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Old 03-08-2013, 07:32 AM   #16
Katoom72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyD View Post
Years ago, my auto shop teacher said, "if you need a tool and don't buy it, you pay for it anyway."

No truer words have ever been spoken.
Rebuild my water pump without any tool that was required according to the manual. :)
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:56 AM   #17
Blackalac
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The motion pro 20mm 1.5 pitch is $9.95. Here

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0085/
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:04 AM   #18
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquanout View Post
Yep, what Kamanya wrote. Pullers and heat are not good to use on the ignition rotor.
Theres so much bad advice on here it must be ADV. Penny in the gears is really dumb,using prybars is really dumb,torch is beyond dumb unless Im taking apart a 40 year old scrappy bike,even then smoking a stator is a real possibility.

KTM parts are super pricey,use the right tools.
If you have 0 idea what your doing pay to have it done,can be way cheaper in the short and long run.

Ive got a Harbor Freight 40.00 electric impact that will loosen most any nut.
Rent or buy the right puller,looking at a shop manual can solve many mysteries.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:12 AM   #19
BillyD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katoom72 View Post
Rebuild my water pump without any tool that was required according to the manual. :)
Then that manual referenced tool wasn't needed in the first place...

Of course, maybe you just got lucky or took X times longer to do the job.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:48 PM   #20
gefr
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An old useful resurection

Quote:
Originally Posted by kamanya View Post
If you bike is pre-2005, just go to your local bolt shop and ask for the following;

A grub screw, 16mm diameter with a 2mm thread pitch. How long does the grub bolt need to be?
The large bolt is 20mm diameter with a 1.5mm thread pitch.

CAUTION
IF it is post 2005, then the grub screw is a finer thread - I don't know it at the mo, but someone will be along soon I am sure.





.
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:12 AM   #21
Peanuts
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Yeah, thats the key question.

The KTM tool has a shoulder so it does mot continue screwing into the crank as you tighten the large screw, so a home made version needs to be long enough to bottom out in the crank and stand a couple of mm out the end of the crank to protect the crank. I would also grind off some threads at the end to make sure the screw bottoms out at the bottom of the hole in the crank, not just bind on the end of the threads. Cant help you with the length as I use the KTM tool.
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:45 AM   #22
gefr
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Thanks

On spare parts manuals the #22 is referred to as : AH EXPAND. SCREW M16X35 8.8. Thread pitch is 2 for pre 2005 models. After 2005 they become M16X1.5
The flyweel extractor is M20X1.5 50mm length is enough.

The length of the KTM tool bolt is? from the photo it looks like 35mm.
Cheers.
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Aluminum base plate for ITG foam air filter
Clutch master cylinder resleeving
Out of office 25 till 4th August

gefr screwed with this post 03-07-2014 at 07:58 AM
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:21 AM   #23
keener
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How crucial is it to use new bolts on the freewheel ?
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:18 AM   #24
gefr
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This is nessecary only if they have gotten bent IMHO

I found out they usually do.
Cheers.
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Aluminum base plate for ITG foam air filter
Clutch master cylinder resleeving
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gefr screwed with this post 06-30-2014 at 03:25 PM
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