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Old 02-26-2013, 06:59 PM   #76
dorkpunch OP
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The *brrrrrrrp-bbbbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrppppp* of the printer sure draws a crowd...

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Old 02-26-2013, 07:26 PM   #77
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I just finished mine, used an R1 extruder, the rest is custom.

The print quality is decent.

Software stack is Solidworks -> STL -> Netfabb to clean up the STL -> Slic3r -> Gcode -> Mach3. Non heated bed.




Here was my first test part. They got better but I don't have any images. This is really small, around 1".

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Old 02-28-2013, 08:40 PM   #78
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Took a break last night to go chase a ball up and down a court, and tonight to teach a community class... But still playing around a bit. Trying to trouble shoot some weird issues, so here are some bits of melted plastic!

Experimenting with two different programs... Left does poor quality but finishes the print, right does great quality but randomly freezes part way through.



Cups.



Keychains.



And just for the fun of it, a glider.



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Old 02-28-2013, 08:46 PM   #79
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nulluser- pretty cool! Print quality looks great compared to what I'm getting so far... Did you design the printer?
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:38 PM   #80
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nulluser- pretty cool! Print quality looks great compared to what I'm getting so far... Did you design the printer?
Your print quality is pretty good. The last little bit takes most of the effort.

Not too much design going on, I had some linear stages from another project, and just bolted it all together with 80/20. All long as it can position in 3D, and is fairly rigid, it will work fine.

I forgot to mention I used a Sanguinololu board for the temperature control. I used 4 cheap stepper drivers from amazon, and just run them off the parallel port.

If you don't know already, you can download a ton of stuff from http://www.thingiverse.com/ I recommend printing some calibration objects to make sure the extrusion settings are ok. It's really important.

The blue painter's tape works good provided the bed is good and level. A dial indicator clamped to the head can be used to get it perfect. You can shim with scraps of paper if there are no bed adjustments.

A solid 24V power supply also helps when you want to start cranking the speed up. This unit is pretty damn fast even with my small steppers, they are setup for 75 inches/minute. With a 20% infill it can make basic small parts in decent time, like 10 or 15 minutes.

If you are having trouble getting the first layer to stick, rubbing a little 'goof off' works magic. It kind of melts the plastic a little and makes it stick like crazy. Don't touch the build platform after cleaning, the skin oil sometimes causes the print to lose grip, which will warp the part.


Here is some reference:

http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/...tings-and.html
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/...ament-and.html
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/...w-can-you.html


And here is a steam turbine I did with it:

http://www.junklet.net/test/turbine4.jpg
http://www.junklet.net/test/turbinefront.jpg
http://www.junklet.net/test/turbinerear.jpg

nulluser screwed with this post 03-01-2013 at 06:43 PM
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:01 PM   #81
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Playing around with some settings...




Getting better.

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Old 03-02-2013, 03:54 PM   #82
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We have one.

We can make spiders out of Inconel 718.



Have fun.
Nice - Inconel 718 is a gummy bitch to work with, that is one material it's better suited for 3D printing / sintering. I send CAD for prototypes to a 3D service that prints and returns them in like 3-4 days, then send the approved part and CAD file to have the titanium casting made, beats the heck out of machining.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:29 PM   #83
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Here is one from today with a 0.5 mm layer height. I'm trying one that is 1.5 times bigger with a 0.25 layer height.

I used goof-off to craze the plastic. The material is black PLA. Model is around 2.5" tall.

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Old 03-02-2013, 06:54 PM   #84
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What size nozzle are you using?

Still playing around with settings. Here's another nose cone- this one from ABS. My nozzle is .35mm, layer height .25mm.



The bottom was poor, but it was still spitting out some of the PLA that was stuck in the nozzle. Once it was all run out it cleaned up nicely. Really need to figure out a fan to cool the extrusion so I can get a clean point on the top.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:05 PM   #85
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I'm using a 0.5mm nozzle. Waiting for the heated bed to try ABS, but I have heard of a lot of problems with it. Edges peeling up, and the part cracking. PLA is pretty forgiving.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:17 PM   #86
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Playing around some more... trying some more detailed do-maboppies. Now I'm having some random step missing- carriage doesn't actually move but it thinks it did so it continues printing, in the wrong place.





