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Old 02-20-2013, 08:35 AM   #46
8gv OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
I think Stock gearing on the WRR is around 13/43 (13/42 on the WRX) This gearing is terribly high. Most guys guy up on the rear quite a bit which does require a longer chain from stock, but once you get a longer chain, you have a lot of options to run with out changing your chain.

What you don't want to do is drop to a 12 front. That small of a sprocket puts a lot of stress on your chain and the WRR is bad about eating through the plastic protection on the swingarm and then eating through your swingarm if you let it go that far.

Most people gear their bikes like a 13/45 - 13/49 depending on their preference. However, another popular gearing is going up to a 14 front and running like 14/50 or something like that. This also helps keep the chain away from the swingarm. If you were running 14/50, you can easily drop to a 13 if you feel like without taking out a link and that leaves you at 13/50 which is pretty low gearing.

Really though running something like 13/47 all the time isn't bad. I believe that is the gearing I'm running.

Thanks for the insight on this. Has some entrepreneur developed an alternative swing arm protector? I saw a pretty ugly picture of what can happen when the chain rubs there.

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Old 02-20-2013, 09:08 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Thanks for the insight on this. Has some entrepreneur developed an alternative swing arm protector? I saw a pretty ugly picture of what can happen when the chain rubs there.
I think as long as you maintain your chain and keep it in spec for slack you really shouldn't have issues. Especially if you goto a 14t CS sprocket.

The replacement part is dirt cheap too, so its not a big deal to replace it every so often too. It really just comes down to proper maintenance. The WRR just doesn't allow you to get away with sloppy chain maintenance.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:25 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Thanks for the insight on this. Has some entrepreneur developed an alternative swing arm protector? I saw a pretty ugly picture of what can happen when the chain rubs there.
May have been my photo

And, now that I've gone through the experience, I think I've learned a bit. It happens most often to pure offroad based bikes and because the WRR's suspension and frame geometry is closer to an offroad bike, yet allows you to rack up lots of miles relatively maintenance free, it is susceptible to this. The rear suspension has 10.6 inches of travel...

The chain runs close to the bottom of the swingarm pivot. When the rear wheel hits an obstacle and moves upward, the chain gets even closer to the pivot, and on occasion will even rub against the protector. No problem, that's how it's supposed to work.

My belief is that swingarm damage can caused by

1. Too tight of a chain.
2. A small (12 tooth) front sprocket.
3. A loose and poorly lubricated chain that has links that are kinked.
4. Too much weight on the bike (max. load rating is 408 lbs.).

None of these things alone are sufficient to cause swingarm damage, as there are lots of owners out there running 12 tooth sprockets, tight chains, loose kinked chains, etc. without suffering damage. I think the biggest contributing factor is a combination of one or more of these along with riding long distances with lots of obstacles.

Do I think this is a "design flaw?" Nope, it's a maintenance issue. If you keep the chain well-maintained, keep the slack adjustment correct, don't overload the bike, and stay with the stock 13 tooth sprocket you're not going to have this problem. I would buy a spare seal guard (Yamaha-ese for the swingarm protector) and take it with me on any long trips--it's a wear item.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:37 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
Most people gear their bikes like a 13/45 - 13/49 depending on their preference. However, another popular gearing is going up to a 14 front and running like 14/50 or something like that. This also helps keep the chain away from the swingarm. If you were running 14/50, you can easily drop to a 13 if you feel like without taking out a link and that leaves you at 13/50 which is pretty low gearing.
IMHO, this is the best option. Yes, you need a longer chain to set it up ... but once set up you've got gearing options ... by simply swapping out front sprockets and adjusting chain slightly: 14/50 for road riding, 13/50 for trails ... and 12/50 if things get really knarly. We do a similar set up on the DR650's ... and we switch between a 16T, 15T and 14T ... all with a larger rear sprocket. Works perfectly and covers a WIDE range of gearing.

Someone could work out the Math and compare these options to stock ratios ... and go from there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Thanks for the insight on this. Has some entrepreneur developed an alternative swing arm protector? I saw a pretty ugly picture of what can happen when the chain rubs there.
The WR, like most dual sports, has a thick rubber, wrap around swing arm protector. When it shows deep grooves ... its time to replace it. Not that big of a deal. If you ride A LOT of aggressive off road the chain will rub through the rubber protector eventually. Normal wear and tear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
My belief is that swingarm damage can caused by
1. Too tight of a chain.
2. A small (12 tooth) front sprocket.
3. A loose and poorly lubricated chain that has links that are kinked.
4. Too much weight on the bike (max. load rating is 408 lbs.).

None of these things alone are sufficient to cause swingarm damage, as there are lots of owners out there running 12 tooth sprockets, tight chains, loose kinked chains, etc. without suffering damage. I think the biggest contributing factor is a combination of one or more of these along with riding long distances with lots of obstacles.

Do I think this is a "design flaw?" Nope, it's a maintenance issue. If you keep the chain well-maintained, keep the slack adjustment correct, don't overload the bike, and stay with the stock 13 tooth sprocket you're not going to have this problem. I would buy a spare seal guard (Yamaha-ese for the swingarm protector) and take it with me on any long trips--it's a wear item.
Excellent summation of this issue! I tend to agree ... that it's not a great idea to go with a front sprocket smaller than 13T. Smaller will wear chain more quickly ... chain must make a sharp U Turn around the smaller sprocket ... hard on chain ... and may rub on rubber swing arm protector.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:09 PM   #50
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Tat

Have had both bikes--both new--rode the TAT on the WRR, Sold it--when KTM and Husky. The WRR makes the power way up in the rev band, when geared for the mountains it suffers on the flats trying to reach 80mph. It ate one swing arm protector around OK (I rode Myrtle Beach to TAT to Oregon) second swing arm protector was done in by OR. I spent the entire trip wringing out the WRR. I would not do it without the bigger tank and then I carried extra fuel on some legs of the route.
In my experience in the mountains the stock CV carb will perform as well as FI--all of my normal riding is above 6k and up to 10-11K.

