Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[UtahFox]

Originally Posted by skierd

Short of cutting off the top of the airbox and making a new floor/top, or wholesale rewiring the bike, not much. What are you trying to fit?

I'm putting a rally fairing on with a GPS mount and some kind of a power connector for the dash, and I'm getting a Juicebox.. I'm pretty sure I can use the battery tender for a vest? I think that'll cover it.

[henrymartin]

This is a follow up on my seal guard issue at 5k, where I stated my opinion that the OP did not do proper maintenance. Some here disagreed with me. So, let's see if the last pic changes your mind.

I got the swingarm and linkage complete off, cleaned everything well, took the bearings apart and lubed them with Maxima blue waterproof grease.

The stock bearings had some weird plastic lube sticks in there (there is a name for it) that appeared almost dry, so in went the pick and out came the plastic lube thingy.


Once everything was nice and clean, I got ready for reassembly.

Than is, until I decided that it would be good to repack the wheel bearings while I have it apart.

Surprise!

[isaac004]

Just wanted to share a few mods I had done recently.

First off, I installed some of these eye bolts where the rear foot pegs used to go. They work great for a tie down point for Giant Loop bags (I use a Mojave and a Coyote on mine). Yes, they can hit your ankles a little, but they do not bother me, especially since I ride in big MX boots (Sidi Flex Force).

For reference, I ordered M8x1.25 thread, 13mm thread length. The eye bolt hole inner diameter, while not critical since it's just a nylon strap that passes through, is 20mm.



I also mounted a pair of ADV Monster Model 60 LED lights. One of my buddies install his onto the fork reflector bracket that bolts to the lower triple clamp, but I could not get mine to clear my 2.7 gal Safari gas tank, even after flipping the brackets around. So I decided it would be best to bolt them up to my handlebar guards. This will keep the lights up high, allow them to turn with the steering, and also have a good spread apart so oncoming traffic can see them easier.

The lights come with a heavy duty bracket ($10 extra for heavy duty over normal), and I just had to drill one hole and supply one bolt/nut per side. Wired these up to a relay/fuse to come and and off with the bike.

I have not ridden off road yet with these lights, but when my buddy used them on his WR250R at LAB2V, he said it was incredible. I have used these on my F800GS at night, and I LOVE them. A very bright set of lights indeed.

[UtahFox]

Originally Posted by isaac004

Just wanted to share a few mods I had done recently.

Nice lights, those look pretty cool and I'm sure they'll be bright as hell. I like the eyebolt idea as well, gonna bank that one. :)

[pfy50]

Originally Posted by henrymartin

This is a follow up on my seal guard issue at 5k, where I stated my opinion that the OP did not do proper maintenance. Some here disagreed with me. So, let's see if the last pic changes your mind.


The stock bearings had some weird plastic lube sticks in there (there is a name for it) that appeared almost dry, so in went the pick and out came the plastic lube thingy.

Surprise!

HM,
It's called MPL a polylube that could have been left in. Read this article it explains it: http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

[Scott_PDX]

Originally Posted by isaac004

Just wanted to share a few mods I had done recently.

Good tips. I have my lights mounted low on the reflector mount. It's less than idea, snags on branches and gets too dirty. Think I'll try the barkbuster mount.

[henrymartin]

Originally Posted by pfy50

HM,
It's called MPL a polylube that could have been left in. Read this article it explains it: http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

I did see that before I opened her up, but the lube had some dirt in it, the bushings had a little rust pitting, and there was dirt behind the seals, so I dug it out to clean it properly. Solvent and all

Thanks for the suggestion though.

[rjnutt]

Eastern Beaver makes a really nice three circuit loom that with a little finesse fits into our available space nicely. He provides a couple of switched and unswitched
Variations.

