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Old 03-16-2013, 02:20 PM   #361
RexBuck OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kedgi View Post
Hey Steveo

Good job on the RR. Nice photos! That road to Hidroelectrica is made all the more dangerous for Motos by cab drivers like you describe. They won't give you a friggen inch or slow down as you negotiate the foot or so they leave you along the edge of the cliff.

I thought of you last night as i watched NBC News which named Bolivia the least tourist friendly Country in the World??? I would have thought North Korea could have beat them out.

Save a few bucks for speeding tickets there. I got one even though cars were passing me, in a construction project, like I was stopped.

I liked Cusquena, but you can only find Moosehead Ale with the red label, nector of the Gods, right here in NB. (Not the lager in the green bottles we sell everywhere else)

Good job, ride safe!

Kedgi

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832336
Thanks for that Deeewight.

Thanks also for the heads up on that road south of La Paz . . . I was a good little boy and didn't have to pay any "tolls".

Looking forward to some of the good beers we have at home and particularly looking forward to some the fine bourbons you don't see any of down here.

I don't think Bolivia deserves the "most unfriendliest" label. I met some really friendly people there and I was only there two days.

Cheers
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:27 PM   #362
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Hey mate, really nice report and pics!, Bolivia is great, a must, and so is Paraguay where I am located. So, please do not hesitate to contact if you plan to come. most travellers skip Paraguay, and those who dont, surely can advise to see.
cheers
Thanks for joining in Sandino - your compliments are greatly appreciated.

I've kind of run out of time now and there are so many places I would love to get to south and east of Peru but won't be able to. Paraguay is certainly one of them.

Thanks for the offer of assistance and maybe I'll be able to return to South America someday to explore all the parts I missed.
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:29 PM   #363
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March 5 Ollyantombo and Maras

Some final pics of Aguas Caliente. The little stream dividing the town





The main river roaring below. It looks like Hidroelectrica downstream is a pretty substantial power producer. With power in this river, it's no wonder.






Little girls are cute everywhere





Catch the early train back to Hidroelectirca. While they still have the special dome car on the train for tourists, it originated in Ollantaytambo and is primarily bringing workers and locals to Aguas Caliente, Machu Pichu and Hidrolectrica. Just like a bus, it stops along the way to drop locals off.

Get to Hidroelectrica and another train engine is slowly coming down a second track in front of all the vendors and the track was swarming with people from my train. No problem. They put a guy on the front of that train and he whistles at everybody to get out of the way. Low tech works again!

Im hoping someone was creative and figured out how to get one of these mini-buses over to this side of the slide as Im not relishing carrying my bag over the little hill and across the slide. Hot damn, there is one and the helper recognizes me as the guy with the moto. Get over to the washout and the helper grabs my bag and disappears with it. Im starting to think maybe I tipped the crazy guy too much if Ive got that much of a reputation around here already. Turns out this is one of the Santa Maria taxi drivers and when I get there hes already got my bag in his van and loading people up.

Where the road used to be at the washout. Starting to rebuild.




Looking out on the valley between Santa Teresa and Santa Maria



This outlet pipe is the size of a tunnel. I think this is another example of their style of sticking the generating facilities inside a mountain. There is enough fall in the river to just divert some and forget about big expensive dams.




Looking across the valley at what looks like a new road. Looks like they don't have problem getting rid of excess material, just push it over the side.



Load up and head out of Santa Maria in some nice sunshine but of course can see clouds up around where Ill be ascending. Fog wasnt that bad maybe down to 200 ft vis in a couple of places. Had a blast on the switchbacks again. Started raining pretty hard towards the top. Down to about 5 deg and it was getting chilly.

Stopped just before Ollyantombo at a roadside restaurant and had some fantastic chicharon with fresh mint leaves.



Took a picture of the restaurant. Notice on the left side of the building is the little restroom or, Bao. On the side of the Bao you can see a blue line, which is the urinal. Latin American's seem to be less concerned about the act of peeing than we of uptight English stock are.




