the DR650 thread

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by squidhunter

I put everything back together using loctite. No need to pull the clutch .

You were able to pull out the allen-head bolts to Loctite them without pulling the clutch?

[Carl Childers]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

You were able to pull out the allen-head bolts to Loctite them without pulling the clutch?

That's how I did mine, with the clutch in place although my 07 had phillips head screws that I replaced with allens which by the way were very loose at only 5k miles.

[Bronco638]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

You were able to pull out the allen-head bolts to Loctite them without pulling the clutch?

Me too. I actually switched, from screws to drilled Allen heads, w/o touching the clutch basket. Then, I safety-wired the Allen head bolts. There's pretty good access to one fastener, the other is harder. I made good use of my offset ratchet and Phillip/Allen head tips.

[shu]

Traveling south of the border now. Three 400 mile days of highway riding against a headwind- I've never seen my gas mileage so low: 37 mpg! Now it's back up to my normal near 50 mpg.

Crossing a pass: La Cima de la Muralla south of Monclova in Coahuila state.


Time for breakfast



Turned off the highway and got onto some nice dirt roads on the way to Galeana, Nuevo Leon.


DR's running great. I'm going to put on the 14T sprocket for better dirt riding this morning.

................shu

[Carl Childers]

GO SHU GO! Man I wish I was doing something like that right now!


Question: What tank pouches are you using? I like'm.

[TRAVELGUY]

I stayed 5 or so days in Galeana in October of 08. Very much enjoyed staying there. People were very friendly and helpful.. The most motorcycle friendly town I have ever traveled to in any country. Hope you have the same experience.

TravelGuy

Turned off the highway and got onto some nice dirt roads on the way to Galeana, Nuevo Leon.


DR's running great. I'm going to put on the 14T sprocket for better dirt riding this morning.

................shu[/QUOTE]

[rpet]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

so, as a compromise tire, which gives the the better offroad grip,
Shinko 244 or Kenda 270?

Looking for something that will last longer than a full knobby, but retain as much grip in dirty situations as possible.

Since I have an 18" wheel avail, I'm even thinking about Pirelli MT43.

Dang I want to try the MT43 too, but maybe you can go first and post results.

[squidhunter]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

You were able to pull out the allen-head bolts to Loctite them without pulling the clutch?

Yep, it wasn't hard. I used a short Allen wrench small enough to fit under the clutch assembly to break it loose, then a longer one with a ball end to take it the rest of the way out. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. You can see what you're doing easily enough if you lay the bike on its side. Took me a few maybe 10 minutes to do both screws with time to clean the threads. It might be a bit trickier with a Phillips screw, but it can be done. I've gotten into tighter spots. I don't see any need to pull the clutch for this job.

[CafeRacer]

Hi guys - I'm one of the few people who gets to break in a DR motor. Thanks to some factory money and 0% financing, a new 2012 followed me home yesterday.

Can we talk about stock jetting though? The bike runs like crap. It bogs off idle and surges. After riding it to a buddy's house, it had a hard time starting and once running would die with any throttle (it was a little cold out).

I'm currently looking through 5000 pages of DR knowledge, but while I do, anyone have some ideas?

[greener556]

Originally Posted by CafeRacer

Hi guys - I'm one of the few people who gets to break in a DR motor. Thanks to some factory money and 0% financing, a new 2012 followed me home yesterday.

Can we talk about stock jetting though? The bike runs like crap. It bogs off idle and surges. After riding it to a buddy's house, it had a hard time starting and once running would die with any throttle (it was a little cold out).

I'm currently looking through 5000 pages of DR knowledge, but while I do, anyone have some ideas?

Here's a link to the DR650 index. Shimming the needle and getting a longer fuel mixture screw will help a lot. You'll need to open up the airbox if you re-jet the bike.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

[trailrider383]

Originally Posted by CafeRacer

Hi guys - I'm one of the few people who gets to break in a DR motor. Thanks to some factory money and 0% financing, a new 2012 followed me home yesterday.

Can we talk about stock jetting though? The bike runs like crap. It bogs off idle and surges. After riding it to a buddy's house, it had a hard time starting and once running would die with any throttle (it was a little cold out).

I'm currently looking through 5000 pages of DR knowledge, but while I do, anyone have some ideas?

It has a warranty, take it back to the dealer and have them clean the carb. That level of running problems isn't from stock jetting.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by greener556

Shimming the needle and getting a longer fuel mixture screw will help a lot.

Shimming the needle clip richens the mixture by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring. Unless the intention is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm (except when against the stops), I would recommend installing an adjustable needle instead.

An extended fuel screw is only required when the bike will be ridden at radically varying altitudes. If not, there should be no need to fiddle with the fuel screw constantly, negating the need.

You'll need to open up the airbox if you re-jet the bike.

There is no reason you can't jet a carburetor to suit an unmolested airbox.

Regards,

Derek

[greener556]

Originally Posted by motolab

Shimming the needle clip richens the mixture by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring. Unless the intention is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm (except when against the stops), I would recommend installing an adjustable needle instead.

An extended fuel screw is only required when the bike will be ridden at radically varying altitudes. If not, there should be no need to fiddle with the fuel screw constantly, negating the need.

There is no reason you can't jet a carburetor to suit an unmolested airbox.

Regards,

Derek

I plan on taking my carb off in the next week or so. What suggestions do you have for making the bike run smoother? I'm not necessarily looking for more power, just a better running bike.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by greener556

I plan on taking my carb off in the next week or so. What suggestions do you have for making the bike run smoother? I'm not necessarily looking for more power, just a better running bike.

What symptoms/misbehavior are you looking to cure? What modifications have been performed so far?

Regards,

Derek

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by rpet

Dang I want to try the MT43 too, but maybe you can go first and post results.

I have it on my KTM 400. great in everything except clay like mud. Really hooks up on wet rocks though.

I worry that with the low pressures and beeing on a heavy bike, the longer road sections may cause chunking. Might just have to run 15psi or more, ruining it's effectiveness.