ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-19-2013, 11:32 AM   #76
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,539
Quote:
Originally Posted by khale View Post
Ran low? haha. It's a TON of anti-seize. Either you have a lot of bikes, are a mechanic or are a nut about keeping your exhaust nut threads coated with the stuff.
I do a fair amount of work and I'm low on the graphite stuff now. I redo the exhaust nuts every oil change.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 12:14 PM   #77
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 7,909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
I do a fair amount of work and I'm low on the graphite stuff now. I redo the exhaust nuts every oil change.
I think you might be over doing it just a little Plaka. But then I probably do mine ever two years. Or if I have the pipe off and they look like they could use some I will add.

Added, since you are doing customer bikes doing the exhaust nuts more than regular is probably a good thing.
__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 12:26 PM   #78
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 7,909
khale,

Since I have a /6 and you have a /5 there are a number of differences. The rocker arms is one of these. I'm pretty sure that the info on Largiader's site is current. I don't remember tho if he addresses the issue /5's have with clamping the blocks together. What you said is the right attitude. They should be as close together as possible with out binding and with a /5 it takes a little bit more than finger pressure. I think other riders use a large C clamp with a socket over each end of the rocker shafts so the pressure is applied to the end blocks.

There was a factory service tool made for this but I don't think anybody uses it because the large C clamp does a better job anyway.
__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 12:34 PM   #79
khale OP
ride dirty
 
khale's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
khale,

Since I have a /6 and you have a /5 there are a number of differences. The rocker arms is one of these. I'm pretty sure that the info on Largiader's site is current. I don't remember tho if he addresses the issue /5's have with clamping the blocks together. What you said is the right attitude. They should be as close together as possible with out binding and with a /5 it takes a little bit more than finger pressure. I think other riders use a large C clamp with a socket over each end of the rocker shafts so the pressure is applied to the end blocks.

There was a factory service tool made for this but I don't think anybody uses it because the large C clamp does a better job anyway.
Great info, thanks Disston. I am indeed using a C-clamp and sockets to hold the rocker assembly in place.
__________________
2013 BMW R1200 GSW | 1972 BMW R75/5 toaster | 2011 Husky TE310
"4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul"
khale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 01:03 PM   #80
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,539
Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I think you might be over doing it just a little Plaka. But then I probably do mine ever two years. Or if I have the pipe off and they look like they could use some I will add.

Added, since you are doing customer bikes doing the exhaust nuts more than regular is probably a good thing.
Probably. But I use strait oil filters so I'm pivoting the R. pipe anyway. Quick enough to spin off the nuts and run a brass brush around the threads in the head, goop up and replace. I also decarbonize all the exhaust joints, just means I never have to fight it getting them apart.

The only work I do on other peoples bikes is custom bracketry and electrical work.

I just have the one bike, but I also work on my truck and a half dozen small engines I have around. You go through the stuff.

I just cooked up two pots of special lube, one is a blend of aluminum based anti-sieze, Honda moly 60 and powdered graphite, for the rear hub splines. The other is Honda moly 60 and powdered graphite (very stiff) for trans splines. I might also make a reasonably stiff Moly EP grease and graphite blend for the throttle cam.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 06:48 AM   #81
khale OP
ride dirty
 
khale's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 554
Got her buttoned back up and she started great! Just in time for the first day of Spring. Man, these new Keihan SS headers are mighty nice. I'll probably be posting again soon, seeking advice for a compression and leak down test (yes, I know this should have been done at the very beginning).


__________________
2013 BMW R1200 GSW | 1972 BMW R75/5 toaster | 2011 Husky TE310
"4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul"
khale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 10:11 AM   #82
Kt-88
I like everything.
 
Kt-88's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: SLC area, Utah
Oddometer: 559
Looking awesome!
Kt-88 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 12:23 PM   #83
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,539
Quote:
Originally Posted by khale View Post
Got her buttoned back up and she started great! Just in time for the first day of Spring. Man, these new Keihan SS headers are mighty nice. I'll probably be posting again soon, seeking advice for a compression and leak down test (yes, I know this should have been done at the very beginning).

