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Old 03-05-2013, 01:33 PM   #211
SUMORYDR
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Jeremy at Factory Connection called the rear shock a "throwaway" shock and said they don't carry anything for it ( no spring ).

Louie at Race Tech said "Just buy the new Race Tech shock ($870) and don't worry about the spring".

After some conversation Louie had me download their "Shock Spring Fit Data Sheet" and asked me to do some measuring and get back with him. I don't have those exact measurements and no plan to disassemble the rear portion of the bike just to get measurements and hope for the best.

If anyone has exact measurements of our rear shock please reach out to me and I will put those down on the form and send it out to see if there is anything that matches the sizes. If you'd like to see the form I am talking about shoot me a PM with your e-mail addy or phone number and I will text it over to you or fire it over to your e-mail A.S.A.P. ( it will be in pdf format ).

Steve
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:12 PM   #212
Ferdinand
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Anyone do any easy backroad/trailrides with a passenger on back just wondering how bad it would be on a 230l. Don't plan on go fast or being in a hurry.

Ferdinand screwed with this post 03-06-2013 at 08:25 AM
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:34 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdinand View Post
Anyone do any easy backroad/trailrides with a passenger on back just wondering how bad it would be on a 230l. Don't plan on go fasting or being in a hurry.
I helped haul a fellow out on some moderately gnarly trails after he holed the oil filter cover on his XR250. When it got too steep I had to give him to the other fellow as we were doing wheelies bouncing up the switchbacks.

Total load was ~350 pounds. Bike did fine with 5 miles of that and 20 miles of pavement with the passenger.

It was definitely uncomfortable for him.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:24 AM   #214
Ferdinand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsonder View Post
I helped haul a fellow out on some moderately gnarly trails after he holed the oil filter cover on his XR250. When it got too steep I had to give him to the other fellow as we were doing wheelies bouncing up the switchbacks.

Total load was ~350 pounds. Bike did fine with 5 miles of that and 20 miles of pavement with the passenger.

It was definitely uncomfortable for him.

Thanks I was looking at around 280 for two + weight of gear so might not be too bad for short jaunts I've got a heavily modded seat widened and gel inserts too so that always helps with the rears
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:02 AM   #215
PineyMountainRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUMORYDR View Post
Jeremy at Factory Connection called the rear shock a "throwaway" shock and said they don't carry anything for it ( no spring ).

Louie at Race Tech said "Just buy the new Race Tech shock ($870) and don't worry about the spring".

After some conversation Louie had me download their "Shock Spring Fit Data Sheet" and asked me to do some measuring and get back with him. I don't have those exact measurements and no plan to disassemble the rear portion of the bike just to get measurements and hope for the best.

If anyone has exact measurements of our rear shock please reach out to me and I will put those down on the form and send it out to see if there is anything that matches the sizes. If you'd like to see the form I am talking about shoot me a PM with your e-mail addy or phone number and I will text it over to you or fire it over to your e-mail A.S.A.P. ( it will be in pdf format ).

Steve
I didn't get a chance to post up but I called Factory Connection yesterday, and no dice. I tried FBI but didn't get through, curious how the spring Dave is talking about differs from the standard?

Personally, I'm going with the Race Tec, I need 1000 worth of shock on my 2000 bike LOL.

PMR
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:38 AM   #216
SUMORYDR
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Yeah I actually wondered the same thing but I'm trying to stay away from that $1K rear shock..... can't justify that.

Of course I am still wondering about the 82-84 XR200 rear swap. I checked around for aftermarket shocks for the XR200 and found a bunch of stuff out there for it. Also, Progressive Suspension makes the whole set up for the XR200 but it comes as a pair ( 2 shocks ). My only problem with that is how do we know ( FOR SURE ) that the swap is a plug and play swap?

Has anyone taken the shock out of their 230L and just bolted in an XR200 shock?
Was it as easy as unbolting one and bolting up the other?
Any plate needed to be welded in?
Any tabs need to be welded in?
Anything extra needed (shims, extra washers, etc.)?

