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Old 02-25-2013, 02:36 PM   #76
MsLizVt
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Killington, Vermont
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You've got great support ... all ways ... always ...

Donnie, hi!

While reading back through this thread it occurred to me that you are getting great advice and help from some of the best 1100/1150 and knowledgeable people on ADV.

Mouthfulloflake - always thinking outside the box
MC Collector - great common sense
Vintagerider - king of fuel systems and conscientious preparation
Mudcat - very wise and great memory
H96669 - I think he can say "... been there done that ... with most everything
Dan Cata - He does say " ... been there done that ... and here's how I fixed it ..."
tjt94 - local knowledge and lots of it
Tuckers - years and years and years of experience
strsout - always thinking ... good stuff
scooteraug02 - lots and lots of history
mark883 - very helpful and pragmatic
fortrider - more invaluable local knowledge
Pukawai - great moral support
Vince - more good moral support
def - he can't even think about things without being technically helpful

This is one of the most amazing aspects to ADV, we all want to get you back on the road, and will share as much as we can come up with to do it, just because we can.

Amazing.


Liz
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:41 PM   #77
dwj - Donnie OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsLizVt View Post

Donnie, yay!

That's great that you figured out what the problem was. Time to take a big long deep breath, relax a bit, regroup, and slowly put this bike back into running order.

In the states Euromechanical is great. Here are links for the HES and Belt.

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOS...gnsen-r137.htm

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Alt...-4pk611779.htm

Make sure where ever you order the HES from that you're getting the one for the 1100. The connectors are different between them. The 1100 has a single row of connectors, and the 1150 has two rows. [if you had to, you can rewire the 1150 HES to the 1100 connector]

The belt that I just gave you the link to is the 611mm belt. Check yours to see if it's the same. The numbers on the belt should tell the length. The shorter belts are 592mm and 582mm. Both will work, as best as I recall, in a pinch, but if you have the 611, which you should, go with that.

I don't find a cup on their website.

Mike at Beemerboneyard is excellent to deal with. He has the HES's and belts brand new.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/12112306137n.html

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/daycoaltblt.html

I'm not finding a cup on his site, but that doesn't mean he doesn't have one. It's worth an email or call to him.

Max's BMW has the cup/rotor for less than $10.

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...8&rnd=08102012

The HES is universal on all R 850/1100 bikes, and the cup is universal on all R 850/1100/1150 bikes.

Is the tab still on the cup, or did it get bent flat or worn away?

Save the old HES and cup for me, please. I'll rebuild it eventually, out of parts from bad ones I have.

Can you take pictures, also, and email them to me, if you can't post them?

More yay that it's diagnosed!


Liz

PS: Did you keep the original fuel pump? If so, good, keep it as a spare.
I am trying to get in touch with BMW Guatemala and Beemer Boneyard. The tab is on the cup, the problem is that it was not glued on and the hole had enlarged allowing the cup to contact the hall sensor. The pick ups on the sensor were totally destroyed and laying in the cavity.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:42 PM   #78
dwj - Donnie OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsLizVt View Post
Donnie, hi!

While reading back through this thread it occurred to me that you are getting great advice and help from some of the best 1100/1150 and knowledgeable people on ADV.

Mouthfulloflake - always thinking outside the box
MC Collector - great common sense
Vintagerider - king of fuel systems and conscientious preparation
Mudcat - very wise and great memory
H96669 - I think he can say "... been there done that ... with most everything
Dan Cata - He does say " ... been there done that ... and here's how I fixed it ..."
tjt94 - local knowledge and lots of it
Tuckers - years and years and years of experience
strsout - always thinking ... good stuff
scooteraug02 - lots and lots of history
mark883 - very helpful and pragmatic
fortrider - more invaluable local knowledge
Pukawai - great moral support
Vince - more good moral support
def - he can't even think about things without being technically helpful

This is one of the most amazing aspects to ADV, we all want to get you back on the road, and will share as much as we can come up with to do it, just because we can.

Amazing.


Liz
Very true and thanks to all!
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:58 PM   #79
MsLizVt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
I am trying to get in touch with BMW Guatemala and Beemer Boneyard. The tab is on the cup, the problem is that it was not glued on and the hole had enlarged allowing the cup to contact the hall sensor. The pick ups on the sensor were totally destroyed and laying in the cavity.

Please save what's left of the HES.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:16 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mslizvt View Post
please save what's left of the hes.
ok!
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:24 PM   #81
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I am going to order the parts from Guatemala BMW. It is about $115 higher than Beemer Boneyard and includes a new cup instead of a used one. Plus that difference does not take into account shipping cost.

Now I need to find out more about gluing that cup to the pulley!

BTW, a $10 part took out a $300 plus part!
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:38 PM   #82
Vince
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Great news,intermittent faults are the pits.Happy trails from now on.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:54 PM   #83
def
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Donnie,

Don't overthink this gluing step. If I were in your place, I would just get some glue that will tolerate the temperatures that the pulley may see and use accordingly. If you're carrying some JB Weld, I would use it....just a couple of dabs to keep the pulley and HES shutter attached to one another.

I do not speak from experience inasmuch as I have never had the pulley off my 2001 but merely quoting from my REProm and based upon a similar thread I posted in several months back (similar situation...engine was running then not).

The pulley fastener is torqued to 50 nm.

