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Old 03-09-2013, 01:21 PM   #14386
showkey
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Northern , IL
Oddometer: 1,724
TA for sale in market place

Transalp for sale:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...4#post20906234
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:34 PM   #14387
Dr E
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
Oddometer: 143
New Hyperpro Shock installed...

Well after 3 weeks of waiting I finally got my new shock from Klaus...a new Hyperpro 460 Emulsion Rear Shock.
The shock is 1.5" (40 mm) longer then stock and has to have a travel of 4" (100mm). Top mounting eye is to be 1.06" (28 mm) wide
Bottom clevis has inside width of 1.18" (30mm)
Weight: 490 lbs on rear wheel
Spring Color: Purple
Cost delivered: $649.00

When I first started this build, I was going to try a CR250 shock rebuilt with a spring value of 11.5 kg/mm and an increased length of 40mm. All things were good after the shock rebuild EXCEPT when the bike was allowed to site on the shock...it bottomed out on just the bike weight alone. This was not good.

After reading about how Klaus took good care of Ray, I decided to give them a call. Three weeks after my call the new shock showed up and it delivers everything I wanted: ride height is 15" to bottom of engine; seat height 41". Overall lift was an additional 7.5". Here are a few comparison shots of the shocks I have been working with: CR250/ TA OEM/ Hyperpro






A direct OEM to Hyperpro comparison:

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Old 03-09-2013, 08:49 PM   #14388
DualDog
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Galesburg, IL
Oddometer: 150
Transalp Fork Seals

Have 89 Transalp. Fork boots are shot and oily. Ordered new progressive springs, boots and seals. Kinda new at this. Questions:

Are any special tools needed to do this. Did some on KLR650 a few years back and was pretty straight forward but have heard special tools may be needed on these forks.

Also what fluid is recommended and weight. Have heard to put in Automatic trans fluid but have heard otherwise also. If fork oil recommended weight. Mostly paved or gravel road riding. I weight 190. Mostly ride alone unless the Mrs. wants to come along which may add another 130 lbs.

On progressive springs. Does anybody know if the tight wound end is installed up or down on these?

Any help or recommendations would be appreciated.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:27 PM   #14389
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Quote:
Are any special tools needed to do this
You'll need at least an impact wrench either electrical, pneumatic or manual (hit with a hammer)

Here's the order of operations.
Support the bike in some secure way to hold the front wheel off the ground.

Remove the front wheel, fender and stamped fork brace.

Then:
1. Loosen the TOP triple clamp bolts ...ONLY the TOP bolts
2. With the bottom triple clamp bolts still tight loosen the top fork caps 1/4 turn.
3. Loosen the BOTTO< triple clamp bolts and slide the legs out of the clamps.
4. Remove the top cap and pour the old fork oil out into a suitable container.
5. If the fork oil was really dirty flush the fork leg with solvent. Pump the leg up and down with the spring out and the cap back on so you don't shoot dirty solvent about.
6. Put the spring back in and the fork cap back on. Do NOT tighten the cap all the way.
7. Here's the fun part. You will need an impact driver and a good TIGHT fitting allen socket. Be careful here since other owners may have already gotten this bolt a bit marfed up. Quality counts here. Make sure the allen is a tight secure fit into the bolt. It even helps to put a bit of valve grinding paste on the allen to make sure it gets a good bite into the bolt.
8. Turn the fork leg upside-down. Use the impact wrench to loosen the bottom bolt. This bolt goes into the damper rod and it what holds the fork together. When you trigger the driver push down hard on the leg. You want to increase the spring tension here to prevent the damper rod from spinning inside the fork leg. If it spins you will not be able to remove the bolt.
9. If you're using a manual impact driver (I do this alot) you have to time you strike on the driver with the downward push on the fork leg to compress the spring.
10. OK, now the bolt is free, spin it out
11. Remove the fork cap and spring
12. Look down into the seal space and find the wire spring that holds the seal in place. Remove the wire spring.
13. Use the upper fork tube like a slide-hammer. Pull it up sharply until it strikes the bottom of the seal. Repeat until the seal pops out of the fork leg. There will likely be one or two steel washers on top of the seal. Keep track of how they came out.
!4. Inspect the insides and slider bushings. If the bushings are worn down into the copper (they should look dull silver) replacing the bushings would be smart at this point.

Like they say, assembly is the reverse of the process.

EXCEPT: You will have to seat the new seal in the fork leg.

DO NOT try to do this with a screwdriver, chisel or punch. You will almost always destroy the seal.

Borrow a seal driver from a shop, buy one or make one.

You can make one easily by using a piece of 2 in. PVC pipe about 2 ft long.
1. With a saw, split the tube lengthwise so you have 2 1/2 round pieces.
2. Screw the fork leg back onto the damper rod. It doesn't have to be completely tightened yet, just snug.
3. Lube or grease the seal lips lightly and slide the seal down over the fork tube.
4. Push the seal down by hand as far into the fork leg as you can.
5. Split the PVC and put the halves around the fork tube and the end down onto the seal.
6. Using a hose clamp gently clamp the PVC together. Don't make it too tight because it still has to slide up and down the fork tube.
7. Using the PVC as a slide-hammer, tap the seal down into the fork leg until you see the groove for the wire spring retainer.
8. If you have to you can gently tap on the ends of the PVC to get the seal to set. Make sure you tap on both ends equally. You don't want the seal to cock sideways and bind as it goes down.

