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Old 02-24-2013, 09:39 PM   #16171
phorensic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
phorensic: I'm located in Riverside, CA and have the same mods as you... Here are my TM40 specs

Pilot - 27.5
Pilot Air - 1.2
Jet Needle - 9DJY1
Needle Jet - Y6
Clip - 2.5
Main - 140
Thanks for the info!! Where have you adjusted the accelerator pump to? Does it touch the lever at fully closed throttle? And can you remember how many turns out your pilot is?

I had a feeling I need to put a 140 main in, they included a few mains with the kit. Although WOT top speed runs feel really, really, really strong, lol! It does shoot a bit of black smoke out when I rev it really hard over and over, but that may be because it is a pumper carb and it's not under load when I do that??
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:50 PM   #16172
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phorensic View Post
Thanks for the info!! Where have you adjusted the accelerator pump to? Does it touch the lever at fully closed throttle? And can you remember how many turns out your pilot is?

I had a feeling I need to put a 140 main in, they included a few mains with the kit. Although WOT top speed runs feel really, really, really strong, lol! It does shoot a bit of black smoke out when I rev it really hard over and over, but that may be because it is a pumper carb and it's not under load when I do that??
Well... to be honest, i'm not convinced that the 140 is perfect for me. i just have not gotten around to dialing that part in yet. I got it good, and have been enjoying it.

I have the pumper coming on as you crack the throttle, but there is a very small delay.

I dont recall where my fuel screw is at, I think it was 2 or 2.5 out.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:58 AM   #16173
BuRPsa
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Mitch,

refer Zoro's reply, he said it all. Tapered is indeed the way to go, the surfaces aren't flat at all. Also, use red locktite to 'glue' them in, you don't want them to sweat or leak. Clean screen & flush afterwards eh?
This mod gives enormous piece of mind oil-wise, seeing (whilst riding!) is believing.



On the TM40, I also have a little 'play' between rod & plunger, to leave a bit of delay before the squirting starts.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:26 AM   #16174
jtworldwide2
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On the TM 40...
I have a bit of delay (1/16th throttle maybe?) before the squirt comes on. I was having the same issues as you are having right now.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:55 AM   #16175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phorensic View Post
).

Now unfortunately my battery was dead from sitting and I think I was experiencing problems because I didn't have strong enough ignition until the battery charged up a bit....I think....

IF you have a battery it won't affect how the bike runs. It's run strictly off the stator. The battery is there to even out voltage at idle and keep your lights on after the bike. Separate system from ignition.

I jetted mine (still needs tuning a bit) at 3500 ft, but have rode it lots at sea level all the way up to 12,000.

27.5, 140, 3rd clip I believe, forget about spacer location?, factory nozzle shipped on powerbarn units.

It'll at least get you running if you havent figured it out. I had similar issues with it not wanting to start and run as well when first bolted up. It was all jetting adjustments.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:03 AM   #16176
phorensic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtworldwide2 View Post
On the TM 40...
I have a bit of delay (1/16th throttle maybe?) before the squirt comes on. I was having the same issues as you are having right now.
Are you saying you fixed it by putting in more "delay"? Or that you still have the issue?
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:07 AM   #16177
phorensic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
IF you have a battery it won't affect how the bike runs. It's run strictly off the stator. The battery is there to even out voltage at idle and keep your lights on after the bike. Separate system from ignition.

I jetted mine (still needs tuning a bit) at 3500 ft, but have rode it lots at sea level all the way up to 12,000.

27.5, 140, 3rd clip I believe, forget about spacer location?, factory nozzle shipped on powerbarn units.

It'll at least get you running if you havent figured it out. I had similar issues with it not wanting to start and run as well when first bolted up. It was all jetting adjustments.
I first thought the ignition should be running solely off the stator when it starts. I couldn't explain why the bike wouldn't let me rev it for about 3 minutes even with heat billowing off the header and radiators already. My theory was that the battery was so dead the stator was putting most the juice into charging it and I had really weak ignition. It was idling like crap and wouldn't let me even breath on the throttle. Then all of a sudden after about 3 minutes I could blip the throttle super fast. I think I'm just going to play with the AP delay for now.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:27 AM   #16178
jtworldwide2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phorensic View Post
Are you saying you fixed it by putting in more "delay"? Or that you still have the issue?
Fixed it by putting more delay in. You could probably accomplish the same thing by changing jets as well, but it runs like a top how i have it set up.

Just try it, it takes all of 10 seconds to adjust.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:37 AM   #16179
phorensic
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Cool, thanks for all the info guys! My streetbike did the same damn thing this morning! Maybe higher ethanol contents and all the moisture we have had recently got sucked up into my gas tanks? Oh well, whatever.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:42 AM   #16180
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phorensic View Post
Just put on a Mikuni TM40. Oh my god. This carburetor fixes everything wrong with this bike. I have a quick tuning question.

When I first started my bike with the Mikuni it took a long time to warm up and let me touch the throttle even though it was 65F outside. The second I barely cracked the throttle the motor would die. It seemed to run way better on the choke until it got warm and then all of a sudden I could start to rev it like normal.