Anybody?

Again, I've got the forms from Race Tech but I do not have the exact information about our 230L shock ( never had mine off ). If we can figure out the XR200 swap then we may be in business with Progressive Suspension but until we know something from someone who has tried it we are at a standstill. I hate that the dedicated CRF230L forum went down. I hate it...
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:46 AM   #217
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I read about the XR swap last year, I'm not sure it's a bolt in deal. If Dave has a 100 dollar spring that has a higher rate than stock, I would go that way. Race Tec will be more than 100 pretty sure.

btw, there wasn't much suspension info on the 230L site
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:14 AM   #218
SUMORYDR
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Yeah I never did find a whole bunch of suspension info about the LRP but one thing that I did find yesterday was a link to a site that has done a buuuuuuunch of 230L work (motor/suspension/etc.).

Frank at www.xr100.com ("Engines Only") helped me out alot and gave me some useful information. Seems like the CRF150 and the 230 have a bunch in common. Check out their site for full suspension info. I looked it over for about an hour yesterday and then called Frank ( 408-275-6300 ) to talk some stuff over with him. Pretty dam good folks over there..... for West Coast folks.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:33 PM   #219
Ferdinand
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2up on the 230l

I had the 230l out with the girlfriend on the back yesterday for about 20 miles of backroads. The bike did surprisingly well. It still rolled 55-60mph with little effort just to see what it could do. I'm about 165 gf about 120.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:56 PM   #220
SUMORYDR
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Dang, nothing in almost a month.... I guess that people are right "Nobody rides a 230L". Either that or they are all too busy riding to post on here. I like to think that it is the latter of the two...


Still loving mine!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:42 PM   #221
PineyMountainRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUMORYDR View Post
Dang, nothing in almost a month.... I guess that people are right "Nobody rides a 230L". Either that or they are all too busy riding to post on here. I like to think that it is the latter of the two...


Still loving mine!!!!!!!!!
I never ride, just work on my post count ...

whadya do about a shock?
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:55 PM   #222
SixtyAte
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Yo SUMORYDER some of us live in the north, so we are just getting our bikes out. I really haven't had any problems from the rear but I will one day change out the front forks. Some food for thought though is are parts from the new 250 compatible?
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:24 PM   #223
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Well, I had a couple of sputters running wide open on Sunday. But, we'll be getting to the 12,000 mile valve adjustment shortly, which will mean a lot of other things getting checked too. The poor bike only gets out for trail riding, and I was seriously considering changing the front fork fluid at that time. The absence of front fork drain plugs complicates a fairly simple maintenance chore.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:24 AM   #224
RockinTheRVA
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New Bike!

Just picked up a 2008 with 1800 miles for $2800. It has never been offroad, great condition. Got to drive it around the farm for 2 hours yesterday, had a blast! I'm 5'9" 170 pounds, this bike is perfect for my size.



First mods will be a skid plate, hand guards, and a small rack to mount my tail-bag to.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:01 PM   #225
KR46c
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Valve Adjustment valves clearance crf230l

*so my pics didn't come in. I don't have time to jack with it-let me know what I'm doing wrong-but all the pics are on flickr here is the link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/94863014@N06/

Sorry

So I picked up an 09 crf230l about a month ago. I have used ADVRider for so many things and have found alot of good advice here, so I wanted to post some of my pics adjusting the valves at the 600 mile service to help out others.

Because I like to save money and because I didn't want to wait for the specialty parts to ship, I improvised came up with a couple good ideas and used a good one from another guy.

I checked both valves. Spec is .004" +- .001" or .10mm +- .02mm
My intake was in spec, the .10mm or .004"(my feeler gauges are marked in metric and english-got it at napa for $4) had good drag. If you check your clearance with straight feeler gauges, you will have a much harder time getting it in, and it will give alot of drag. Once I bent mine and sandwiched it in between two Popsicle sticks using electrical tape, there was no drag at all, so use pre bent ones or bend your own. See pic below The wrench in this photo is a 10mm and 11mm with 45 degree bends(if you leave the tags on you can return the wrench after your done!!--just kidding--wanted to make sure it worked before I took the tag off). 10 mm is the size you will need for lock nut of adjusting nut. 45 degree bend gave me plenty of room.

