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Old 03-10-2013, 12:18 PM   #74551
CafeRacer
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Hi guys - I'm one of the few people who gets to break in a DR motor. Thanks to some factory money and 0% financing, a new 2012 followed me home yesterday.

Can we talk about stock jetting though? The bike runs like crap. It bogs off idle and surges. After riding it to a buddy's house, it had a hard time starting and once running would die with any throttle (it was a little cold out).

I'm currently looking through 5000 pages of DR knowledge, but while I do, anyone have some ideas?
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:24 PM   #74552
greener556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeRacer View Post
Hi guys - I'm one of the few people who gets to break in a DR motor. Thanks to some factory money and 0% financing, a new 2012 followed me home yesterday.

Can we talk about stock jetting though? The bike runs like crap. It bogs off idle and surges. After riding it to a buddy's house, it had a hard time starting and once running would die with any throttle (it was a little cold out).

I'm currently looking through 5000 pages of DR knowledge, but while I do, anyone have some ideas?
Here's a link to the DR650 index. Shimming the needle and getting a longer fuel mixture screw will help a lot. You'll need to open up the airbox if you re-jet the bike.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:36 PM   #74553
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeRacer View Post
Hi guys - I'm one of the few people who gets to break in a DR motor. Thanks to some factory money and 0% financing, a new 2012 followed me home yesterday.

Can we talk about stock jetting though? The bike runs like crap. It bogs off idle and surges. After riding it to a buddy's house, it had a hard time starting and once running would die with any throttle (it was a little cold out).

I'm currently looking through 5000 pages of DR knowledge, but while I do, anyone have some ideas?
It has a warranty, take it back to the dealer and have them clean the carb. That level of running problems isn't from stock jetting.
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:48 PM   #74554
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greener556 View Post
Shimming the needle and getting a longer fuel mixture screw will help a lot.
Shimming the needle clip richens the mixture by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring. Unless the intention is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm (except when against the stops), I would recommend installing an adjustable needle instead.

An extended fuel screw is only required when the bike will be ridden at radically varying altitudes. If not, there should be no need to fiddle with the fuel screw constantly, negating the need.

Quote:
You'll need to open up the airbox if you re-jet the bike.
There is no reason you can't jet a carburetor to suit an unmolested airbox.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:58 PM   #74555
greener556
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Shimming the needle clip richens the mixture by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring. Unless the intention is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm (except when against the stops), I would recommend installing an adjustable needle instead.

An extended fuel screw is only required when the bike will be ridden at radically varying altitudes. If not, there should be no need to fiddle with the fuel screw constantly, negating the need.

There is no reason you can't jet a carburetor to suit an unmolested airbox.

Regards,

Derek
I plan on taking my carb off in the next week or so. What suggestions do you have for making the bike run smoother? I'm not necessarily looking for more power, just a better running bike.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:15 PM   #74556
motolab
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Originally Posted by greener556 View Post
I plan on taking my carb off in the next week or so. What suggestions do you have for making the bike run smoother? I'm not necessarily looking for more power, just a better running bike.
What symptoms/misbehavior are you looking to cure? What modifications have been performed so far?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:21 PM   #74557
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Dang I want to try the MT43 too, but maybe you can go first and post results.
I have it on my KTM 400. great in everything except clay like mud. Really hooks up on wet rocks though.

I worry that with the low pressures and beeing on a heavy bike, the longer road sections may cause chunking. Might just have to run 15psi or more, ruining it's effectiveness.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:26 PM   #74558
greener556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
What symptoms/misbehavior are you looking to cure? What modifications have been performed so far?

Regards,

Derek
Bike surges at lower RPM's is the main issue. Bike is really cold blooded, not sure if that can be fixed. Snorkel has been removed, GSXR muffler mod in the works.

Leaning towards this guys solution: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:41 PM   #74559
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I have it on my KTM 400. great in everything except clay like mud. Really hooks up on wet rocks though.

