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Old 03-06-2013, 12:11 PM   #1
rattis OP
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Thumb Which

chain should i choose for my 990 Adv?
I really don't want best value for money but the best chain.
More money less worries,
And where do I get it?
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:04 PM   #2
geometrician
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Cool2 Chain Opinion

Renthal R4. Get a rivet-type master link clip & she'll stay on there until you cut the chain off. Renthal includes a set of wire spacer gauges so you can properly compress the side link on to the clip (which you must do if it's a rivet or clip type master). They also provide a set of gloves to make the sticky messy job a little cleaner. I have 13,000 miles on mine since last year- adjusted it 4 times now & not even close to being worn- you can't pull the chain off the rear sprocket at all. I use Belray & Motorex(road) spray lube and apply when I come in from a ride & the chain is warm as it helps the lube penetrate the X/W/O-rings & center dowel pins.

DID makes some great road chain as well, and some of their chains now come with a set of spacer wires as well. I use them on my KLR & EXC, they last well.

I use OEM front sprockets (w/rubber dampers) in both 16t & 17t size, though the 16t runs on the bike most of the time.

For the rear I recommend Supersprox, now also sold by KTM & included in their Hard Parts catalog.
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geometrician View Post
Renthal R4. Get a rivet-type master link clip & she'll stay on there until you cut the chain off. Renthal includes a set of wire spacer gauges so you can properly compress the side link on to the clip (which you must do if it's a rivet or clip type master).
Anyone have any pics of this "wire spacer gauge". Reading this made me curious. I assume you use it with a standard chain tool to peen the link.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #4
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Anyone have any pics of this "wire spacer gauge". Reading this made me curious. I assume you use it with a standard chain tool to peen the link.
Will sheet metal do?



Pretty handy gizmos.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:57 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
Will sheet metal do
Yeah, "compress the side link on to the clip" mis-terminology confused me. Now I've decoded it, I get it

crazybrit screwed with this post 03-07-2013 at 12:46 AM
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:49 PM   #6
David37
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IMO you can't go wrong with either DID and RK chains.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:26 PM   #7
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I've had issues with RK and Tsubaki. I'll admit its been years, but they both refused to honor their warranties, so, fuck 'em.

I won't use anything but a DID ZVM. And Supersprox/Sidewinder/Krause Racing, whatever they call themselves.

I put these chains on every bike I own. Rent all guy said 4 adjustments in 13,000. How about no adjustments in 20,000, on a CBR1000? No adjustments through 5 rear tires, never touched the adjusters, just yanked the axle out and shoved the wheel forward and pulled the chain off. That was on a Ducati. No adjustments in 2 years on a YZ450F.

Seriously, no exaggeration, best chain I've ever used. Didn't have the little spacers though, I press them together and measure them with calipers and make them exactly the same width as the other links. Takes a bit of time, but I never have chain issues.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:39 AM   #8
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Can please somebody explain how these spacers work? Still haven't got it!

+950 on the DID ZVM, it is simply amazing. Who needs a shaft? Just make sure you change front sprockets every now and then.
Also, I doubt that chain lube ever penetrates the x/o-rings...
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:30 AM   #9
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You put the shim/wire chingus behind the riveted on plate and behind the opposite side also. It puts the proper space between the plates so you don't squash the shit out of the o-rings, which is easy to do. You can very easily bind up a brand new chain when you expand the heads on the rivets, forcing the side plates in too far. That's why I do mine with a set of calipers.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corndog67 View Post
You put the shim/wire chingus behind the riveted on plate and behind the opposite side also. It puts the proper space between the plates so you don't squash the shit out of the o-rings, which is easy to do. You can very easily bind up a brand new chain when you expand the heads on the rivets, forcing the side plates in too far. That's why I do mine with a set of calipers.
I see! Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:48 AM   #11
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Can please somebody explain how these spacers work? Still haven't got it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXUPUzY3ixg

step 1: At 8:31 you can see he pushes the replacement master link in from the rear and step 2: at 8:36 he pushes the side plate on.

In the video it's not an o-ring chain. On an o-ring chain it's harder to press the side plate on and easier to damage the o-ring.

If you look at Mortimer Sickles pics, one of these spacers goes on the back side of the chain before the master link is pushed in from the rear (step 1), the other spacer goes on the front and then the side plate is pressed on (step 2). Then the pins are peened over. Then presumably the spacers are removed. Basically it prevents the o-rings from getting crushed.

At least this is my thinking.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:50 AM   #12
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Make sure to remove them before you ride it.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:57 AM   #13
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Wire Gauges

Here is an example of the wire gauges. I just grabbed it off google/images.



The spacer plates in the Motion Pro/etc kits don't work in all cases and I've found them to be too thick usually. Manufacturers have differences in component dimensions in plates, bushes, pins, O/X/W-rings as they shift material from one to the other to increase strength, reduce drag or stretching etc.

I'll measure the wire gauges I've kept and post the diameters

Assuming you had stable wire (like quality stainless steel safety wire not the crap from Harbor Freight) once you find a size that works you could use it. Soft wire will simply smash in a chain press, the wire included in the kits has been hardened.
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