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Old 02-23-2013, 12:56 AM   #16
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironjack63 View Post
One more item relating to this request for help, if I should succeed and get this broken tip out, where in the world can I find a new mixture screw?
for obscure Bing Carb parts ... Bing USA in Kansas
http://www.bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmw.html

Beware of pricing, they are the highest ... if you need normal parts like carb kits, floats, etc. go with BMW dealer. for hard to find pieces like say float seats .. odds are Bing USA has it in stock.


The only factory authorized franchise for Bing International for North America, South America and Australia.
We pride ourselves in customer service.
We understand what you want. We have the parts in stock and the services available to help you with all of your BING CARBURETOR NEEDS.
Ordering

Call us on our toll free line 1-800-309-2464 or Fax us at 620-767-7845. We also take orders and offer technical support by email: bing@bingcarburetor.com
Shipping

WE SHIP WORLDWIDE
UPS, Fed X, and US mail. Most orders ship same day.
Bing International L.L.C.

1704 South 525 Road, Council Grove, KS 66846

Toll free 1-800-309-2464




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Old 02-23-2013, 02:55 AM   #17
r77toy
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The acid that is used to etch circuit boards will eat the steel without hurting the aluminum.
Available at Radio Shack.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:34 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by r77toy View Post
The acid that is used to etch circuit boards will eat the steel without hurting the aluminum.
Available at Radio Shack.
Really? If this is true (only slightly doubting, as in being cautious) then it is truly a goldmine of information to be stored away. It would be the chemical equivalent of an EDM.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:48 AM   #19
Stan_R80/7
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Concentrated nitric acid (>80%) and sulfuric (>98%) will not attack aluminum but will attack steel. Forget about finding nitric acid. Acetic acid (vinegar) will not attack aluminum. Some hardware stores sell concentrated sulfuric acid for cleaning drains. Vinegar is available in almost every grocery store. Soaking the carburetor in vinegar is much safer than using concentrated sulfuric acid but may take many weeks to corrode the steel. If you think the carburetor body is ruined, soaking in vinegar should not hurt.

Edit: to be safe about damaging the aluminum, just soak the carburetor in water with a bit of dish washing soap. Keep the soaking carburetor warm. The steel will eventually corrode away.

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Old 02-23-2013, 08:14 AM   #20
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r77toy View Post
The acid that is used to etch circuit boards will eat the steel without hurting the aluminum.
Available at Radio Shack.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chollo9 View Post
Really? If this is true (only slightly doubting, as in being cautious) then it is truly a goldmine of information to be stored away. It would be the chemical equivalent of an EDM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
Concentrated nitric acid (>80%) and sulfuric (>98%) will not attack aluminum but will attack steel. Forget about finding nitric acid. Acetic acid (vinegar) will not attack aluminum. Some hardware stores sell concentrated sulfuric acid for cleaning drains. Vinegar is available in almost every grocery store. Soaking the carburetor in vinegar is much safer than using concentrated sulfuric acid but may take many weeks to corrode the steel. If you think the carburetor body is ruined, soaking in vinegar should not hurt.

Edit: to be safe about damaging the aluminum, just soak the carburetor in water with a bit of dish washing soap. Keep the soaking carburetor warm. The steel will eventually corrode away.
hold it folks .. has anyone actually tested Bing carbs metals in nitric acid?

used to work at a plating shop out of high school .. have dipped many a part in nitric, sulfuric and muriatic (hydrochloric) acids.

high grade aluminum in nitric acid will generally not damage metal. but most aluminum used for casting have other metals like copper, etc .. nitric acid will attack those metals destroying part.

muriatic (hydrochloric) acid was commonly used to clean/activate steel before first coat of copper or what ever was spec'd.

sulfuric acid was used in a cooled bath to anodize aluminum. so sulfuric acid will not hurt purer aluminum, but would attack copper, etc.

dipping copper into high grade nitric acid would instantly cause a violent reaction with nitric acid attacking copper at high rate. same for steel ... nitric acid will attack other metals but not pure aluminum.

(wear eyeglass and have lots of water handy) when diluting acid .. NEVER add water to nitric acid ... always add acid to water
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:06 AM   #21
r77toy
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"If" the carbs are aluminum.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:59 PM   #22
supershaft
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Airhead friendly dealerships? Get the PN's from Max's website and ANY BMW dealership is airhead friendly.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:55 PM   #23
disston
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Airhead friendly dealerships? Get the PN's from Max's website and ANY BMW dealership is airhead friendly.
I know a BMW dealership that has only one part that fits my 1975 R90/6. They will sell me an oil filter. When I asked once at the counter for some other things they so much as told me I'd be happier at Bob's. So be it. They are not Airhead friendly. I have heard there are others around the country, they just don't stock parts for Airhead vintage machines. If I give them the part numbers maybe they will order parts for me but I can do that myself else where and have the parts delivered to my front door.