On to Ollyantombo which has some Incan ruins dating to the same time as Machu Pichu. These are easy to get to as they are right in town.




This was apparently the personal home of the King and was where he holed up trying to defend against the Spanish. Vacated it around the same time as Machu Pichu was vacated.








Notice the sets of terraces on the hillsides? I have no idea why they built these here other than they were either holy places or defense positions



Stopped at the little town of Maras to find the famous salt mines. I found this fascinating. They are located a few miles from town and as we approach, this is our first view in the valley below



The Incas and their predecessors had found this spring that has a high concentration of salt in its water. Sure tasted saltier than ocean water.



They decided to devise a method to extract salt by evaporation. These beds were originally designed and built by the Incans. It is a pretty simple but effective way to make salt. The beds were built down the hillside as terraces to allow for ease of getting the water to the beds by gravity



The stream is channeled along the top of the beds




Smaller channels (along the top of the ridge near the bottom of the photo) take the water down the hill where it can be diverted into the beds which are filled.




Crank up the sun to evaporate the water and, salt. The skill comes in scrapping up the salt some people get white salt and the less skilled get brown salt.
Some of the bagged salt ready for sale




This guy was making adobe bricks beside the road to the salt mines




Above the valley with the salt mines



Very common sight of a lady tending her sheep



You can see the edge of the lake that was built to supply irrigation water to the area. The patchwork of little plots is pretty. Mostly corn and what looks to me like beans




A little spillage from one of the irrigation canals created this pond and this is one happy porker



Another common sight is people cutting some sort of forage and carrying it back to their livestock. This guy has a burro so he can carry twice as much



Back to Cusco for a night.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:37 AM   #364
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Awesome!
And I'd seen pics of those salt pools but hand't realized much detail of how they were operated.
Thanks!
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:49 AM   #365
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Nice!!!

Really enjoyable ride report, thank you for taking the time to write up and post. I also visited the Salt Pans of Maras and was overwhelmed by the vastness of the place. You did a nice job of capturing this in your pictures.

Cheers,
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:54 PM   #366
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These are great photos!! I believe the terraces on the hillsides were food store houses..well ventilated up on the Mtn. sides.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:05 PM   #367
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Awesome!
And I'd seen pics of those salt pools but hand't realized much detail of how they were operated.
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SR View Post
Very nice photos!!
Thanks guys
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:08 PM   #368
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Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Really enjoyable ride report, thank you for taking the time to write up and post. I also visited the Salt Pans of Maras and was overwhelmed by the vastness of the place. You did a nice job of capturing this in your pictures.

Cheers,
Thanks for following along.

I had no idea what to expect and when I came around the corner and saw them spread out below, I was so shocked, I almost fell down . . . again.
Really appreciate your comments.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:10 PM   #369
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These are great photos!! I believe the terraces on the hillsides were food store houses..well ventilated up on the Mtn. sides.
Cal, could well be. The Incas were pretty clever in developing fairly simple ways to accomplish things and that would be a good example.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:01 PM   #370
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March 6 Heading to(wards) Colca Canyon

Interesting day. Expected to be a fast 400 km from Cusco to Chivay at the top of Colca Canyon so, left late.

Came to a little town called Urcos and saw a number of ladies wearing these quite fancy hats. I call them the lamp shad hats.





Then got to the square and saw this Transita with a western hat






Turned off the highway to Espinar and the road immediately turns to dirt decent quality and except for a few spots up hills chewed up by trucks can move along ok. Thinkin this may turn my fast 400 km day into a not so fast 400 km day. After about 20 km of this, turns into nice pavement. Smokin!





Arrive in the town of Espinar and will need to fill the bike and fill me. Decent sized town. Find a restaurant which is huge and packed. Ask for the Almuerzo (Lunch) soup, something Im not sure of but sure is good, some of those corn nut things that I ate with my soup and a glass of hot lemonade. Delicious!