Very impressed with the quality so far- just keeps getting better. These two were printed with ABS- heated bed set at 75 deg and an acetone/abs slurry painted on. No visible warpage, looks great! If only I could get a print to finish...
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:35 PM   #87
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Hope this ain't 205.


http://www.wimp.com/printingchange/
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:37 PM   #88
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The best pic of the thread! Boy does good work!
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:44 PM   #89
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Playing around some more... trying some more detailed do-maboppies. Now I'm having some random step missing- carriage doesn't actually move but it thinks it did so it continues printing, in the wrong place.

If only I could get a print to finish...
Try disabling nonessential services and startup apps.

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/s...rnals/bb963902

You could have trouble with antivirus, defrag, windows, java, adobe, or google updates, or other things that are interruping your print routines. In a pinch, try booting in Safe Mode and then see if it'll print without barfing on you.

If it isn't a software problem, it could be interference with the motor drives. You may need to shield your cables, motors, or driver board.
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:24 PM   #90
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Thanks for the suggestions. Will look into it. Here's a sort-of review I posted on my blog if'n anyones interested.

Well, with a few successful prints under my belt, I think its time to write a few of my thoughts down. These printers are incredible machines. It is something else to draw something up in Sketchup, click a few buttons, jiggle a few switches, and then sit back and wait for an actual thingamajig to come off the printer. My wife thinks its pretty funny, but me and the boys will sit and watch it print- back and forth, back and forth, for hours on end. My students have been totally enthralled with it- anytime it's running they want to stand around and gawk at it. Maybe they just want to avoid working on their assignments? Nah...

Previous to this expereince, I had ZERO time playing with 3D printers. I did get an Associates degree in Manufacturing Engineering like 10 years ago, which had a fair bit of CNC experience, and that helped a bit. There is litterally thousands upon thousands of pages of information out there on the internet, and many different resources for setting up your own printer.

What does all this mean? Well, I don't know how qualified I am to review the Mendelmax 2.0, but here's my take on it. Given my background I would consider myself as one with great skills when it comes to the mechanical end of things, but only mediocre when it comes to the electronics / software end of things. I will admit- this was a HARD project for me. It took a lot of time and I had to do a lot of research and trial and error to get prints. I do feel though that as this specific printer moves from the beta testing process into a more refined package for resale, many of my headaches will have been eliminated. Many of the issues I have had have already been adressed, and as more people build and use this printer the support group and information will expand exponentialy.

As for print quality. Again, I don't have much to compare it to, so here's my take. From what I have seen, the quality coming off of my printer is excellent. There are hundreds of varialbes that affect the quality- type of plastic, size of nozzle, extruder, heated bed, design of parts, and on and on. In addition to the physical factors, it does take some practice and some skill to get the printer aligned and calibrated each time, and to know how to design prints to be successfull. It's all part of the huge learning curve. Again, thankfully, there is a lot of info and a lot of people out there willing to help you become successfull.

I full intend to use the heck out of this machine in the classes I teach. I don't see any reason why it isn't up to the task of running just about continuosly day in and day out in a middle school setting. Sure, things will probably wear out or need adjusting, but it's a well built, well thought out design that can only get better- that's the beauty of REPRAP's or REPSTRAP's- everyone can littlerally print their own improvements. Heck, I've already got an idea to adapt some ideas from a MIG welder to my extruder to make it much quicker and easier (without tools) to change plastics.

Can't wait to see where this thing takes me. For now, we'll call the assembly and testing done. Keep in mind I will still have to do the z-axis update when it shows up, and I still plan on doing a lot of posts here about how to set up prints, slic3r settings, different plastics, and other little tips and tricks I've picked up doing this.

SO. Lets call it an even 18 hrs. to build, test, and get some decent prints off of this printer.

I feel now that I've done it, this could be DRASTICALLY reduced- I think much more reasonable estimate should be 5-10 hours for the total newby, and possibly quite a bit less for the experienced builder with all the tools and know-how from previous builds.


And a few parting shots of the printer:

Some bling, both from Makers Tool Works and the school district...



The "finished" printer. Still need to make a spool holder for the plastic among many other things...

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