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Old 02-25-2013, 05:48 PM   #16
Beezer
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
Oddometer: 5,372
when I take my seat off it seems like I am pulling it slightly forward with my left hand & right hand on the key.

first thing to do on a Y2K is get rid of the original rubber brake lines if they are still on the bike. there are quite a few failures on the lines. they can look good on the outside but be coming apart inside. mine did about 2 years ago (apx 27000 miles on a well kept bike). I got front brakes that would not let off and rear brakes that didn't work at all. also got hunks of rubber in the ABS module & killed it. other than that... love the bike.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:35 PM   #17
Qben OP
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Location: Anacortes, WA
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Yikes!!! Sounds like a very expensive (ABS) and potentially catastrophic failure. That just went to the top of my list to do if it hasn't been done yet.
Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:56 AM   #18
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Brakes

Ok, got the bike and had a blast putting over 1000 on it (600 of which was fun twisties)! First order of business is replacing the rubber brake lines.

I found a couple options and was wondering if anyone can advise.

First link is a complete front and back kit for $170.
http://www.solomotoparts.com/Galfer-...BS-only-99-01/

Touratech wants $230 just for the front.
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/2...50GS-ABS-FRONT

Spriegler is $218 for the full set.
http://www.spieglerusa.com/brake-line-kit-161.htm

Goodridge $195
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodridge-BM...item3f20593d16

Galfer brand is $180

They look the same to me is there some reason the Speigler, and especially the TT are so much more? Anyone have good or bad experience with any of these brands of brake line?

Pics of the bike to come later today, and also several more questions.
Thanks!
Q
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:16 PM   #19
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Speigler was my choice. No regrets. If you intend on getting bar risers make sure to ask for the front line to be longer.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:06 PM   #20
Qben OP
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Location: Anacortes, WA
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Can anyone tell me about this plug. Is it just a general purpose 12v outlet or for some special purpose? It's smaller than normal sockets.


There are 3 switch positions on the engine kill switch. The first 2 are obvious, but I can't figure the function of the 3rd (all the way left). Anyone?

When I started my trip, the oil level was at the very top of the sight glass. Is this a normal amount of oil to burn over 1000 miles? No leaks.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...0E30765C0D.jpg

Thanks again!
Q
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:09 PM   #21
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Pics

Here are some bike pics -



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Old 03-03-2013, 02:33 PM   #22
damurph
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The plug is called a Powerlet plug and is standard to the BMW. You can buy a short adapter for it to power your american style cords. The one on the starting motor is typicly used for the battery tender hookup. Mine also has one up on the top of the beak alongside the windshield/dash area.
The oil level is something that takes some getting used to. The next time you check there may be a shade more. Why??? I dunno but they do consume some oil. On a longish trip i carry a 500cc container and if it needs a top up i have my grade and brand.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:38 PM   #23
PETDOC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qben View Post
Can anyone tell me about this plug. Is it just a general purpose 12v outlet or for some special purpose? It's smaller than normal sockets.


There are 3 switch positions on the engine kill switch. The first 2 are obvious, but I can't figure the function of the 3rd (all the way left). Anyone?

When I started my trip, the oil level was at the very top of the sight glass. Is this a normal amount of oil to burn over 1000 miles? No leaks.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...0E30765C0D.jpg

Thanks again!
Q
Plug can be used as as power source (heated clothing, air pump, etc...) or to plug in battery charger/maintainer.
Kill switch cuts engine when pushed up or down. Center, engine has electrical power.
Check oil only after engine has reached operating temp; otherwise a variable amount of oil gets sequestered in the oil cooler. Best routine is immediately after a ride put your bike on this side stand for 5 minutes (or longer, but at least 5 minutes) then pop it up on the center stand. Go away for a period (eg, just wait til next day before starting it up) and upon return check oil. As long as it is within the red circle you're good to go. Caution, oil sight glass on rare occasion has been know to pop out. I always carry a spare.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:22 PM   #24
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I haven't installed my battery tender yet. Was just going to wire it direct to the battery, but I guess I could buy a powerlet plug. From what you guys have told me, I assume it is a non-keyed power source (always on)?
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:48 PM   #25
PETDOC
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Plugs right in. No key needed.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:38 PM   #26
Qben OP
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Thanks for all the info - you guys are great!
I also haven't been able to figure out the headlights. I searched wisdom and couldn't find anything and don't have a manual yet.

I noticed that on a few occasions my headlights went into flashing mode. Every time it was by accident and I just had to mess around with it to get it to go back to normal.
My question is, what is the sequence of operation for the switch to go between various modes?
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:09 PM   #27
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Hey, Ben, I'm the guy from Tacoma who PM'ed you. You can call me anytime with questions. Powerlet plugs are pretty standard in the BMW world. The plug stays plugged in better than a cigarette style plug, and you can get sockets that are more water-resistant. Google around for "powerlet" and you'll see all the different products out there.

On those headlights, the headlights are not supposed to flash. Maybe you mean they are "modulating"? That means they sorta pulsate maybe around 3 times per second? If they are modulating, that means the PO installed a headlight modulator gizmo (best known brand is Kisan--here). This is strictly an aftermarket thing and not a BMW thing. Those modulators are only legal to run during daylight hours, so they have an ambient light sensor mounted somewhere on the bike that shuts them off when it gets dark. Maybe the sensor is being blocked and unblocked unintentionally by you while messing around?
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qben View Post
I haven't installed my battery tender yet. Was just going to wire it direct to the battery, but I guess I could buy a powerlet plug. From what you guys have told me, I assume it is a non-keyed power source (always on)?
Your starter is right under that cover where the socket is installed. The starter is connected to the battery by some massive cables because the starter needs to pull so many amps. The socket, then is connected with really short cables to the + and - posts on the starter. So when you plug into that socket, it's almost like plugging right into the battery. Definitely unswitched, which is why it's good for battery tenders and tire compressors. I lopped off the cig plug on my tire compressor and then wired in a powerlet plug specifically for this reason.
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