Come out and my bike has attracted a crowd. Asked the usual questions about the bike and the trip. Notice a kid quietly looking over every detail of the bike. Ask him if he wants to sit on it . . . didn't have to ask him to smile





Lady with the "high bowler" seen a lot in this region. Also notice the knit leggings which have been very common in the colder climes.






Gas up and go. Road out of town is dirt and that condition doesnt change until the very end of the day. Decent quality road though and can maintain 70 -80 kph most of the time with ease. Road takes us through a big mine and processing plant. (Sorry SR, no pics)

A few wet spots that made things interesting have to let cars and trucks get all the way through the mud bogs or Ill run into them as they are going so slow. Too much traffic the other way to pass.

Beautiful country rolling hills with volcano craters visible. Slightly to the right of center, stand two little peaks that are remaining sides of a crater





Slowly climbed and everytime I figured I got to a new high, the road would turn and go higher. Finally got to a new record altitude. Basicly I started the day at 11,000 feet in Cusco and reached 14,000 after a couple of hours and never returned to that level.





Some of the rugged, volcanic mountain peaks





A little house with its rock fences up against some interesting rock formations





Finally got a picture of a grass roofed house. Notice in front of the house is an adobe fence. They seem to always put some grass on top of adobe walls - I presume to shed the rain so it doesn't erode them.






Some alpacha crossing the road





Many flocks of sheep with a member of the family standing watch. As gained altitude, the sheep were mixed with Alpaca and Llama then just straight Alpachas and Llamas. Lots of cattle along the way also. Stopped next to this lady herding her flock of alpacha, pull out my camera and ask if I can take her picture? She wags her finger at me and says no. So when I point the camera at her, she smiles anyhow. Good sport.





Often have dogs run out into the road to bark at me and chase me away. Nothing different today except this one border collie type came charging out and I didnt slow, as I normally dont, but I should have known better. This guy is smart enough to figure out the correct angle of attack to get at me and goes for my front tire. Im doing about 50 kph and wham I feel him hit my crash bar followed by a yelp. Look in my mirror and hes rolling down the road ass over tea kettle. Stop and by the time I get off my bike, hes run back to his house. Ill bet hell have a headache for a couple of days. Pushed my right side spot light down a bit but no other evidence. Felt crappy about that hope he was ok.

Finally get to the turn off to Chivay road certainly looks much less used. Immediately encounter the biggest mud puddle in the world must have been a hundred yards long but, foutunately, it only crossed the entire road for about 25 feet water was deeper than the bottom of the engine.

Carried on with what appeared to be a decent road but not well maintained. Doesn't appear to be used much either as I encountered no traffic other than a gazillion Alpachas and Llamas grazing in huge herds. Im thinking this is a bit weird and am starting to fear the road may be out. Figure I may as well carry on for a while and see whats up. After awhile, came to a large dam and reservoir and the road goes downhill in the direction of the base of the dam. Sure enough, theres a river and theres where the bridge was.






Check out my paper map and it looks like I can get to Chivay by going back to the road to Arequipa and make a big loop. So, hi-tail it back to the turn-off. At the turnoff some guy in a car stops me to ask about the road. Wouldnt believe me when I told him it was closed. Finally convinced him just when another car goes barreling past us.

Take off towards Arequipa and come across a little town and ask a guy directions. He too was surprised the road to Chivay was out. Tells me the long way to get there. I head out. GPS finally figures out the route and says I will arrive about 9:30 this detour will add 200 km to my route.

So, here we are. It's after 5 PM, getting dark, getting cold (now its 5 deg) and I've been watching these ugly and massive clouds building in the direction I now have to go. I thought about wild camping along the road but most of it is wet with a lot of standing water. I don't really want to ride that late in this stormy night so maybe somebody will let me sleep on their floor.

Although the GPS doesnt show any hotels until Chivay, I'm hoping it missed one - it's not unusual for it to not only miss many hotels, it sometimes misses whole towns.

