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Old 03-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #196
GS eh!
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Great Stuff

HWD, still following along on this most excellent adventure. It is deffinately not Boring! yes i am reading the Wans trip as well. I am planning a May trip for two weeks, so all if the info is greatly appreciated.

Keep up the great work!

Richard
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:15 PM   #197
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We found a quiet, secure, colorful, almost-but-not-quite-dive hotel in La Paz just outside the Malecon, unloaded,
and flopped down on our beds. Whew, kind of a stressful day but we'd landed just fine. Found a tire, found some beds,
found some great tacos that night, and slept just fine.

That's the Hotel San Bernardino - a great place! Just wait till you stay in an-actual-dive hotel in Mexico:>)
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:11 AM   #198
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Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post

Hey Tim H------is this Tim H as in rmd Tim H, Idaho Spodefest Tim H???

I'm.......honored that a mere 5 years after joining, MY report was the cause of your first post.

I won't let you down.
CS, hate to say it, but I think FB is the cause/impetus for this... He got dragged in kicking and screaming too, if I recall...
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:20 AM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GS eh! View Post
...I am planning a May trip for two weeks, so all if the info is greatly appreciated...
Cool, hope the trip goes well, good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeMyrah View Post
That's the Hotel San Bernardino - a great place! Just wait till you stay in an-actual-dive hotel in Mexico:>)
Yeah, I was being a bit over-the-top, it was secure enough. But great?...I'd have to disagree. Not very clean, mattresses were lumpy and about 50 years old, no hot water, towels were like what they used to give us in junior high gym class, door was sagging and scraped the floor...actually now that I think about it, it was pretty great!



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CS, hate to say it, but I think FB is the cause/impetus for this... He got dragged in kicking and screaming too, if I recall...
sheesh, poor guy. I feel for ya, Tim H
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:24 AM   #200
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Won't be posting a new installment for a couple days, going to be on the road for a bit...


on 4 wheels, not 2...
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HardWorkingDog screwed with this post 03-16-2013 at 07:38 AM Reason: Bekins men are careful quick and kind...
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:07 PM   #201
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unacceptable
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:05 PM   #202
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Damn, great RR so far HWD! I'll have to find another to read up on for the next couple of days.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:01 AM   #203
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:21 AM   #204
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Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
unacceptable
Yeah, the worst thing is it's hard to get back in the report mode...but I'm determined, so here we go again...

Quote:
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Damn, great RR so far HWD! I'll have to find another to read up on for the next couple of days.
Thanks! You can come back now

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Hey N_R, welcome!
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:13 PM   #205
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Eric and I are thoroughly enjoying this report, HWD!


Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Thanks! Too bad he's got to view it on that leetle iPhone screen.
Hah-ha!! No, he reads it every morning (or at least on the mornings after you make a post ) and then we look at it later on my laptop.

I totally appreciate your efforts, HWD, and I know how time-consuming a good ride report can be. It's a labor of love, for sure. It's a good thing I do them for myself, first and foremost, or I'd probably never finish one




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Old 03-18-2013, 12:14 PM   #206
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Day 33, 2/1/13
Loreto to Bahia Concepcion




Where was I? Oh yeah, Loreto........





We'd had enough pavement yesterday and were looking forward to a good dirt route today. Based on another
of BigDog's tracks from his trip in 2007 I had planned for us to head back south on Mex 1 for about a mile where
we'd catch a dirt road west towards San Javier, and then cut north to San Jose Comondu, San Isidro and then
back east to catch up with Mex 1 again towards Bahia Conception and Mulege. My maps indicated this would
be all dirt roads from the time we left Mex 1 until we rejoined it just below the Bahia so we were a little
disappointed when we turned off 1 and headed up into the mountains west of Loreto on-------asphalt.





Oh well, once we climbed a bit the road became a great stretch of pavement--full of on-camber twisty fun that
snaked its way up the ridge. Mexican road sign makers have a great sense of humor. We'd been riding s-curves
for a good 6 or 7 miles when we came upon a road sign warning: "CAMINO SINUOSO"





We had to stop at one point for some photos. The road reminded me a bit of Calif. 190 as it drops down
into Panamint Valley.





As we looked ahead we could see some indication that the road ahead would require some caution.





There was just a narrow strip of passable pavement through here-----another good rainstorm would probably
take out the rest of the road.





We finally got our dirt though, when the road to San Jose Comondu tee's off just after we passed Rancho Viejo.





This road is a great piece of fun Baja dirty goodness. Rocky, twisty, rutty and scenic, we had a great time riding
it to the settlement of San Jose Comondu. There is an interesting old mission there





and the people waved and smiled as we rode through.





After San Jose Comondu I had to make a choice. There are 2 dirt routes to ride, the shorter one heads northeast
towards El Crucerito--about 25 miles--and the longer one goes northwest towards San Isidro and then east to
El Crucerito for a total of about 38 miles. BigDog had taken the shorter route back in 2007. What to do?


Of course that one's too easy, let's take the long way!!!


There was a little bit of confusion as we climbed above San Jose Comondu, but eventually I had us on the right
road, past a small cemetery, and away we went. I realized at some point that, strangely, this road was on my
OpenStreetMap gps map--probably the only dirt route we'd been on that was actually on the gps so I felt comfortable
this was going to be an easy dirt road.


Couldn't have been more wrong.


The road quickly turned rockier, ruttier, more washed out than anything we'd ridden yet and even worse, the road--
I can't really call it a road now, more a track--started getting fainter and fainter. Clearly no vehicle had been over
this route in quite awhile. No tire tracks, long stretches where the plants were growing undisturbed over what
seemed like the path. If this hadn't been on my gps map I would have definitely turned around and gone back to
the short route. But, we carried on.