My RR is around somewhere (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=710618 ) and the WRR did a great job for what it is--a 250cc. Look in the RR's and I can think of at least 2 others who did the TAT on WRR's. On resale mine got hard to move with over 10K on the clock--traded it on the 510 Husky.
I was riding solo and traveling light, I also lowered the WRR, it was easier to pickup and since I was riding solo I went with it.

If I were doing the TAT again it would not be on a WRR, unless my only choice is a DR650, which is just too heavy for me to deal with if I were to go down in sand with especially with a tail load. So to answer your question WRR or DR650--I would again take the WRR.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:55 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Not that big of a deal. If you ride A LOT of aggressive off road the chain will rub through the rubber protector eventually. Normal wear and tear.

I'm on my 3rd seal guard at 19k. First one was my fault, starting a trip with a chain that was getting worn. Running a 14/49 combo now for a little more longevity.

My Dad is still on his original with about 14 K...... but that may reflect different riding styles.
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:41 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post

I suppose it's time to start reading the WR250R thread to get an understanding of how mine would evolve.

Oh, and maybe I need to mention the pending 6 week absence to wifey.
I'm sure you know this, but a great source of information on the WRR is
http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:12 PM   #53
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I'm sure you know this, but a great source of information on the WRR is
http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/
Thanks for the link. Another bazillion posts to read. Screw it. I'm going to just go for it and when it goes bad you guys can tell me "I told you so".
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:52 PM   #54
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Thanks for the link. Another bazillion posts to read. Screw it. I'm going to just go for it and when it goes bad you guys can tell me "I told you so".
Good call. And it's not going to go bad. The engine is basically a slice off the yamaha R1. One of that supersport's four cylinders--high tech and time-tested. Don't be afraid to rev it--plenty of headroom with this motor.
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:53 PM   #55
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Have you considered the CRF250L?








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Old 02-24-2013, 06:15 PM   #56
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Have you considered the CRF250L?

We just picked up a used CRF250L with 600 miles on it Friday night for my wife. She's currently riding an XT225 which she actually enjoys, but she was itching for FI. We are going out west our self this year to ride CO/UT area and figured we'd pick up the CRF to see if she doesn't mind the larger bike. Until she decides, we'll keep both.

I got a chance to ride the CRF myself and its definitely porkier than the WRR. The CRF motor pulls better down low and the motor is so smooth. Amazingly, even smoother than the WRR. The WRR motor keeps pulling long after the CRF runs out of steam, but for my wife, the lower grunt down low in the rev range will work better for her. The CRF also has a much smaller cockpit area and much shorter seat to peg distance. All those things will work in favor of my wife who is only 5'4".

Suspension wise, the WRR certainly has the edge on that, but the CRF will be better than the XT. Overall, the WRR has higher quality parts and that's how the weight is lower. Honda had to cut corners somewhere, but they did bring the bike in at an amazing price point.

So now we have 4 DS's in our garage.
DR650, WR250R, CRF250L, & XT225
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:46 PM   #57
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On the WRR go with 13/49. You will be much happier with the flexibility in the lower gears, especially third when you are hustling, and it will pull you and your gear up anything on the TAT. The 47 is really marginal in just a few places, and with the 49 you can still do 65 all day long with no strain on the engine.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:01 PM   #58
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Have you considered the CRF250L?








Yes. I studied the specs and concluded it was not for me. Very nice bike at a very attractive price. For the price of a we WR you can get almost one and a half CRF's.

Keeping things Japanese, the best power to weight ratio seems to come from three bikes:
WR250...light, tall and with an 11.8:1 compression ratio, powerful.
DRZ400...heavier, tall and with an 11.3:1 compression ratio, powerful.
DR650...heavy but lower, powerful via displacement, abiet detuned displacement of unknown compression ratio.

The CRF is heavy at 320# and has a compression ratio of 10.7:1, lower power than the others.

If the Mfg's would list HP and torque in their specs this analysis would be more credible. As it stands, I only have compression ratio as an indicator of power. It's not perfect but it's all I've got.

Price does matter. A used DR is pretty cost effective but I think the bike's weight would limit its use. It could be fine for the TAT but I wouldn't want to single track it. Keeping two bikes seems to be out of the question as I have a fleet other toys hanging around.

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Old 02-24-2013, 10:17 PM   #59
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I think in your original post you said you were over 200#, I would suggest you find a WRR to test drive before making a final decision. I found the WRR lacking in power unless it was really wound up. I weight in at 163 or so.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:01 PM   #60
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I think in your original post you said you were over 200#, I would suggest you find a WRR to test drive before making a final decision. I found the WRR lacking in power unless it was really wound up. I weight in at 163 or so.
I'm 6'4"/250lbs and the WRR pulls me fine. Yes it likes to be revved, but for a 250, its a pretty peppy machine. Not sure if you rode a stock one, but with some gearing changes and a few mods, it totally changes the bike.

It does really depend on what you are used to, but I had a Husky TE610 right before my WRR and gave up the Husky to buy the WRR. The Husky was a pure animal and they don't get much powerful and lighter than that, so that was definitely culture shock, but I have no regrets about purchasing my WRR.

I have a DR650 also and of course the DR is faster out of the hole, but when it comes to pounding the dirt, I'm way faster on the WRR in the dirt. The bike is so much easier to handle and so much more fun to ride.
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