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Old 12-18-2009, 10:08 PM   #16
trailrider383
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Just start with one of the switches and bypass it, if that doesn't fix it go to the next switch and do the same. Then you will find the problem. Your first post says you checked those switches. I guess not well enough aye?
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Old 12-18-2009, 10:53 PM   #17
Ricky Rocket OP
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Well, checked the switches again....all OK. I pulled the headlight shroud and checked the 3-way diode with a diode checker...OK too. I'm going to try and trace the green/white wire from the diode to the CDI two-prong plug. I may have an open circuit there. When the ground is enabled via the side stand switch I get spark. It's only when ground is supposed to go through the neutral switch. However, when in neutral my indicator light goes on meaning I have a good ground. Since the diode is good, I believe I may have a loose or open ground line from the diode back.
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Old 12-18-2009, 11:18 PM   #18
r00t4rd3d
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Wish I could have seen this before you ordered your CDI box.

Sounds like a ground issue. Ive seen a couple people have this problem , most of the time its after the bike is warmed up then it starts back firing and spitting. Was a bad ground to their coil.
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:43 AM   #19
showtime45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Rocket
Showtime, did you actually try it? I want to know that if I can troubleshoot, I'll look to get to the point it sparks continuously. Was yours in neutral with the clutch out and sidestand down? I tried it mine in neutral, clutch lever left alone, and sidestand down. Sparks when hitting the start button...no spark when turning over, and sometimes spark when releasing start button.
Yes I did. I was going to change plugs anyway. You gave me ambition...
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:51 AM   #20
Ricky Rocket OP
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This is driving me nuts. It's 9 degrees F here in Connecticut. My garage is freezing and my tools feel like they came from Antarctica. The wires on my XR are so stiff from the cold I'm afraid I'm going to break them by moving them around in this weather. But, I'm determined to fix this by the end of the weeked; I guess I now have a "spare" CDI box to carry with me. I'm still a little ripped I couldn't trace the ground out first.
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Old 12-27-2009, 03:30 PM   #21
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Where I am now........bike starts fine when key on, kill switch on, clutch lever out and in neutral IF THE SIDE STAND IS UP! If I try and start it with the side stand down...no go. It doesn't matter if I hold the clutch in or not (by the way, I do have continuity across clutch switch when engaged). Anybody ever have the 3-way diode (up behind headlight shrould) go bad? When I remove the diode and jump the green/white to the green/red from the neutral switch it starts fine w/out having to lower the side stand. For whatever reason, when the side stand is down the bike won't start. The neutral light goes on in neutral, so the neutral switch must be working?
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Old 12-27-2009, 04:40 PM   #22
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Rocket
Where I am now........bike starts fine when key on, kill switch on, clutch lever out and in neutral IF THE SIDE STAND IS UP! If I try and start it with the side stand down...no go. It doesn't matter if I hold the clutch in or not (by the way, I do have continuity across clutch switch when engaged). Anybody ever have the 3-way diode (up behind headlight shrould) go bad? When I remove the diode and jump the green/white to the green/red from the neutral switch it starts fine w/out having to lower the side stand. For whatever reason, when the side stand is down the bike won't start. The neutral light goes on in neutral, so the neutral switch must be working?
Summer before last my bike got hard to start. Backfired a lot when starting, often started when I released the starter button. I found that all of those problems went away when i retracted the side stand before starting. Oddly it would still run most times if I deployed the side stand after starting it. I never tried to figure it out. I would just retract the side stand and start it and go ride.

Later after cleaning most of the built up chain lube, from around the counter shaft, side stand, and nearby frame, with degreaser the problem went away. Now it starts easily with the stand down. This is why I suggested earlier that you clean the side stand switch. Or just start it with the stand up, or bypass the switch.

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Old 12-27-2009, 05:49 PM   #23
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Thanks, I pulled the switch and tried to clean it; it looks like it's sealed. It didn't do much good, I'm not sure how to pull it apart....does it come apart? There was a switch off a later XR on eBayfor $16; I bought that and figure I'll try it out. Any ideas on how to pull the switch apart? If I keep this up, I'll have built myself a whole new freakin' bike!
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:46 PM   #24
XRider
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Here's what you want to do to make the problem go away. I just did this on a customers bike:

First, put the side stand switch back on or the kick stand gets all wiggly. Cut the three wires at off the switch. Remove the seat so you can get to the 3 pin connector where the side stand wires connect to the main harness. Cut the green and the green/white wires from the side stand harness about an inch from the connector. Remove the 3rd wire. Strip, twist, and solder the green and green/white wires together and insolate the solder joint. The old connector from your side stand switch is now your new bypass jumper. The bike will start with the side stand up or down now.
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:58 PM   #25
mcma111
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Side Stand

Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider

First, put the side stand switch back on or the kick stand gets all wiggly.
I beg to differ. The switch mounts to the end of the kickstand through bolt and does nothing in the way of the kickstand being WIGGLY. If the stand is wiggly, it's just wiggly and the switch is there for the ride.

BTW... If you do have a loose fitting side stand just remove it from the bike and use a vise to squeeze the end that mounts to the frame together. Remount and the looseness should be gone.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:26 PM   #26
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111
I beg to differ. The switch mounts to the end of the kickstand through bolt and does nothing in the way of the kickstand being WIGGLY. If the stand is wiggly, it's just wiggly and the switch is there for the ride.

BTW... If you do have a loose fitting side stand just remove it from the bike and use a vise to squeeze the end that mounts to the frame together. Remount and the looseness should be gone.
Fair enough, I was moving pretty quickly to by-pass all the ignition and starter interlocks on the XRL and didn't look too hard at how the switch was mounted. It just looked as though it was held on with the same bolt as the side stand. My mistake, but I stand by the wiring solution and I assure you that it works.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:31 AM   #27
Ricky Rocket OP
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Fixed!

Well, figured I update the thread on this nightmare. After all the troubleshooting I ordered a new pulse generator. I unplugged the old one and plugged the new one to the harness. I pulled the sparkplug and left it hanging off the lead. Previously when the bike wouldn't spark I'd test the plug against the frame and no spark. This time when it wouldn't start I did the same....no spark. With the new pulse generator plugged to the harness I waved a screwdriver across the "nib" that sticks out from the pulse generator (the trigger point) and a bright blue spark jumped the plug gap. So, I pulled the side cover and the old pulse generator had some metal filings stuck to it, removed it and installed the new one. Put the cover back on and presto!
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:22 AM   #28
techforlife
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Fairly common,,and plugging in the PG and waving a chisel or something in front of it is great as you don`t need to pull the clutch cover unnecessarily if it`s not the PG..

I have a thread on ThumperTalk on repairing the CDI as the solder joints are a common failure...it`s at the top of the XR600-650 FORUM if anyone is interested..

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/881...lp-cdi-repair/

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