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Old 03-12-2013, 05:58 PM   #136
WeazyBuddha
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what is this curious "OP" designation that has showed up next to my ADV handle? anyone?
Heard from a mod it was a tweak to the system, Original Posters are now identified throughout the thread the OP starts. This particular mod alluded to more changes coming.

Still enjoying the thread.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:21 PM   #137
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[I][B]anyway, my friend here in santa cruz, has a connection with a bmw / dakar mechanic, and i'm going to meet him tomorrow to see if he can help me resolve one or both of these pressing issues. the new stepper motor is in bogota, columbia, making it's way closer to santa cruz. and hopefully, i can find an aftermarket clutch kit if that is really what is going on with the clutch.
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Good luck with solving your bike issue. Never a good feeling to have this sort of hassle, but do the best you can with the additional time you will spend in Santa Cruz. Something tells me it will lead you to something meaningful
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:53 PM   #138
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Happy Birthday. Confession is good for the soul.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:16 PM   #139
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Tiger heading south

Hi Fritz and Happy Birthday!

I had written to you a few months back, as I too am heading on my own adventure on a 2012 Tiger 800XC, south from Central America to Brazil starting in April. Thanks for the reality check and sharing your troubles and tribulations. I too love the Tiger - really an awesome bike - and in the end, they are machines that need care, and sometimes they have good days and bad ones. I'm working through the run-in period right now and should have a few thousand kms by the time I get moving.

Hopefully things will get resolved soon and you can be on your way. Santa Cruz is a great city to be stuck in though - enjoy the wild life, particularly the two legged kind . Best of luck and remember, shinny side up.

Cheers,

David
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:43 AM   #140
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hey everyone. thanks for your birthday wishes!

i finally googled "triumph tiger idle stepper motor" and it found a lot of threads, many on ADV, about this somewhat common issue - especially if you are doing a lot of dirt roads. sound like i just need to clean and lube the stepper motor swing arm - and keep it clean and lubed. i'll give it a shot tomorrow. right now, it's raining like crazy in santa cruz and i'm not going anywhere. maybe the rain will clean it for me? :)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773444

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794834
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:10 AM   #141
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adjust your clutch play at the lever, the triple uses up a fair amount of clutch being so torquey and make sure you're using the proper oil, use diesel not car oil.

love the report!
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:11 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by porkandcorn View Post
hey everyone. thanks for your birthday wishes!

i finally googled "triumph tiger idle stepper motor" and it found a lot of threads, many on ADV, about this somewhat common issue - especially if you are doing a lot of dirt roads. sound like i just need to clean and lube the stepper motor swing arm - and keep it clean and lubed. i'll give it a shot tomorrow. right now, it's raining like crazy in santa cruz and i'm not going anywhere. maybe the rain will clean it for me? :)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773444

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794834
Exactly, I have this same bike. Two issues to consider when riding on dirt: 1) make sure you have an air pre-filter, as this bike has a tendency to accumalate debris on the air filter - it is a way to avoid cleaning it too regularly, in its difficult access; 2) clean and lube stepper motor swing arm. Chances are you don't need to install a new stepper motor. WD40 would do, but on those threads you've linked they offer better suggestions.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:39 PM   #143
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santa cruz, bolivia

friday, march 15, 2013


santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

a bit of a gap since my last post. this was on purpose to help you realize how addicted you are to this continuing adventure.

yesterday was a good day for my tiger. turns out that there is a full-blown, brand new triumph dealer and service location right here in santa cruz, bolivia - 5 minutes from my hotel! today, i was their second foreign customer ever. (first would have been better, but a brazilian beat me to it.)


window, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i can't tell you how happy i was when michi (the service tech) and eduardo (the owner) pulled up to the hotel yesterday to gather me and the bike. i followed them to a veritable motorcycle wet-dream - campo motors triumph of bolivia. it is bolivia's first official triumph dealer. interesting that when i called triumph USA approximately one week ago from san pedro de atacama, chile and in distress asked - "where is the closest triumph authorized service technician?" - they told me, "only in são paulo, brazil." i guess the wheels of change are slow moving in big companies.


michi and eduardo, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

first the tiger got a bath. i was happy to help out.


washing the beast, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

next, michi got to work diagnosing the problems that i wrote about in the last post. we hooked the bike up to the triumph diagnosis software. turns out that the issue was that the throttles were imbalanced. a check of the idle stepper motor proved that it was functioning fine. remember when i said i got a bad tank of gas in mendoza? i didn't write about it, as it was only a blip on the radar, but it turns out that most likely, the computer adjusted the throttles to account for the bad gas, and then they never really came back into sync again. this is the current assessment.


