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Old 02-23-2013, 02:47 PM   #7441
BygDaddee
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Location: Brisbane Northside, OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
I did not check the valves on my 2009 690r until 6,000 miles-about 10,000Km and they were all tight and just barely in spec.
Yeah I'm concerned about doing an inspection on Cam Rollers and Cam Roller Bearings rather then the valves
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:55 PM   #7442
Bumpaman
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Re: Renazco seat fitment

I have just installed a Safari tank on my 2010 690 and am having trouble fitting my Renazco seat back on the bike with the tank on. The Olympic way to install the seat is to put it on with he tank unbolted and then bolt the tank down. I have the tank installed as high as possible and still be able to bolt it up, so what am I doing wrong? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:00 PM   #7443
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I'm pretty sure the Rally Raid guard had been sitting around for a year before the Sigutech group buy... check!

Rattle canned the guard and finally got around to it on this dreary southern winter day.

Before:



During:



Done:

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Old 02-23-2013, 05:03 PM   #7444
dad2bike
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpaman View Post
I have just installed a Safari tank on my 2010 690 and am having trouble fitting my Renazco seat back on the bike with the tank on. The Olympic way to install the seat is to put it on with he tank unbolted and then bolt the tank down. I have the tank installed as high as possible and still be able to bolt it up, so what am I doing wrong? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks
I have a Corbin seat and a Safari tank. The seat fits very tight under the tank. The front mounts on the frame & seat need to be removed. The previous owner also left off the tank bracket up front. No need for it.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:17 PM   #7445
Bumpaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
I have a Corbin seat and a Safari tank. The seat fits very tight under the tank. The front mounts on the frame & seat need to be removed. The previous owner also left off the tank bracket up front. No need for it.
Thanks d2d. I will remove the bracket for the seat.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:59 PM   #7446
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIsixfitty View Post
simple question (I think).

What is the valve check interval?


I checked the lc4/690 index but nothing jumped out at me.
6K miles. Every time my intakes were tight, When I got about 18K miles on the bike they were always out of spec tight. The 690's definitely a bike you don't want to go past the interval without checking. It's simple to do and cheap to shim when needed.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:11 AM   #7447
dad2bike
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Yesterday I learned why the rollover sensor exists.
No pics. However, my Ginger threw me to the ground in slow deep sand. The wheels ended up above the handlebars. Rollover kill worked great. I had to cycle the power to start up again.

I've decided that feature will stay on my bike.

I'm totally satisfied with how my forks are working. The shock need TLC bad. Taking it off to give it to the surgeon this week. Forks I can do. Shocks are wayyyy over my head.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:54 AM   #7448
dad2bike
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Made up a set of these this weekend. Worked good .



Sent from outer space with my Thunderbolt with Tapatalk.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:35 AM   #7449
Bill the Bong
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Need some ideas

I'm busy fitting the RR Evo 2 kit. After getting the principle bits fitted, I took it for a shake-down run. Everything was fine. Today messed around with getting the headlight aligned, getting fairings to fit and cleaned up the cockpit wiring.

When I wanted to take it for a run this evening, it started and idled fine. When I opened the throttle, it would either bog or flame out. It is possible to pick up revs when I open the throttle very slowly. Wicking it at any RPM causes a flame-out. It has fuel and no errors are display. All fuses OK.

Any ideas? I'm keen not to un-install everything.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:38 AM   #7450
Baja Dad
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what is the offset of a 2011 KTM 690 r

Top clamp part # 765.01.034.031
it has 30 top 32 Bottom stamped on the clamp

Is the adj offset realy 30/32 ?????

what happen to 20/22???
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:33 AM   #7451
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
I'm busy fitting the RR Evo 2 kit. After getting the principle bits fitted, I took it for a shake-down run. Everything was fine. Today messed around with getting the headlight aligned, getting fairings to fit and cleaned up the cockpit wiring.

When I wanted to take it for a run this evening, it started and idled fine. When I opened the throttle, it would either bog or flame out. It is possible to pick up revs when I open the throttle very slowly. Wicking it at any RPM causes a flame-out. It has fuel and no errors are display. All fuses OK.