First though? Pilot is too lean. Well, my theory was wrong. It ran way worse with the pilot richened up 1/4 turn. It actually responded better with the pilot leaned out a 1/4 turn from stock (idle revs went up, responded better to quick blips of the throttle).

Now unfortunately my battery was dead from sitting and I think I was experiencing problems because I didn't have strong enough ignition until the battery charged up a bit....I think...

However, I have a slight hesitation when I barely crack the throttle open and hold it open at like 1/32th opening. It might be because of the way I tuned the accelerator pump. I adjusted it so the lever is about 1mm away from touching at idle, so it takes about 1mm of throttle opening before it actuates. From the factory the lever was actually touching at idle and I didn't think it should be that way but I don't know.

BTW, this carb came prejetted from power-barn specifically for the XR650R, but I'm not sure what is in it because I didn't crack anything open and take a look and they don't list it. Other than those two very minor problems this carb rips! It's perfect! It's hard to keep the front end on the ground!!!

I live at under 1,000ft ASL, it was 65F, I have a K&N filter (which I want to replace with a UNI), fully uncorked, White Brothers E2, emissions stuff removed, still stock on everything else though.
Get rid of that K&N, esp if you plan on running a different filter and are in the process of dialing in the carb. It's recommended that you start at the bottom and work your way up when dialing in the jetting, main jet being last. It sounds like it's pretty close though. If you've found the best spot for your fuel mixture screw, count the turns in and that will tell you if the pilot jet is correct or too large/small. The Sudco tuning manual that came with the TM40 has a pretty good writeup on dialing in this carb. If you take a methodical approach to jetting the carb you can get it dialed in fairly quickly. If you decide to drop the main, raise the needle (anotherwords 2 changes at once) it's going to take you awhile. One thing I found, one persons jetting rarely works for someone else. The TM40 can be a sensative bitch, temps, alt, minor motor differences all play a factor in it. I'd have mine running really sweet one day, 2 weeks later we'd ride a few thousand feet higher and 20 degrees colder and it'd feel off. Good luck!
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:14 PM   #16181
Henderson757
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Guys,

Went riding this morning and have a upcoming trip too. Have some Kendra 270's on the front and rear and they were not any good in the sloppy stuff. ( sand, mud and hill climbs.) I need a great " all Terrain" tire. I'm not worry about wear on the highway as this bike is mainly for advrides and trail rides. So what do y'all suggest. I was riding really wet muddy trails today and the front had 0 control.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:18 PM   #16182
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phorensic View Post
I first thought the ignition should be running solely off the stator when it starts. I couldn't explain why the bike wouldn't let me rev it for about 3 minutes even with heat billowing off the header and radiators already. My theory was that the battery was so dead the stator was putting most the juice into charging it and I had really weak ignition. It was idling like crap and wouldn't let me even breath on the throttle. Then all of a sudden after about 3 minutes I could blip the throttle super fast. I think I'm just going to play with the AP delay for now.

I haven't read your first post with too much detail, but once again, your battery has NOTHING to do with your bike running. Provided nobody changed this, the ignition system is completely isolated from the your battery or ANY other electronics on the bike.

(not considering the wiring job done and grounding, etc.)
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:21 PM   #16183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henderson757 View Post
Guys,

Went riding this morning and have a upcoming trip too. Have some Kendra 270's on the front and rear and they were not any good in the sloppy stuff. ( sand, mud and hill climbs.) I need a great " all Terrain" tire. I'm not worry about wear on the highway as this bike is mainly for advrides and trail rides. So what do y'all suggest. I was riding really wet muddy trails today and the front had 0 control.

Maxxis DESERT IT's. (not the standard ones).

Not DOT though, nor will they get the mileage teh 270's do. People call them worn at different "rates". Ie, on my trip I did 9500KM's on the rear... trying to get the treads to show. Baja was 4000km's and they were pooched. You can expect a few 1000KM of good service though. (1.6KM/mile).

I haven't tried many tires, but they are way better then Pirreli MT-21's and last just as long.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:25 AM   #16184
Lostsaffa
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Anyone here have regular contact with Diane an Precision Concepts? I ordered parts in October and they have yet to arrive and emails are never answered on both addresses they used previously. Being in Australia makes calling tough, pm me if you can maybe help contacting her, cheers
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:51 AM   #16185
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Maxxis DESERT IT's. (not the standard ones).

Not DOT though, nor will they get the mileage teh 270's do. People call them worn at different "rates". Ie, on my trip I did 9500KM's on the rear... trying to get the treads to show. Baja was 4000km's and they were pooched. You can expect a few 1000KM of good service though. (1.6KM/mile).

I haven't tried many tires, but they are way better then Pirreli MT-21's and last just as long.
I found the same thing, the Dez ITs worked way better than the MT21s, we ride allot of rocky desert terrain that likes to chew up tires quick, the Dez ITs are my preferred tire, they seem to hold up to the 650s pounding and the fronts stick pretty good. I chunked the only rear MT21 I ever had in 3 rides, I tried their front and it dumped my ass more than once. They just don't stick well in our terrain. If I'm running allot of road like a big DS ride I'd put on a 606 (rear only), they don't chunk and hold up ok riding pvmt but don't have the off road traction of the ITs.
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