...............................

Now reinstall the spring and fork cap to hold the damper rod in place while you tighten the bottom allen bolt. Just like you removed it pushing down on the fork leg. Sometimes just a dap of silicone seal on the washer for the bottom bolt is a good idea or insurance against leaks.

...........................

Remove the spring (yes, again) and fill the leg with oil.

Fill the fork about 6 in away from the top then GENTLY pump the leg up and down until all the air bubbles stop.

Then adjust the fork oil level with the spring out and the fork tube pushed all the way down into the leg. I think 125 mm is the correct air-space between the top of the oil and the top of the fork tube.

Quote:
Also what fluid is recommended and weight.
For general road riding I'd try 10 wt. I greatly prefer real fork oil to ATF

Quote:
Does anybody know if the tight wound end is installed up or down on these?
The spring doesn't care which end is up. Prissy racer types will put the closer wound bit at the top in the theory that this makes the fork leg lighter and more responsive. Not sure I believe that or believe that they'd be able to tell the difference.

Then to take advantage of all your hard work be careful in assembling the front end.

You can find instructions for this here https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwYQ...it?usp=sharing about page 89.


I think I remembered all the steps in the correct order. But it HAS been a while since I've had to do this. If I've missed anything, the rest of you please jump in and correct it.

Ladder106 screwed with this post 03-09-2013 at 10:35 PM
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:54 AM   #14390
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,249
WOW, Ladder. Hey Dr. E, got your note book handy?

Congrats on retirement Ladder. Like my dad used to say, "It doesn't cost any more to go first class you just gota come back sooner.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:13 AM   #14391
Hotmamaandme
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Gardnerville NV
Oddometer: 2,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Congrats on retirement Ladder.

Good news Ray! Congratulations!
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:23 AM   #14392
DualDog
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Galesburg, IL
Oddometer: 150
Fork Seals

To Ladder 106.

Thanks for the detailed info.

Really appreciate it.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:47 PM   #14393
happyclam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by showkey View Post
Why? Just curious.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:28 PM   #14394
showkey
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Location: Northern , IL
Oddometer: 1,724
[QUOTE=happyclam;20914618]Why? Just curious.[/QUOTE

6 full size bikes and 2 small ones is just too many bikes sold the 1983 Goldwing STD, Transalp is next on the block.

Purchased a NC700X modifications under way to make it off paved road worthy.....next step tires>

[IMG][/IMG]

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showkey screwed with this post 03-10-2013 at 08:18 PM
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #14395
Ladder106
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,805
Cory,

Please do not tell me you made only ONE of those.


Hear from your Dad. Didn't notice your avitar change at first. What are you doing in NEVADA ?......other then not paying California taxes.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:37 AM   #14396
mattj82
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Hello all...

I'm the proud owner of an Australian 1989 Transalp. Love the bike, except for the seat! After a few hours my coccyx is agony!

So my option appear to be Seat Concepts, Corbin, or having a custom seat made... Any input?

Cheers!

Matt
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:37 AM   #14397
Spina
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Milano, Italy
Oddometer: 81
Finally, after almost 2 months, I have the bike back!
I had to do the license in the shortest time possible to avoid new laws, then snow, then problems at my back and two months because my license was written wrong...

Now my license is back and the bike is repaired from the CDI problem.
Now it's time to practice a lot: I noticed that I have some problems about braking that I MUST resolve as soon as possible.
I really have to learn a lot.
Then I'll try to do the USB socket mod and an homemade scottoiler!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:57 AM   #14398
Rob 110
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Location: UK, OK?
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racing yesterday, goes well and you can drift it
not too bad on the enduro sections, but most was rough single track and firebreaks


unfortunately i overcooked it on a special test ending up 12' below the track

marshals came and helped pick it up and i rode another 5 or 6 miles but it was too rough for my left arm, which turns out to be broken radius and ulna bones in forearm
next 6 weeks in plaster :(


bike is fine apart from cracked xtz 660 tenere front fender
all my homemade parts are intact and performed well :)
next event is 10 weeks....
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:27 AM   #14399
Cruz
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
Oddometer: 5,625
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattj82 View Post
Hello all...

I'm the proud owner of an Australian 1989 Transalp. Love the bike, except for the seat! After a few hours my coccyx is agony!

So my option appear to be Seat Concepts, Corbin, or having a custom seat made... Any input?

Cheers!

Matt
A guy in Melbourne did my 87 seat, Cumfy Seats. I don't notice my seat so it must be okay. Quality is fine. The seat off of my bike is below.

http://www.acmseats.com.au/example-w...-transalp-seat

http://www.acmseats.com.au/

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Old 03-11-2013, 09:32 AM   #14400
GSPD750
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Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Calgary, AB
Oddometer: 1,364
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob 110 View Post
racing yesterday, goes well and you can drift it
not too bad on the enduro sections, but most was rough single track and firebreaks


unfortunately i overcooked it on a special test ending up 12' below the track
marshals came and helped pick it up and i rode another 5 or 6 miles but it was too rough for my left arm, which turns out to be broken radius and ulna bones in forearm
next 6 weeks in plaster :(


bike is fine apart from cracked xtz 660 tenere front fender
all my homemade parts are intact and performed well :)
next event is 10 weeks....
Ouch! Glad to hear your somewhat ok....and your already looking at the next event.
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