I worry that with the low pressures and beeing on a heavy bike, the longer road sections may cause chunking. Might just have to run 15psi or more, ruining it's effectiveness.
I carry a pump.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:43 PM   #74560
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greener556 View Post
Bike surges at lower RPM's is the main issue. Bike is really cold blooded, not sure if that can be fixed. Snorkel has been removed, GSXR muffler mod in the works.

Leaning towards this guys solution: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71
If you've removed the snorkel, then you really need to raise the needle a tad and adjust the mixture screw to suit.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:52 PM   #74561
barko1
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Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
it has a warranty, take it back to the dealer and have them clean the carb. That level of running problems isn't from stock jetting.

+1
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:56 PM   #74562
Kommando
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
thanks for the numbers but how the beck do you get the wheel back in after a Cush rubber replacement??
I used silicon lubricant for rubber. My back wheel slid right back into place. I find the stuff at Autozone.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:17 PM   #74563
Kommando
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Kenda has gotten some good mileage out of the K761 rear because they designed in a center rear bar (like Heidenau does with 140 & 150 K60) that provide long life right down the middle.

You can see it here on the left tire pic.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...9QEwBg&dur=516.

The Big Block was all knobs and shorter ones at that.
To fix their fast wear problems they'll either need better rubber (but I doubt if they have the technology as were talking Chinese cheap here) or just add a center rubber wear strip (the cheap fix).


If you start studying a K761 and a Heidenau K60 you see they are using the same general tread design idea.
The K761 would make a good rear tire for a mullet combo, but I'd still put $ on this one if you need to go the distance on a long tour:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
I use a grooving iron to cut the center bar out...and the K761s still run over 6K miles for me...2up, and I don't run them bald. I could probably spoon them back on for another 1K or so without issue. They aren't the best wet-weather or dirt tire in un-cut form, but the grooving iron can make them competent enough to get around in some nasty conditions. They made a pretty good mullet rear for weekday commuting/weekend dirtbiking.

Has anybody heard of any dual-compound dualsport tires? A 10K-mile Trackmaster II would be sweet!

I'm pretty happy with the K270 rear so far. It runs dirt, gravel, sand, light mud, and pavement without issue. If it lasts at least as long as the K761, I'll be happy with it. I can see how the K270 front could feel squirmy when new and/or leaned over though, so I'm sticking with the cheap and grippy Shinko 244 front, with it's supported sidelugs, for street.

Surprisingly, my AMS Sand Snake front knobby still corners well in the sand and mud. Going down the slab, the center knobs take most of the wear, and they seem to be able to handle it pretty darn well. For $22, I've more than gotten my money's worth out of this tire. I just don't try to corner it like a sportbike tire.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:27 PM   #74564
Kommando
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
so, as a compromise tire, which gives the the better offroad grip,
Shinko 244 or Kenda 270?

Looking for something that will last longer than a full knobby, but retain as much grip in dirty situations as possible.

Since I have an 18" wheel avail, I'm even thinking about Pirelli MT43.
The Kenda K270 rear has more open voids and deeper tread than the Shinko 244. Reports also indicate that it lasts longer, with several reports of 10K+ miles existing. The K270 front is not as well-liked for pavement cornering. The cheap 244 front feels pretty good on pavement though.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:29 PM   #74565
dman
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Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
I had one where it was removed due to being noisy at speed. When I got my newer dr, it really was. I ran full speed up and down the mountains with no chain guide and it was unnerving to hear the chain hit the swing arm.
Just to be clear, I'm talking about the rear lower guide, not the OEM upper front roller. Well, since mine is missing, I may be wrong .... but I assume the stock rear lower guide is just a slider not a roller. Since it's plastic I assume it wouldn't make much if any noise??? (as opposed to a worn/dirty roller's bearing or bushing that would be noisy and/or frozen solid.

-dman
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