the DR650 thread

[doug s.]

Originally Posted by procycle

I'm certain the ring gap is the cause of the problem. I just put the top end on the DR900 Stroker Motor and the top ring had about .006" gap before filing.

Performance rings are normally sized to require filing or grinding to give the desired gap. There are lots of variables that prevent the rings from being sized precisely out of the box. The ring manufacturer relies on the engine builder to adjust the gap for his specific setup.

a little ot, but have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?

thanks,

doug s.

ps - about your tag line - do you really think the guy who invented the 1st wheel and the 2nd wheel were different guys?

[Harry94025]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

My theory is that since I didn't do the ring gaps, they expanded with the heat and pressure and scoured the cylinder and piston. This created some free play and the noise that was heard was the piston not seated properly.

Any other opinions would be appreciated.

Ok, I can see the ring gap being the issue. The ring gaps are very easy to set. Get a small fine mill file, hold the file tang in a vise, and run the ring gap ends on both sides of the file with light pressure. You're moving the work piece (ring) while the tool is held stationary...

Harry

[Thumper Dan]

Originally Posted by doug s.

a little ot, but have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?

thanks,

doug s.

ps - about your tag line - do you really think the guy who invented the 1st wheel and the 2nd wheel were different guys?

Perhaps the first guy liked to ride a unicycle

[procycle]

Originally Posted by doug s.

have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?

I have not had any personal experience with Total Seal rings but I did look into them for the 790 kits. They don't offer 'off the shelf' rings in the correct size but there are some for a .002" bigger bore that could probably be used. Total seal rings still have to be gapped before installation. Total Seal calls for a bigger gap spec - .0065" or more per inch of bore. That would be .028" on the 790. The feature that makes them 'gapless' is an insert that fits under the ring that bridges the gap in the main ring.

[Harry94025]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

My theory is that since I didn't do the ring gaps, they expanded with the heat and pressure and scoured the cylinder and piston. This created some free play and the noise that was heard was the piston not seated properly.

Any other opinions would be appreciated.

Planemanx15,

One last thing... Remember that the metal that used to be part of your piston skirt is now somewhere in the engine. I would check the crank and connecting rod bearings very carefully by rotating them by hand to sense any roughness. Remove the oil filter and cut it apart; hopefully you'll see evidence of the metal trapped there. Drain the oil and see if you see silvery bits of aluminum, then flush things out as best as you can. The oil cooler would also be a good candidate for a flush.

Regards,
Harry

[SkunkWizard]

DR 650SE 1st. Generation Owners Manual (1994 printing)
Free!

PM me, pay for postage and it's yours (USA only)

not a shop manual very good condition Owners Manual

1st person to contact me gets it

[planemanx15]

Originally Posted by Harry94025

Planemanx15,

One last thing... Remember that the metal that used to be part of your piston skirt is now somewhere in the engine. I would check the crank and connecting rod bearings very carefully by rotating them by hand to sense any roughness. Remove the oil filter and cut it apart; hopefully you'll see evidence of the metal trapped there. Drain the oil and see if you see silvery bits of aluminum, then flush things out as best as you can. The oil cooler would also be a good candidate for a flush.

Regards,
Harry

Thanks for the advice, ill be sure to do this.

[Garak]

Originally Posted by procycle

I just put the top end on the DR900 Stroker Motor

I haven't had time to keep up with this thread lately, but that got my attention! Can't wait to see how it plays out Jeff!

[Load Clear]

Hey All - First, I'd like to say thanks for all the advice and info I've gotten and read here. The best advice I've gotten is a) Buy the DR650 & b) put down the tools and walk away

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude? Sand storms are routine; as is heavy wet clay. Anything necessary to protect the motor and whatever else may be harmed by the sand and clay?

I have a 2012, completely stock.

Next week I am going to start asking about farkling it out.

Thanks

[greer]

Just posted a tank and skid plate in the Flea Market:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865833

Sarah

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Load Clear

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude?

The high elevation will transform the 'too lean' factory jetting to 'just about right' jetting.

[frecks]

So after suffering a catastrophic engine failure a couple years ago(that can be attributed to me not torquing things down to spec), I'm finally rebuilding my engine. My clutch pack appears to still be in good condition, but some of the aluminum shavings that were coursing through my engine seem to have gotten in the clutch pack. The clutch pack has also been sitting in a box in the garage for the past 2 years.

I'm wondering what the collective wisdom of this thread thinks is the best way to clean it and prep it for re-install.

As for lessons learned; Loctite and torque wrenches are significantly cheaper than crankcases, crankshafts, and clutch baskets.

[maynard911]

Originally Posted by Load Clear

Hey All - First, I'd like to say thanks for all the advice and info I've gotten and read here. The best advice I've gotten is a) Buy the DR650 & b) put down the tools and walk away

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude? Sand storms are routine; as is heavy wet clay. Anything necessary to protect the motor and whatever else may be harmed by the sand and clay?

I have a 2012, completely stock.

Next week I am going to start asking about farkling it out.

Thanks

Originally Posted by procycle

The high elevation will transform the 'too lean' factory jetting to 'just about right' jetting.

*1 on what Jeff says.
I'm in southern AZ at about 5200 ft and found the stock jetting to be close with a completely stock bike. After removing the snorkel I did raise the needle with a thin shim and it was about perfect. You will want to pull the plug on the idle mixture screw and get it set properly as described many times here.
I think that you will find that what you are calling 'sand storms' are really dust storms, caused by that same clay that you were concerned with when wet. The clay is made up of very fine particles that being light are prone to going airborne, especially in the high winds of spring, but are also a major concern when riding in groups as the dust will hang in the air for a long time. Regular air filter maintenance is important, and don't even think about K&N, stick with the stock or aftermarket oiled foam filter.

[Rusty Rocket]

anyone here having trouble finding the SeatConcepts website? I can't find it.

I get a weird redirect that doesn't have M/C seats.

[wee-twin]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

anyone here having trouble finding the SeatConcepts website? I can't find it.

I get a weird redirect that doesn't have M/C seats.

I just tried and same thing happened to me. Weird.