XR650R Thread!

[hontri]

Originally Posted by mitchn06

neat rack. Aluminum? custom luggage supports under plastics? neat concept.

Powder coated aluminum with under plastic supports..

[hontri]

Originally Posted by digga1111

what tank is that?

IMS 7 gal. I like it cause it carries the fuel low.

[lstzephyr]

Do you sell them as well or was that custom? I like it.

I have a rack off a drz on mine.

[hontri]

QUOTE=lstzephyr;20941756]Do you sell them as well or was that custom? I like it.

I have a rack off a drz on mine.[/QUOTE]

Thanks. It's a one off custom. I contemplated selling them but to much work

[digga1111]

Originally Posted by hontri

IMS 7 gal. I like it cause it carries the fuel low.

does it use a fuel pump?

[BuRPsa]

Yes it does, a Mikuni vacuum pump, on the lhs - it comes with this standard. This tank is less wide as the Acerbis, and fits well.
Mind though, this tank canNOT be removed off the bike when full - at least, not without adding quick-connectors with checkvalves, obviously to prevent leaking fuel all over when removing this tank.

[Shibby!]

Originally Posted by BuRPsa

Yes it does, a Mikuni vacuum pump, on the lhs - it comes with this standard. This tank is less wide as the Acerbis, and fits well.
Mind though, this tank canNOT be removed off the bike when full - at least, not without adding quick-connectors with checkvalves, obviously to prevent leaking fuel all over when removing this tank.

Careful with the "less wide" because the Acerbis is actually narrower.

The Acerbis is very narrow between the legs, but flares out in front, the IMS is wide between the legs, but stays narrower up front.

[hontri]

Originally Posted by digga1111

does it use a fuel pump?

As was said it does have a vacuum fuel pump (very reliable) and i have check valved quick disconnects installed so removing the tank is easy without fuel loss. Personally i don't find the tank wide at the knees at all and i wear knee braces. Like i said before it carries the fuel low which is great for balance.

[BigToad]

I have big hands so mounting the 6.3 Acerbis is a pain in the ass! Is the IMS 7 easier to take on and off? Anyone with experience mounting both?

[lstzephyr]

Originally Posted by lstzephyr

Alright gents I need a couple extra opinions on my current situation. I can't get my bike to start again after it died the other day. It was running fine on a new engine rebuild until I turned into the bar and it sputtered and died. I figured it was low on fuel and didn't bother with it. When I went to leave I couldn't get it to start. It hasn't started since.

I have:

1. New fuel
2. new petcock
3. new fuel line
4. new spark plug
5. new coil
6. new wiring harness
7. new stator
8. new coil pickup
9. new woodruff key on crankshaft
10. Checked for spark(has spark on spark tester and when holding plug to head)
11. Top end is fresh(new piston/rings/valves/seals/tensioner/cam chain etc less than 8 engine hours ago)
12. Checked cam chain, cam timing, valve clearance(all in spec)
13. Cleaned the carb thoroughly ( tore it down completely and had it dunked over the weekend by the local machine shop)
14. Attempted bump starting (the bike only locks the back tire, I need a bigger hill)
15. pulled cylinder off and checked valves/piston. Everything looks fine.
16. Swapped cdi with ebay xr400 cdi that was stated as pulled from running bike
17. I'm working in a 70 degree shop so temp is not an issue.

After the carb cleaning it would periodically fire 3-4 revolutions then die. Barely more than the spin of the kick. Starting fluid has no effect other than raising the amount of backfires.

I swapped on my recently rebuilt HS40 Carb (mikuni tm40) to see if it was still a plugged pilot circuit. No change except it will fire 3-4 revolutions every other kick now. I think that is because the accelerator pump allows me to toss fuel in. I didn't want to add another variable(new carb) but I wanted to rule out the stock carb as the issue.

