How to service (some) LC4 forks

[GodSilla]

Suspension is for Texicans. You could just turn the throttle and close your eyes, it works for some.


Hi Meaty.

Mine's in the shed, unregistered, dead battery, glaring at my XR600. Around 50k now, prolly should do the cam follower bearings. My 640 suspension is well overdue for a service, the r.h fork rebound screw doesn't turn the full number of clicks anymore. I just turn the throttle and close my eyes........

[TaxMan]

i'm doing some winter maintenance, checking and greasing my steering head bearings and re-springing my 2003 640 Adv. I was hoping to avoid replacing my fork seals, but i noticed that one fork had a very minor seep. i've never changed them, so i figured now was the time to go ahead and switch them out.

i've been shopping for seals. can't bring myself to spring for the SKFs, but i'm also going to avoid the cheepos (MSR and Moose), mostly due to consistant negative feedback on them.

i found a good deal on NOKs for seals for a 2002 640 Adv and wanted to see if there was any significant difference from the seals on the 03?

I've checked the OEM fische on motosport. The 02 has a different part number, but the dimensions listed are: 48600057 OIL SEAL RING 48 X 57,7 X 9,5.

The 03: 48600347 OIL SEAL RING 48X57,8X9,5 03

I doesn't seem like +/- 0.1 should be a big deal, but I expect someone here can point me in the right direction?

Thanks!

[bmwktmbill]

Tax,
That's a new twist.

Not sure what to say, checked my '02, NOK's for sure with a hard to read number, maybe BR6812 E..hard to make it out.

Maybe call MX-Tech for clarification, or email them.

http://www.mx-tech.com/
bill

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by TaxMan

i'm doing some winter maintenance, checking and greasing my steering head bearings and re-springing my 2003 640 Adv. I was hoping to avoid replacing my fork seals, but i noticed that one fork had a very minor seep. i've never changed them, so i figured now was the time to go ahead and switch them out.

i've been shopping for seals. can't bring myself to spring for the SKFs, but i'm also going to avoid the cheepos (MSR and Moose), mostly due to consistant negative feedback on them.

i found a good deal on NOKs for seals for a 2002 640 Adv and wanted to see if there was any significant difference from the seals on the 03?

I've checked the OEM fische on motosport. The 02 has a different part number, but the dimensions listed are: 48600057 OIL SEAL RING 48 X 57,7 X 9,5.

The 03: 48600347 OIL SEAL RING 48X57,8X9,5 03

I doesn't seem like +/- 0.1 should be a big deal, but I expect someone here can point me in the right direction?

Thanks!

Even though both the 02 and 03 Adventures run 48mm forks for some reason KTM changed to a different fork in 03...

0.1 MM larger shouldn't be too much of and issue... I would warm the outer fork tubes around the top with a heat gun just prior to tapping the seals in, this bit of heat expansion should make for an easier job to seat them in place...

[bmwktmbill]

Tax,

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=847293

Manuals just in case.

You will need to make a slipper to get the seals on.

Some like me put grease under the trash seal to stop dirt ingression.
It has worked for me, never a seal failure.
bill

[Hipster]

Taxman,

If you want SKF seals, use KTM p/n R14020 for the SKF 48 mm fork seal kit (48mm forks) with includes the upper & lower bushings and the piston seal. The seal kit from discount KTM dealers is about $85.

[bmwktmbill]

Originally Posted by Hipster

Taxman,

If you want SKF seals, use KTM p/n R14020 for the SKF 48 mm fork seal kit (48mm forks) with includes the upper & lower bushings and the piston seal. The seal kit from discount KTM dealers is about $85.

If the Teflon is still good on the bushings you can go another 10K miles or more and save some money.

Believe mine are still original at 50K miles.
I've done seals a couple of times but that's me.
bill

[meat popsicle]

Hola,

in another thread there was a question about this assembly, and thought that the Husaberg forum had the answer, but while looking I came across mention of this upgrade:

https://www.factoryconnection.com/Me...ry_Code=FCSHKP

Supposedly this seals the rebound needle assembly bore so it can't rust as easily, and at $25 a leg its not a bad deal either. Anyone tried this? Anyone have thoughts? I asked one tuner who know WP for his thoughts and will post if he replies.

[Droptarotter]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

Hola,

in another thread there was a question about this assembly, and thought that the Husaberg forum had the answer, but while looking I came across mention of this upgrade:

https://www.factoryconnection.com/Me...ry_Code=FCSHKP

Supposedly this seals the rebound needle assembly bore so it can't rust as easily, and at $25 a leg its not a bad deal either. Anyone tried this? Anyone have thoughts? I asked one tuner who know WP for his thoughts and will post if he replies.

Meat;
That part looks to be for the rear shock, not the fork???

I have some bicycle inner tube over that adjuster and the bottom pivot bearing on the rear shock............that seems to keep lots of the crud out.

Cheers

Cheers

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by Droptarotter

Meat;
That part looks to be for the rear shock, not the fork???

I have some bicycle inner tube over that adjuster and the bottom pivot bearing on the rear shock............that seems to keep lots of the crud out.

Cheers

Woops - I think you're right... I found out about such a think from another forum, searched, and found that but didn't check to see what its for... maybe because I didn't know the rear shock was susceptible like the forks.

Dang, I just heard back from a tuner who said he had ordered one and was waiting to try it, but I didn't specify forks... so he may have thought I was referring to the shock. I wrote to factory connection to check.

[wrk2surf]

Originally Posted by Droptarotter

Meat;
That part looks to be for the rear shock, not the fork???

I have some bicycle inner tube over that adjuster and the bottom pivot bearing on the rear shock............that seems to keep lots of the crud out.

Cheers

Cheers

they are actually for the smaller bikes and not for the LC4 600-640 wp shock

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by wrk2surf

they are actually for the smaller bikes and not for the LC4 600-640 wp shock

My bad - I probably read the thread at Husagerg.org too quickly and didn't catch the details.

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

Hola,

in another thread there was a question about this assembly, and thought that the Husaberg forum had the answer, but while looking I came across mention of this upgrade:

https://www.factoryconnection.com/Me...ry_Code=FCSHKP

Supposedly this seals the rebound needle assembly bore so it can't rust as easily, and at $25 a leg its not a bad deal either. Anyone tried this? Anyone have thoughts? I asked one tuner who know WP for his thoughts and will post if he replies.

My mistake - I heard back from Factory Connection: they don't make any such widget for the forks. A very good WP tuner is testing this thing for a WP shock (may not be the same shock as on our 640s!) and thinks its a good idea. I wish they made one for our forks; but maybe its impossible. Too bad...

[ssbogger]

I was using this thread, in conjunction with the forks owners manual as a guide to replace my seals. Everything came apart OK but when I was putting things back together and filling the tube up with oil I noticed something that I'm not sure is OK. When I pump the piston thru its full stroke, oil comes out near the top of the piston when it is almost fully compressed. It happens during the last inch of the stroke. See the picture below for where the oil is coming out. Note: I did not disassemble the pistons.
Anyone have any ideas?

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by ssbogger

I was using this thread, in conjunction with the forks owners manual as a guide to replace my seals. Everything came apart OK but when I was putting things back together and filling the tube up with oil I noticed something that I'm not sure is OK. When I pump the piston thru its full stroke, oil comes out near the top of the piston when it is almost fully compressed. It happens during the last inch of the stroke. See the picture below for where the oil is coming out. Note: I did not disassemble the pistons.
Anyone have any ideas?

When you were refilling did some oil get into the cartridge assembly down through the tube? If so it will come back up and actually leak out of the rebound dial for a while when the forks are assembled..