Sweet! I just polished out my stainless headers. heard if you get any oil on them, including fingerprints, they get brown and nasty. Dunno how true it is but it's enough work to restore them I'm gonna be careful.

Hint: see where the front brake cable touches the front fender? it wears through the paint right there. A strip of the clear stick on stuff used on tanks under tank bags is good preventative medicine. Redo it every so often. I had my /5 for about 20 years, 19.5 years longer than that particular girlfriend. Just selling off the last of the parts.

Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #84
khale OP
ride dirty
 
khale's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Sweet! I just polished out my stainless headers. heard if you get any oil on them, including fingerprints, they get brown and nasty. Dunno how true it is but it's enough work to restore them I'm gonna be careful.

Hint: see where the front brake cable touches the front fender? it wears through the paint right there. A strip of the clear stick on stuff used on tanks under tank bags is good preventative medicine. Redo it every so often. I had my /5 for about 20 years, 19.5 years longer than that particular girlfriend. Just selling off the last of the parts.
Thanks Plaka, appreciate all the advice. I rubbed down the SS headers with isopropyl rubbing alcohol to get rid of any oily fingerprints before I started the bike last night. The SS headers should turn slightly gold, correct? Anything else I should know about proper care of SS headers?
__________________
2013 BMW R1200 GSW | 1972 BMW R75/5 toaster | 2011 Husky TE310
"4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul"
khale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 02:52 PM   #85
Beemerboff
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2005
Oddometer: 2,209
Luster Lace was recently reintroduced to the Oz market and it worked really well on the Staintune system on my G/S.

The long wide strips worked the best, and the exhaust has taken a nice Titanium like light bronze sheen which has lasted well and has brought a few favorable comments. Much better than anything else I have tried, including Autosol , Muguiars and Mothers.

But Meguiars Black trim detailer has been reformulated and it is now the best I have found.

Staintune have also started selling their OEM polish on Oz Ebay but I haven't tried it yet.
Maybe when the Luster lace runs out-----.
__________________
Adelaide Hills, Australia. 93 R100 GS, 77 R75/7 ,70 BSA B44VS, , 86 R80 G/S PD, 95 BMW Funduro F650 ST
Beemerboff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 03:26 PM   #86
chasbmw
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Bath Uk
Oddometer: 1,660
Just use alloy wheel cleaner, the acid removes the brown sheen, then polish with your polish of choice
__________________
Charles
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps6e61ae2e.jpg
R90s 1070 replica, R90/6
1971 Commando Fastback
chasbmw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 03:45 PM   #87
khale OP
ride dirty
 
khale's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by chasbmw View Post
Just use alloy wheel cleaner, the acid removes the brown sheen, then polish with your polish of choice
the headers turned almost immediately light brown after starting the bike. That's normal, right? Maybe light brown is too strong, a very, very light golden.
__________________
2013 BMW R1200 GSW | 1972 BMW R75/5 toaster | 2011 Husky TE310
"4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul"
khale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 03:56 PM   #88
supershaft
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 7,959
Quote:
Originally Posted by khale View Post
the headers turned almost immediately light brown after starting the bike. That's normal, right? Maybe light brown is too strong, a very, very light golden.
Normal. My Staintune mufflers were about brown before a polished a bunch of scratches out after my last crash but then again my BMW headers are blue and purple and yellow clear to the plenum.

The best thing to reduce headers from changing color is getting out of the choke ASAP.

supershaft screwed with this post 03-20-2013 at 04:06 PM
supershaft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #89
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 7,909
Quote:
Originally Posted by khale View Post
the headers turned almost immediately light brown after starting the bike. That's normal, right? Maybe light brown is too strong, a very, very light golden.
Yes, that is how your stainless steel headers will look. They will get a little spotted or something so riders clean them to get them back to even again.

Chrome headers turn blue.

I have a cheap set of something else. Brand new they immediately turned to rust.
__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 04:20 PM   #90
supershaft
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 7,959
Those Luftmeiser two into ones were good pipes IMO. A customer of ours back in the day bought a R90S from us brand new and for some reason that thing was a runner right out of the box. It was by far the best running 90S we ever sold not that we sold THAT many of them but . . . . It ran better yet with a Luftmeiser two into one on it.
supershaft is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014