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Old 10-19-2012, 02:46 PM   #61
zaner32
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Thanks to Oso Blanco for this. I'll have to do mine in the spring. I did miss something though... Can the races be bought with the bearings? Anyone have part numbers for the races?
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:29 PM   #62
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaner32 View Post
Thanks to Oso Blanco for this. I'll have to do mine in the spring. I did miss something though... Can the races be bought with the bearings? Anyone have part numbers for the races?
Races are included with the bearings. The only other thing you'll need to buy is the lower bearing dust cover, a BMW part which should only be about $5. The one in the bike usually gets buggered up (technical term) when you remove the bearing.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:51 AM   #63
betitolara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
The one in the bike usually gets buggered up (technical term) when you remove the bearing.
I managed to not bugger-up the bottom dust cover following the instructions from post #21. It took me 20 minutes of careful doing but didn't have to go to my local dealer for a $5 cover (for me, it's a 3 hr roundtrip to the dealer and a $30 ferry)

My bike feels 'normal' again
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:10 PM   #64
zaner32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Races are included with the bearings. The only other thing you'll need to buy is the lower bearing dust cover, a BMW part which should only be about $5. The one in the bike usually gets buggered up (technical term) when you remove the bearing.
Thanks!
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:38 AM   #65
leadingedge
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Thanks a million for the illustrated step-by-step.

Replaced mine today at 11000km, totally notched....too many wheelies I guess.

I used NTN bearings, MUCH cheaper than buying from BMW. My bearings only cost me US$15...for BOTH of them.

I also managed to save the dustcap by using a 4mm drift punch. It made 2 little holes in the dustcap, but I just rotated it a little bit and re-installed.

Thanks again for the post!
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:03 AM   #66
chinchinete
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Big Hurray!!

Thanks Oso Blanco and the rest for posting this DIY. Getting the lower bearing was a bitch: the two holes did not work and end up using Oso Blanco's chisel technique . Used NSK HR 320/28 XJ at $30 each. It is crazy expensive here in Central America.


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Old 03-17-2013, 08:21 AM   #67
Reaver
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Location: Tronna area, Ontario Canada
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Tips and Tricks

A belated "thanks" to all here. I did mine over the winter along with a fork oil change. My bearings were well greased and without rust but were bad enough to cause low speed steering problems while wrestling it out of the notch to maintain balance.

On that note, I have saved myself much time and $ by using a little trick. My GS Dakar was sold certified and had a steering notch I knew wouldn't pass. An inspection showed lots of grease and no rust so I turned the upper bearing one way a few degrees and the lower the opposite. This reduced the notch by half and placed it well to the sides of steering range. I now had two minor notches, one each way well away from centre. Passed no problem. I then did the same to my new to me F8 for cert. They lasted another 30K kms. The goal is to remove the notch to prevent steering issues so along with regreasing, a little turn will spread the wear out extending the life of the bearings. This'll get you more time to plan for the eventual change.

YMMV
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:07 PM   #68
Chop Chop
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Just about to do my head bearings. As an aside, would you consider that the torque figures BMW are using are too tight and hence putting too much crush on the bearings causing early failure? Just something a mech mentioned to me as he has changed a few out.
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:15 PM   #69
MikeMike
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I dont think so, seems more like undersized, poor quality and/or lack of grease at Spandau and the dealers.
Those same things can crate a perfect storm for the career of a porn actress, too.
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:17 AM   #70
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[QUOTE=Chop Chop;21120325. As an aside, would you consider that the torque figures BMW are using are too tight and hence putting too much crush on the bearings causing early failure? [/QUOTE]


I highly doubt it. Bearings that are too tight cause stiff steering and you'd complain endlessly before wearing out the bearings.

If you lived to tell about it.

Build it as cheap as possible and get it just a hair past warranty. Make minor adjustments in quality as required.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:04 AM   #71
JRWooden
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F800GS uses diff. P/N than F658GS?

In another thread someone pointed out that the F800GS uses diff. P/N than F658GS ... I just looked at the Max BMW website and it is indeed a different P/N called out for the 650-twin...

Why the hell would that be the case?
Parts catalog in transition?
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:50 AM   #72
MikeMike
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They probably changed bearing suppliers and prices.
Perhaps they are beginning to consolidate the parts catalog like the newer long snout oil filters as opposed to the previous stubby ones. The new ones are used on a number of different models. More parts shelf space for dealers to stock the Mini car fashion accessories like handbags, watches, lighters, and sunglasses.
You can get a BMW water bottle but you might wait 3 days for an air filter.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:41 AM   #73
JRWooden
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Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
... You can get a BMW water bottle but you might wait 3 days for an air filter.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:26 PM   #74
Mongo357
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All Balls

All Balls now has kits for the F800gs.

Steering Head Bearing kit (including two dust caps, one extra)
http://www.allballsracing.com/22-1024.html

Front Wheel Bearing / Seal Kit
http://www.allballsracing.com/25-1647.html

Fork Oil Seal & Dust Seal Kit
http://www.allballsracing.com/56-149.html


I went for all of them - gonna need them sooner or later.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:57 PM   #75
jengel451
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Good luck with All Ballz, I tried them a few times for my dirtbikes since they were a good price etc. Ended up spending the money Anyway as they didn't last. Especially their wheel bearings. They burn up real good.
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