michi, technician with computer, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


computer analysis, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


me and michi, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

michi is from a motorcycle technician family here in santa cruz. he grew up working on bikes. his brother is the tech at the ducati dealer right down the street. he attended certification for triumph in argentina, and has been helping prepare the new dealership with eduardo.

we also changed the air filter (it was filthy), the oil and filter (because i didn't have a filter last time it was changed in mendoza), swapped out the most recent broken turn signal with another (it will break again in a week), adjusted the clutch lever (my clutch is fine, it just needed some slack in the line), and cut the end off a 3 liter coca cola bottle that fit perfectly over my tent tube (shade-tree mechanics at its finest.)

i was treated to lunch by eduardo mid day, because we were working on the bike from 9am to almost 8pm - frankly, i was treated like royalty the entire day by everyone who works at campo motors. eduardo's entrepreneurialism is inspiring and admirable. he saw an opportunity in the lack of a triumph dealer in the region, and he took action and made it happen. i think his investment is going to pay off handsomely.


en la frente, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


service entrance, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


eduardo, owner, campo motors triumph dealer, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

last night, i was invited to meet up with moto club santa cruz, a group of about 50 guys who have been meeting and motorcycling together for 15 years. their space was pretty awesome. together, they purchased land, constructed a club house, built a pool. it is the ultimate man cave. makes me wonder why i don't have this same thing in oregon. maybe when i get back, i'll get started on that.


not the last supper, moto club santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


dudes and their toys, moto club santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


pool of the dudes, moto club santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

they meet there a couple of times a week. once on wednesday or thursday, after riding enduros in the sand surrounding santa cruz on saturday, and then again on sunday with the families.


chow time, moto club santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


dudes and their tree house, moto club santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i handed out my postcards to the group, was treated to a tasty dinner, and had a great time talking to everyone about my adventure and my travels. they are a super nice bunch of dudes.


dudes and the gringo, moto club santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


dudes and their games, moto club santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i'd like to take a moment to thank my hostess here in santa cruz - i met sylvia in portland over a year ago at a salsa club in portland. she was visiting relatives in the area, and happened to be out dancing the same night i was. at the time, i told her about the south america trip i was planning, and she said that she was from santa cruz.

arriving here on tuesday, she had already arranged for my stay at los tojibos hotel, santa cruz's first 5-star hotel. she treated me to an amazing birthday dinner at an ajacent asian-fusion restaurant that night. later, she connected me with her toyota mechanic (thank you luis!) who told me about the triupmh dealer. she also told the santa cruz moto club about my arrival which lead to my being invited to hang out with them.

slyvia, in general, has made me feel at home, away from home. like family. this is a valuable commodity when traveling for this duration of time.

in addition to her elegant urban essence, she is also a cane farmer, cattle rancher, mother of two great kids, and a triathele in training. today, after her morning swim training, she toured me around her suger cane farm which lies about 30 minute north of santa cruz in montero, bolivia. she met there with her talented team to asses the crop and plan for the harvest that is coming up soon. it was interesting to see her at work, and kick around in the mud for a while. sylvia - thank you for everything!


please, no more food by porkandcorn, on Flickr


sylvia, cane farmer extraordinaire, arcoiris farm, montero, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


discussing cane yield, arcoiris farm, montero, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


plan of action, arcoiris farm, montero, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


arcoiris farm, montero, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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Old 03-15-2013, 04:42 PM   #144
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Talking

Looks as though you've done a full 180 emotion-wise from where you were several days ago. Good to see you're back on track.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:13 AM   #145
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warning: long-winded motorcycle maintenance-specific diatribe follows.


it's all dutch to me (as they say - no offense to the dutch.)

non taken


great ride report, been following from the start, but it is getting better and better and the pictures are truly amazing.
have fun with the rest of the trip
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:00 AM   #146
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santa cruz, bolivia - about to leave

i think this is my first post in the morning, before leaving a place. it's been an interesting few days here in santa cruz.

1. i am famous here. i met a random person and they said they saw me on the news. there was apparently a story about me, telling about my journey and using photos from my blog. i'm doing everything i can to get the video to post here.