Once you're up and running again, keep us posted as to your location and what you're doing. I would like to travel that part of the world one day. Is the food any good? How 'bout the liquor? Any cute women (other than Liz)?
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:05 PM   #84
dwj - Donnie OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
Donnie,

Don't overthink this gluing step. If I were in your place, I would just get some glue that will tolerate the temperatures that the pulley may see and use accordingly. If you're carrying some JB Weld, I would use it....just a couple of dabs to keep the pulley and HES shutter attached to one another.

I do not speak from experience inasmuch as I have never had the pulley off my 2001 but merely quoting from my REProm and based upon a similar thread I posted in several months back (similar situation...engine was running then not).

The pulley fastener is torqued to 50 nm.

Once you're up and running again, keep us posted as to your location and what you're doing. I would like to travel that part of the world one day. Is the food any good? How 'bout the liquor? Any cute women (other than Liz)?
I was wondering where I was going to get that glue. I actually removed the Hall Sensor about 17 months ago to check the wires, which were fine, the cup and the rotor were not glued together and I have had the moto since it had 28,000 miles.

I have been using SPOT, but I may be dropped, they say they can't use the Debit Card info I gave then to renew, and I know the info is correct. I will repost the link if SPOT is still tracking.

A lot a pretty women down here, but it is difficult to beat beauty and brains!
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:58 PM   #85
mark883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
...

A lot a pretty women down here, but it is difficult to beat beauty and brains!
Liz knows what a Hall Sensor is, and carries a variety of 1/2" / 13mm wrenches.

How many wimmenz want you to keep a dead HES?



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Old 02-25-2013, 09:25 PM   #86
BobLoblaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
I was wondering where I was going to get that glue. I actually removed the Hall Sensor about 17 months ago to check the wires, which were fine, the cup and the rotor were not glued together and I have had the moto since it had 28,000 miles.

I have been using SPOT, but I may be dropped, they say they can't use the Debit Card info I gave then to renew, and I know the info is correct. I will repost the link if SPOT is still tracking.

A lot a pretty women down here, but it is difficult to beat beauty and brains!

that probably contributd to the misalignment on re assembly. Just use some silicone to adhere the cup tp the pulley. After it sets reinstall the cup and pulley.. The clamp force of the pulley bolt will insure the assy stays put. The gluing does nothing more than help insure the cup and pulley do not get cocked upon reassy
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:01 AM   #87
MsLizVt
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awwww ... you guys ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post

A lot a pretty women down here, but it is difficult to beat beauty and brains!
... and grease under my manicured fingernails ...




Quote:
Originally Posted by mark883 View Post
Liz knows what a Hall Sensor is, and carries a variety of 1/2" / 13mm wrenches.

How many wimmenz want you to keep a dead HES?




Mark, you made me smile. There's almost always a 10mm and 13mm in my purse!


PS:(keep the bad cup too, for a bit of forensic analysis, please)
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:13 AM   #88
MsLizVt
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Just my thoughts ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobLoblaw View Post
that probably contributd to the misalignment on re assembly. Just use some silicone to adhere the cup tp the pulley. After it sets reinstall the cup and pulley.. The clamp force of the pulley bolt will insure the assy stays put. The gluing does nothing more than help insure the cup and pulley do not get cocked upon reassy
In my opinion, Bob is dead on with this.

The cup isn't all that complex, it's just if you blink for a moment when putting the pulley over it and on the crank, the cup can shift. The glue is, in my opinion, just to hold it in place while you're tightening down the crank end bolt.

My guess is when they put the cup back on, they let it slip, or trying putting the belt on without loosening the alternator. By doing it without loosening the alternator probably would save ten to twenty minutes in time, for the mechanic.

But it's easy to tighten up the bolt, and feel like you have good tightness, and at the same time, because the cup slid off center, it's being pinched between the pulley and the crank end. Then when running the motor, over time that cup is either going to get loose and wobble, or it's already spinning off center, which would have taken out the sensors. At least that what it sounds like to me, from a gazillion miles away.

Donnie, sounds like you have a good plan to move ahead, by getting the parts from the BMW dealer down there. How many days before you'll have the parts?
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:47 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsLizVt View Post
In my opinion, Bob is dead on with this.

The cup isn't all that complex, it's just if you blink for a moment when putting the pulley over it and on the crank, the cup can shift. The glue is, in my opinion, just to hold it in place while you're tightening down the crank end bolt.

My guess is when they put the cup back on, they let it slip, or trying putting the belt on without loosening the alternator. By doing it without loosening the alternator probably would save ten to twenty minutes in time, for the mechanic.

But it's easy to tighten up the bolt, and feel like you have good tightness, and at the same time, because the cup slid off center, it's being pinched between the pulley and the crank end. Then when running the motor, over time that cup is either going to get loose and wobble, or it's already spinning off center, which would have taken out the sensors. At least that what it sounds like to me, from a gazillion miles away.

Donnie, sounds like you have a good plan to move ahead, by getting the parts from the BMW dealer down there. How many days before you'll have the parts?
I will talk with BMW Guatemala this morning. The email I received last night said no more than two or three days. Guatemala City is only 75 miles from my current location. When my moto was in the shop there I ask about the availability of a Hall Sensor, as I understood it, they were none in stock, but it was within a day's distance. A warehouse somewhere.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:29 AM   #90
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If I ever have a HES that goes haywire, I'm gonna have Liz build me a new one....


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