Go to your local hardware store, I went to ACE westlake, and get square drive screws. I used 1 1/2" and 2" lengths. Somewhere online a guy said robinson #2 3mm square drive was the right size for the adjusting nut. I got ones that measured 3mm across and they were too big, so I went back and got the next size smaller square drive screws, and they fit perfect, no play whatsoever.

I used a needle nose vise grip to hold the screw while tightening the lock nut and it didn't take much force at all to keep the adjustment nut from moving while tightening the lock nut.

It is easier to hold the visegrip from the other side of the bike, as you can see two people makes it real easy, but it can be done with one. There is always a way.

This is how it looks with the screw and wrench on there when you are ready to tighten everything down.

So check clearance with bent feeler gauge. Try the .004", then try the .003", then the .005". Just get a feel for where your valves are, have fun and try the same feeler multiple times. Move them up and down when sliding them around and see if drag is reduced. Don't rush things-it's cold outside anyway-well it was for me. If it is out of spec, loosen lock nut with 10mm wrench with 90 to 45 degree bend. Put in your .10mm or .004" gauge and turn your adjusting nut down with your square drive screw by hand. Play with the feeler gauge, slide it side to side and back and forth while tightening and loosening, by hand, the screw until you feel "light drag." Ah, the term "light drag" what does it mean. On my yz450f, the drag felt much smoother, but it is shim under bucket, the drag on the 230 always felt notchy or kind of sticky/grabby. Even if clearance was increased, it still felt this way in comparison to the 450. Just slide in the next smaller feeler gauge and next larger and get a feel for it. Also, I tried some sizes and they wouldn't go, only to take it out, put it back in and then it fit, so get in there, feel around, adjust angle of feeler a tad, but don't force any thing, and don't apply pressure. Once you think you got it set perfect--this is the most critical part--hold the screw in place and hand tighten the lock nut, then take screw off and look at the adjustment nut to see how it is oriented, find out how you will put vise grip in position and orient the screw in the jaws so it is close. Now, carefully, put screw and visegrip on adjustment nut, but put 10mm wrench on lock nut first. Hold adjust nut in place and tighten to around 10lbs or 11 can't remember. I got close and then used a torque wrench. Just make sure the adjustment nut doesn't walk when using torque wrench, by tightening it enough before using wrench. Check specs again. Do it over if something moved.

I have more pics of the job at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/94863014@N06/

I used the honda factory service manual to do the job and get torque specs. I also used this guys write up:
http://codewins.com/motorcycles/crf230valveclearance/

I hope this helps, alot of info, not organized the greatest, but it should help. This is my first post, so go easy on me, if something doesn't come in right I will try to fix it. If anyone has suggestions to do things better, please let me know.

My intake was in spec at just over 600 mi on bike and the exhaust was loose, I don't know exactly what the spec was, but the .12mm feeler had no drag. I'm kicking myself for not finding out what the exact spec was. I will let you know how they move next adjustment.


Update:6/7/13
After 2600 miles on the bike since last valve adjustment, now 3100, I checked the valves and they were out of spec. Surprising considering I went to full synthetic at 1700 miles, and adjusted the valves, the exhaust anyways, to .10mm. This valve check, both were out of spec, with the exhaust opened up to a snug .13mm and the intake a pretty loose .13mm. Considering how babied this thing is, and that I checked the valves 1000mi early, and have changed oil 125, 600, 1700, 3100, I'm kind of surprised, but not really--they were technically still in spec. Just wanted to get this info out there, and see how your valves are playing out to compare.

KR46c screwed with this post 06-07-2013 at 07:09 AM
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