We have about 60 km to the next turn and it looks like the road we turn onto is major and I'm hoping will be paved. It has now started to rain and I want to get there before this rain starts to accumulate on the dirt road and turns it into a mud road which would make for a long and tedious night.

Sure enough, turn onto a paved road. My temperature gauge is now flashing at 3 deg C. It is pissing rain, its pitch black and Im looking for a place to stop. I can see a few lights in the distance and my GPS shows the town of Imata. Get to this wide spot in the road truckers stop. See a couple of restaurants and then spot the nicest sign Ive ever seen. Hospedaje. Yahoo! (From the next morning) It wasn't a big sign but it stood out like a MacDonalds Golden Arches.



Sure enough, they have a room 30 soles ($12), hell, he could have told me it was 100 soles and I would have nodded my head. Has toilets out back, but, not only is there no hot water, there are no showers. But they do have a restaurant. Im smillin.


Guy wants me to ride my bike around back which as far as I can tell involves going up the road a ways, riding down a muddy ally and what looks like a junk strewn muddy field to get to the back of his place. I'm tired and I'm cold, I think Ill just park in the front and hope my bike is there in the morning.

Change and get down to the restaurant. Cena? (Dinner) You betcha. Starts off with a cream of chicken soup and then a chicken dinner. Man did that taste good. Asks what I want to drink - no beer, I don't want coffee so, I opt for the Matte de Coca tea which is coca Leaf tea and is supposed to help with altitude problems. The altitude has not bothered me but were at 14,500 feet and I figure Ill be up here for awhile so might as well have a cup for preventative measures.

That was quite a day, I'm good now.

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Old 03-18-2013, 05:34 PM   #371
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Holy adventures RB. Glad you made it safe for the night before the road turned to mud and who knows what. Sounds like a great end to the day, and sure beats camping in the wild, on soggy land.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:00 PM   #372
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Holy adventures RB. Glad you made it safe for the night before the road turned to mud and who knows what. Sounds like a great end to the day, and sure beats camping in the wild, on soggy land.
I'm rarely excited about finding a place to stay - after so many times it becomes pretty routine. I was exstatic to find this place.

I forgot to mention the highway was raised up about 2 or 3 feet from the "frontage road" and I couldn't find the entrance roads. Rode back and forth a couple of times before I found one. Would have just ridden over the edge but it was too dark and I couldn't see down to what was in front of me.
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:03 PM   #373
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Mar 7 Finally to Chivay

Horrible nights sleep last night. Was in my long johns and a shirt, had three wool blankets on the bed and was still cold. Must have been below 10 C in there. Guess I should have stuck my sleeping bag under the covers.





Looking out my window from the back of the Hospedaje/Restaurant. Pretty bleak



Went down to the restaurant which was just as busy as last night with truckers and had fried chicken for breakfast.

Then headed for Chivay. Started noticing that the snow level on the neighboring mountains wasnt that much higher than the plain.





Pretty country up on the altiplano with huge herds of Alpacha and Llama. Very open and sparse.

Hit a new altitude record finally, 16,000 feet.






Now Im thinkin that the snow level this morning would have been well below that peak and had I decided to go for Chivay last night, I probably would have been camping in the snow as I didnt have enough gas to turn around.

When I was near the peak I walked down a 20 foot embankment and the climb back up had me wheezing after about the second breath . . . the lack of air just about frickin killed me. Wheezin Geezer rides again.

Beautiful valley with Chivay at the bottom. This is the start of the Colca Canyon. Some rock fences with a stream coming down the ravine





This whole area, well into the canyon, is covered with terraced and rock fenced farms. Pretty.



The town of Chivay



Stopped to take one pic and as Im getting off the bike, it decides its tired also and proceeds to lie down - again. I usually get on and off the bike from the right side and have a bad habit of sometimes dragging my foot over the seat (can't get it over the bags on the back) and if its parked on a right hand slope, doesn't take much to get it going.

