-in-question, but--the procedure of adjusting valve clearance at crankshaft orientation other than piston TDC between compression and power strokes seems unique. |
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02-18-2013, 04:30 AM
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#3 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Mid Calder,Scotland
Oddometer: 117
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Quote:
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02-18-2013, 05:29 AM
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#4 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2009
Oddometer: 2,023
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Sequentially adjusting valve clearances, rotating the crankshaft between intake and exhaust valve adjustment, may be a matter of preference.
The advantage over adjusting all valves at piston TDC between compression and power strokes isn't obvious to me, but many procedures may effectively skin a cat! There's no "one right way," certainly; best wishes in executing the method you prefer. Maybe Creeper will explain, as in:
XDragRacer screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 07:06 AM |
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02-18-2013, 05:52 AM
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#5 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Mid Calder,Scotland
Oddometer: 117
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I think the thing to remember and what Creeper is referring to is that at one point," TDC-C"all the valves are closed so this makes adjusting them simpler, if my understanding of this is correct then what his method does is to give you a fixed point," i.e all valves closed" . I could be wrong though.
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02-18-2013, 08:41 AM
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#6 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 3,814
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Not Creeper here, but yes, the inlet is the carb side.
I looked over the UK thread you referenced and while interesting, it does contain some questionable material. I'd proceed with caution, if that's your only point of reference.
__________________
"Deeply flawed people make deeply flawed decisions." |
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02-18-2013, 10:08 AM
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#7 |
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tEAM iDIOT
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Middle Park, Brisbane, Australia
Oddometer: 5,517
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Creeper gone Bye Bye...
I wouldn't expect an answer anytime soon from the great man.
Rumor has it that he lives in a shack by a river somewhere with no internet access. Apparently his email in box was constantly flooded with emails offering him Viagra and ways to make his johnson bigger and he snapped wondering which one of his exgirlfriends has a big mouth... What was worse was the constant stream of questions about LC4s, because he hadn't owned an LC4 for a few years and his riding had turned decidedly french (he has a Sherco these days I believe)... Legend has it that sometimes he does dare to take a peek at his emails, but is still hit with a few emails every week that remind him that he no longer possesses a mighty Austrian steed, but a French princess, and a big mouth exgirlfriend.
__________________
tEAM iDIOT... tHE oRIGINAL. Hard Core Dirt Touring. |
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02-18-2013, 10:44 AM
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#8 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Mid Calder,Scotland
Oddometer: 117
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Quote:
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02-18-2013, 10:48 AM
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#9 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Mid Calder,Scotland
Oddometer: 117
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Quote:
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02-19-2013, 09:46 AM
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#10 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Mid Calder,Scotland
Oddometer: 117
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Well did the clearences today, JUST, jeezo i hav'nt got big hands but that was a complete bar-steward to do. I did only take off the minimum of bits and i might have been better just taking the rads out of the way as well, i ended up having to back the screws out and just screwing down onto the feeler, i'm going to double check tomorrow as i think i may have dimpled the feeler while screwing the adjuster onto it and just want to redo everything with a clean feeler,(no dents).
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02-19-2013, 11:04 PM
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#11 |
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Traveler
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,009
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Mountain,
It's a bitch. Using a headlamp helps. Loosen both valves, intake or exhaust, then reset each individually at TDC. Next do the other two together, loosen both and reset. Bend the feeler end L-shaped at 30 degrees like a shovel. Go slow, be cool! It's a bitch. Easier the 10th time. bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered "On the road there are no special cases." Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing The faster it goes the faster it breaks. And high performance=high maintenance. Bill Shockley |
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02-20-2013, 04:17 AM
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#12 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Mid Calder,Scotland
Oddometer: 117
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Quote:
) to be honest Bill i think being a little more relaxed and having a proper tool to do it made all the difference, it dos'nt by any stretch of the imagination make me a spanner monkey but it doe's feel pretty good doing your own stuff.
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