The CRF250L Owners thread

[SAPB]

Originally Posted by trainman

Could someone give me the website for the CRF250L, WR250R, and the KLX250S, latest comparison test. It was posted here, but I can't fine it and I've looked. It's the one where the Honda is picked best overall, I think it was 3-4 color pages. I want to send it to a friend who thinks his KLX250S is the best thing ever.

John

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1627

[gnath9]

Originally Posted by trainman

Could someone give me the website for the CRF250L, WR250R, and the KLX250S, latest comparison test. It was posted here, but I can't fine it and I've looked. It's the one where the Honda is picked best overall, I think it was 3-4 color pages. I want to send it to a friend who thinks his KLX250S is the best thing ever.

John

send him this one as well ....
http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs...deo-91483.html

[trainman]

Thank guys, that's the one I was looking for, I will send both of them.

John

[topping]

Does anyone know where i can get a good replacement clutch plate kit for the CRF because i have managed to burn mine out and its slipping allot.

[Lost Rider]

Originally Posted by topping

Does anyone know where i can get a good replacement clutch plate kit for the CRF because i have managed to burn mine out and its slipping allot.

I just had the same thing happen earlier today, we're far from home and were in the middle of sand dunes when it started slipping.

Loosening the clutch cable via the adjuster nuts both on the lever and on the cable below it have us enough grab to ride home I hope. I had recently checked the clutch play before this ride, apparently there is enough pad surface to use up the slack, then after loosening still make the bike rideable.

I'll be interested in any info on replacement clutch plates too.


This was a Mobile posting using Tapatalk App

[topping]

Originally Posted by Lost Rider

I just had the same thing happen earlier today, we're far from home and were in the middle of sand dunes when it started slipping.

Loosening the clutch cable via the adjuster nuts both on the lever and on the cable below it have us enough grab to ride home I hope. I had recently checked the clutch play before this ride, apparently there is enough pad surface to use up the slack, then after loosening still make the bike rideable.

I'll be interested in any info on replacement clutch plates too.


This was a Mobile posting using Tapatalk App

Thanks LostRider i will keep an eye out for any information on a clutch kit, Im afraid my story is a bit of a stupid one to be honest. I had a fall and my HDB hand guards must of moved a bit and was not letting the clutch release all the way and i thought the clutch was burnt out. Anyway i managed to get home doing about 30mph without knowing this was the problem and by doing this i have royally cooked the clutch plates :(

[cat]

:-/ Nasty....unpleasant.
I suppose that means you need new clutch plates, the friction plates. The only kit i've seen is the the so-called Honda race kit, that includes the ECU and throttle body from the CBR250R...but basically, all you need is the rear clutch plate from the CBR-R to replace the "judder plate" on the CRF250L. I think it has stiffer springs, too, or else the springs in the kit are something else - and there are also the springs sold on ebay by someone in Thailand. If you compare the two on a parts list, you'll see what it is you need to order.

[cat]

Originally Posted by Gypsyangel

Just to add as an afternote to anyone reading this thread, The CRF really does have a tight seating position. Much more like a sportbike than a Dualsport. I had been on it briefly before and never noted this,but after my ride tonight,really took notice. It's tighter than even the XT. Still not bad for me,but for the average height rider,this may even be an issue with the stock seat. One may have to look for a lower peg that may work on this bike.

mm, that's kind of why i was thinking of handlebar with less pullback.
I think the DRC footpegs have a -5mm option.....no, for the CRF250L there is only the standard/medium and the high +5mm.

Originally Posted by BlueLghtning

I guess in order to meet that price point, Honda had to skimp somewhere and the more porky bike was the outcome,

No, when you start stripping it, you see why it's so heavy. It's "built like a tank." So many steel brackets on the frame, the masses of stuff at the back, enclosing the tail light, and even those plastic pieces are a bit heavy. Although there are some light parts like the passenger footpegs.

[Charleston]

I'm interested to hear what you guys with clutch issues learn. I had to increase the freeplay a couple of times to keep my clutch from slipping whenever I jumped on the gas on a good traction surface like pavement. It seems that some extra freeplay helps as long as the clutch will still fully disengage.

[Charleston]

Has anyone installed a headlight modulator? I had to change my headlight bulb so while I had it apart I installed a modulator http://www.comagination.com/modBulb.htm. It works fine but the highbeam indicator now lights faintly when in low beam and lights completely on high beam. The modulator that I have was for an H7 bulb (2 prong) from my old BMW but I added a jumper for the 3rd prong (low beam) of the H4 bulb that the CRF250L uses. I don't see why it would affect the indicator light. Any Ideas?