2. i fell in love... with a kitten that lives at the hotel and looks almost exactly like my cat in portland named "mike rice." she visits my door, and because she's in heat, my door area smells like piss.


hotel kitten, los tojibos hotel, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

3. i got a flat tire from a tree thorn, so the fantastic people at campo motors triumph of bolivia came to the rescue again. we also rechecked the bikes computer a couple of days after the work, and all systems check out ok. i'll post more later about the complexities of maintaining a motorcycle in condition of extreme elevation changes and bad gasoline.


gomeria, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

4. i met a heavy metal band from santa cruz that knows how to play iron maiden, deep purple, and ozzy osbourne. they rocked very hard on st. paddy's day.


heavy metal boliviano, bar irlandese, santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

5. i got sick again and had another fever of about 102 degrees, but broke the fever and am feeling almost normal again. watch out for microbes - they will get you every time.

6. i finally got my package from portland with the stepper motor that i *thought* i would need, but ended up not needing. but the part and the shipment with taxes cost about 400.00 USD, so i had to wait for the package on principle alone. plus, there was a set of rear brake pads in there, and i'm heavy on the rear brake.


fedex santa cruz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

so now i'm off to cochibamba, bolivia, and then tomorrow to la paz, where i will barely be able to breathe or sleep. then to lake titicaca, and into peru (country #6) on wednesday or thursday.

more later. hasta luego amigos.


santa cruz to cochabambo by porkandcorn, on Flickr
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:28 PM   #147
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santa cruz, bolivia to cochabamba, bolivia

as soon as i left my little oasis in santa cruz, the tone changed. i've been waiting for the day when i'd finally meet some policia looking for an easy gringo target, and that day was today. the very first checkpoint north of santa cruz, a cop motioned for me to pull over to the side. in my normal fashion, i gave the thumbs-up and continued through the checkpoint, ignoring him. in fact - this is the recommended protocol, as they normally don't have vehicles, or the patience to chase you down. but he blew his whistle, and two more policia after the checkpoint stepped out in front of the bike and blocked my path. they had machine guns, so i figured maybe it was time to stop...

i pulled over, and i was instructed to go into the office for a shake-down. i played dumb, and made sure my spanish was extra-terrible. on the way in, i banged my helmet on the door frame, because it was made for smurfs. i then almost knocked a wall mount tv off it's stand. it was a pretty impressive entrance. after a stern lecture about the tv, i was instructed to cough up my documents. i made copies of my passport and my bolivian entry documents, in case they were held for ransome. they all checked out and then he said i owed a 50.00 boliviano (8.00 USD) 'road tax'. well, this is really a beer fund for him and the boys, because the receipt was a standard issue receipt that you could probably buy in a supermarket. he looked like he needed a beer, and so did the other 5 guys staring at me. so i paid with a smile, knowing that if i put up any resistance, i would be guaranteeing a long, boring wait in that office. i left, and as i went out, i pretended to almost hit the door again. they laughed. they weren't bad guys, i was just an obvious payday in what is otherwise very likely a low-paying job. it's part of the adventure.


line for gas, yapacani, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i went through another 2 checkpoints. at one, i was not requested to stop. at the second, i was, but i continued through and there was no chase or machine-gun backup at that one. about 50 km later, i came to another checkpoint. there was no officer there, but at this checkpoint was the infamous pull-wire across the road. the pull-wire is a crowd-favorite, controlled by a dirty man that usually looks drunk or asleep or both. he pulled it tight, and it raised up blocking my path. again, i was asked to an office where - again - i was asked for documents. after the last checkpoint, i took the 'receipt' that they stapled to my immigration document and put it in another pocket. i had a feeling that this was a signal to other policia down the line that i was ripe for the picking. i asked straight-away what the fee was. they said 100.00 boliviano. i pulled out the receipt, explaining in my best spanish this time that i already paid, and that i was getting tired of paying. (a different technique.) i only ended up paying 20.00, because i said that's all i had with me in cash. they didn't take visa. i presume neither american express, diner's club, or paypal.

a few towns after that checkpoint, there was some kind of strange commotion as i rode in. there was smoke coming from a ditch, with a lot of on-lookers. as i passed, i realized that it was a van in the ditch, on fire, with people in it and scrambling out of it. not a good scene. i continued past, not about to stop and get involved. coming toward me was a truck full of guys with machine guns looking like they meant business. after that, a military truck with more guys and machine guns. some people ran into the jungle that were next to the burning van.