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring...3_circuit.html


QUOTE=UtahFox;20802605]I'm putting a rally fairing on with a GPS mount and some kind of a power connector for the dash, and I'm getting a Juicebox.. I'm pretty sure I can use the battery tender for a vest? I think that'll cover it.[/QUOTE]

[shep546]

Hey guys, I'm looking at doing an exhaust mod before spring.

My bike is stock performance wise. I don't really have the money or desire to do a full exhaust,header,chip system I'd just like a decent slip on so my bike doesn't sound like an electric lawn mower.

If I throw a slip on and header on my bike and do the flapper mod do I need a new programmer? What if I don't do a flapper mod?

What about just a slip on plus flapper mod, would it still need to be programmed?

Thanks


edit: also has anyone heard of the "Bazzaz Z-FI Fuel Fuel Management System" ?

Is it the same as fmf?

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by shep546

Hey guys, I'm looking at doing an exhaust mod before spring.

My bike is stock performance wise. I don't really have the money or desire to do a full exhaust,header,chip system I'd just like a decent slip on so my bike doesn't sound like an electric lawn mower.

If I throw a slip on and header on my bike and do the flapper mod do I need a new programmer? What if I don't do a flapper mod?

What about just a slip on plus flapper mod, would it still need to be programmed?

Thanks

edit: also has anyone heard of the "Bazzaz Z-FI Fuel Fuel Management System" ?

Is it the same as fmf?

You can adjust the rich/lean mix with the built-in CO mode on the bike's computer. I removed AIS, EXUP, opened air box, and simultaneously installed an FMF slip-on pipe (no header) and changed to a K&N air filter

Once I accessed the CO mode in the bike's computer menu (you hold down this button, then that, then another on the instrument cluster - details are somewhere in this thread) it was set on minus 4 and I changed to a plus 2 or plus 3. That was 18K miles ago and bike runs strong and I've had no issues. It's never made any sense to me to pay for a programmer when my bike runs great without one!

YRMV

[shep546]

Originally Posted by GSBS

You can adjust the rich/lean mix with the built-in CO mode on the bike's computer. I removed AIS, EXUP, opened air box, and simultaneously installed an FMF slip-on pipe (no header) and changed to a K&N air filter

Once I accessed the CO mode in the bike's computer menu (you hold down this button, then that, then another on the instrument cluster - details are somewhere in this thread) it was set on minus 4 and I changed to a plus 2 or plus 3. That was 18K miles ago and bike runs strong and I've had no issues. It's never made any sense to me to pay for a programmer when my bike runs great without one!

YRMV

So you just assumed that was a good mix? How do you know if your mix is good? Just listen to the bike and see how it pulls?

[swimmer]

Originally Posted by isaac004

Just wanted to share a few mods I had done recently.

First off, I installed some of these eye bolts where the rear foot pegs used to go. They work great for a tie down point for Giant Loop bags (I use a Mojave and a Coyote on mine). Yes, they can hit your ankles a little, but they do not bother me, especially since I ride in big MX boots (Sidi Flex Force).

Do you recall the thread size for the eyelets? I don't have my WR with me at work and I'd like to get a couple of these ordered. Thanks

[DougZ73]

^^^^^ M8 X 1.25 IIRC. You can check fiche for the rear peg mounts to know for sure.

[swimmer]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

^^^^^ M8 X 1.25 IIRC. You can check fiche for the rear peg mounts to know for sure.

Thanks. McMaster has these in 304 SS for $5.17. Item 3100T11.

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by swimmer

Do you recall the thread size for the eyelets? I don't have my WR with me at work and I'd like to get a couple of these ordered. Thanks

No, you can ride the bike and adjust on the fly. Then whenever you've got it like you want it saves the last setting when you turn off the ignition. I checked the spark plug to make sure it wasn't too rich or lean.

Not rocket science.

Bike runs strong and I haven't had any maintenance issues resulting in many thousands of miles. Works for me.

But if you'd feel better spending $200-300 for a programmer, by all means do so. Just relating my experience.