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Old 02-23-2013, 06:37 PM   #74041
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I did install the rings in the correct direction. They are marked and the directions tell you which way to install them.

Jeff emailed me and offered to hone the cylinder and to purchase a new piston.

I want to personally thank him publicly on here for his generous offer. There aren't many guys like him, thank you so much!
Awesome! Yep, Jeff's a great guy. It was great the day I got to meet him. He gave me a tour of the shop and everything. Every time I go down there, everybody there is just tops.

So... do we know yet what the problem was? If the rings were put on the right way, was it the gap that was the culprit?

Rob
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:52 PM   #74042
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Awesome! Yep, Jeff's a great guy. It was great the day I got to meet him. He gave me a tour of the shop and everything. Every time I go down there, everybody there is just tops.

So... do we know yet what the problem was? If the rings were put on the right way, was it the gap that was the culprit?

Rob
My theory is that since I didn't do the ring gaps, they expanded with the heat and pressure and scoured the cylinder and piston. This created some free play and the noise that was heard was the piston not seated properly.

Any other opinions would be appreciated.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:32 PM   #74043
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
My theory is that since I didn't do the ring gaps, they expanded with the heat and pressure and scoured the cylinder and piston. This created some free play and the noise that was heard was the piston not seated properly.

Any other opinions would be appreciated.
I'm certain the ring gap is the cause of the problem. I just put the top end on the DR900 Stroker Motor and the top ring had about .006" gap before filing.

Performance rings are normally sized to require filing or grinding to give the desired gap. There are lots of variables that prevent the rings from being sized precisely out of the box. The ring manufacturer relies on the engine builder to adjust the gap for his specific setup.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:08 PM   #74044
doug s.
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I'm certain the ring gap is the cause of the problem. I just put the top end on the DR900 Stroker Motor and the top ring had about .006" gap before filing.

Performance rings are normally sized to require filing or grinding to give the desired gap. There are lots of variables that prevent the rings from being sized precisely out of the box. The ring manufacturer relies on the engine builder to adjust the gap for his specific setup.
a little ot, but have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?

thanks,

doug s.

ps - about your tag line - do you really think the guy who invented the 1st wheel and the 2nd wheel were different guys?
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:55 PM   #74045
Harry94025
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
My theory is that since I didn't do the ring gaps, they expanded with the heat and pressure and scoured the cylinder and piston. This created some free play and the noise that was heard was the piston not seated properly.

Any other opinions would be appreciated.
Ok, I can see the ring gap being the issue. The ring gaps are very easy to set. Get a small fine mill file, hold the file tang in a vise, and run the ring gap ends on both sides of the file with light pressure. You're moving the work piece (ring) while the tool is held stationary...

Harry
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:43 AM   #74046
Thumper Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
a little ot, but have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?

thanks,

doug s.

ps - about your tag line - do you really think the guy who invented the 1st wheel and the 2nd wheel were different guys?

Perhaps the first guy liked to ride a unicycle
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:04 AM   #74047
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?
I have not had any personal experience with Total Seal rings but I did look into them for the 790 kits. They don't offer 'off the shelf' rings in the correct size but there are some for a .002" bigger bore that could probably be used. Total seal rings still have to be gapped before installation. Total Seal calls for a bigger gap spec - .0065" or more per inch of bore. That would be .028" on the 790. The feature that makes them 'gapless' is an insert that fits under the ring that bridges the gap in the main ring.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:27 PM   #74048
Harry94025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
My theory is that since I didn't do the ring gaps, they expanded with the heat and pressure and scoured the cylinder and piston. This created some free play and the noise that was heard was the piston not seated properly.

Any other opinions would be appreciated.
Planemanx15,

One last thing... Remember that the metal that used to be part of your piston skirt is now somewhere in the engine. I would check the crank and connecting rod bearings very carefully by rotating them by hand to sense any roughness. Remove the oil filter and cut it apart; hopefully you'll see evidence of the metal trapped there. Drain the oil and see if you see silvery bits of aluminum, then flush things out as best as you can. The oil cooler would also be a good candidate for a flush.

Regards,
Harry
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:27 PM   #74049
SkunkWizard
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Owners Manual

DR 650SE 1st. Generation Owners Manual (1994 printing)
Free!

PM me, pay for postage and it's yours (USA only)

not a shop manual very good condition Owners Manual

1st person to contact me gets it
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:34 PM   #74050
planemanx15
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Originally Posted by Harry94025 View Post
Planemanx15,

One last thing... Remember that the metal that used to be part of your piston skirt is now somewhere in the engine. I would check the crank and connecting rod bearings very carefully by rotating them by hand to sense any roughness. Remove the oil filter and cut it apart; hopefully you'll see evidence of the metal trapped there. Drain the oil and see if you see silvery bits of aluminum, then flush things out as best as you can. The oil cooler would also be a good candidate for a flush.

Regards,
Harry
Thanks for the advice, ill be sure to do this.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #74051
Garak
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I just put the top end on the DR900 Stroker Motor
I haven't had time to keep up with this thread lately, but that got my attention! Can't wait to see how it plays out Jeff!
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:59 AM   #74052
Load Clear
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High Elevation

Hey All - First, I'd like to say thanks for all the advice and info I've gotten and read here. The best advice I've gotten is a) Buy the DR650 & b) put down the tools and walk away

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude? Sand storms are routine; as is heavy wet clay. Anything necessary to protect the motor and whatever else may be harmed by the sand and clay?

I have a 2012, completely stock.

Next week I am going to start asking about farkling it out.

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:41 AM   #74053
greer
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Shameless Plug

Just posted a tank and skid plate in the Flea Market:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865833

Sarah
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:12 AM   #74054
procycle
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Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude?
The high elevation will transform the 'too lean' factory jetting to 'just about right' jetting.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:54 AM   #74055
frecks
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So after suffering a catastrophic engine failure a couple years ago(that can be attributed to me not torquing things down to spec), I'm finally rebuilding my engine. My clutch pack appears to still be in good condition, but some of the aluminum shavings that were coursing through my engine seem to have gotten in the clutch pack. The clutch pack has also been sitting in a box in the garage for the past 2 years.

I'm wondering what the collective wisdom of this thread thinks is the best way to clean it and prep it for re-install.

As for lessons learned; Loctite and torque wrenches are significantly cheaper than crankcases, crankshafts, and clutch baskets.
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