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Old 03-05-2013, 06:12 PM   #3346
fxstbiluigi
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Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
Cheers guys, I will do some tit investigation when next in the shed I suspect they are solid. I have been using a foot pedal & I have down slope adjustment so I'll try tailing off the power more slowly.

I really should be practising the basics more on nice easy flat stuff before attempting all the changing join angles & section thicknesses on these fiddly lil bits of tube & bush, but the racks needed doing & are now ready for the weekends ride My next major bike project with the TIG will be a 3mm alu bash plate which will have lots of nice straight downhand runs for me to get dialled in on.

Clint
practicing flat will help get the basics down, and it appears that you have that, but practicing flat will do nothing for the constantly changing angles that are encountered in making a joint as pictured in your previous post.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:11 AM   #3347
Danjal
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Here's a good one.

Welding aluminum with a mig. Can I just swap liners and take off? Do I need shorter leads? Spoolgun? Push pull? The two boxes I'm looking at are a Lincoln 256 and a fabricator 252I. Thoughts on the welders too. The dc tig does nothing for me in the long run. I'd rather have an ac tig for aluminum.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #3348
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Originally Posted by Danjal View Post
Here's a good one.

Welding aluminum with a mig. Can I just swap liners and take off? Do I need shorter leads? Spoolgun? Push pull? The two boxes I'm looking at are a Lincoln 256 and a fabricator 252I. Thoughts on the welders too. The dc tig does nothing for me in the long run. I'd rather have an ac tig for aluminum.

Do a spool gun, push. It's much nicer to have a machine ready to do steel or aluminum without switching things around.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:26 AM   #3349
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Noted. If I ran a shop I'd have dedicated machines for each type. But,I don't,so 2k is kinda costly for a second box.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:48 AM   #3350
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The 252i is an interesting little machine, haven't used one, but the duty cycle at 250 amps is the same as the Lincoln with more versatility.


http://store.cyberweld.com/tharcfa25miw.html
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:17 AM   #3351
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Yes,it's an invertor machine too. It's only a dc box though,so unless you're migging aluminum is out on the tig. I've done my research and the reviews are good on it. Tested it's little brother the 181,and it's good too. The 252 gives a gas solenoid where the 181 and 211 are manual gas machines. All in all the Linc seems better built,has more parts support,but weighs 200 some pounds and is a transformer type. Lacks a few controls and adjustments,and no tig/stick,but I want a mig and ac tig. I can't go wrong with either for just a mig.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:12 PM   #3352
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Hiya Clint,

I've never had that spidering, either, but from the look of the metal surrounding the area, it's contamination of some sort.

One thing I HAVE had happen in my short TIG career is to run the Argon bottle all the way down to empty and start getting poor results. The regulator is showing the proper flow, but I've noticed that as soon as I swap tanks, the problem is solved.

So, just something else to think about if getting poor results after doing everything else correctly.

Keep up the good work, my friend!





Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
Cheers guys, I will do some tit investigation when next in the shed I suspect they are solid. I have been using a foot pedal & I have down slope adjustment so I'll try tailing off the power more slowly.

I really should be practising the basics more on nice easy flat stuff before attempting all the changing join angles & section thicknesses on these fiddly lil bits of tube & bush, but the racks needed doing & are now ready for the weekends ride My next major bike project with the TIG will be a 3mm alu bash plate which will have lots of nice straight downhand runs for me to get dialled in on.

Clint
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:25 AM   #3353
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Input Voltage/Amps

Recently looked at a Hobart mig with 240v input voltage. Specs say it draws 20. something amps, but has a 50 amp cord on it. Am I missing something on the spec sheet? I need to run a 240v circuit in the garage and depending on which brand I choose I want to do it correctly and only once. Do the popular brands have internal fuses/breakers that will trip at the right overcurrent for the unit? I know that if I install a 50 amp outlet I have to run 50 amp wire and have a 50 amp breaker, not a 30. Any ideas.

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Old 03-09-2013, 08:26 AM   #3354
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If you're going to run the wires anyway why not just overkill it with 50a?
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:48 AM   #3355
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Originally Posted by Danjal View Post
If you're going to run the wires anyway why not just overkill it with 50a?
I don't have a problem with running the 50a. wire, I'm more concerned with protecting the welding unit itself. If it's only drawing 20 or so amps, in the event of a problem internally where it is pulling more than that, I want the breaker either on the unit if it has one, or the one in the panel to trip before damage is done to the unit itself.

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Old 03-09-2013, 08:57 AM   #3356
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Anything worth that much money that doesn't have onboard overcurrent protection doesn't belong in your shop, period.

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Old 03-09-2013, 10:00 AM   #3357
David R
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Read the manual. It will have a breaker size listed.

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Old 03-09-2013, 10:24 AM   #3358
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Read the manual. It will have a breaker size listed.

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I'm trying to get the outlet done before I buy a unit. Do you know of any websites that have the manuals? My bing-fu is lacking.

Gordon
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:53 AM   #3359
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I don't have a problem with running the 50a. wire, I'm more concerned with protecting the welding unit itself. If it's only drawing 20 or so amps, in the event of a problem internally where it is pulling more than that, I want the breaker either on the unit if it has one, or the one in the panel to trip before damage is done to the unit itself.

Gordon
Quote:
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Anything worth that much money that doesn't have onboard overcurrent protection doesn't belong in your shop, period.

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Gordon:
You're looking at this wrong. My 60 watt table lamp runs fine even though it's plugged into a 20 amp outlet. Anything you plug in is only using the amps it needs. All that matters is getting the 120/240 correct. Run the circuit with enough amps to run any welder so you can upgrade later if you choose.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:06 AM   #3360
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Gordon:
You're looking at this wrong. My 60 watt table lamp runs fine even though it's plugged into a 20 amp outlet. Anything you plug in is only using the amps it needs. All that matters is getting the 120/240 correct. Run the circuit with enough amps to run any welder so you can upgrade later if you choose.
I've seen the results of equipment that was over fused. Not very pretty and really dangerous. My query is to why the manufacturer states a 20a. input and yet puts a 50a cord on it. I've been searching the NEC and I'm coming closer to an understanding as to why they do this. Duty cycle, max input amps and other magic. If I find an answer and can explain it without taking a night class in EE I'll put it up. Suffice to say I'll install the feed to the manufacturers specs. Looks like I'll be buying the unit first. Now the hard part begins.

Gordon
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