Any ideas? I'm keen not to un-install everything.
Pinched fuel line?
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:41 AM   #7452
Bill the Bong
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I'm also leaning towards low fuel pressure.
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:07 PM   #7453
The Letter J
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Location: Santa Maria, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
what is the offset of a 2011 KTM 690 r

Top clamp part # 765.01.034.031
it has 30 top 32 Bottom stamped on the clamp

Is the adj offset realy 30/32 ?????

what happen to 20/22???
My bike is a 2009 so I can't confirm that, but... 30/32 would make sense being that KTM claimed to have increased the steering lock, as long as the axle clamps were pulled back the same 10mm the rake/trail should be the same right?
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:12 PM   #7454
thorinoakenshield
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Pissed Rear wheel spacer on sprocket side srsly pissing me off!

What's the deal with the rear wheel spacers on the sprocket side?
I had this problem before, and I kind of ignored it. Now, I'm chaning my rear tire again and I was determined to remove the leftmost spacer.
What a pain in the ass! I had to bang it out with a screwdriver and aluminum rod. I marred the spacer all up to holy hell!!



Whoops....not a big deal,really.....


Why was I so determined? I wanted to see how effed my bearing where.
They're ok, thankfully, but I did find some RUST!! Most bike aren't lubed for shit from the factory, and this bike is no exception....






Dammit. Atleast the bearings spin fine....
So then I greased those spacers up with some marine grease and attempted to stick them back into the sprocket hub.
It's a tight fit! What the hell?! I had to tap them in with a mallet kind of hard!!! This seems really weird. The spacers have always slid in and out for every bike I've had, including another KTM.
Is that what everybody else has to do??!!
This means that for the next tire change, I'm going to have to go through all this crap again!!
It's such a tight fit, I'll have to struggle to get the spacers out again (even if I lubed them up)...for rust cleaning/bearing checking and re-lubing.
This is how I feel right now:

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Old 02-24-2013, 06:52 PM   #7455
Head2Wind
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Location: NorthWet Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
I spent last night comparing the fork inners between my 2003 525EXC & my 690R. I'm so very happy with the plushness of my 525 forks.

1st thing I find out, the cartridge is smaller on the 690. Whoops. I guess this will not be a direct copy of the shim stacks. It took me up until late last night to figure out how the 2 different diameter stacks compared. Got It!
I found I can closely match my 525 shim stack functions with all the existing shims in the 690.

Other items to be figured out. My 525 uses .48 springs. The 690 .52 stock. I will give my old set 0f .48 from my 950 a run for a bit.

Next difference is the oil level. Hmmm, the 690 had 115mm, the 525 is 140mm. Any thoughts on a good starting point? I was thinking of starting at 120mm.
The research I have done so far and the very limited information available leads me to believe that the 690 stock springs are too soft for me (240 lb advanced rider) and the at the very least the forks are over damped for fast compression. So...from what I understand of suspensions: If the spring is too soft and the damping is too high, then the forks will feel harsh. If you go UP with spring rates, increase float slightly, soften high speed compression and progressively reduce bottoming resistance reduce the harshness at the limits of travel. I have been tending to start with 110mm air gap and add oil to get the best bottoming resistance, with the intention to work up to the best air gap to help reduce the progressive spring rate at max compression travel. I can state with a great level of assurance... my point of view on this is purely my opinion and is only based from learning and applying to my bikes. This tool has been a invaluable tool: http://www.shimrestackor.com/

Does anyone out there have a inventory of the shims in the different years of the forks and shocks that they would be willing to share?

EDIT: Oh, and as a side note, I have to say that the Factory rally bike that I rode (thanks Steve) before I got my 690 was one of the things that led me to really really want one of these bikes. The factory race suspension is SO AMAZING on fast stutter bumps. The faster the bike is ridden, the better it gets and it REALLY likes it when you are on the power through all types of corners, just CLAMPS the bike to the earth. freaking amazing. HOWEVER... the "public" version of the 690 suspension is very much NOT what the rally bike is.... the next HOWEVER is I hope that I can manage to get the WP suspenders close to the factory stuff...
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