i don't know what was going down in that town, but i didn't stick around to find out. i heard route 4 from santa cruz to cochabamba referred to as the 'ruta de coca', as in - cocaine - coca. cultivation of coca is legal in bolivia, as far as i know. but i have a feeling that there are still quite a few trades surrounding that industry that are under the table. so it was a bit of a weird morning. as i drove during the day, i saw little old ladies in traditional dresses and hats drying coca leaves on big blue tarps, pushing them around in the sun to dry them evenly. i wanted to stop for a picture for the blog, but it never felt right. i behaved and was a good gringo.

interestingly, the very apparent and sudden prosperity of santa cruz is - in part - fueled by cash from the drug trade. i found this out by asking people, and got the same answer every time. i didn't want to misrepresent the city with false information. it is not a point of pride for cruzenos (people from santa cruz), but it is commonly accepted as a fact. all that drug money then trickles down to normal people - good people - entrepreneurs, business owners, and families in the area. don't be so quick to pass judgment on those cruzenos - some of those dollars are probably from your community. the cruzenos are just trying to make a living like anyone else in the world.

after i passed through the lowlands of farms and tropical savanna, i started to climb into the highland. there was mist in the trees, and it collected on my visor as i zipped along into the green hills. i climbed higher, and the fog became more thick. the road worsened, with deep grooves in the pavement from all the heavy truck traffic. i was like the road was melting under all those big trucks - creeping up the mountain and belching out thick heavy smoke.


route 4, villa tunari, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

at 3,500 meters (about 12,000 feet), the air was very, very cold and wet. i turned on the grip warmers and my fog lights, and continued on, not feeling like stopping to take so many photos. usually, there was no space to pull over that was safe. i finally crested the pass, and in the distance could see a few rays of sun peaking through. i descended a bit and as i did, the chill in the air receded some, but not much. another day of extreme environmental changes confused the bike's computer a little bit, but she did much better today. i went from 300 - 3,500 meters, and from 90 farenheit to about 35.


route 4, sunset, sacaba, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


foggy mountain sunset, sacaba, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

as i learned from michi, the tech in santa cruz, i will now reboot the computer every morning after i have extreme changes like this. i simply disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, turn the key on to cycle the computer, turn it off for a minute to let the stepper motor find it's tolerances, then turn it on and let it idle for 15 minutes. this is something that i was not aware i needed to do before this trip. there are pros and cons to a fuel injected motor. the pros outweigh the cons in comparison to a carbureted motor, which would probably run terribly or not run at all at the top of these passes and in these extreme changing conditions.


foggy mountain sunset 2, sacaba, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

tomorrow to la paz, bolivia, the highest (defacto) capital in the world, where i will likely test the pros and cons of the human body at elevation. i hope my hotel has oxygen, because with how i feel now, i think i am going to need it - i'm having a hard time catching my breath currently, and that means a lousy night's sleep.


cochabamba to la paz by porkandcorn, on Flickr

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Old 03-19-2013, 03:14 AM   #148
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Originally Posted by porkandcorn View Post

as i learned from michi, the tech in santa cruz, i will now reboot the computer every morning after i have extreme changes like this. i simply disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, turn the key on to cycle the computer, turn it off for a minute to let the stepper motor find it's tolerances, then turn it on and let it idle for 15 minutes. this is something that i was not aware i needed to do before this trip. there are pros and cons to a fuel injected motor. the pros outweigh the cons in comparison to a carbureted motor, which would probably run terribly or not run at all at the top of these passes and in these extreme changing conditions.
Great stuff!

I'm glad to know Triumph is establishing shops in South America, just in case I take my bike there some day.

Electronic fuel injection should be an advantage on changes of altitude because the system is changing its parameters to accommodate for changes in atmospheric pressure (altitude, in your case), air temperature, gasoline, things that influence air density and the mixture of air and fuel. Carburated bikes, you needed to change the needles when changing altitude.

The 15 minutes idle is to reset the throttle position sensor.