Have a look at their web site. Admittedly they also sell other brands including HD.

http://www.battley.com/
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:59 PM   #24
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I know a BMW dealership that has only one part that fits my 1975 R90/6. They will sell me an oil filter. When I asked once at the counter for some other things they so much as told me I'd be happier at Bob's. So be it. They are not Airhead friendly. I have heard there are others around the country, they just don't stock parts for Airhead vintage machines. If I give them the part numbers maybe they will order parts for me but I can do that myself else where and have the parts delivered to my front door.

Have a look at their web site. Admittedly they also sell other brands including HD.

http://www.battley.com/
Whatever works. Shipped to your front door cost shipping. Despite what they told you, you could call them up with the PN and have them order it for you. Of course, if that's more convenient. Bob's? They use to never answer the phone and when they did they weren't very good help but that was years ago. SFBMW keeps tons of airhead parts in stock but I wouldn't expect them to have a mixture screw. If they don't have it in stock, they can in a matter of a few business days. Same with any dealership if they have the money or the credit to make the order.

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Old 02-23-2013, 05:06 PM   #25
ironjack63 OP
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I would like to thank everyone for their input, but especially cy. Buying a pin vise was invaluable. Long story short, I got the stuck piece of mixture screw out using the pin vise and the smallest drill bit. I only drilled about half way into the piece of mixture screw, which I drilled a little off center, and then flipped it over and used a piece of sewing needle held in a set of needle nose vice grips. I stuck the needle into the hole in the carb throat and tapped on the vice grips with a ball peen hammer about 3 or 4 times, and out popped the nasty piece of mixture screw. Amazingly, it appears after a good carb soak that I did not damage the mixture screw seat in the slightest. So, my many thanks to cy for saving my bacon on this carb.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #26
disston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Whatever works. Shipped to your front door cost shipping. Despite what they told you, you could call them up with the PN and have them order it for you. Of course, if that's more convenient. Bob's? They use to never answer the phone and when they did they weren't very good help but that was years ago. SFBMW keeps tons of airhead parts in stock but I wouldn't expect them to have a mixture screw. If they don't have it in stock, they can in a matter of a few business days. Same with any dealership if they have the money or the credit to make the order.
Bob's now has a guy on the phone that handles orders and things work just fine. I know it wasn't always like this but it works these days. Bob's also keeps almost any part for an Airhead in stock. Also has many /2 parts.

I don't mail order or order over the phone from Bob's though. I use them for my ride to dealer to get parts. It's also a great destination. I have heard others here say they have good results with Bob's when making phone orders.

I find that I usually have to pay delivery fees or I pay Sales Taxes. And it's almost always about the same amount.

Oh, congratulations to the Iron Jack in fixing the carb. Good story. Happy ending.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:24 PM   #27
Stan_R80/7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r77toy View Post
"If" the carbs are aluminum.
Good point. If the carburetors are an aluminum/zinc alloy then acid would likely destroy the body.

Good to hear a pin drill worked. Once again, trying the simplest technique first pays off. That should be some sort of law.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:36 PM   #28
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironjack63 View Post
I would like to thank everyone for their input, but especially cy. Buying a pin vise was invaluable. Long story short, I got the stuck piece of mixture screw out using the pin vise and the smallest drill bit. I only drilled about half way into the piece of mixture screw, which I drilled a little off center, and then flipped it over and used a piece of sewing needle held in a set of needle nose vice grips. I stuck the needle into the hole in the carb throat and tapped on the vice grips with a ball peen hammer about 3 or 4 times, and out popped the nasty piece of mixture screw. Amazingly, it appears after a good carb soak that I did not damage the mixture screw seat in the slightest. So, my many thanks to cy for saving my bacon on this carb.
thanks and glad you got it out!!

have drilled out many a jet during process of custom jetting high performance Weber carbs. using jeweler sized tapered reamer bits, then check hole size with a pin gauge set.

if one does many carbs ... as you found out, below pin drill set can be a life saver.


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Old 02-23-2013, 06:57 PM   #29
tuna101
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Went thru the same thing on my XT225 but not as lucky, am going to try the suggestions here now that I bought a new carb($450)
Mine was cross threaded then the p.o. tried to drill out and made it worse, tried a LH bit but no go, it's hammered. Bike was running very lean that's how I found it out. Runs great now with new carb. Some day I'll get around to giving it a go, if it works I'll have a good spare. Very frustrating to say the least, glad you got it out.
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