We both had a couple get offs, and there was one long steep uphill stretch composed of 6 inch rocks in a matrix
of loose sand. In other words, almost no traction. We both had to slip our clutches to keep going. Thankfully the
new clutch in the DR held, but it was sweating bullets time. Hot, sweaty dusty riding, through washouts, rock steps
and ledges, over bushes and groundcover, through areas that made us fully aware of how vulnerable we were if
something went pear-shaped.





I was really grateful to be riding with my son.


We helped each other through the tough spots, laughed at each other and just kept going. Made it out to the
main graded dirt road just east of San Isidro hungry, thirsty and hot, stopped in the little bit of shade and ate lunch,
not talking too much, just relieved to be out of there unbroken. I was beat and we still had 30 miles of dirt, and
another 30 of pavement to get to the Bahia.





That was a long day in the saddle. Don't think we say anyone else from the time we left San Jose Comondu until we
got to El Crucerito, where we passed a Toyota 4 wheel drive bouncing slowly over the rocks. Made me feel like
a fast guy...


I was tired, did I mention that? At one point we stopped near a small settlement east of El Crucerito--don't even
remember why, now, maybe to share a clif bar?--anyway it was a flat level bit of road and as I stopped and went
to put my right foot down I realized I'd stopped near the only depession within 5 yards, my foot had farther to go
than I'd expected....bike starts to lean right......foot stumbles.......trying to hold it up.........it's going over!


Gahhh! That was about the fifth 0 mph tipover for me on the trip and I'd HAD IT!! I jumped over the downed bike,
literally hopping mad. Time slowed down in one of those freeze frame moments-----I spied a rock about 10 inches
across, picked it up, looked around carefully to make sure I wasn't going to smash my own foot or bike, and SLAMMED
it down onto another rock laying nearby. It splintered into about 8 small pieces in a soothing and satisfying
crescendo and I looked back at my son with a mixture of anger and frustration that faded into pure relief.


He just about fell off HIS bike laughing at me. I started laughing as well and we picked my bike up, again, and
carried on. I've thought about this "road" quite a bit since then and I'm guessing that since the road to San Isidro from
the west is now paved no one bothers with this old piece of dirt track. Not really sure, but it's clear the dirt road we
took has unofficially been abandoned. It's doable--heck, we made it and others have as well--but be warned, it's
pretty rough and is only going to get worse over time, in my opinion.


We made it back to Mex 1 and droned on towards Bahia Concepcion on some now-welcome smooth pavement.


The goal was to spend the night at the Playa Posada Hostel. I'd read about it here on advrider, a ride report had
mentioned how enjoyable the hostel had been and best of all the owner ran a bakery producing tasty pan dulce
on site...sounded perfect to us.


We found the place and it wasn't quite what we'd expected. The Playa was packed with semi-permanent RV's
placed close to each like little townhouses and no one was in the office. Finally a resident wandered over
seeing our puzzlement and mentioned the owner was away for a couple weeks and the hostel was closed.




We'd seen a number of small palapa/camping areas on the way so turned around and headed back towards
an area called El Coyote. We turned off Mex 1 on a small unmarked dirt road and found an empty palapa on
a nice little cove, inhabited by the usual cast of Canadians in fifth wheels. We were camped maybe 25 feet
from the bay on soft sand





Some of the Canadian residents had warned us of thefts that had occurred recently in the area--seems the
closer to cities and Mex 1 the less secure Baja becomes--so we kept our bikes in the palapa and pitched
our tents in front.





As the sun set Bryn rode back to a small Super-Mini nearby, picked up some groceries from the abuelita who
ran the place--"muy cuidado" as she handed him the fresh eggs





and we cooked up our version of chicken and dumplings: A can of Campbell's chicken noodle
soup with extra pasta, some red pepper flakes and 2 beaten eggs added in slowly while the soup and pasta is
gently boiling. Fresh tortillas with avocado & salsa, a couple of Tecates, some oranges and Chokis chocolate chip cookies for dessert.


Ah, the life of kings.


Exhausted kings.







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HardWorkingDog screwed with this post 03-18-2013 at 03:43 PM Reason: Adverbs? We don't need no stinkin' adverbs
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:30 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by Tim H View Post
Charles, you've got me pulled in to this one too. Great report, and great trip (so far, don't let us down). I get to do a lot of cool stuff with my son, but this has me feeling the pangs of jealousy. We both started jonesing for something like this while we were down there pitting for the 1000. Looking forward to the rest of the story.

Tim H
Music to my ears, Tim! You need to meet up with us somewhere in the west and ride one of our bikes. It's not as boring/sissy as it sounds on paper
Honest!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Hey Tim H------is this Tim H as in rmd Tim H, Idaho Spodefest Tim H???

I'm.......honored that a mere 5 years after joining, MY report was the cause of your first post.

I won't let you down.

Dang, Charles...I'd be pretty honored, too! I mean, I've been posting some little ol' ride reports here, too, for years and he's never posted to one of mine



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Old 03-18-2013, 01:20 PM   #208
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Eric and I are thoroughly enjoying this report, HWD! ... I know how time-consuming a good ride report can be...
Cool! Glad you're still hangin' with this.

It definitely reaches a point where it feels more like a burden...justgottagetthroughit...

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Old 03-18-2013, 01:26 PM   #209
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Cool! Glad you're still hangin' with this.

It definitely reaches a point where it feels more like a burden...justgottagetthroughit...

Yeah, I know. It kind of feels like a monkey on your back til you're done. So worth it, though. I still haven't gotten to our anniversary ride report...and it was a good one! Still got the birthday ride to get to, as well. That's going to be a long one...



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Old 03-18-2013, 08:22 PM   #210
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I'm still hanging on and enjoying every bit of the way! I've been to many of the places you are reporting on and loving the memories. Keep up the good work.
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