[RockRacing]

Originally Posted by BlueLghtning

Since we just picked up our CRF250L, I can't say for sure, but I have yet to see a dual sport type bike where you couldn't adjust the shifter on the splines to give you some more room.

I generally find this is the case when you move to big MX boots, that you have to adjust the shifter to give your foot some more room.

I also learned recently a new trick that some boots have on them. Some boots have a small lip on their heal that is specifically there to allow you to stick your foot in front of the shifter and use your heal to up shift. It takes a bit of practice to get used to though.

My buddy has a pair like this and he does this a lot.

I adjusted my shifter up a spline as well and it gave me plenty of room for my Alpinestars.

I have found a bike that won't allow you to do that; my wife's DR200. I ended up ordering a DR650 lever since it's about an inch longer and will hopefully have enough length to bend it around the case.

If it works, I'll post the results in the DR200 thread.

[topping]

Originally Posted by Lost Rider

I just had the same thing happen earlier today, we're far from home and were in the middle of sand dunes when it started slipping.

Loosening the clutch cable via the adjuster nuts both on the lever and on the cable below it have us enough grab to ride home I hope. I had recently checked the clutch play before this ride, apparently there is enough pad surface to use up the slack, then after loosening still make the bike rideable.

I'll be interested in any info on replacement clutch plates too.


This was a Mobile posting using Tapatalk App

I have placed an order for a new set of clutch plates with my dealer with a lead time of two days costing about £55 in the UK. I spoke to http://www.crfsonly.com/ and they said they can get them too.

[Lost Rider]

Clutch replacement DIY.


Long story short, a friend fried the clutch while learning how to ride off road and in sand.... luckily loosening up the clutch cable gave us just enough friction to get home from Death Valley, with the clutch slipping in high gears for the last 20 miles.

After some research I found that EBC makes replacement friction pads and springs for the CRF250L, available locally direct from manufacturer but I have to place the order though this company, then pick up at warehouse:

http://www.perfectbrakes.com


Part # CK1313 for the friction plates and #CSK188 for the springs, which they say are 10% stiffer than OEM.
The steel plates are looking fine and are not warped so I wont be replacing them.
I'll be going by the warehouse to pick them up later today, $65 for plates, $10 for springs.


Here's a DIY of getting the clutch apart, it's pretty straightforward and took me about a half hour to get it open.



Drain oil, drain coolant through drain plug on intake, not much coolant will come out until you loosen the cap on the radiator, then it sprays out all over the place 2-3 feet out from the bike.













Remove hose







disconnect clutch cable, I used a screwdriver to push the lever back to slide it out







Remove brake lever, kick plate, and brake switch bracket.









Remove bracket that holds clutch cable, then oil tube or whatchamacallit.






Remove bolts holding engine case on, in a crisscross patten, Rotate clutch lever counterclockwise to disengage lifter arm spindle while removing the cover.









Remove bolts holding clutch plates in crisscross fashion and then slide out clutch plates.












And for you folks who like to stress/obsess about keeping the LRP tip top, I found this screen hidden behind the cover with plenty of metal flakes and what looked like pieces of case sealant from the factory. I guess there's a pre filter in our bikes.











That's about all there is to it, replace it with new plates and in opposite order, if I find anything while putting it back together I'll edit this post. Don't forget to change the oil @ 600 miles just like when new, the contamination from bedding in the new clutch plates is one of the main reasons for that first oil change.



-Finn

[Lost Rider]

Originally Posted by Balkan Boy

Ahh, the money shot. Well done.

It seems that clutch is a week point on this bike. Here are more reports from RideAsia. (They had the bike for longer then Europe and America.)

Thanks!

Honestly though I believe this failure was caused by inexperience and too much high revving, wrong gear while slipping the clutch. Brutal sand dune riding conditions with a rider who's never ridden in them.
Few bikes will keep taking what I saw without breaking something IMO.
If this failed under normal conditions I would agree and be exploring a warranty claim, but at least in this circumstance it was rider error that caused it for sure. There's a right way and a wrong way to use a clutch, high rev's in high gears and slipping the clutch isn't the way to do it.
Live and learn, at least the replacement is easy and relatively cheap... just glad we were able to get it home 250+ miles, could have turned into a real PITA.

[BlueLghtning]

I would imagine there is a gasket under that cover? Did you buy a new one or is the old one reusable? Looks like it would be good to check that screen early on and just makes sure its clear.

Originally Posted by Lost Rider

Remove bolts holding engine case on, in a crisscross patten, Rotate clutch lever counterclockwise to disengage lifter arm spindle while removing the cover.




-Finn