So my thinking is that it could be one of a few things:

Unlikely:

1. Loss of compression(it is still more difficult to kick than before rebuilt so it appears to have compression)
2. CDI(only failure symptoms I can find say that there is no spark with a dead cdi, I have spark so probably not cdi)
3. Plugged pilot circuit in both carbs (I checked both thoroughly, especially the hs40)

Probable:

1. Misadjusted idle in both carbs (I have moved the idle screws around while trying to start it)
2. automatic decompressor

I get a pretty impressive backfire every few kicks and it has spark when held to the head. It is getting fuel because of the backfires. About the only thing left is carb or cam.

Any other ideas?

Alright I'm bumping this back up with new components and even less of a guess. I've got an entire new electrical system because I thought it might have incorrect spark timing. I replaced the woodruff key thinking that might contribute to missed timing. No change.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[nick5446]

Originally Posted by lstzephyr

Alright I'm bumping this back up with new components and even less of a guess. I've got an entire new electrical system because I thought it might have incorrect spark timing. I replaced the woodruff key thinking that might contribute to missed timing. No change.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Dude you've got a ton variables going on. If you can, do one thing at a time. Makes life way easier, especially with how suspect new electronics are.

[hontri]

Originally Posted by BigToad

I have big hands so mounting the 6.3 Acerbis is a pain in the ass! Is the IMS 7 easier to take on and off? Anyone with experience mounting both?

Don't know about the Acerbis but i have no problem with the IMS. I wear XXXL gloves. I carry a 1/4" drive ratchet and long extension to reach the front 2 mounting bolts. Mounts up easily.

[lstzephyr]

Originally Posted by nick5446

Dude you've got a ton variables going on. If you can, do one thing at a time. Makes life way easier, especially with how suspect new electronics are.

Yeah I know. The thing is I have been doing everything one piece at a time. You are just looking at a list of six months of swapping parts around. I would have taken it to a dealer or something a while ago if I thought they could do better. I have changed so much on this bike that I'm not sure a mechanic would have a starting point.

[Jayrod1318]

Originally Posted by lstzephyr

Alright I'm bumping this back up with new components and even less of a guess. I've got an entire new electrical system because I thought it might have incorrect spark timing. I replaced the woodruff key thinking that might contribute to missed timing. No change.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

You say it back fired a few times?

Sounds like maybe you are 180degrees off on your cam.

turn the gas off, unplug spark plug and ground it.....Have someone kick it over a bunch of times while putting your hand over the end of your exhaust. (gloved). is it blowing air out or is it sucking it in?

Like wise you can see if you are blowing air out the carb instead of sucking in.

Humor me?

[BuRPsa]

Ist,

Did you ever check if the valves actually seal - like by pouring in meth in the intake & exhaust ports, with the head in your hands or on a bench? A very mild seepage may be acceptable but not clear sweating, never mind leaking.
In any case I would increase the valve clearance now, goto 0.3 & 0.4mm, and try again, just to get it to run. Also, some 4% 2T premix (yes, oil-rich!) may help in valve-sealing just to get it to run, and obviously this is a temporary makeshift measure.
When it starts set the carb there where it idles best (only the idling, fork the rest), then go back to proper valve settings, fuel etc, and take it from there.
With the std camshaft I doubt if one can set the cam 180-deg off, unless you have a non-std flywheel that is. But, this is darn easy to check: take rocker covers off, turn engine until both valves "rock", then check if the piston is in the top of stroke if not TDC. If so all's fine. Mind though, I think valves will hit the crown with a cam 180 degs off so you would have noticed this already, especially seeing you've tkaen the top off already.

1 thing: the camshaft is stock innit? Not reground or modded in some way?
Another thing worth checking (dunno what a 'spark tester is, sorry, Thick here ) is the spark. Take a normal 4-hole button. Rig a ground wire through 1 of the holes, and rig the HT through the diagonally opposite hole. Kick the bugger over and you should see & hear the spark, pulling a generous distance. If this works your spark quality is fine.. but maybe this is what that tester does?