I'm curious to know how things will progress on your bike. When in Brazil, you were fueling it with 15% ethanol in the gasoline. But I know it varies to up to 20% in some gas stations. I don't know what kind of fuel they have in Bolivia, but certainly your friend Sylvia would know if they add ethanol to gasoline over there as well.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:08 AM   #149
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ok, cool. yes, i'm learning about these things as i go. the gas in bolivia is pretty bad. i have been warned about that by a lot of people, including the guys at campo motors triumph. there is a lot of black carbon around the end of my tailpipe, and i know it's not supposed to be like that. i wonder if buying the additives would help, or just complicate things further. anyway, she's running great at RPMs above 1500, and i'm going to try the full computer reset this morning to see what results that produces.
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:50 PM   #150
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cochabamba, bolivia to la paz, bolivia

i set out of cochabamba, bolivia on a motorcycle that was idling correctly. i performed the reset that i was taught, and it responded very well. i was very excited to arrive in la paz, as i've always had an interest in visiting the exotic city. to cross through the mountains on bolvian route 4 took about 3 hours. the scenery was not spectacular, but the elevation gain was significant. the roads were in good condition, and fun to ride.


route 4, parotani, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


route 4, caramarca, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


route 4, west of caramarca, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

it was a fairly uneventful day compared to the previous one, but i did encounter a couple of bloqueos (road blockades/protests). these blockades began back in 2006, when evo morales was elected president. before his election, he was the main organizer of the cocaleiros (the coca growers) and these blockades were used by workers unions to insist upon various demands and rights. it seems to have spread to other sectors of the economy, possibly with the encouragement of the now president morales.


bike on route 4, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i found the first bloqueo just as i was descending from the mountains north of ururo, bolivia. this was a miner's strike. i pulled up, and there were rocks and other barriers placed all over the road. there was a significant line of cars and buses, maybe about an hours worth. i pulled to the front of the commotion (as i usually do), and turned off the bike. bus passengers were standing about, eating, talking, and waiting impatiently.


miner's blockade, route 4, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

a christian missionary, rather obviously american, came up to my stopped bike. he explained in a thick north carolinan accent that it was a miners strike, and recommended i not try to cross through - even though other bolivians said motos were ok to pass. the missionary said that the strikes can turn violent quickly, and that the miners can at times carry pieces of dynamite that they will use to strengthen their 'voice.' there's a u.s. state department advisor currently issues about this area right now.


mineros bloqueo, near oruro, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

luckily, after only about a 5 minute wait, there was a negotiation between the miners and the people waiting that allowed for the vehicles to pass. on the south side of the same town, there were about 50 bolivian riot police kicking rocks off the road and directing traffic through the chaos. the blockade made a big mess, but it was peaceful.


riot police at bloqueo, near oruro, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the road from ururo to la paz was a slow, straight climb through the high plains, eventually revealing the high, snow-capped peaks that surround la paz. the roads were terrible for motorcycling, often with very deep grooves in the pavement from the heavy truck traffic. and there was a lot of construction on that stretch as well, as they are building a 4 lane highway on route 1 that leads south out of el alto. arriving into la paz about about 3pm, i found the second bloqueo in la paz's companion city of el alto, bolivia. i was descending down a long hill, and could see the impending chaos laid out in front of me.


trenches in road, south of la paz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr

traffic lost all order, not that there was much to begin with. cars were going in every direction imaginable, trying to find a way around the blockade. but eventually, the traffic came to a halt and people were wandering around their vehicles. i proceeded slowly through the maze of semis, buses, cars, and people now selling items to them as they waited. i couldn't see any activity that caused concern, so i continued snaking through. i had to creep down through a couple of ditches, and around the requisite rocks and barriers, this time including some tires that were almost done burning.

this looked like some kind of education strike, from reading what i could understand from the banners. even some of the protesters were waving me through, so i picked up my speed and continued to search for a path. i eventually reached the slow-flowing streets of el alto on the other side of the bloqueo, this time confronted by the bloqueo of some crazy traffic that continued all the way into central la paz. i used my new-found obstacle-avoiding skills to pick through the weird side streets of markets, vendors, and people. i felt like it was what james bond would do, but i was going a lot slower and there was no sexy lady on the bike with me.

i eventually made it to the edge of el alto, where a twisty road drops down into la paz itself. it's a shocking and exciting site - the city of la paz. it's an enormous high-altitude bowl, flanked on all sides by andean peaks, and filled to overflowing with a uniform mass of red brick structures. i stood atop the overlook before i went down to the hotel, just absorbing it for a moment. i was too overwhelmed for several minutes to even take pictures. i just stood there looking at this exotic place that i'd always wanted to visit.


vista, avenida naciones unidas, la paz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


bike and vista 2, avenida naciones unidas, la paz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


self portrait, avenida naciones unidas, la paz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


centro de la paz, bolvia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


building, la paz, bolivia by porkandcorn, on Flickr


la paz, bolivia at night by porkandcorn, on Flickr

porkandcorn screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 09:06 AM
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