I swear for a moment then proceed to take most of the luggage off and as I was getting ready to lift, a guy stops to help me. After we get the bike righted again, he says to me are you Steve? and Im looking around for a sign on my back or on my bike with my name on it. Howd you know that? Turns out he is the guy at Tradicion Colca Hotel I had corresponded with for a hotel reservation . . . that I didn't show up for last night. Nice guy.

Entering the town and stopped by the police manning a gate. Want 70 Soles ($27) to enter the canyon as a tourist. Dig out a hundy and hand it to the cop and he tells me they dont have any change. I was tired and grumpy and said, well, neither do I Fees like this irritate me but I understand them to a point. If you are going to charge to enter an attraction like this then be prepared to accept any denomination bill, even credit cards . . . every other tourist attraction does. I think this guy wanted me to walk off and leave him the change. Uhhh, Finally his sidekick stepped up with some change. Didnt make me less grumpy.

Tradicion Colca is a pretty nice hotel. They try to provide a lot of activities (hiking, horseback riding, tours) to keep everyone happy. They have a bar . . . kept me happy.

Was thinking I might just extend my stay another day or two until I found out they have no WiFi. Thats a no go for me for a longer stay so will head out for Arequipa tomorrow.


Had a nice meal of alpacha and then they had a couple of kids from town come and do a traditional dance. Apparently, the tradition is that boys weren't permited to be at these dances so they would dress up like the girls and hide their faces with a bunch of straps. Interesting that the boy is wearing a somewhat similar hat to the "lampshade hats" I saw yesterday.










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Old 03-20-2013, 07:54 PM   #374
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Looks like you had a good time including mud, side trips with bridges out, and cold.
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Thinkin this may turn my fast 400 km day into a not so fast 400 km day. After about 20 km of this, turns into nice pavement. Smokin!
Smokin' is right! That is one magnanamous valley.
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Notice a kid quietly looking over every detail of the bike. Ask him if he wants to sit on it . . . didn't have to ask him to smile
Very cool! I bet he's still talking about that.
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have to let cars and trucks get all the way through the mud bogs or Ill run into them as they are going so slow.
That exercise of wisdom demonstrates experience.
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everytime I figured I got to a new high, the road would turn and go higher.
Damn, almost 16k feet! I'm trying to reconstruct your route in Google Maps. Does THIS look about right for that spot?
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Often have dogs run out into the road to bark at me and chase me away. ... this one border collie type ... goes for my front tire. Im doing about 50 kph and wham I feel him hit my crash bar followed by a yelp. Look in my mirror and hes rolling down the road ass over tea kettle. Stop and by the time I get off my bike, hes run back to his house. Ill bet hell have a headache for a couple of days. Pushed my right side spot light down a bit but no other evidence. Felt crappy about that hope he was ok.
Don't feel bad about that, man; serves it right. I love dogs and have three but they should behave properly. Maybe now it won't crash the next guy who isn't as adept as you.
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That was quite a day, I'm good now.
And that was quite a story. Thank you for making it so interesting for us!
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #375
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Steve! Wow, that's high! 16002' Now you can tell everyone you went to Peru to get high!
It's amazing how cold it can be so near the equator. Hope you're heading for the costa.

Okay, I'll bite. Why were you walking down a 20 foot embankment?

I don't understand getting on and off the right side of the bike. Yours has the kickstand on the left, correct? (I put 'right' but that looked confusing). It's always harder to get on and off on the side opposite the kickstand plus it presents the problem you experienced. You can't pull the bike over getting off if you're on the side of the kickstand.

Way to stand your ground on the change for the entrance fee. I'm sure it's a game to see if you'll roll your eyes and say keep the change. The more people do that, the more they'll expect it.

Thanks again for the great stories. And it goes without saying, the great pictures. It looks like about a two week gap between the day of the events and the day posted, so I have to wonder, are you back home writing the final installments?
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