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Old 05-15-2010, 05:55 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 1bmwfan
Where else can we bring our grubby, greasy, oily fingers to find out some information on a clutch issue only to find that we learn about computers?

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I never knew about the snipping. Just did it and BLAMO!!! Cool!!!
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Old 05-17-2010, 02:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by JRWooden
Well I would not have thought it ... but there appear to be several ways to screw this up..........

and .... as I have ALWAYS come to expect, the manual (Rev. #4) leaves me wanting more information..........

Right off I see:

Pic - 1) I'm not QUITE sure what they mean when they say install... wide/narrow drivers ... maybe this would be more clear if had the parts in front of me...

Pic -1) note the sharp edge of the plates goes IN ... not sure why this matters, and would not guess that this is your problem, but since you are in there anyway ... I'd do it like they say...

Pic 2 & 3) Note that some "construction groups" have a segmented thrust washer which might or might not be replaced with a NON-segmented thrust washer, or might be discarded completely as it indicates the new construction status does not use it?

It does give what I would call a "stack height" dimension well TWO of them actually ... 46.3 / 44.9mm so you could see if what you've got matches either of those.... If yours is thicker than 46.3 ... that would explain what you are seeing ........ If you discard the thrust washer it looks like the stack is supposed to be 1.4mmm thinner ....

Also ... note the F658GS has different shoulder washer bits......
I wonder if the spring preload is less on the 658?

Well I'm sure I've cleared everything up for you now eh?
right then, job done !!!!

took it all apart stared at the bits, compared it to the factory guide, may have had the steel plates the wrong way round ?!?!- sharp side out on a few of em! - the sharp side Vs the non sharp side is just the way the plates are punched out by a machine- if the sharp side is the wrong way it "may" cause the assembly to stick a little I guess.

the wide Vs narrow driver is to do with the drive segment of the friction plates..... the old one I took out had 9 identical plates marked 26g A5

the new unit has 7 plates marked 26g A8

these have the top drive sections approx 1mm narrower than the other 2 that are marked 26g A7

you can see the difference here


so you put the different steel plate at the back- really dont know why but whatever they say.

then one of the A7 frictions, then alternate with the rest of the steels and the A8 plates[all 7 of em], then finish of with another A7 but moved round one slot in the cage

the washers under the springs look like this on the 800, so you can have a compare with the 650 if you want

only other difference that I have found is the new kit came with longer springs- suppose a little more strength for the drive

Anyway it all works

many thanks for the help-

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Old 05-17-2010, 03:48 PM   #18
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Cool. I learn something every other day....

Originally Posted by sturgeon
Vista (and presumably W7) also has a "snipping tool" that makes this a whole lot easier. No need for PrintScreen. It's as easy as 'drag to select area of screen, save as jpg'.

Another option is to print to PDF. I think there's freebies out that there will do this (I have Acrobat Pro for this, courtesy of ex-work).

(Perhaps snipping tool is not in Vista Home Basic, which is just XP with a prettier look anyways).
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Old 05-17-2010, 04:27 PM   #19
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Cool. You can also use the rudimentary process of taking a picture of the screen, using the macro function on a digital camera.

Originally Posted by Motoriley
Cool. I learn something every other day....
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Old 05-17-2010, 06:16 PM   #20
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Excellent! I'm glad that's all sorted!

I hope I don't get round to taking mine apart for a while, but when I do I'll measure those shoulder washers and try to figure out why they would be different.

Interesting that the new springs are so much longer...
The wire gauge & number of turns looks about the same, but the standing height is obviously longer ... seems that BMW is making a number of small tweaks to the design as we move ahead here....

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:30 PM   #21
Nigel Tailyour
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This is what I have done too. My problem is getting the clutch cover back on again. I am having a lot of trouble with the plunger that activates the clutch. It is not "solid" in the centre of the assembly and as I put the cover on it simply pops back towards the engine and is "floppy"

How do I replace the clutch cover please?
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:02 PM   #22
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I've not done it,
but if I understand it correctly ...
the plates are not stacked in the correct order/placement that could happen....

This might be helpful:
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:03 PM   #23
yann L
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Am I stupid or drunk or just misreading the infos, but, 10 Nm for the screws that hold the pressure plate seem to me a very excessive force on thoses small screws. I'm saying cause I got the crankcase open to take a look at the frictions disks and now I need to re-assemble the clutch, I'm confused about the torque force to be applied!?!? I wouldn't like to break the thread or anything worst.

BTW, can someone tell me (to probably get me more confused) the torque force on the screws that hold the crankcase cover.

P.S. new owner of a 2009 f800gs and first post ever

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Old 02-24-2013, 07:17 PM   #24
yann L
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(Yep, my mistake. My torque wrench is foot pounds an da.Nm (not only Nm) Da. Nm was giving me 10 times the force I should use. Good thing that I was questionning myself before torquening thoses screws!:
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:58 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by CSL3 View Post
Regarding JRwooden
Tommy the cat had many a story to tell, but it was a rare occasion such as this that he did.

2010 F800GS
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